I ■ 



dgUwlWiiiLll 



SChh 



COMPLETE 

G U I J) E T THE LA K E S, 

ooKPmii 

0UmkU Directions for tfjr <Tourt$t, 

WITH 

Mil. WORDSWORTH'S 
ih.x ftlPTIOS OF Tin: BCENBR1 OF THE I OU» PRY, &c. 

Til K I.K U. I II. 

OS i 

GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRM l 
BY ill: PROF] 5 SEDGWICK. 

rrrouii KDihon. 






KENDA L : 

v\ BLI8B I.i) B V .1 II i D80 N 

ilon&on : 

i.o n Q M I s LHD I •»•• v n i> (TH1 1 l v k I SB LND I O. 

UTEBPO i LI IT. M \N' II M Ml UTS 

1843. 









mOMWMW 

AUGl 

Cunt 
illlEickrif 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



oay be proper to state what will be found in dm \<>lum< . 
For much of it> content- (especially for the M lin 
tbe whole of the " Des Scenery 

1 ! lCs" and a considerable portion of the • • /) 
i I rmation for the TourisK") Mr. WOBMWOBTB if 
fcnswerable ; and he has much <atisiaction in baring been tbe 
paeans of inducing 1 s a i to 

tribute " Three Letter* on the G f Iht I 

valuable for the impoi I the matin 

they contain, and for the rigorotos and eloquent style in which 

The " B \ ' bare I • 

kindly furnished bj Mr. GoUGH, the more amj»K' lists of 
plants in tbe wrhood of Kendal being entirely tbe 

fruits of that gentleman's persona] researches* For die 
remaining content book, original and the 

I <»r- hold themselves responsible; the fttn and 






Admeasurement* of Distance having been compiled prin- 
cipally from Green's excell* • to the Like*, ir 
bulky volumes, of which it has been said, " that they con- 
tain the most minute an< rmation extant of the 
country." 

The Diagrams of the Mountains have been drawn 
pressly for the Work by Mr. 

knowledge of the country (as his beautiful Model of the 
Lake District gives abundantpro of) is a i 
for their accurrac\ . 



/'« 



\l>\ ERTISEMEN1 



l II i OND EDITION 



rapid tale of lb. 
k, thi V . l»li«ber has made considerable addit 
ovement* in the presen t impression / I 

srmmu of M ^ etched by the able pencil of 

nioft, hare been supplied: many Additional 
\ tat have been interspersed through various parta of 
book | / h 

been carefully tested hy personal Offltd bj 

the valuable suggestions of Mr. 1 i in fOI r, whose 0) 
and accurate knowledge of the I^ak t baa been k.: 

and freely afforded to the Publisher : valuable Notes, \ 
I r, have been ad«l. kopessor Bbdown I 

logy of' and 

a Chapter on the 1> I of Lu \ ft, has b 

famished by Mr. N 



VI. 

It has been the aim of the Publisher to produce a Guide 
which, at a reasonable price, may serve as an accurate 
field companion to the passing Tourist, as well as con- 
tain chapters of sufficient interest to assist in wiling away 
hours when weariness or unfavourable weather prevents the 
Traveller from out-of-door enjoyment. The large portion of 
the Work which claims Mr. Wordsworth and Professor 
Sedgwick for its authors warrants the Publisher in expressing 
his confident hope that he has attained his object : and grate- 
ful for the patronage which enabled him to dispose of a whole 
edition in a portion of a single summer, he again commits 
this volume to the continued support of a liberal Public. 



CONTENTS. 



Ambleside 40 

Angle Tarn (Troutbeck)... 46 
Angle Tarn (Borrowdale) 58, 75 
Ash Course, or Esk Hause 55, 83 

Ara-Force 49, 105, 107 

Arthur's Round Table ... 108 

Bardsea 3 

Barrow Cascade 63 

Bassenthwaite Water ... 87 

Belle Isle 37 

Birker Force ... 16, 56 

Blea Tarn 40 

Black-lead Mine 

Bleaberry, or Burtness Tarn 

Black Sail ... 

Blowick 

Borrowdale... 

Borrowdale Yews 

Bowness 

Bowderdale... 

Bowder Stone 

Bowfell 

Bowscale Tarn 

Broughton ... 

Brother-water 

Brougham Hall 

Castle 

Brownrigg Well 



Burton 
Butterlip How 
Burnmoor Tarn 
Buttermere ... 
Calder Abbey 

Bridge 

Carl Lofts ... 
Carlisle 
Cartmel 
Casterton 
Castlerigg Brow 
Castle Head... 
Castle Crag... 
Catchedecam 
Causey Pike... 



69 
79 
80 
93 
53,61,63 
,. 69 
. 36 
. 58 
. 65 
,. 75 
. 78 
. 16 
48, 92 
,. 108 
. 109 
.. 106 
. 25 
,. 51 
,. 56 
79, 82 
57, 85 
.. 84 
.. Ill 
.. 112 
22, 27 
25, 30 
53 



65 

105 

78 



Coniston 

Cockley Beck 

Cockermouth 

Countess' Pillar 

Corby 

Crummock Water 

Dacre Castle 

Dalton 

Deepdale 

Derwent Water 

Dockray 

Dove Crag ... 

Druid's Circle, Keswick 

Duddon 

Dungeon Gill 

Dunmail Raise 

Easedale 

Eagle Crag 

Edenhall 

Egremont ... 
Elter Water 
Ennerdale Water .. 

Bridge .. 

Esthwaite Lake 

Eskdale 

Fairfield 

Ferry-house (Windermere) 
Fleetwood Route 
Floutern Tarn 
Friar's Crag... 
Furness Abbey 
Giant's Grave 

Caves 

Gillerthwaite 

Glencoin 

Glenridding... 

Goats Tarn ... 

Gowbarrow Park .. 

Grasmere 

Great Gable 

Greenup 

Grisedale 

Grisedale Tarn 



13 
55 

85 

111 

112 

80, 82 

91 

12 

92 

60, 63 

89 

93 

67 

13 

41 

52 

51, 53 

65 

112 

86 

45 

80, 83 

84 

18 

55 

46 

18 

3 

83 

62 

4 

108 

109 

58 } 84 

91 

92 

17 

89, 91 

51, 53 

. 72 

. 53 

. 92 

. 52 



Grisedale Pike 78 

Grasmoor 78 

Hardknot 54 

. Castle 17 

Hartshop 92 

Hawkshead 18 

Hawes Water ... 31, &3 

Hays Water 46, 49 

Haul Gill 57 

Helm Crag 57 

Helvellyn 52 

Ascent of . . 104 

High Street 32 

Holywell 38 

Holker 22 

Honister Crag . . . . 80 

Humphrey Head . . . . 22 

Ingleborough . . . . 2 

Ivy Crag . . . . . . 45 

Kendal Route .. M 

Kendal 

Kentmere . . . . . . 33 

Kepple Cove Tarn . . . . 105 

Keswick .. .. 50, 59 

Kirkby Lonsdale .. ~. 26 

Kirkstone . . . . . . 47 

Pass of . . 48, 102 

Lamplugh . . . . . . 84 

Lancaster . . . . . . 20 

Lancaster Sands . . . . 21 

Langdale (Excursion) 40, 54 

Pikes .. .. 41 

Langstreth . . . . o4, OS 

Levers Water . . . . 18 

Levens Bridge . . . . 88 

Ling Crag 

Long Sleddale 

Long Meg & her Daughters 108 

Low Wood . . . . 35, 47 

Low Water . . . . . . 17 

Loughrigg Fell .. .. 44 

Lodore 63 

Lorton Yew.. . . . . SI 

Lowes Water . . . . 82 

Lowther Castle . . . . 109 

Lyulph's Tower . . 49, 89 

Matterdale .. .. 89, 91 

Mayburgh . . . . . . 108 

Milnthorpe i>6 

Mickledore 74 

Mosedale .. .. 68, S;> 

Nab Scar 46 

Newlands 7$ 

Newby Bridge . . . . 23 

North, Route from the . . 36 
Old Man, Coniston . . 17 



Old Church.. 
Old Penrith 
Over-Sands Route. 
Patterdale 
Peas Gill .. 
Penrith 

Pillar 

Preston 
Red Tarn 
Round Knott 
Rosthwaite . ■ 
Rydal Water 

Waterfalls . 

Saddleback .. 

Scout S<ar . . 

Screes 

BcawfeO 

Ascent of 



Tarn 

I tap . . 
Scale Hill 
Scathwaite i Borrowdale) 

Tarn 



90 

109 

20 

4^ 

107 
83 

KM 

08 

50 

28 

71 
77 

58,80,84 
9Q,81 

m 



Seat h v. :iess) 

Bhap Weill 

S 

Sldddaw 

Boor-milk Gill, Ease: 

, Butt* i 



14 
111 

71 

.. 

.. 



Sprinkling Tarn 
Stanley Gill 
Stake* 

■ Is 

Stv Head .. 

— Tarn 

Stock 

Station-house, "Windermere 

Stickle Tarn 

Stock Gill Force .. 

St .John's Vale , . ..53,67 

Stonethwaite 68 

St. B .... 

Striding Edge 

Sn barrow ( r.i_: . . 

Sunken Church . . 17 

Swirrel Edge 

Thirlmere 

Tilberthwaite . . 13, - 

Troutbeck 

Uliawater 

Ulpha Kirk 

Tlverston 

Walnej Scar 14 

Wartoa Crag 

Wan af ell Tike 



Wastdale Head 

Wast Water 

Watendlath 

Wetherlam 

Whinlatter 

Whitehaven 



..58, 83 

54,84,87 

.. 66 

.. 17 

..81,84 
.. 85 



Windermere 
Wishing Gate 
Workington 
Wrynose 
Yewdale 
Yew Crag 



Heights of the Lakes above the Sea. . 

Waterfalls . . 

Mountains .. 



37 
52 

85 

54 

13,47 

80 



113 
113 
114 



DESCRIPTION of the SCENERY of the LAKES. 



SECTION FIRST. 

VIEW OF THE COUNTRY AS FORMED BY NATURE. 

Vales diverging from l oommoo Centre. — Effect of Light and Shadow 
as dependant upoD the position of tin- Valet. Monntftingj thoir 

Substance, BurfhOM, and Colours.- Winter Colouring.— The Vales, 
Lakes, Islands, Tarns, Woods, Kivers, Climate, Night. p. 117 

SECTION SECOND. 

ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AS AFFECTED BY ITS INHABITANTS. 

Retrospect. — Primitive Aspect. — Koman and British Antiquities. — 
Feudal Tenantry, their Habitations and Inclosures — Tenantry re- 
duced in Number by the Union of the Two Crowns— State of Society 
after that Event. — Cottages, Bridget, Places of Worship, Parks and 
Mansions. — General Picture of Bocfii .. .. 139 

SECTION THIRD. 

CHANGES, AND RULES OF TASTE FOR PREVENTING THEIR BAD EFFECTS. 

Tourists. — New Settlers. — The Country disfigured. — Causes of false 

Taste in Grounds and Buildings. — Ancient Models recommended. 

Houses. — Colouring of Buildings. — Grounds and Plantations. — The 
Larch. — Planting. — Further Changes probable. — Conclusion. 153 



SECTION FOURTH. 

ALFl.sr Si fKES COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. 



171 



Three Letters on the Geology of the Lake District, by the 
Rev. Professor Sedgwick.. . .. ... .. 186 



A Glossary, etc. etc.. . 



251 



STAGES. 



Lancaster to Kendal, by Kirkby Lonsdale 

Lancaster to Kendal, by Burton 

Lancaster to Kendal, by Milnthorpe 

Lancaster to Ulverston, oyer Sands 

Lancaster to Ulverston, by Levens Bridge 

Ulverston to Hawkshead, by Coniston Water Head 

Ulverston to Bowness, by Newby Bridge 

Hawkshead to Ambleside 

Hawkshead to Bowness 

Kendal to Ambleside 

Kendal to Ambleside, by Bowness 

Kendal to Patterdale (Ullswater) by Ambleside 

Kendal to Patterdale, by a new and pleasant road through 
Troutbeck, which leaves the Ambleside road on the 
right, a short distance beyond Ings Chapel ... 

From Ambleside round the two Langdales and back again 

Ambleside to Ullswater 

Ambleside to Keswick 

Keswick to Borrowdale, and round the Lake 

Keswick to Borrowdale and Buttermere 

Keswick to Wasdale and Calder Bridge 

Calder Bridge to Buttermere and Keswick . . 

Keswick, round Bassenthwaite Lake 

Keswick to Patterdale, Pooley Bridge, and Penrith 

Keswick to Pooley Bridge and Penrith 

Keswick to Penrith . . 

Whitehaven to Keswick 

Workington to Keswick 

Penrith to Hawes Water . . 

Carlisle to Penrith 

Penrith to Kendal 



Miles. 
30 
22 
21 
21 
35* 
19 
17 
5 
6 
14 
15 
24 



18 
18 
10 

16* 

12 
23 
27 
29 
18 
38 
24 

17* 

27 

21 

27 

18 

27 



INTRODUCTION. 



Mr. West, in his well-known Guide to the Lakes, recom- 
mends, as the best season for visiting this country, the interval 
from the beginning- of June to the end of August ; and the 
two latter months being a time of vacation and leisure, it is 
almost exclusively in these that strangers resort hither. But 
that season is by no means the best ; the colouring of the 
mountains and woods, unless where they are diversified by 
rocks, is of too unvaried a green ; and, as a large portion of 
the vallies is allotted to hay-grass, some want of variety is 
found there also. The meadows, however, are sufficiently 
enlivened after hay-making begins, which is much later than 
in the southern part of the island. A stronger objection is 
rainy weather, setting in sometimes at this period with a 
vigour, and continuing with a perseverance, that may remind 
the disappointed and dejected traveller of those deluges of 
rain which fall among the Abyssinian mountains, for the 
annual supply of the Nile. The months of September and 
October (particularly October) are generally attended with 
much finer weather ; and the scenery is then, beyond com- 
parison, more diversified, more splendid, and beautiful ; but, 
on the other hand, short days prevent long excursions, and 
sharp and chill gales are unfavourable to parties of pleasure 
out of doors. Nevertheless, to the sincere admirer of nature, 
who is in good health and spirits, and at liberty to make a 
choice, the six weeks following the 1st of September may be 
recommended in preference to July and August. For there 
is no inconvenience arising from the season which, to such a 

B 



ii. TIME FOR VISITING THE COUNTRY. 

person, would not be amply compensated by the autun 
appearance of any of the more retired vallies, into which 
cordant plantations and unsuitable buildings hav, 
found entrance. In such spots, at this season, there if 
admirable compass and proportion of natural harmony in 
colour, through the whole scale of objects ; in the tender 
green of the after-grass upon the meadows, int. with 

islands of grey or mossy rock, crowned with shrubs and trees ; 
in the irregular inclosures of standing com. or stubble-i 
in like manner broken; in the mountain-sides with 

fern of divers colours ; in the calm blue lake> and n\ 
and in the foliage of the trees, through all the til una, 

from the pale and brilliant yellow of tin- birch an 
the deep greens of the unfaded oak and alder, and i 
upon the rocks, upon the trees, and the i J 

most travellers are either stinted, or stint ti- 
the space between the middle or last week in 1 1 the 
middle or last week in June, may be ; 
the best combination of Ion- days, fin r, and i 
of impressions. Few of the nativi en in full 
but, for whatever may be wanting in depth i mora 
than an equivalent will be found in \\w diver- hage, 
in the blossoms of the fruit-and-berry-bearing trees which 
abound in the woods, and in the golden flowers of the broom 
and other shrubs, with which many of the copses 
veined. In those woods, also, and on these mountain- 1 
which have a northern aspect, and in the 
the spring-flowers still linger; while the open and sunny 
places are stocked with the ilowers of the apprt Aching dimmer. 
And, besides, is not an exquisite pleasure >till untasted by him 
who has not heard the choir of linnets and thru>hes chaunt- 
ing their love-songs in the copses, woods, anil ws of 
a mountainous country; safe from the birds of prey, which 
build in the inaccessible crags, and are at all hours 
heard wheeling about in the air ? The numb. 
midable creatures is probably the chief cause, why. in the 



TIME FOR VISITING THE COUNTRY. 111. 

narrow vallies, there are no skylarks ; as the destroyer would 
be enabled to dart upon them from the surrounding- crags, 
before they could descend to their ground-nests for protection. 
Tt is not often that the nightingale resorts to these vales ; but, 
almost all the other tribes of our English warblers are numer- 
ous ; and their notes, when listened to by the side of broad 
still waters, or when heard in unison with the murmuring of 
mountain-brooks, have the compass of their power enlarged 
accordingly. There is also an imaginative influence in the 
voice of the cuckoo, when that voice has taken possession of 
a deep mountain valley, very different from any thing which 
can be excited by the same sound in a Hat country. Nor 
must a circumstance be omitted, which here renders the close 
of spring especially interesting ; I mean the practice of bring- 
ing down the ewes from the mountains to yean id the vallies 
and enclosed grounds. The herbagti being thus cropped as 
it springs, that first tender emerald green of the season, which 
would otherwise have lasted little more than a fortnight, is 
prolonged in the pastures and meadow- for many weeks: 
while they are farther enlivened by the multitude of lambs 
bleating and skipping about. These Sportive creatures as 
they gather strength, are turned out upon the open mountains, 
and with their -lender limbs, their snow-white colour, and 
their wild and light motions, beautifully accord or contrast 
with the rocks and lawns upon which they must now begin 
to seek their food. And last, but not least, at this time the 
traveller will be sure of room and comfortable accommodation, 
even in the smaller inns. I am aw are that few of those who 
may be inclined to profit by this recommendation will be 
able to do so, as the time and manner of an excursion of 
this kind are mostly regulated by circumstances which prevent 
an entire freedom of choice. It will therefore be more pleasant 
to observe, that, though the months of July and August are 
liable to many objections, yet it often happens that the wea- 
ther, at this time, is not more wet and stormy than they — 
who are really capable of enjoying the sublime forms of nature 

b 2 



IV. ORDER OF APPROACH. 

in their utmost sublimity — would desire. For no traveller, 
provided he be in good health, and with any command of time, 
would have a just privilege to visit such if he could 

grudge the price of a little confinement among them, or inter- 
ruption in his journey, for the sight or sound of a 
coming on or clearing away. Insensible must be be who 
would not congratulate himself upon the bold bursl 
shine, the descending vapours, wandei 
and the invigorated torrents and waterfall-, with which 1 . 
weather, in a mountainous region, is accompanied. At 
a time there is no cause to complain, either of the mom 
of midsummer colouring, or the glarin sphere of 

cloudless, and hot days. 

Thus far concerning the respectiyi 
advantages of the differentseaM.n- fol .ntrv. 

As to the order in which objects are b< st seen— a lake 
composed of water flowing from i land- 

ing itself till its receptacle is filled to the brim.— it fol 
that it will appear to most adyant 
its outlet, especially if the lake be in a mountainous 
for, by this way of approach, the traveller 
features of the scene, and is gradually i 
sublime recesses. Now, even one knows, that from an. 
and beauty the transition to sublimity i>. easy and f.r 
but the reverse is not so; for. after the faculti 
elevated, they are indisposed to humbler excitemei 



* The only instances to which th< 
apply, are Derwent Water and Lowes Water. Peru i 
ed form all the other Lakes by being surrounded * it 
fantastic mountains of Borrowdale to the south, the 
ot fckiddaw to the north, the bold steep, ol 
to the east, and to the west the clustering nioimtai 
Lowes Water is tame at the head., but tov . 

tZil7 V ^ ^ 8 ' eneral obse ™ tion h olds good : neither 
mountains that dignify the landscape towards the oir 



COMPARISONS, HOW INJURIOUS. V. 

It is not likely that a mountain will be ascended without 
dissappointment, if a wide range of prospect be the object, 
unless either the summit be reached before sun-rise, or the 
visitant remain there until sun-set, and afterwards. The 
precipitous sides of the mountain, and the neighbouring* sum- 
mits, may be seen with effect under any atmosphere which 
allows them to be seen at all ; bat he is the most fortunate 
adventurer, who chances to be involved in vapours which open 
and let in an extent of country partially, or, dispersing- sud- 
denly, reveal the whole region from centre to circumference. 

A stranger to a mountainous country may not be aware 
that his walk in the early morning ought to be taken on the 
eastern side of the vale, otherwise he will lose the morning 
light, first touching the tope and thence creeping down the 

> of the opposite bilk, a- the ran ascends, or he ma] 
to Borne central eminence, commanding both the shadows 
from the and the lights upon ti n mountains. 

But, if the horizon line in the east be low. the western - 
ma) betaken for the sake of the n m the m 

of light from the rising sun. [nth like rest 

the contrary course should be taken. 

Alter all. it is upon th< atravelli along 

with him that hi- acquisitions, whether 
must principally depei I be allowed a lew words 

this 6Ubj< 

Nothing i< more injurious t<> genuine feeling than the 
practice of hastily and ungraciously depreciating the Face of 
one COUntrj by comparing it with that of another. True it 
is, "Qui bene distinguit bene docet; v yet fastidionso 

wretched travelling companion ; and the best guide, to which 
in matters of taste we can entrust ourselves, is a disposition 

to he pleased. For example, if a traveller he among- tin 
Alps, let him surrender up his mind to the fury of the gigantic- 
torrents, and take delight in the contemplation of their almost 
irresistible violence, without complaining of the monotony of 
their foaming course, or being disgusted with the muddine • 

b 3 



VI. COMPARISONS, HOW INJURIO 

of the water, apparent even where it is violently agitated. 
In Cumberland and Westmorland, let not the comparative 
weakness of the streams prevent him from sympathising with 
such impetuosity as they possess ; and, making the moat 
the present objects, let him, as he justly may do, observe 
with admiration the unrivalled brilliancy of the water, and 
that variety of motion, mood, and character, that arises oat 
the want of those resources by which the power of the Bl 
in the Alps is supported. — Again, with 
mountains; though these are comparatively of diminul 
size ; though there is little of perpetual snow, and do 
summer-avalanches is heard among them ; and tl 
left by the ravage of the elements are here comparatively :. 
and unimpressive, yet out of thifl vi 1 -y 
sense of stability and permanence that is, to many mi, 
more grateful — 

" While the coarse ruslu 

Si#h forth their aiu'u-nt melodies.* 

Among the Alps are few places which d Una 

feeling of tranquil sublimity. Havoc, and ruin, and deaobt 
and encroachment, are everywhere more or lees obtrad 
and it is difficult, notwithsi the 

pikes, and the snow-capped summits of the i 

from the depressing Bensation, thai the whole are in a raj 

process of dissolution ; and. were it not that the destrucl 
agency must abate as the heights diminish, would, in tin* 

come, be levelled with the plains. Xeverthel. aid 

relish to the utmost the demonstrations o( every B] 
power at work to effect such chang 

From these general views let as descend a moment 
A stranger to mountain imagery naturally on his rir-* 
looks out for sublimity in every object that admits of it : 
is almost always disappointed. For this disappointment 
there exists, I believe, no general preventive ; nor is it desir- 
able that there should. But with regard to one ( 



ALPINE SCENES. VII. 

objects, there is a point in which injurious expectations may 
be easily corrected. It is generally supposed that waterfalls 
are scarcely worth being- looked at except after much rain, 
and that, the more swoln the stream, the more fortunate the 
spectator ; but this, however, is true only of large cataracts 
with sublime accompaniments : and not even of these without 
some drawbacks. In other instances, what becomes, at such 
a time, of that sense of refreshing coolness which can only be 
felt in dry and sunny weather, when the rocks, herbs, and 
flowers glisten with moisture diffused by the breath of the 
precipitous water ? But, considering these things as objec- 
tions of sight only, it may be observed that the principal 
charm of the smaller waterfalls or cascades consists in certain 
proportions of form and affinities of colour, among the com- 
ponent parts of the scene; and in the contrast maintained 
between the falling water and that which is apparently at 
rest, or rather settling gradually into quiet in the pool below. 
The beauty of such a scene, where there is naturally so much 
agitation, i^ also heightened, in a peculiar manner, by the 
glimmering, and, towards the verge of the pool, by the steady 
reflection of the surrounding images. Now, all these delicate 
distinctions are destroyed by heavy iloods, and the whole 
stream rushes along in foam and tumultuous confusion. A 
happy proportion of component parts is indeed noticeable 
among tin; landscapes of the North of England; and, in 
this characteristic, essential to a perfect picture, they surpass 
the scenes of Scotland, and, in a still greater degree, those 
of Switzerland. 



DIRECTIONS AND INFORMATION 



THE TOURIST. 



There are three approaches to the Lakes through Yorkshire ; 
the least advisable is the great north road by Catterick and Greta 
Bridge, and onwards to Penrith. The Traveller, however, 
taking this route, might halt at Greta Bridge, and would be well 
recompensed if he could afford to give an hour or two to the banks 
of the Greta, and of the Tees, at Rokeby. Barnard Castle also, 
about two miles up the Tees, is a striking object, and the main 
North Road might be rejoined at Bowes. Every one has heard 
of the great fall of the Tees above Middleham, interesting for 
its grandeur, "as the avenue of rocks that leads to it is to the 
geologist. But this place lies so far out of the way as scarcely 
to be within the compass of our notice. It might, however, be 
visited by a Traveller on foot, or on horseback, who could re- 
join the main road upon Stanemoor. 

The second road leads through a more interesting tract of 
country, beginning at Ripon, from which place see Fountains' 
Abbey, and thence, by Hackfall and Masham, to Jervaulx Abbey, 
and up the Vale of Wensley ; turning aside before Askrigg is 
reached, to see Aysgarth-force, upon the Ure ; and again, near 
Hawes, toHardraw Scar, of which, with its waterfall, Turner has 
a fine drawing. Thence over the fells to Sedbergh, and Kendal. 

The third approach from Yorkshire is through Leeds. Four 
miles beyond that town are the ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, should 
that road to Skipton be chosen ; but the other, by Gtley, may 



2 CHOICE OF APPROACH. 

be made much more interesting, by turning off at Addington to 
Bolton Bridge, for the sake of visiting the Abbey and grounds. 
It would be well, however, for a party previously to secure beds, 
if wanted, at the inn, as there is but one, and it is much re* 
to in summer. 

The Traveller on foot, or horseback, would do well to follow 
the banks of the Wharf upwards, to Burnsall, and thence cross 
over the hills to Gordale — a noble scene, beautifully described 
in Gray's Tour, and with which no one can be disappointed. 
Thence to Malham, where there is a respectable village inn, 
and so on, by Malham Cove, to Settle. 

Travellers in carriages must go from Bolton Bri< ! y | >ton, 

where they rejoin the main road; and should they be inclined 
to visit Gordale, a tolerable road turns oft' beyond Skipton. A 
mile north of Settle, under Gigglcswick Scar, the road panes 
an ebbing and flowing well, worthy the notice of the Natm 
and when at Clapham, six miles from Settle, the Tourist should 
not omit to inquire for Clapham Cave, a striking and curious 
cavern which has recently been discovered within tl 
of Mr. Farrer, of Ingleborough Hall. It is situated within half 
a mile of the New Inn, from whence parties may be accommo- 
dated with a guide to this beautiful and singular object. 
miles to the right of Ingleton, is Weathercote 
fine object ; and in the same vicinity are several other ca vera 
of a similar description. About a mile distant from W 
is Chapel-le-dale, a favourable point for tl 
borough, the height of which is 2361 feet above the level 
sea ; but whoever diverges for these, must return to Ingleton, 
and proceed to Kirkby Lonsdale, near to which town ob 
the view from the bridge over the Lime, and 
channel of the river ; and by no means omit looking at the Vale 
of Lune from the Church-yard. From this point to Kendal the 
distance is 13 miles, by a good road. 

The journey towards the Lake country through Lancashire 
is, with the exception of the Vale of the Ribble at Preston, un- 
interesting, till you come near Lancaster, and obtain 
the fells and mountains of Lancashire and Westmorland. 
Lancaster Castle, and the Tower of the Church seenr. 
make part of the Castle, in the foreground. 

The Tourist approaching through Lancashire should deter- 



FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 3 

mine, when at Preston, upon the route which he will take on 
entering the Lake District. The Railway from Preston to 
Fleetwood, communicating with steam-boats which cross the 
Estuary, to Bardsea, on the Furness coast, has opened out ano- 
ther route by which the Lake District may be approached, and 
it therefore becomes necessary that the Tourist should decide 
whether he will take this route, or proceed forward to Lancas- 
ter and cross the Sands to Ulverston, or (which is most direct) 
to Kendal, by the Vale of the Lune or Kent, and thence to 
Bowness. The latter route is perhaps attended with the least 
danger, and brings the Traveller at once into the region of the 
Lakes without exposure to the uncertainties of a sea voyage. 
If, however, the Tourist should wish to visit Furness Abbey 
before entering on the Lake District, then either of the two 
former routes should be selected. All these roads will be found 
noticed in the following pages. 



We purpose to conduct the Stranger bij each of the 
three Routes before mentioned, in succession, to Amble- 
side, as temporary head-quarters, and afterwards point 
out the approach from the North* 

FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 
1— PRESTON to ULVERSTON, by Fleetwood. 

To Fleetwood, by Railway 1 hour. 

Fleetwood to Bardsea,* by Steam-boat 1£ „ 

Bardsea to Ulverston :i miles. 

Correct information of the times of starting the Trains from 
Preston to Fleetwood may be obtained at the Railway Station. 
Fares, 4s., 3s., and 2s., according to the class. 

At Fleetwood an elegant Hotel has been erected, which is 
conducted by Mons. Vantini, the Proprietor of the Euston 
Hotel, in London, and there are other comfortable Inns in the 
town. Conveyances are in attendance on the arrival of the 
Steamer at Bardsea to take passengers forward to Ulverston, 

* Inns and Public Houses are marked thus (*). 



FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 



three miles distant, and from which place the Excursion to Fur- 
ness Abbey, a circuit of 14 miles, may be conveniently made, 
taking the direct road to Dalton ; but by all means returning 
through Urswick, for the sake of the view from the top of the 
hill before descending into the grounds of Conishead Priory. 
If time should serve, Pedestrians might at once proceed from 
Bardsea to Furness Abbey by the following route. 



Miles. Miles. 
5 Bardsea to Furness Abbey, by 
Birkrigg 5 



Miles. 

2 Dalton .. 

5 Uiverston 



Miles. 



12 



Bardsea is within a short walk of Conishead Priory, the 
nificent residence of T. R. G. Bradyll, Esq., which the 
Tourist would be much gratified by visiting. Through the 
liberality of the proprietor, the house, which has some good 
pictures, is allowed to be seen on Wednesday- and Friday 
the spacious gardens are open to the public every d 
Sunday. The section of the gardens appropriated to the gp 
of American plants is said to be the most extensive in 

FURNESS ABBEY. 

The Monastery that has long borne the name of 
Abbey, according to the authority of John Stell, a Monk who 
belonged to the House, was first planted at Tulket, in Amoun- 
derness, in the year 11*24 ; three years after which, viz. on the 
1st of July, 1127, it was translated, and founde Mien, 

Earl of Bologna and Morton (afterwards King 1 , in 

the Vale of Bekansgill,* in the Peninsula of Eur: 

Furness is an abbreviation of Frudernesi - the 
appeared in Doomeeday Book), or Futhi 
to have been more frequently written. FtUher is co 
tured by Dr. Whitaker to be a personal name, probablj 
of the first Saxon planter or proprietor of the district : Net 
a promontory ; than which hardly any appellation could be more 
appropriate, as descriptive oi the southern extremity of the 
territory where the Abbey stands. 

The Monks of Furness originally belonged to the Savignian 
order ; an order which, of all others, complied most scrupul 

* Bekansgill, from Lethel Bekan, the Solamm 

Night Shade, which once abounded in the - 



FURNESS ABBEY. 5 

with the rules of the great parent of monachal institutions, 
St. Benedict. About 1148, in the Pontificate of Eugenius III., 
the whole order of Savignian Monks matriculated into the Cis- 
tercian or Bernardine, in honour of St. Bernard, a man of great 
sanctity and learning, who reformed and remodelled the Bene- 
dictine rules. In the time of Bajocis, their fifth Abbot, the 
Monks of Furness (after some hesitation and opposition) con- 
sented to become Cistercians, the rules of which order they 
religiously observed till the general Dissolution of Monasteries. 
Rising from its titular Saint, Bernard, and twelve monks, 
who filiated from Citeaux,* the Cistercian order, in an incredibly 
short time, became of great repute and corresponding extent. 
So rapid was its progress that before the death of Saint Bernard, 
he had founded 1 60 Monasteries ; and in the space of fifty years 
from its first establishment as an order, it had had acquired 800 
Abbeys ! All the Houses belonging to this order were dedicated 
to the Virgin Mary. 

In England and Wales there were eighty-five Houses of the 
Cistercian order ; of which number two only were situated in 
the County of Lancaster, viz. Furness and Whalley, Until the 
time of Pope Sextus IV. their rules and observances, both as to 
fasting and religious devotions, were uncommonly rigorous ; but 
this Pontiff published a decree to mitigate the austerities of 
their spiritual exercises, and to preserve uniformity in table and 
dress. From this time they were allowed to eat flesh three 
times in a week, for which purpose a particular dining-room, 
distinct from the usual Refectory, was fitted up in every 
Monastery. 

Their dress was a whitef Cassock, with a Caul and Scapulary 
of the same. For the Choir dress they wore a white or grey 
Cassock, with Caul and Scapulary of the same, and a girdle of 
black w r ool ; over that a Mozet, or Hood, and a Rochet, the 
front part of which descended to the girdle, where it ended in a 
round, and the back part reached down to the middle of the leg 
behind. Whenever they appeared abroad, they wore a Caul 
and a full black Hood. This is only a general description of 
their dress ; for every House had something particular to itself. 

* Hence the name of the order, Cistercian. 

f The dress of the Savignians was grey, from which they were 
usually called Grey Monks. 

c 



6 FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 

With respect to the power, privileges, benefactions and pos- 
sessions of Furness Abbey, it would would take almost an entire 
volume fully to narrate and illustrate the whole. 

The lordship of Furness comprehends all that tract of land, 
with the islands included, commencing in the north at the Shire 
Stones, on Wrynose Hills, and descending by Elterwater into 
Windermere, and by the outlet of that lake at Newby Bridge, 
over Leven Sands into the sea. Extending along the sea, it 
includes the Isle of Foulney, the Pile of Fouldrey, and the Isle 
of Walney. Beyond which, turning to the north-east, it 
ascends, first by the estuary of Duddon, and then by the river 
itself, — which, by the names of Duddon, and, higher up, of 
Cockley Beck, traces an ascending line to Shire Stones again, 
where the boundary commenced. 

The power of the Abbot, throughout the whole of this territory, 
in affairs both ecclesiastical and civil, was confessedly absolute. 
Within these limits he exacted the same oath of fealty which was 
paid to the King. The veneration which the sanctity and 
dignity of his office inspired, and the circumstance of his terri- 
tory being bounded on the one hand by seas almost impassable, 
and on the other by mountains almost insurmountable, con- 
spired to give to Furness the character and importance of a 
separate and independent kingdom. Even the military estab- 
lishment of the district depended upon the Abbot ; and every 
Mesne Lord obeyed his summons in raising his quota of armed 
men for guarding the coasts or for the border service. He had 
the patronage of all the Churches, except one. He had also, 
by prescription, the appointment of Coroner and Chief Constable, 
and all Officers incident to the Courts Baron. He, and all his 
men, were free from all county amerciaments, and suits of 
counties and wapentakes. He had a free market and fair in 
Dalton; with a Court of criminal jurisdiction. He issued sum- 
monses and attachments by his own bailiffs. He had the return 
of all writs ; and the Sheriff, with his officers, were prohibited 
from entering his territories under any pretext of office what- 
ever. His lands and tenants w r ere exempt from all regal exac- 
tions of talliage, toll, passage, pontage, and vectigal ; and no 
man was to presume to disturb or molest the Abbot, or any of 
his tenants, on pain of forfeiting ten pounds to the King ! In 
addition to all which, he was immediate owner and occupant of 



FURNESS ABBEY. 7 

almost half the low country, And for protections, privileges, 
and immunities, there were few Monasteries indeed that could 
boast so much. Pope Eugenius III. and Pope Innocent III. 
both conferred special favours on the Furness Monks ; and the 
princely foundation of Stephen was confirmed and secured to 
them by the Charters of twelve succeeding Monarchs of England. 
Immense wealth was, besides, conferred on them by propitiatory 
offerings of the neighbouring families of opulence, who conse- 
crated their substance, with, their bodies, to the sacred retirement 
of the Abbey. 

With these means and appliances, the Monks exercised abso- 
lute dominion over the whole peninsula of Furness during four 
centuries, from the foundation of the Abbey till the general 
Dissolution of Monasteries in the time of Henry VIII. , when 
ail power and authority, wealth and honours, were surrendered 
up to the King. The last Abbot was humbled to accept, as a 
pension, during the remainder of his life, the profits of the 
Rectory of Dalton, which were then valued at £33 6s. 8d. per 
annum. 

Such is a brief and bare outline of the history of this once great 
and magnificent Abbey. The situation of the Monastery indi- 
cates the peculiar good taste of the architects. Secluded in a 
deep glen, which nevertheless opens out below 7 into an expanse 
of fertile meadows, irrigated by a murmuring brook ; and 
screened by a forest of stately timber, the contemplative Monks 
could here, unawed and unseen, perform their holy rites, and 
pour out their souls in prayer ! 

" Such is the dwelling, grey and old, which in some world-worn mood, 

The youthful poet dreamed would suit his future solitude ; 

If the old abbey be his search, he might seek far and near 

Ere he could find a gothic Cell more lonely than was here. 

Long years have darkened into time since Vespers here were rung, 

And here has been no other dirge than what the winds have sung ; 

And now the drooping ivy wreaths in ancient clusters fall, 

And moss o'er each device hath grown upon the sculptured wall.' , 

We find nothing to add to Mr. West's description of the 
edifice in the ■« Antiquities of Furness," published in 1805: 
The ruins since that time have undergone very little alteration. 

The magnitude of the Abbey may be known from the dimen- 
c 2 



g FLEETWOOD KOUTE. 

sions of the ruins ; and enough is standing to shew that in the 
style of architecture prevailed the same simplicity of 
which is found in most houses belonging to tl. :an monks, 

which were erected about the same time with Furness A 
The round and pointed arches occur in the doors and windows. 
The fine clustered Gothic and the heavy plain Saxon pillars 
stand contrasted. The walls shew excellent masonry, a 
many places counter-arched, and the ruin- 
cement. 

The east window of the church has been noble ; some ol 

painted glass that once adorned it is preserve! in a win-low in 
Windermere Church. The window consist npart- 

ments, or partitions. In the third, fourth, 

picted, in full proportion, the Crucifix ion, with t; Marj j 

on the right, and the beloved disciple on I 

cross: angels are expressed receiving t! 

five precious wounds: below the c 

their proper habits, with the abbot in a 

are written on labels issuing from their mouths 

name is defaced, which would have givi 

In the second partition are the ti_ 

dragon. In the sixth is represented St. I 

emblems of her martyrdom, the sword and wl 

seventh are two figures of mitred 

two monks dressed in vestments. In thi 

ment, above, are finely painted, quarterly, the b ranee : 

and England, bound with the garter and i, 

done m the reign of Edward III. Tl 

tilled up by pieces of tracery, with some : 

and the arms of several benefactors, 

ter, Urswick, Harrington, Fleming, Milium. 
On the outside of the window at 

??; ?v head of ste P hen *■ * 

hat of Maude his queen, both crowned, and well , 
the south wall, and east end of the church, are four 
with Gothic ornaments. In these the officiati, _ 
his attendants, sat at intervals during the solemn s 
!TL ^ emiddles P^e, where the first bar 
7^1 3 " ' F0CUmbeUt %Ur ° ° f * — - T- I 



FURNESS ABBEY. 9 

The chapter-house is the only building belonging to the Abbey 
which is marked with any elegance of Gothic sculpture ; it has 
been a noble room of sixty feet by forty-five. The vaulted 
roof, formed of twelve ribbed arches, was supported by six 
pilars in two rows, at fourteen feet distance from each other. 
Now, supposing each of the pillars to be eighteen inches in 
diameter, the room would be divided into three alleys, or pas- 
sages, each fourteen feet wide. On entrance, the middle one 
only could be seen, lighted by a pair of tall pointed windows 
at the upper end of the room ; the company in the side passage 
would be concealed by the pillars, and the vaulted roof, that 
groined from those pillars, would have a truly Gothic dispro- 
portioned appearance of sixt; . The northern 

side alley was Lighted by a pair of similar side i ; . hts, and a pair 
at the upper end : the southern side alley was lighted by four 
small [jointed side wind le« a pair at the higher end at 

present entire, and which illustrate what ii here said. Thus, 
whilst the upper end of the room had a profui _ht, the 

ild be in tl I pilar 

ly fall in : or porch is still stand- 

ing, a fine cornice, and a 

portico on each side. of any apartment 

that of a building without t: cure wall, 

which wa Q 

rle-ribbed arch that all. 

The | 

which only one r< retted upon four tall 

pillars, whereof three are t. tered, but the fourth ii of a 

plain unmeaning tion. 

i an addition, tl 

part, ! for a belfry, to ease the main tower; but that is 

d the monks even intended it, the -tone 

would not admit oi executed at Fountains 

and Rievaul Abbeys. The east end of the church eontai 

altars, besides the high altar, as appears by the chapels ; and 
probably there was a private altar in the sacristy. In magnitude, 
this Abbey was the second in England belonging to the Cister- 
cian monks, and next in opulence after Fountains' Abbey in 
Yorkshire. The church and cloisters were encompassed with a 
wall, which commenced at the east side of the great northern 

c 3 



JO FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 

door, and formed the strait enclosure ; and a space of ground, 
to the amount of sixty-five acres, was surrounded with a stone 
wall, whioh enclosed the mills, kilns, ovens, and fish-ponds be- 
longing to the Abbey, the ruins of which are still visible. This 
last was the great enclosure, now called the Deer Park, in which 
such terraces might be formed as would equal, if not surpass, 
any in England. 

EXPLANATION OF THE GROUND-PLAN OF FTJRNESS ABBEY. 

A, B, C, Q, T, V, N, represent the parts of the church. 

A, the east end of the church, where the higher altar stood. Behind 
that was the cir cum ambulatory. 

In the south wall was placed the piscina, or cistern, at which the 
priest washed his hands before service; there is also a small niche, 
and over it hung the manutergium, on each side of the cistern for 
receiving the purifactories. Below these are four stalls, or seats, in 
the wall, richly ornamented in the Gothic style, in which the officiating 
priest, with his assistants, sat at intervals, in time of celebrating high 
mass. 

Q. the choir. — CC, chapels. — V, 1 vestry. 

TT, the transept. At the north end of the transept below T, is the 
great door into the church ; and at the south end is a door-case lead- 
ing to the dormitory, through which the monks came into the church 
at midnight to sing matins, or morning prayers. On the west side of 
the door at the north end of the transept, there is a spiral stair-case, 
which, after rising in a perpendicular direction for a considerable 
height, has branched out into a passage in the western wall, and led 
to another flight of spiral stairs, on the top of one of the clustered 
columns, which supported the central spire over the intersection of 
the nave and the transept. These different flights of steps have formed 
the communication between the ground floor of the chnrch and the 
higher parts of the spire. 

N, the nave of the church. Above N, is the southern aisle ; and 
below N. is the northern aisle. In the south wall adjoining the 
transept, is a door-way opening into a quadrangular court. There 
has probably been also a door-way in the north wall, near the west 
end of the nave. 

B, the belfry, or tower, at the west end of the church. In the wall 
on the south side of the ruins of this tower, close to the west window, 
there is a part of the spiral stairs which led to the top of the tower. 

CH, CL, H, K, L, M, NO, O, P, PL, QC, R, S, U, represent the 
chapter-house, the cloisters, and part of the Abbey adjoining. 

CH, the chapter -house, over which were the library and scriptorium. 
The roof is represented as it lately stood. The porch has been orna- 
mented with a deep ox-eye cornice, and pilasters of marble. The pilas- 
ters are demolished, but the roof is entire. On each side of this porch 
there is a portico in the wall, with a similar cornice. 

It, the dining-room, or refectory. There has been a passage leading 
from it to K, the kitchen and offices, over which were lodging-rooms 
for the secular servants. 

L, the locutorium, the calefactory, and conversation room. 

il, halls and rooms. 



GROUND PLAN OF FURNESS ABBEY. 




JO FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 

S, a building on the outside of the strait enclosure, supposed to 
have been the school-house. There is a stone seat all round, and in 
the south wall is the stone pillar upon which was erected the pulpit 
of the teacher, The roof of this building is entire, and also that of a 
passage adjoining. Over these have been apartments. 

PP, pasages;— CL, the opposite wing of the cloisters razed to the 
ground.— QC, the area of the quadrangular court.— PL, a porter's 
lodge and gateway.— M, the mill.— MR, the mill race.— O, the great 
oven.— NO, the ruins of a building of uncertain extent, supposed to 
have been the Noviciate.— UU, the ruins of buildings of uncertain 
extent and appropriation. 

The rivulet from the north, which constantly runs through the 
valley, is conducted by the east end of the church and side of the 
cloisters in a subterraneous passage or tunnel, which is arched over. 
Another temporary brook from the west, has been conducted by NO, 
and under S, in a similar manner. There has also been a subterraneous 
passage, leading from the race of the rivulet, under K, and forwards 
in an unknown direction. It has probably been conducted under some 
part of the church, and has served for a drain or sewer. 



DIMENSIONS OF THE CHURCH, THE CHAPTER-HOUSE, AND CLOISTERS. 

The inside length of the church, from east to west, is 275 feet 8 
inches : the thickness of the east end wall, and the depth of the east 
end buttress, 8 feet 7 inches : the thickness of the west end wall, 9 feet 
7 inches: the depth of the west end buttress, 10 feet 8 inches: the 
extreme length of the church, 304 feet 6 inches. The inside width of 
the east end is 28 feet, and the thickness of the two side walls, 10 feet. 
The total width of the east end is, therefore, 38 feet. The height of 
the arch above Q, from the floor to the underside of the centre-stone, 
is 52 feet 6 inches. 

The inside length of the Tbansept is 130 feet: the south wall is 
6 feet, and the north wall 3 feet 6 inches in thickness : the inside 
width of the transept is 28 feet 4 inches : the thickness of the two side 
walls, 8 feet 8 inches. The whole breadth of the transept is, there- 
fore, 37 feet. 

The inside width of the nave is 66 feet; and the thickness of the two 
side walls, 8 feet ; therefore the whole width of the nave is 74 feet. 
The height of the side walls of the church has been about 54 feet. 

The inside of tHe Chapter-House measures 60 feet bv 45 feet G 
inches, and the thickness of each wall, 3 feet six inches. 

The inside width of the Cloisters is 31 feet 6 inches, and the thick- 
ness of the two walls, 8 feet. 

The area of the quadrangular court is 338 feet 6 inches bv 102 feet 
G inches. On solemn days the monks used to walk in procession 
round this court, under a shade. 

Dalton — Dalton was anciently the capital of Furness, and 
has a population of about 800. Market day, Saturday. The 
Courts of the Liberty and Manor of Furness are held in the 
Castle, which consists of an ancient square tower, situated at the 
top of a spacious market-place overlooking the town. The late 



ULVERSTON. — CONISTON. 13 

distinguished artist George Romney, the portrait-painter, was 
born at a place called Beckside, in Dalton, on the 5th December, 
1734. 

Ulverston is a flourishing market town and port, and is the 
emporium of Furness at the present day. Population, about 
5000. Market day on Thursday. Considerable quantities of 
wrought iron ore from the neighbouring country are exported 
from this place — Inns, Sun Inn, Brady IPs Arms. 

From this quarter the Lakes would be advantageously ap- 
proached by Coniston ; thence to Hawkshead, and by the Ferry 
over Windermere, to Bowness and Ambleside ; a much better 
introduction than by going direct from Coniston to Ambleside, 
which ought not to be done, as that would greatly take from the 
effect of Windermere : — 

ULVERSTON to CONISTON WATER HEAD. 

6 Lowick Bridge 6 18 Coniston Water Head* ... 16 

2 Nibthwaite 8 | 

This road is along a narrow vale, beautifully divided by hang- 
ing inclosures and scattered farms, half way up the sides of the 
mountains, whose heads are covered with heath and brown 
vegetation. About three miles from Ulverston observe a farm- 
house on the left, and a group of houses before you on the right. 
Stop at the gate on the brow of the hill, and have a distant view 
of the lake. The whole range of Coniston fells is now in sight. 
Advancing, on the left see Lowick Hall, once the seat of a 
family of that name. Cross the river Crake at Lowick, and 
keep on the eastern side of the lake of Coniston till you reach 
the inn at its head. 



ISxcurgtons from erontston Skater ?$*ft&. 

From this inn, a leisurely Traveller might have much pleasure 
in looking into Yewdale and Tilberthwaite, returning from the 
head of Yewdale by a mountain track which has the farm of 
Tarn Hows a little on the right. By this road is seen much 
the best view of Coniston Lake from the north. 

An enterprising Tourist might go to the Vale of Duddon, 
over Walna Scar, down to Seathwaite, Newfield, and to the 



j , FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 

rocks where the river issues from a narrow pass into the broad 
vale Horses may be taken over this mountain track, which is, 
however, in places very steep and difficult. The distance is 

1 Coniston Church 1 I 1 Top of Walna Scar 4 

2 Runner from Goat Scar ... 3 | 2 Newheld 6 

The stream is very interesting for the space of a mile above 
this point, and below, by Ulpha Kirk, till it enters the Sands, 
where it is overlooked by the solitary mountain Black Comb, 
the summit of which, as that experienced surveyor, Colonel 
Mudge, declared, commands a more. extensive view than any 
point in Britain. Ireland he saw more than once, but not when 
the sun was above the horizon. 

" Close by the Sea, lone sentinel, 

Black-Comb his forward station keeps : 
He breaks the sea's tumultuous swell, — 

And ponders o'er the level deeps. 
He listens to the bugle horn, 

Where Eskdale's lovely valley bends, 
Eyes Walney's early fields of corn ; 

Sea-birds to Holker's woods he sends. 
Beneath his feet the sunk ship rests, 
In Duddon Sands, its masts all bare :" 

******* 

The Minstrels of Windermere, by Chas. Farish, B.D. 

The following description of the scenery in this Excursion is 
extracted from Mr. Wordsworth's Notes to the River Duddon: — 

" This recess (the Vale of Seathwaite), towards the close of 
September, when the after-grass of the meadows is still of a 
fresh green, with the leaves of many of the trees faded, but 
perhaps none fallen, is truly enchanting. At a point elevated 
enough to shew the various objects in the valley, and not so high 
as to diminish their importance, the stranger will instinctively 
halt. On the foreground, a little below the most favourable 
station, a rude foot-bridge is thrown over the bed of the noisy 
brook foaming by the way side. Russet and craggy hills, of 
bold and varied outline, surround the level valley, which is 
besprinkled with grey rocks plumed with birch trees. A few 
homesteads are interspersed, in some places peeping out from 
among the rocks like hermitages, whose sites have been chosen 



EXCURSION TO THE VALE OF SEATHWAITE. 15 

for the benefit of sunshine as well as shelter ; in other instances, 
the dwelling-house, barn, and byre, compose together a cruci- 
form structure, which, with its embowering trees, and the ivy 
clothing part of the walls and roof like a fleece, call to mind the 
remains of an ancient abbey. Time, in most cases, and nature 
everywhere, have given a sanctity to the humble works of man, 
that are scattered over this peaceful retirement. Hence a har- 
mony of tone and colour, a consummation and perfection of 
beauty, which would have been marred had aim or purpose in- 
terfered with the course of convenience, utility, or necessity. 
This unvitiated region stands in no need of the veil of twilight 
to soften or disguise its features. As it glistens in the morning 
sunshine, it would fill the spectator's heart with gladsomeness. 
Looking from our chosen station, he would feel an impatience to 
rove among its pathways, to be greeted by the milkmaid, to 
wander from house to house, exchanging * good-morrows ' as he 
passed the open doors ; but, at evening, when the sun is set, 
and a pearly light gleams from the western quarter of the sky, 
with an answering light from the smooth surface of the meadows ; 
when the trees are dusky, but each kind still distinguishable ; 
when the cool air has condensed the blue smoke rising from the 
cottage chimneys ; when the dark mossy stones seem to sleep in 
the bed of the foaming brook ; then, he would be unwilling to 
move forward, not less from a reluctance to relinquish what he 
beholds, than from an apprehension of disturbing, by his ap- 
proach, the quietness beneath him. Issuing from the plain of 
this valley, the brook descends in a rapid torrent passing by the 
church-yard of Seathwaite. From the point, where the Sea- 
thwaite brook joins the Duddon, is a view upwards, into the 
pass through which the river makes its way into the plain of 
Donnerdale. The perpendicular rock on the right bears the 
ancient British name of The Pen ; the one opposite is called 
Wallabarrow Crag, a name that occurs in other places to 
designate rocks of the same character. The chaotic aspect of 
the scene is well marked by the expression of a stranger who 
strolled out while dinner was preparing, and at his return, being 
asked -by his host, ' What way he had been wandering?' replied, 
4 As far as it is finished I' " 

The carriage road to Seathwaite is by either of the two 
following routes : — 



16 



FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 



1 Coniston Church 

2i Torver 

7" Broughton 

1 Duddon Bridge ±H 



3 \ Ulpha Kirk-house 15 

2 Newfield, near Seathwaite 

Chapel 17 



Broughton Mills 8£ 

Newfield 12* 



3* Torver 3£ 

3 - Three miles beyond Torver 

take the road to the right 6 \ 

Both these roads afford many pleasing and extensive prospects, 
and are thus described by Mr. Green : — 

" The road leading from Coniston to Broughton is over high 
ground, and commands a view of the river Duddon ; which, at 
high water, is a grand sight, having the beautiful and fertile 
lands of Lancashire and Cumberland stretching each way from 
its margin. In this extensive view, the face of nature is 
played in a wonderful variety of hill and dale, wooded grounds, 
and buildings. Amongst the latter, Broughton Tower, the 
residence of John Sawrey, Esq., seated on the crown of a hill, 
rising from the valley, is an interesting object. Fertility on 
each side is gradually diminished, and lost in the superior height! 
of Black Comb, in Cumberland, and the high lands between 
Kirkby and Ulverston. 

" The road from Broughton to Seathwaite is on the banks of 
the Duddon, and on its Lancashire side is of various elevations. 
The river is an amusing companion, one while brawling and 
tumbling over rocky precipices, until the agitated water bee 
again calm by arriving at a smoother and less precipitous bed, but 
its course is soon again ruffled, and the current thrown into 
every variety of form which the rocky channel of a river can 
give to water." 

The Tourist may either return to the inn at Coniston by 
Broughton, or by turning to the left before he comes to that 
town; or, which would be much better, he may cross from 
Ulpha Kirk over Birker Moor, taking care to turn to the right 
by a very indifferent road over the common, (apparently leading 
only to a farm house), before beginning to descend into Eskdale, 
which will conduct him to Stanley Gill, at the head of the 
finest ravine in the country. Three-quarters of a mile higher up 
the valley, on the same side, appears Birker Force, dashing 



CONISTON OLD MAN, 17 

over a high, naked, and precipitous rock.* Thence proceed up 
the Vale of the Esk, by Hardknott and Wrynose, to Ambleside. 
Near the road, in ascending from Eskdale, are conspicuous re- 
mains of a Roman fortress, called by the country people "Hard- 
knott Castle" most impressively situated on the right, halfway 
up the hill. This road, however, is now scarcely practicable 
except on foot or on horseback. It has escaped the notice 
of most Antiquarians, and is but slightly mentioned by Lysons. 
There is a Druidical Circle about half a mile to the left of 
the road ascending Stone-side from the Vale of Duddon : the 
country people call it " Sunken Church." 

From SPRINGFIELD, in Seathwaite, over the Mountains to STAN- 
LEY GILL and BIRKER FORCE, in Eskdale, and thence to 
Ambleside. 

4 Stanley Gill 4 1 16 Ambleside, over Hardknot 

2 Birker Force 6 | and Wrynose 22 

The ascent to the Top of the OLD MAN Mountain is 
recommended before leaving Coniston ; but the ground being 
rugged, in places, it should not be undertaken without a 
guide. The height of the Old Man is 2577 feet, and the view 
from it is inferior to no mountain view in the country, excepting 
that from Scawfell or Helvellyn, if indeed it be inferior to 
the latter. The ascent should be made by following the 
ancient horse-road over Walna Scar for about a mile, and then 
turning to the right towards an old slate quarry, whence you will 
have to scramble to the summit. Low Water lies immediately 
below the highest point, in a hollow of the mountain, to the 
east, and Goat's Water is situated under the precipitous side 
of Dow Crag on the west. The stream from it flows into 
Coniston. Blind Tarn (so called, perhaps, from its having no 
outlet) will be seen further to the south, under a part of Walna 
Scar. A walk of half a mile from the top towards the north-west 
will bring the Traveller in sight of Seathwaite Tarn, which sends 
a tributary to the Duddon. Those who can give a day to the ex- 
cursion will do well to follow the mountain range to Wetherlam, 

* Stanley Gill is often erroneously called Birker Force, by the 
dalesmen, by which confusion of the two names the stranger is apt 
to be misled. The original name of this fall was, we believe, Dale- 
garth Force ; and was changed to Stanley Gill, by the present pro- 
prietor, Mr. Stanley, of Ponsonby . 



1<* FLEETWOOD ROUTE. 

n lofty ridge that sweeps round to the north of the Old Man, 
under which lies a fine Tarn called Levers Water, where cop- 
dining is carried on much to the injury of this magnificent 
icene. From Wctherlam descend into Tilberthwaite, and so 
rot urn to Coniston. " This lake is six miles long and three- 
quarters of a mile in breadth. Its greatest depth is twenty- 
sovon fathoms, and it is famous for its charr (salmo alpinas), 
■ species of trout, which inhabits the deep water, and is only 
taken at particular times of the year. Large quantities are 
potted, and sent to the south. They do not attain a large size, 
seldom, perhaps, exceeding a pound in weight. Coniston, Win- 
dermere, Wastwater, Buttermere, Crummock, and Ullswater, 
are, it is said, the only lakes which contain them. The charr of 
Coniston Water stand highest, and those of Ullswater lowest in 
repute." 

The road from Coniston Water Head to Ambleside direct, is 
eight miles ; but, as has been before said, a circuitous route by 
Hawkshead, the Ferry, and Bowness, 15 miles, in the folio wing- 
order, is recommended as a much better introduction to Win- 
dermere : — 

To EAYf KSHEAD, 3 m. 

From HAWKSHEAD/ by the Grove and Esthwaite Hall, round 
ESTHWAITE WATER. 



11 Nearer Sawrey 2£ 

2 J Hawkshead -5 



* Esthwaite Water £ 

\ The Grove 1 

\ Esthwaite Hall \\ 

From HAWKSHEAD to the FERRY, through Colthouse and High 
Wray. 

Ferry House, by Belle 



Grange G£ 



\ Colthouse | 

li Blelham Tarn 2 

\ High Wray 2$ 

From HAWKSHEAD to AMBLESIDE, by the Ferry, Windermere, 
and Bowness. 



2\ Nearer Sawrey 2| 

\\ Ferry House, through Far- 
ther Sawrey 4 



2 Bowness, over Windermere 

by the Ferry 6 

4 Low Wood Inn 10 

2 Ambleside 12 



Hawkshead is a compact little market-town, at the southern 
end of which, on a good elevation, stands the Parish Church, 
commanding a pleasant prospect of the Vale and Lake of 
Esthwaite, the latter of which is two miles long and half a mile 
in breadth. Here is a Free Grammar School, founded in 1585, 
by Edwjne Sandys, Archbishop of York, whose family name is 



HAWKSHEAD. — BOTANICAL NOTICES. 19 

yet found in the vicinity. Some years ago this school was filled 
with pupils not only from the neighbourhood but from the sur- 
rounding counties, numbering at one period about 120. The 
poet Wordsworth, and his Brother, the late Master of Trinity 
College, Cambridge, with many others distinguished for classical 
attainments, were educated here. 

The most pleasant way round Esthwaite Water is by the Grove 
and Esthwaite Hall, passing Esthwaite Lodge, (T. Beck, Esq.)? 
on the right ; a little beyond w T hich the road follows the banks of 
the lake to its outlet near the bridge. From thence through the 
village of Sawrey, with Lake Field (J. It. Ogden, Esq.), on 
the left, pass on its eastern side, and, by Colthouse at its head, 
to Hawkshead. 

From Hawkshead to the Ferry- house on Windermere, where 
there is a good and commodious inn, the road on either side of 
the lake passes over hilly ground through the villages of Sawrey . 
The sight of Windermere from the top of the hill is extremely 
fine. 

The Tourist halting here for a while, should visit the Station- 
house, which is within a short and pleasant walk of the Inn, and 
commands a beautiful prospect of nearly the whole extent of the 
lake. Proceed to Bowness by the Ferry, and from thence to 
Low Wood and Ambleside ; or, if there be an objection to 
crossing the Ferry, there is a good road, abounding in a delight- 
ful succession of changes, on the west side of the lake, 8 miles, 
to Ambleside. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Atropa Belladonna. — About Furness Abbey. 

Circjea alpina. — On the road-side between Ulverston and Hawks- 
head. 

Bmnuiiblfarir. )° D T , the ° ld Man . Mo ™ tai "> Coniston 

a l zo l^ es f These three species may be found on 

, . / l most of the mountains in the Lake 
hypnoides. ) DiBtrict . 

Geranium sylvaticum. — Coniston Water Head. 

Ornithopus perpusillus. — On the road-side on the East side of 
Coniston Lake. 

Habenaria albida. — On the high ground between Coniston and 
Hawkshead. 

Spiraea salicifolia. — At Pool Bridge, near Hawkshead. 

IVIecanopsis cambrica. ) Au . , , -c w . -, 

Hypericum Androsamum. \ About the Ferr y> Windermere. 

Geranium columbinum. — Near Fell-foot, Newby Bridge. 

Serratula tinctoria.—Bj the river-side, near Newby Bridge. 

D 2 



20 



THE OVER-SANDS ROUTE. 

From PRESTON to LANCASTER takes three-quarters of an hour, 
by Railway. Fare 5s. and 3s. according to class. 

Lancaster, the capital of the County Palatine of Lancaster, 
is very finely situated on a hill rising abruptly from the river 
Lune which falls into the Bay of Morecambe at the distance of 
six miles. There is excellent accommodation at three good 
inns, the Kings Arms, Royal Oak, and Commercial On the 
summit of the hill is the Castle, a majestic structure originally 
built by Roger de Poictou in the 11th century, and re-edified by 
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, in the 14th. It has been 
greatly enlarged in modern times, and now serves as the county 
gaol. The Parish Church of St. Mary's, an ancient structure 
with a lofty tower, stands also on the Castle Hill. A handsome 
new church has been recently erected in Penny Street, and 
there are several other Episcopal and Dissenting Places of 
Worship in that town. The County Lunatic Asylum is a hand- 
some building situated on Lancaster Moor, about a mile from 
the town, and is capable of accommodating 300 patients. The 
foreign commerce of Lancaster has been on the decline for many 
years, having been injured by the competition of Liverpool ; 
and the river being difficult of navigation, in neap tides the 
larger ships generally unload at Glasson Dock, five miles dis- 
tant from the town. Lancaster is connected with the principal 
towns of the county by a canal, which is carried over the Lune 
two miles from the town by a magnificent aqueduct, erected by 
the late Mr. Rennie. There are two swift packet-boats on the 
canal to and from Kendal daily. Lancaster is celebrated for the 
manufacture of mahogany furniture, and several cotton and silk 
mills have of late years been established here. The formation of 
the Railway to Lancaster has been of great importance to the 
town, and may be considered as the beginning of a new era in 
its history — transforming a listless and stationary community 
into one of those " hives of industry " by which the commercial 
character of this country is sustained. Market on Wednes- 
day and Saturday. 



LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 21 



LANCASTER to ULVERSTON, over Sands. 



Si HestBank* 3£ 

J Lancaster Sands 3£ 

9 Kent's Bank (across the 

Sands) 12£ 

1 Lower Allithwaite ... 13£ 



1J Flookborough* 15 

I Cark* 15| 

I Leven Sands 16 

5 Across the Sands to Ulver- 

ston 21 



The Stranger, from the moment he sets his foot on those 
Sands, seems to leave the turmoil and traffic of the world behind 
him : and, crossing the majestic plain whence the sea has re- 
tired, he beholds, apparently from its base, the cluster of moun- 
tains among which he is going to wander, and towards whose 
recesses, by the Vale of Coniston, he is gradually and peacefully 
led. " On entering the Sands, to the left," says Mr. West, 
" Heysham Point rises abruptly, and the village hangs on its 
side in a beautiful manner. Over a vast extent of sands, Peel 
Castle, the ancient bulwark of the bay, rears its venerable head 
above the tide. In front appears a fine sweep of country sloping 
to the south. To the right Warton Crag presents itself in a 
bold style. On its arched summit are the vestiges of a square 
encampment, and the ruins of a beacon. Grounds stretching 
from the eye for many a mile, variegated in every pleasing form 
by woods and rocks, are terminated by cloud-topt Ingleborough. 
A little further, on the same hand, another vale opens to the 
sands, and shews a broken ridge of rocks, and beyond them 
groups of mountains towering to the sky. Castle-steads, a 
pyramidal hill that rises above the station at Kendal is now in 
sight. At the bottom of the bay stands Arnside Tower, once 
a mansion of "the Stanleys. The Cartmel coast now, as you 
advance, becomes more pleasing. Betwixt that and Silverdale 
Nab (a mountain of naked rock) is a great break in the coast, 
and through the opening the river Kent rolls its waters to join 
the tide. In the mouth of the estuary are two beautiful conical 
isles, clothed with wood and verdure. As you advance toward 
them they seem to change their position, and hence often vary 
in appearance. At the same time a grand view opens of the 
Westmorland mountains tumbled about in a most striking 
manner. At the head of the estuary, under a beautiful green 
hill, Heversham village and church appear in fine perspective. 
To the north, Whitbarrow Scar, a huge arched and ben fled 
cliff, of an immense height, shews its storm-beaten front. The 

d 3 



22 OVER-SANDS ROUTE. 

intermediate space is a mixture of rocks, woods, and culti- 
vated patches, forming a romantic view. At the side of the 
Eau, or river of the sands, a guide on horseback, called the 
Carter, is in waiting to conduct passengers over the ford. The 
priory of Cartmel was charged with this important office, and 
had synodals and peter-pence allowed towards its maintenance. 
Since the dissolution of the priory, it is held by patent of the 
Duchy of Lancaster, and the salary, twenty pounds per annum, 
is paid by the Receiver- General." 

On leaving Lancaster Sands at Kent's Bank, having the bold 
headland of Humphrey Head on the left, pass through Flook- 
borough and Cark, and begin to cross Leven Sands at Cark 
Lane, three miles to the landing-place, whence the distance is 
two miles to Ulverston. At the JSau, or ford of the river 
Leven, another Carter conducts you over the stream. On 
entering these Sands you have " on the right a grand view of 
Alpine Scenery. A rocky hill, patched with wood and heath, 
rising immediately from the coast, directs the eye to an im- 
mense chain of lofty mountains, apparently increased in height 
and magnitude since they were seen from Hest Bank." On the 
left is a small island called Chapel Island, on which stand the 
ruins of a chapel, originally dependent on Conishead Priory, 
which is seen richly embosomed in wood on the opposite coast. 
Near Humphrey Head is Holywell, noted for its mineral 
w r ater; and in the immediate vicinity of Flookborough, in a 
richly-wooded park, stands Holker Hall, the magnificent 
residence of the Earl of Burlington. About a mile and a half 
from Holker is Cartmel, whose ancient church, once a priory, 
is an interesting object. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Pyrus Aria. "\ 

Veronica spicata. /„ _ __ 

Helianthemum canum. \ On rocks at Humphrey Head, near 

Astragalus glycyphyllos. C Cartmel. 

Hypoch;eris maculata. ) 

Convallaria multifiora.—Ai Holker. 

Those Tourists who dislike to cross the Sands may take the 
following extended route by Levens Bridge. The road is 
excellent, and passes through a pleasant and agreeable country. 
The objects upon it, as far as Levens Bridge, are noticed in the 
Kendal Route, p. 24. 



LANCASTER TO ULVERSTON. 



23 



12 Hale* 


. ... 12 


3 Lindal* 


£ Beethom* 


... 12* 


2 Newton* 


l| Milnthorpe ... . 


. ... 13| 


2 Newby Bridge* 


l| Heversham* 


... 15 


2 Low Wood* .. 


l| Levens Bridge 


. ... 16* 


3 Greenodd* ... 


4 Wither slack* 


... 20* 


3 Ulverston 



LANCASTER to ULVERSTON, by Levens Bridge. 

23* 

... 2b\ 
27* 

... 29* 
32* 

... 35* 

After crossing Levens Bridge, the Ulverston road turns off, five 
miles from Kendal, over extensive mosses, to the left, having the 
noble limestone rock of Whitbarrow (yielding but few fossils), 
whose abrupt escarpment forms a remarkable object in the 
scenery, on the right hand. The road passes Castle Head, on 
the left, before reaching Lindal, where there is a long and tedious 
hill to overcome, from the top of which is seen in retrospect an 
extensive view of Morecambe Bay. On ascending the hill,ELLER- 
how, the residence of Geo. Webster, Esq., is seen in the valley 
on the right. The road is now a gradual descent to Newby Bridge, 
at the foot of Windermere, where there is a comfortable Inn. 
From Newby Bridge to Ulverston is a pleasant drive of eight 
miles, passing on the road the extensive Cotton Mills of Ains- 
worth and Co., at Backbarrow, and the Gunpowder Works of 
Daye Barker, and Co. at Low Wood. 

[Deviation. — Another road to Bowness branches off at the 
Bridge Inn on the Moss to the right, leading through Lyth, 
Crosthwaite, and Winster. The distance to Bowness from 
Milnthorpe by this road is about fourteen miles.] 

From Ulverston the Tourist may follow the route to Amble- 
side by Coniston, already recommended, or he may proceed 
more directly by Newby Bridge, as follows : — 

ULVERSTON to BOWNESS and AMBLESIDE, by Newby Bridge. 

3 Greenodd 3 18 Bowness 16 

3 Low Wood 6\6 Ambleside 22 

2 Newby Bridge* 8 | 



BOTANICAL NOTICES. 



> 



LATHRiEA squamaria. 

Conyza squarrosa. 

Polypodium vulgare, var. cambricum, 

Trif olium c / ragiferum. — Near Low Levens 

Hottonia palustris. 

Andromeda polifolia 

Sium angustifolium, 

inundatum. 

Apium graveolens. 



Levens Park. 



> On Brigsteer Moss, 



24 KENDAL ROUTE. 

Silaus pratensis . ") 

! I roscTAMUS m^er. > Near Levens Church, 

i ! i noglossum officinale. 3 
Vbbbascum Thapsus. 1 

Sum r«pe7W. f At foot of Bngsteer Scar. 

\i\vu,Y>Gi± vulgaris. J 
Po r.v podium calcareum. — Whitbarrow. 
Melamptrum sylvaticum. — Whitbarrow woods. 
Allium Schamoprasum. — Rusmittle, Lyth. 
Ophrys muscifera.— Rusmittle. 
Hab enaria bifolia. \ Rllsmittle . 

G v mn ai>eni a conopsea . > 

Inula Helenium.— Fellside farm, at Crosthwaite. 
Grammitis Ceterach. — Near Fellside, do. 
Duosera rotundifolia. 
- longifolia. 



Anglica. 

Gentian a Pneumonanthe. f On Fowlshaw Moss. 
Utricularia vulgaris. 

. * minor, 

Scirpus maritimus. 

Verbena officinalis. — Road-side at Lindal. 



Let us now go back to Preston, and conduct the Stranger to 
Ambleside by 

THE KENDAL ROUTE. 

The Railway will carry him in three-quarters of an hour to 
Lancaster, already noticed, whence there are three roads to 
Kendal, severally described in the following Tables. 

The old road to Kendal by Burton is 22 miles, but by making 
a circuit of eight, miles, the Vale of the Lune to Kirkby Lonsdale 
will be included. The whole tract is pleasing ; there is one 
view, mentioned by Gray and Mason, especially so. In West's 
Guide it is thus pointed out: — " About a quarter of a mile 
beyond the third mile-stone, where the road makes a turn to the 
right, there is a gate on the left which leads into a field where 
the station meant will be found." The shortest and most direct 
road to Kendal is by Milnthorpe. 

LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Kirkby Lonsdale. 



5 Caton 


5 


2 Tunstall 


. ... 13 


2 Claughton 


7 


2 Burrow 


... 15 


2 Hornby* 


9 


2 Kirkby Lonsdale 


. ... 17 


2 Melling 


11 


13 Kendal 


... 30 



TO KENDAL BY BURTON AND MILNTHORPE. 25 

Kirkby Lonsdale contains a population of 1643, and is 
beautifully situated on the west bank of the river Lune. Mar- 
ket on Thursday. Inns, Rose and Crown, and Green Dragon, 
The bridge over the Lune is a very picturesque and interesting 
structure. It is lofty, and has three noble arches beautifully 
ribbed. Little is known about the date of its erection. The 
Clergy Daughters' School and the School for the education and 
training of Female Servants, at Casterton, a mile and a half 
distant, are objects of interest, and worthy of a visit. Under- 
ley Hall, the magnificent seat of Alderman Thompson, M.P. 
stands a mile north of the town, and nearly facing it, on the 
opposite side of the river, is Casterton Hall, the residence of 
W. C. Wilson, Esq. See p. 2. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Saponaria officinalis. — Under Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. 

Galium boreale. — Under Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. 

Allium oleraceum. — Near Kirkby Lonsdale bridge. 

Hypericum dubium. — Below the bridge. 

Geranium phceum. — Between Kirkby Lonsdale and Cowan bridge. 

Salix Smitliiana. \ 

Weighiana. f On the banks of the Lune, near Kirkby 

tenuifolia. / Lonsdale. 

Croweana. J 



LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Burton. 

lOf Burton lOf I \ End Moor* 16 

4| Crooklands* \b\ | 6 Kendal 22 

Inns. — Burton, Royal Oak, King's Arms. 
A good part of the way from Lancaster to Burton is cheered 
with fine prospects of the sea, and the mountains of Lancashire 
and Westmorland. About six miles from Lancaster, at a short 
distance, on the left, is Warton Crag, a bold elevation, and 
highly interesting to the Botanist. After leaving Burton, the 
road passes, on the right, a stupendous limestone-rock, called 
Farleton Knott, said to resemble the rock of Gibraltar in out- 
line ; and about three miles from Kendal a hill on the right, 
called Helm, or Castle-steads, with the traces of a Roman en- 
campment on its summit, is passed. 

LANCASTER to KENDAL, by Milnthorpe. 

2| Slyne* 2f 

If Bolton-le-Sands* 4 

2 Carnforth* 6 



Junction of the Milnthorpe 
and Burton roads ... 8 
4 Hale* ... .... 12 



£ Beethom 12£ 

1\ Milnthorpe 13| 

l£ Heversham* 15 

1£ Levens Bridge -.. ... 16| 
4J Kendal 2H 



26 KENDAL ROUTE. 

This road leaves Warton Crag on the left, and branches off 
from the Burton road at a distance of eight miles from Lancas- 
ter ; then passes through the pleasant village of Beethom to 
Milnthorpe, where there is a good inn — The Cross Keys. 
Dallam Tower, the residence of George Wilson, Esq., is seen 
on the left, in a richly-wooded park. One mile from Milnthorpe 
pass through Heversham, the birth-place of the late venerable 
Bishop Watson. A mile further stands Levens Hall, the 
ancient and picturesque seat of the Hon. F. G. Howard, 
which is deserving of notice. The gardens were originally 
laid out by the gardener of James II. in the old Dutch style, 
and are the admiration of every visitor to this delightful spot. 
The park is separated from the house by the high-road, and is 
well stocked with deer. There is a pleasant walk through the 
park by following the river Kent, and passing through the 
village of Sedgwick to Kendal. A mile from Levens pass on 
the left Heaves Lodge, the residence of James Gandy, Esq., 
and on the right, at a short distance, Sedgwick House, the 
seat of John Wakefield, Esq. A mile further, on the left, 
stands Sizergh Hall, the ancient family seat of the Stricklands. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Convolvulus Arvensis. ) -^ TT . 

Malva Sylvestris. f Near Heversham. 

Potentilla verna.— Whitbarrow Woods. 

Osmunda regalis.—Bj the road-side under Whitbarrow. 

Vaccinium oxycoccos.— Very abundant on Fowlshaw Moss. 

Sparganium natans. — Fowlshaw. 

Campanula latifolia.—lu the hedges. 

trachelium.— In Park-head Lane. 

Kendal is the largest and most important town, though not 
the metropolis, of the County of Westmorland, situated principally 
on the west bank of the river Kent, in a pleasant and fertile 
valley encompassed by hills of considerable height. It consists 
of two main streets, in continuity, from north to south, from 
which all the other streets, lanes, and alleys branch off at right 
angles. Excellent accommodations will be found at two <?ood inns, 
The King s Arms (Holmes), and Commercial Hotef { Fisher). 
Kendal is a place of great antiquity, but the re-erections and 
enlargements which have taken place within the last half century 
have given it a modern appearance. The houses are built of 
mountain limestone, peculiarly rich in organic remains, which is ' 



KENDAL. 27 

obtained in great abundance from Kendal Fell, on the west side 
of the town. This material is quarried out in large blocks, and, 
being capable of a very high polish, is also extensively used in 
the manufacture of chimney-pieces. The woollen manufactures 
of this kingdom were first established, by Act of Parliament, in 
Kendal. John Kemp, a manufacturer from Flanders, was the 
person who first received ^protection" to establish himself in 
this country, and he settled here in the reign of Edward III. 
(1331). To the woollen manufacture this town has long been 
indebted for its prosperity ; latterly, however, ow T ing to compe- 
tition in Yorkshire, &c. the trade in coarse woollens has not 
increased, and some of the manufacturers have turned their 
attention to the manufacture of fancy fabrics for waist-coatings, 
carpets, and worsted goods. 

The Castle stands upon a verdant knoll of oval shape on the 
east side of the town, and commands a pleasing and extensive 
prospect to the north and south-west. This fortress was the 
seat of the ancient Barons of Kendal, and the birth-place of 
Catherine Parr, the last wife of Henry VIII, No records have 
been preserved to establish the date of this castle. There is, 
however, very little doubt but it was raised altogether, or in 
part, by one of the first Barons of Kendal. If in part only by 
one of the first Barons, the completion of it must be assigned to 
those who lived in the 12th or early part of the 13th century. 
The circular tower of this castle is the most entire part of the 
ruin, and has evidently been the strongest ; but the precise 
time when it was erected, and whether the rest of the building 
be coeval with it, must, it is to be feared, for ever remain in 
obscurity. The order of architecture and the arrangements of 
the apartments, however, bear an obvious resemblance to some 
of the castles (Cockermouth Castle for a particular instance) 
w r hich have been referred to the time of the Conqueror. The 
date of the Castle's decay or destruction may fairly be taken 
from the attainder of Queen Catherine's brother, the Marquis 
of Northampton, in 1553, and as only nineteen years intervened 
between that event and the time when it has been proved to be 
in ruins (1565), the most plausible conclusion seems, that it was 
dismantled or thrown down in the marquis's unsuccessful engage- 
ments against the Crown, in favour of Lady Jane Grey. The 
Castle and part of the lands annexed to it have lately been pur- 



28 KENDAL ROUTE. 

chased by William Thompson, Esq. M.P. Alderman of London. 

For further particulars respecting the history of this venerable 

edifice, and the family of the Parrs, see the " Annals of Kendal." 

The Church, a Vicarage, in the gift of Trinity College, 
Cambridge, is a spacious five- aisled Gothic structure. In it 
are three " quires,'' or private chapels, memorials of the ancient 
dignity of three neighbouring families, the Bellinghams, Strick- 
lands, and Parrs. 

The Natural History Society's Museum is worthy the notice 
of passing Visitors. A considerable collection of specimens will 
be found in the following branches of natural science — Mineral 
Geology, Ornithology, Botany, &c. Admission, gratis, on 
obtaining a ticket from a Subscriber. 

There are many pleasant walks in the vicinity of Kendal, and 
to those whose feel an interest in Botanical and Geological pur- 
suits, this neighbourhood has peculiar attractions. The Walk 
to Scout Scar, a noble limestone cliff about two miles to the 
west of Kendal, is especially interesting. The Naturalist who 
may wander to this beautiful spot will find abundant material for 
interesting examination. For the use of the Botanist we sub- 
join a list of the rarer plants to be found in this locality. Many 
of the less common species of land shells, especially of the Helix, 
Pupa, and Vertigo genus, will be found in their peculiar habitats 
in the course of a ramble across the face of the hill. 
of the beds of the (carboniferous) limestone, exposed in the 
escarpment, yield in abundance the characteristic shells and 
corals of this formation. Part of the upper Ludlow rocks of 
the Silurian system may be seen cropping out beneath the 
limestone, and rising through the peat-moss, in rounded masses, 
in various parts of the valley below. A walk round the southern 
extremity of the fell, by the new road down to the villa_ 
Brigsteer, will amply repay the Geologist by a beautiful section 
through the limestone and Silurian beds, down to the level of 
the moss, which is exposed there. We may observe that the 
most characteristic fossils of the neighbourhood may generally 
be purchased from Collectors in Kendal; and the collection oV 
Mr. John Ruthven, an excellent practical geologist, who resides 
on the Beast Banks, is especially deserving of remark. The 
travelled blocks of greenstone, &c, from the Lake rocks, resting 
on different parts of the fell, and in many instances crowning it| 
highest elevations (blocs per chh), will not be passed unnoticed. 



BOTANICAL NOTICES. 



29 



BOTANICAL NOTICES IN THE WALK TO 
SCOUT SCAR. 



Above the Lime-kilns, Kendal fell. 



Abundant on Kendal fell. 



On Kendal fell. 



Scout Scar. 



Coronopus Ruellii. — Beast Banks 

Arenaria verna. ~\ 

Spergula nodosa. 

Gentiana Amarella. 

campestris. 

Galium pusillum. 

Asperula cynanchica. 

Daucus carrota. 

Gnaphalium dioicum. 

Polypodium dioicum. 

Grammitis Ceterach. 

Scolopendrium vulgare. 

Asplenium viride. — On the edge of Scout Scar. 

Sesleria ccerulea. — Kendal fell and Scout Scar. 

Helianthemum canum. ) 

Hippocrepis comosa. 

Thalictrum minus. 

Geranium sanguineum. 

Hypericum montanum. 

hirsutum. 

Pyrus Aria. 

Sedum Anglicum. 

Poterium sanguisorba. 

Conyza squarrosa. 

Epipactis latifolia. 

Brachipodium sylvaticum. 
Rhamncs catharticus. 
Frangula. 

Ophrys Nidus Avis. 

Lathr^a squamaria. 

Clinopodium vulgare. 

Origanum vulgare. 

Rub us saxatilis. 

Primula elatior. 

Epipactis palustris. 

Orchis latifolia § bifolia. 

Gymnadenia conopsea. 

Cladium mariscus. 

Viola palustris. 

Primul a farinacea. 

Eupatoria canabinum. 

Parnassi a palustris. 

Carex vesicaria. 

Trollius europceus. 

Epictatis ensifolia. 

Monotropa Hypopitys. 

Habenaria albida. 

Ophrys muscifera 

Con v a llari a Polygonatum. \ 

Viola hirta (plentiful). J 

Botrychium lunare. ) T , „ a utw j 

Ophioglossum vulgatum. } In meadows near Barrowfield Wood. 



• Cunswick Wood. 



About Cunswick Tarn. 



- Barrowfield Wood, but rare. 



flfl KENDAL ROUTE- 

BOTANICAL NOTICES NEAR KENDAL. 

Myrrh is odorata. — About Spittal. 
PaBIS quadr [folia, ^ 

Pb i m o LA elatior. > In Spital Wood. 

1'iuNi's Padus. W 

Cobydalis claviculata . j 

Hkbaoium ptdudosum. | In a margh behin( j Spital Wood, and in 

Viola palustris. > several moist situations. 

Tuolliits europceus. ) _ 

Chbysosplenium alternifolium. — Near the gate at Benson Hall. 

K AM u nc u lus auricomus. ) 

Stellakia nemorum. > Laverock Lane. 

Card amine amara. ) 

Geum rivale. ^ 

Yicia fyfoaffea. f LaveP ock bridge. 

Luzula pilosa. i 

Lathrjea squamaria. J 

Equisetum hyemale. — Near Old Field Wood, by the river side. 

Poly podium Dryopteris. } 

2 . Phegopteris. > At Scarfoot. 

Aspidium aculeaium, var. lonchitiforme. ) 

Meum athamanticum. — Docker Garths. 

Kibes alpinum.— Docker Brow. 

Vaccinium Oxycoccos. \ gkelgme h Tarn 

Comarum palustre. ) b 

Tanacetum vulgare. ) In a field near Jenkin Crag 

Geranium robertianum, ivhite var. $ Lane. 

Sium latifolium. — Stock Beck. 

Sen e cio saracenicus. — Do. 

Mecanopsis cambrica. — Peat Lane, Oxenholm, and Sprint Bridge. 

Cnicus heterophyllus. — Peat Lane. 

Cryptogramma crispa. — Do. 

Geranium cohimbinum. — Canal Banks. 

Calamintiia officinalis. — Kendal Castle. 

Allium arenarium. — By the river side near Helsington and Mint 
Bridge. 

Tamus communis. — Common in hedges. 

Colchicum autumnale. — Mintsfeet. 

Galeopsis versicolor. — Sprint Bridge, and Burneside Hall. 

Lycopus europceus. — Burneside Tarn. 

Bidens tripartita. — Near Burneside Hall. 

Thalictbum minus. — Lane to Cowan Head. 

Euonymus europmus. — Near Hundhow. 

Senecio sylvaticus. — Pine Crags. 

Sedijm anglicum. — Pine Crags and Katherheath. 

Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus. — Do. 

Geranium phceum. — Pepper-hag, near Burneside. 

sylvaticum. — Common in most of the wooded lanes. 

Sium inundatum.— Coypy Tarn, Tenter-fell, Stricklandgatc. 

Habenaria viridis.— Tenter-fell, Do. 

Sanguisorba officinalis.— In meadows round the town. 

Anchusa sempervirens. — Near Tolson Hall gate. 

Cystopteris/?v/^77u\— Gilling-grove, Kendal. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KENDAL. HAWES WATER. 31 

Before proceeding to Bowness and Ambleside, the Tourist, if 
so inclined, may conveniently make the following 

<&xcuvuon& from Heitlral. 

To SHAP WELLS. 

2£- Skelsmergh Stocks* 2| i 4 High Borrow Bridge* ... 9 

2* Plough Inn* 5 | 6 Shap Wells 15 

Shap Wells A spacious Hotel with Baths and every 

accommodation for visitors has been erected at this place. Shap 
Spa is stated by Mr. Alderson, in his " Treatise,'' to be a most 
genial and sanative saline spring, milder than the Harrogate, 
and more active than the Gilsland Water, and in its properties 
nearly allied to that of Leamington. It is much frequented by 
persons seeking health or recreation. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES NEAR SHAP. 

Carduus nutans. — Near the Toll-bar. 
Cnic us heterophyllus. — Hardendale. 
Campanula glomerata. — Do. 
Polygonum viviparum. — Do. 
Galium boreale. — Do. 

Hieracium Lawsoni. — Between Shap and Anna Well. 
Poterium sanguisorba. — Hardendale Nab. 
Sesleria ccerulea. — Do. V 

J 



To HAWES WATER, through Long Sleddale. 

4£T;Wateh Gate U I 2 Sadgill Bridge <U 

3 Long Sleddale Chapel 7| J 4£ Chapel Hill 14 

" Following, the road from Kendal to Shap for about four 
miles, the traveller will see, far under him, a deep narrow- 
valley, turning somewhat westward into the mountains : this is 
Long Sleddale, into which a cross-road down a steep hill will 
conduct him. If not one of the grandest character, it has the 
advantage at least of being thoroughly free from the intrusion of 
art. There is nothing to mar its harmony : and while passing 
along the narrow lanes, enclosed by thickly-lichened walls, tufted 
with wild flowers and crested by hedges, as the eye rests on 
the brilliant green of the meadows, the sparkling purity of the 
stream, or the autumnal tints of the copses, we heartily rejoice in 
our emancipation from the turnpike-road, and acknowledge this 

e 2 



33 KENDAL ROUTE, 

to be ft genuine and lovely specimen of pastoral scenery.* The 
upper portion of the dale is bleak and sterile, and the ascent to 
the summit of the pass which divides it from Mardale is weary- 
some ; but, on attaining the summit, the bird's-eye view of the 
deep green secluded glen beneath, and the abruptness and rug- 
gedness of the descent, will strike one who is unaccustomed to 
mountain-passes with surprise and delight. There is a small 
public-house, the White Bull, where rough but clean accom- 
modation may be had, at Mardale Green, about a mile above 
the head of Hawes Water. This lake is three miles long, — * a 
sort of lesser Ullswater,' Mr. Wordsworth says, * with this ad- 
vantage, that it remains undefiled by the intrusion of bad taste ;' 
and, from the remoteness of the situation, it is long likely to 
remain so. The eastern bank is clothed by natural wood, of no 
great size or beauty, but richly feathering the hill-side and shore 
of the lake." 

The tourist may return to Kendal through Kentmere, by re- 
versing the order of the next Excursion ; or, he may proceed to 
Bowness by striking across the summit of High Street on the 
right from the pass of Nanbield, and descending into the valley 
of Troutbeck, which opens to Windermere a little below Low 
Wood. The distance from Mardale to the public-house at 
Troutbeck is about six miles, from thence to Bowness it is four 
miles. High Street is 2,700 feet above the level of the sea. 
Remains of the Roman road from Kendal (Concangium) to Pen- 
rith (Petriana), may be traced along its summit. The views 
from it are extremely fine, and the road all the way to Bowness 
abounds in charming prospects. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES— LONG SLEDDALE. 

Anchusa sempervirens.— By the road-side in the Tale of Lone 

Sleddale. 
Cnicus heterophyllus.— In fields near the road. 
Mecanopsis cambrica.— Near the Chapel. 

* The Geologist will examine with interest a narrow band of lime- 
stone which crosses this valley, the shales of which abound with lower 
Silurian fossils. It will be found, with the greatest facility, near the 
junction of two small mountain streams, which pass down the lateral 
vale in which is situated the hamlet of Little London. This limestone 
band may be traced through the valleys of Kentmere (behind the Hall) 

ni 1 1< I ' near L ° W W °° d ' thence ^ €oniston Water Head, the 
Old Man, Torver, Broughton Mills, and across the river Duddon. 



HAWES WATER. 33 



Oxyria reniformis. 
Epilobium alsinifolium. 
Saxifraga stellaris. 
— aizoides. 



f y £j%ti eS ' r Above Buckbarrow Well. 



Alchemilla alpina. 

Cochlearia officinalis. 

Festuca ovina, var. vivipara. 

Lyco podium selaginoides. 

Cryptograms crispa. 

Teesdaeia nudicaulis. \ ^ ., ., <> ^ , 

Ehomola rosea. \ ° n the s,des of Goatscar. 

Rubus Chamcsmorus. — On the top of Goatscar. 

Aspidium Oreopteris. — Stony places. 

Gnaphalium dioicum. — Very fine on high pastures.* 



To HAWES WATER through Kentmere. 

5 Staveley* * 5 I 3£ Nanbield 12£ 

4 Kentmere Chapel* 9 | 2^- Head of Hawes Water* 15 

On leaving Kendal, the Ambleside road is to be pursued as 
far as Staveley, at which place a road to the right leads direct 
into the valley of Kentmere. This road is practicable for car- 
riages as far as the Chapel (near which is a small ale-house), 
beyond this point the excursion must be made on foot. A little 
to the south of the Chapel, stands Kentmere Hall, an ancient 
building with a square tower, now occupied as a farm-house. 
Bernard Gilpin, who, from his learning and piety, was called 
the " Apostle of the North," was born here in 1517. Towards 
the head of the vale, Kentmere Tongue shoots boldly forward 
from the Sleddale side of the dale towards Hill Bell and Rains- 
barrow, which, with High Street, altogether produce, from 
certain points, arrangements and combinations, which, in sub- 
limity, are scarcely equalled in Westmorland. 

The road crosses Kentmere Tongue on its northern side, from 
which it is a steep ascent to the pass at Nanbield, where there 
is a fine prospect of Hawes Water and the country about Low- 
ther and Penrith. From this place the road descends preci- 

* The Botanist will look in vain for Stipa pennata, if this beautiful 
grass ever grew here. Sibthorpia europcea, said to grow at Buck- 
barrow Well, is nothing more than Chrysosplenium oppositifolium, 
with large foliage but no flowers. The Silurian limestone before 
noticed, furnishes none of the plants or land-shells characteristic of 
the carboniferous Limestone. 

e 3 



; » 4 KENDAL H0UT2. 

p inm<!v to Mardale Green, passing a mountain tarn called Small 
Watm in its rawed track. Before reaching Mardale, the 
rtream which flows from Small Water is joined by a brook issu- 
ing from a little lake called Blea Watbr, lying at the Mardale 
end of High Street, under a high and perpendicular rock. This 
lake has on one side the mountain called Long Stile, or Riggen- 
dale Crags, and on the other the hill that separates it from Small 
Water. ^ The Kentmere road is joined at the foot of Harter 
Fell by that from Kendal through Long Sleddale, by which the 
tourist may return to Kendal: or, he may proceed to Bowness 
by the route over High Street, already pointed out. 

From CHAPEL HILL round HAWES WATER. 



3 Foot of the Lake ... ... ... 3 

2 Bridge between the villages 
of Bampton 5 



2 Foot of the Lake on the 

eastern side 7 

3 Chapel Hill ♦ 10 



KENDAL to AMBLESIDE, Direct. 



5 Staveley* 5 

1J Ings Chapel 6^ 

2 Orrest-head 8| 



1£ Troutbrck Bridge* 10 

2 Low Wood Inn 12 

2 Ambleside 14 



There are two roads from Kendal to Ambleside, the one direct, 
by Staveley ; the other, circuitous, through Bowness. These 
roads unite at Cook's House, about four miles from Ambleside. 
The traveller leaves Kendal by a steep ascent at the extremity 
of Stricklandgate, having St. Thomas' Church on the left and 
the Workhouse on the right hand. At the Toll-bar, about two 
miles from the town, the Bowness road branches off to the left 
from that direct to Ambleside. From this point the road is un- 
interesting till it gains the summit of the hill above Orrest Head 
(8J miles from Kendal), where the middle and lower divisions of 
Windermere suddenly appear ; and, presently, on the turn of 
the road, the upper reach of the Lake, with its luxuriantly- 
wooded foreground and the rugged mountains of Langdale in 
the distance, come into view. Opposite the gate at Orrest 
Head (J. Braithwaite, Esq.) a narrow lane to the left leads 
down to Bowness (two miles), but the main road to Bowness 
strikes off at Cook's House, before mentioned, a little beyond. 
The lane branching off at Cook's House on the right, leads to 
Troutbeck. After leaving Orrest Head the tourist will pre- 
sently see Elleray, the property, and formerly the residence, 




S 1 1 







Pi 






1^ CO 05 Cs ~i <Nl 









s 







KENDAL TO AMBLESIDE AND BOWNESS. 35 

of Professor Wilson, and about a mile further is Troutbeck 
Bridge, with Calgarth Park (T. Swinburne, Esq.) on the left. 
Calgarth Park was the seat of the learned and venerable Bishop 
Watson, of LlandafF. The tourist going direct through Stave- 
ley to Ambleside, when he reaches Cook's House, the point 
from which the road to Bowness branches off, ought by all means 
to go two or three hundred yards along that road, for the sake 
of the fine view of Windermere and the Calgarth woods which 
it presents. Having done this, he will return to the road lead- 
ing to Ambleside by 

LOW WOOD INN, 
a mile from the head of Windermere. This is a most pleasant 
halting-place ; no inn in the whole district is so agreeably situ- 
ated for water-views and excursions ; and the fields above it, 
and the lane that leads to Troutbeck near it, present beautiful 
views towards each extremity of the lake. From this place, 
and from Ambleside, rides may be taken in numerous directions, 
and the interesting walks are inexhaustible ; a few of these will 
hereafter be particularized. The road from Low Wood to Am- 
bleside, a distance of two miles, passes Dove Nest, for a short 
time in the summer of 1830 the favourite retreat of the late Mrs. 
Hemans, and Wansfell Holm, the seat of George Warden, 
Esq., from whence, across the head t)f the lake, at the foot of 
Loughrigg Fell, is seen Croft Lodge, the residence of James 
Brancker, Esq. From this point also, looking in the same direc- 
tion, the picturesque Chapel of Brathay, at the entrance of the 
vale of Langdale, is visible. This Chapel is in the Italian or 
Swiss style of architecture, and was built by Giles Redmayne, 
Esq., of London, whose summer residence, Bratkay Hall, is 
seen a little to the south. The Whitehaven mail passes daily 
through Ambleside, leaving Kendal at eleven o'clock in the 
morning, and arriving at Kendal from Whitehaven at two o'clock 
in the afternoon. 

BOTANICAL NOTICE. 
Helleborus Viridis, in a field on the left side of Banrigg farm-house, 
near the 8th milestone from Kendal to Ambleside. 



KENDAL to AMBLESIDE, by Bowness. 



4 Crook* 4 

2 Gilpin Bridge* 6 

3 Bowness * 9 



2£ Troutbeck Bridge 11£ 

2 Low Wood Inn 13£ 

1£ Ambleside 15 



ROUTE FROM THE NORTH. 

It has been before mentioned that the Bowness and Ambleside 
roads from Kendal divide at the turnpike-gate not two miles 
from Kendal. This road on the whole is of a more varied de- 
scription than the direct one; its localities are often pleasing, 
and its opening southward through Underbarrow is certainly 

fine. 

Windermere first bursts on the eye about a mile and a quarter 
from Bowness. Here it is seen spotted with all its pretty islands, 
and skirted by shores richly wooded. Presently Bowness comes 
into view, and the whole length of the lake stretching north- 
ward and southward. The Rydal mountains raise their heads 
at a considerable distance - 

The road from Bowness to its junction with that direct from 
Kendal to Ambleside is partly through wooded grounds. Ray- 
rigg, the seat of the Rev. Fletcher Fleming, stands on a slight 
elevation above the surface of the lake, and at an agreeable dis- 
tance from the road. On rising the hill beyond Rayrigg, it 
passes Millar Ground, an ancient farm-house, and soon joins the 
Ambleside road at Cook's House, having on the left a view of 
Windermere, with the Pikes of Langdale, forming a landscape 
of surpassing richness. The road from this point to Ambleside 
has been before noticed. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Polypodium Dryopteris.—l$ea,r the 5th milestone. 

Thlaspi alpestre.—'NesLT the 6th do. 

Drosera longifolia. \ 

Menyanthes trifoliata. I 

Hypericum elodes. s Near the 7th do. 

Nymphjea alba. L 

Nuphar lutea. j 

Thus far for those who approach the Lakes by the South. 



ROUTE FROM THE NORTH. 

Travellers from the North would do well to go from Carlisle 
by Wigton, and proceed along the Lake of Bassenthwaite to 
Keswick ; or, if convenience should take them first to Penrith, 
it would be still better to cross the country to Keswick, and begin 
with that vale, rather than with Ullswater. It is worth while 



WINDERMERE. 37 

to mention, in this place, that the banks of the river Eden, about 
Corby, are well worthy of notice, both on account of their na- 
tural beauty, and the viaducts which have recently been carried 
over the bed of the river, and over a neighbouring ravine. In 
the Church of Wetherby, close by, is a fine piece of monumental 
sculpture by Nollekens. The scenes of Nunnery, upon the 
Eden, or rather that part of them which is upon Croglin, a moun- 
tain stream there falling into the Eden, are, in their way, un- 
rivalled. But the nearest road thither, from Corby, is so bad, 
that no one can be advised to take it in a carriage. Nunnery 
may be reached from Corby by making a circuit and crossing the 
Eden at Armathwaite bridge. A portion of this road, however, 
is bad enough. 



WINDERMERE. 

Windermere is the largest of the English Lakes, being ten 
miles in length, and near a mile at its greatest breadth. Its two 
principal feeders are the rivers Brathay and Rothay, which join 
near Croft Lodge, and pour their united waters into the head of 
the lake. The Brathay rises in the group of lofty mountains 
between Langdale and Borrowdale. The Rothay issues partly 
from Rydal Water and partly out of the hills at the head of 
Ambleside. A circumstance very interesting to the Naturalist 
should be mentioned here. The Charr and Trout, at the ap- 
proach of the spawning season, may be seen proceeding together 
out of the lake up the stream to the point where the Brathay and 
Rothay meet," when they uniformly separate, as if by mutual 
arrangement, the charr always, and all of them, taking the Bra- 
thay, and the trout the other stream, the Rothay. Is it a dif- 
ference in the quality of the waters, or some geological peculi- 
arity in the river beds, that influences these fish in their choice 
of streams ? 

Numerous islands adorn the surface of this lake, the largest of 
which, Belle Isle, the summer residence of H. Curwen, Esq., 
contains upwards of thirty acres. This island is well wooded, 
and being intersected by shady walks, open to tourists, affords a 
pleasant change to those who land upon its shores. Lady 
Holme, an islet nearly opposite to Rayrigg, had, in the time of 
Henry VIII. a chapel dedicated to our Lady within its small 






WINDERMERE. 



'! 



territory, belonging to Furness Abbey, but no traces of this 
sanctuary are left to mark its site. 

BoWNESS, pleasantly situated upon the western side of the 
lake, and at an equal distance from each extremity, contains two 
comfortable and commodious inns; the Royal Hotel, Ullock's, 
(so designated since the visit of the Queen Dowager), and the 
Crown. The Church is an ancient structure with as quare 
tower, dedicated to St. Martin. The chancel window is of 
painted glass, and was brought hither from Furness Abbey after 
after the destruction of that monastery. (See p. 8, for a de- 
scription of this window.) The remains of the late learned 
Bishop Watson, of Llandaff, rest in the Church-yard, close by 
the eastern window. His tomb bears the following simple and 
unpretending inscription : 4 ' Ricardi Watson, Episcopi Landa- 
vensis, cineribus sacrum, obiit Julii 1, A.D, 1816, iEtatis 79." 
A handsome school-house looks down from an eminence in the 
centre of the village, and stands as a monument of the munifi- 
cence of the late John Bolton, Esq. oi Storrs Hall, who erected 
the edifice at his own expense. 

The lower part of Windermere is rarely visited, but has many 
interesting points of view, especially at Storrs Hall and at Fell- 
foot, where the Coniston mountains peer nobly over the western 
barrier, which elsewhere, along the whole lake, is comparatively 
tame. For one also who has ascended the hill from Grathwaite 
on the western side, the Promontory called Rawlinson's Nab, 
Storrs Hall, and the Troutbeck mountains, about sun-set, make 
a splendid landscape. The view from the Pleasure-house of the 
Station near the Ferry has suffered much from Larch plantations ; 
this mischief, however, is gradually disappearing, and the 
Larches, under the management of Mr. Curwen, are giving way 
to the native wood. Windermere ought to be seen both from 
its shores and from its surface. None of the other lakes unfold 
ko many fresh beauties to him who sails upon them. This is 
owing to its greater size, to the islands, and its having two vales 
at the head, with their accompanying mountains of nearly equal 
dignity. Nor can the grandeur of these two terminations be 
-•ell at once from any point, except from the bosom of the lake. 
The Islands may be explored at any time of the day ; but one 
bright unruffled evening, must, if possible, be set apart for the 
splendour, the stillness, and solemnity of a three hours' voyage 



WINDERMERE. 39 

upon the higher division of the lake,* not omitting, towards the 
end of the excursion, to quit the expanse of water, and peep 
into the calm river at its head ; which, in its quiet character,f 
at such a time, appears rather like an overflow of the peaceful 
lake itself, than to have any more immediate connection with 
the rough mountains whence it has descended, or the turbulent 
torrents by which it is supplied. Many persons content them- 
selves with what they see of Windermere during their progress 
in a boat from Bowness to the head of the lake, walking thence 
to Ambleside But the whole road from Bowness is rich in 
diversity of pleasing or grand scenery ; there is scarcely a field 
on the road side, which, if entered, would not give to the land- 
scape some additional charm. In addition to the two vales at 
its head, Windermere communicates with two lateral Vallies ; 
that of Troutbeck, distinguished by the mountains at its head — 
by picturesque remains of cottage architecture ; and, towards 
the lower part, by bold foregrounds formed by the steep and 
winding banks of the river. This Vale, as before mentioned, 
may be most conveniently seen from Low Wood. The other 
lateral Valley, that of Hawkshead, is visited most advantageously 
and conveniently, from Bowness ; crossing the lake by the 
Ferry — then pass the villages of Sawrey, and, on quitting the 
latter, there is a fine view of the Lake of Esthwaite, and the 
cone of one of the Langdale Pikes in the distance. From Bow- 
ness many pleasant walks may be taken ; but this station is too 
remote from the mountains for excursions, w r hich may be more 
conveniently taken from Low Wood or Ambleside. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Lobelia Dortmanna. — In Windermere, and most of the Lakes. 
Allium carinatum. — On Seamew Crag, Windermere. 
Convallaria majalis. — On Holme Island, do. 
Hypericum Androscemum. — Near the landing-place from the Ferry. 

* Upon the western side of the lake is now erecting, by Mr. Dawson, 
a large mansion, of castellated form, which promises to be a great 
ornament to the landscape from whatever point it may be looked at. 

f Since this was first written, the natural beauty of this scene ha* 
been grievously impaired. 



40 



ISxaimone from amfilrotH*. 

Ambleside is a small market town, situate in the Vale of 
the Rothay, one mile north of Windermere. Good accommo* 
dations are here provided for Tourists at the Salutation Hotel 
(Stalker), and the Commercial Inn (Donaldson), as well as 
at private lodgings ; and, as the town is in the neighbourhood 
of many very interesting excursions, Visitors to the Lakes 
usually make it their head-quarters for some time. Aroblesi 
was formerly a Roman station (the Dictis of the Notitia), and 
some slight traces of a fortress arc perceptible in a field at the 
head of Windermere, where fragments of tcsselated pavement, 
urns, and other Roman relics have been dug up. This Station 
was established, undoubtedly, as a check upon the pass of Kirk- 
stone, Dunmail-raise, and of Hardknott and Wrynosc. On the 
margin of Rydal Lake, a coin of Trajan 

VALES OF GREAT AND LITTLE LAKGDALS. 

11 

13 

17 

18 

This is a charming excursion. From km go to 

Clappersgate, where cross the Brathay, and proeeed with the 
river on the right, and the chapel on the left hand, : 
hamlet of Skelwith-fold. When the bow tssed, turn, 

before you descend the hill, through a gal 
from a rocky point is a fine view of the Brathay River. 
Pikes, &c. ; thence to Colwith-force : and, after rough 

a gate, a short distance from Little Langdale Tan 
ancient road from Kendal to Whitehaven t 
the one to be pursued turns to the right. Lea r the 

Common to Blea Tarn. The scene in which this small pii 
water lies, suggested to the Author the follow ption 

(given in his Poem of the Excursion), supposing th. 
to look down upon it, not from the road, but I 
elevated sides. 



1 Clappersgate 


... 1 


1J Li>l 


H Guide Post 


• n 




£ Skelwith Fold 


... 3 


LI Hi-h < : 


1 Colwith Bridge 

1\ Little Langdale Tarn 


. 4 


| Fir>t siLT>it of G«M 
2 Pel 

Lafc 


... 5£ 


2\ Blea Tarn 


• H 


2 Wall End 




1 Ambleside 



GREAT AND LITTLE LANGDALE. 41 

"Behold! 
Beneath our feet a little lowly Vale, 
A lowly Vale, and yet uplifted high 
Among the mountains ; even as if the spot 
Had been, from eldest time, by wish of theirs, 
So placed, to be shut out from all the world ! 
Urn-iike it was in shape, deep as an Urn ; 
"With rocks encompassed, save that to the South 
Was one small opening, where a heath-clad ridge 
Supplied a boundary less abrupt and close ; 
A quiet treeless nook,* with two green fields, 
A liquid pool that glittered in the sun, 
And one bare Dwelling ; one Abode, no more ! 
It seemed the home of poverty and toil, 
Though not of want : the little fields, made green 
By husbandry of many thrifty years, 
Paid cheerful tribute to the moorland House. 
— There crows the Cock, single in his domain : 
The small birds find in Bpring no thicket there 
To shroud them ; only from the neighbouring Vales 
The Cuckoo, straggling np to the hill tops, 
Shouteth faint tidings of some gladder pi; 

At this point the Langdale Pikes appear in a new and noble 
aspect; indeed, "a more dignified and impressive assemblage 
of mountain lines scarcely exists in the north of England.'' The 
highest Pike, called Harrison Stickle, is perhaps about three 
miles from the eye, but Stickle Pike, receding towards the Pass 
of the Stake into Borrowdale, is more than four. The towering 
rock between the two Pikes is called Gimmer Crag. After 
leaving the Tarn the road descends rapidly to Wall End at the 
head of Great Langdale, f from whence it is recommended to 
proceed to Millbeck, a farm house across the meadows, a mile 
distant, and see Dungeon Gill. The Gill, having its source 
between the Pikes, passes through a deep cleft of the mountain, 
into the cheeks of which a " mighty block hath fallen" from 
the neighbouring heights, and got so wedged in as to form a 
grotesque natural arch. Langdale Pikes may be conveniently- 
ascended from Millbeck, where a guide may be obtained. 

* No longer strictly applicable, on account of recent plantations. 

f The upper portion of the Vale of Langdale, which lies in the 
direction of the Stake Pass, is called Mickleden ; and that portion of 
the valley which stretches westward towards Bowfell and Crinkle 
Crags, bears the name of Oxendale. 

f 



42 EXCURSIONS FBOM AMBLESIDE. 

The best ascent is by a peat road from Millbeck to Stickle 
Tarn, a pretty circular piece of water, celebrated for its fine 
trout, reposing under the steep rocks of Pavey Ark, and thence 
to the top of the Pike called Harrison Stickle, whi 
feet in height. Although this Pike is inferior in elevation to 
many of the neighbouring mountains, the \iews from it are in- 
teresting and extensive, especially in lookir. the Vale of 
Great Langdale, towards Windermere, and over the open 
country, to the south and south-east. I Pike, 
which rises like a cone a little to the north, there is a fine 
of Skiddaw and the Vale of Bassenthwaite, : 
is seen but partially, and the latter not at all, from Harrison 
Stickle. Great Gable rears his head to t 
is a little nearer the eye, and Scawfell an: > are seen 
pre-eminent over the summit of Bow Ml. Crinkle Crasrs are a 
continuation of Bowfell on the south, the -"uth-west, 
looking over the lonely valley of Little Lanj 
Coniston mountains ; on the east are I 

and Grasmere, and on the mwtflifUl the EieliaUj forms 

a prominent feature in the Ian -back 

presents his front to the spectator in til- 
th e Pikes follow the road down Great Langdale, as far M 
Chapel, passing Thrang Crag Slat on the I 

those who take an interest in _:ht not to 

omit looking at. Near the Chapel there is a small ale-hoMe, 
from which it is five miles to Ambleside. The road is either 
by Loughrigg Tarn, or by the 1 and 

Grasmere Waters. The latter course is much to be prof 
The road strikes off on the left near 
up the hill the whole Vale of Langdale, with the 
Elterwater and Loughrigg Tarn, ai to advant.: 

view from High Close is exquisite, and Mr. 
is not a finer thing in Westmorland. ' A fen I tmdn d yarda 
from this point will bring you in sight i 
Grasmere, from whence, keeping 
Eydal on the left, it is two miles to Pelter Bridg 
wards one mile to Ambleside. This _ ot ber 

twenty-one miles (if Dungeon Gill and tin 
of which, though assisted by a carriage, it will be neccssa: 
walk from five to seven miles. 



AQUATIC EXCURSIONS. 43 

Stock Gill Force, half a mile from Ambleside, is a most 
interesting Waterfall if seen to advantage, " but its beauties" are 
in a great degree lost to the generality of visitors, who see the 
fall only from the footpath skirting the top of the bank, and 
almost perpendicularly from the bottom of the channel. The 
spectator looks down upon the scene rather than upwards or 
horizontally; his view of the water is likewise impeded by a 
redundancy of wood." Stock Gill rises in the Screes, on the 
side of Scandale fell, not far from Kirkstone, and, passing through 
Ambleside, joins the river Rothay a quarter of a mile below the 
town, about four miles from its source. This rivulet is among 
the finest of its kind in the Lake District. Access to the Water- 
fall may be had on application at the Salutation Hotel. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 
Pvrola media, St<><-k (iill Faroe. 

Imp \ I 

Poltpodii m PAeyojrth 'is. do. 

Btof i bra* fa teens, Amb leoide. 

Hv.mi:m)J-iiij.hm WUlC* 



LQUATIC EXCURSION 011 wiNDF.KMERE. 



... 1 

I Mouth of the river ... 1 1 

1 Pull WjU -A 

If L«>\v Wood Inn ij 

h Holme r.'int 4} 



wn to the month of tin 
rivet 

I Landing 

I Ambleside G] 



To the Landing at Water-head, where boats are moored, the 
walk is three-quarters of a mile. After taking boat, steer a 
short and attractive course bv ikirting the deeply-indented coast 
of Brathay into Pull Wyke, a pretty bay surrounded by rich 
woods, over which peep the Looghrigg and other elevated sum- 
mits ; and from Pull Wyke proceed by the grounds at Low 
Wray to the craggy and wooded promontory a little southward. 
From this place make for the Inn at Low Wood in a direct line, 
and see the Langdale and Rydal Mountains in two several and 
distinct arrangements, separated by the imposing heights of 
Loughrigg. Then return to the mouth of the Brathay by Holm 
Point, and up the river to the landing place. 

F 2 



44 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 



From AMBLESIDE to the FERRY, bv Water. 



1$ Mouth of the river by the 

Landing 1£ 

3 Belle Grange 4 j 

2\ Ferry-house, pasBing be- 
tween the Lily of the 

Valley Holmes 7 

\ From the Ferry-house to 
the Landing on Curwea'l 
Island 7 \ 



\\ Round the Is and 9} 

4$ From the Pier to the Head 

of the Lake 14 

\\ Ambleside 1 ">j 

1$ If the Station-In . 

: from the F 

_th of line 
will be \\ mile more ... 17 



The best situation on the untrj 

around is about ball' a mile from the junction of bay m ith 
the lake, tod partiei in an excursion d o wnwards will do well to 

pass in that direction, and from that point rather near to the 
Lancashire shore by which the high landl at 1 

Troutbeck, and Applethw aite, will ' ad- 
vantage, particularly Hill Bell and the neighbour 

In proceeding towardi the Ferry, thai pari ol l>etweeti 

the two lalandl called tlie Lily ol* the Will. \ ! I 
Statton-hooae about a mile from the eye, and as side-screen> I 
bold and wooded deration aboY« II - _ht, 

and Curwen'i [aland on the left, for: 

than tirst touch at the great l>laml, it will be more pleasant 
row direct for the lYrry-hoii*.', theBOS Watt I S and 

afterwardi retara to the Perry. I .-n'g 

Island should be fiaite eaving which the party : 

(townees, or return din ide. 

Bj a Tourist halting i in Amhloide, the Nook alao 

might be visited r Scandale- 

beckj which makea i prettj for the pencil, 

residenti of i aret at Ambleside, there arc delightful 

ramble- over every pari gg Fell and amo: _ 

enclosures on it» ddei i particularly about Longhrigg Tarn, and 
on its eastern side about Poi How ami the 'lining 

to the northw ards. A few out o( the main road are particularized 
in the following Tables : — 

From AMbi.rsnu:. under Longhrigg Foil, to GRASM: 

$ Rothai Bridge 

I Miller Bridge Cottage... 
[ Miller Bridge Stei 

f Fox Chvll ' 

| Palter Bridge 



1 







1 











. ... 41 




mere Church ... 


■ 




4 Ainbb H 


. ... n 



EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 45 



To LOUGHRIGG TARN, over Loughrigg Fell. 



$ Rothay Bridge 

1 Deviation from the Gras- 

mere road on the left 1£ 



J Loughrigg Tarn 3 

1 First sight of Grasmere ...4 

2 Pelter Bridge, keeping the 



1} First sight of Loughrigg I Lakes on the left ... 6 
Tarn 2-J | 1 Ambleside 7 

LOUGHRIGG TARN and GRASMERE. 

1 Clappersgate 1 I J The Oaks 3 

1£ Guide-post 2\ I 3 Grasmere Church 6 

\ Loughrigg Fold 2| | 4 Ambleside 10 

ELTERWATER. 

The foot of Elter water, either by Skelwith. Birdge or 
Loughrigg Fold, over Little Loughrigg, is 3£ miles from Am- 
side. Extensive Gunpowder Works are carrried on at Elter- 

ROUND KNOTT. 

If down the fields to the steps over the Rothay* — 

\ Miller Bridge Steps $ 

£ Deviation on the left ... 1 
$ Leaving theLoughriggTarD 
road on Ant ooanng to 

the runner 1J 



- Bound Knott 

| Down a green lane by Coat 

Hon to Pelter Bridge ... 2f 
1 Ambleside 3$ 



IVY CRAG. 



1 Clappersgate (turn to the 
ri^ r ht at a BOOM recently 
occupied bj Hr.Bofaiufon) 1 

\ First si^lit of the Coniston 
mountains 1J 



£ Opening at the top of the 

liill to Windermere ... l| 

\; Ivn Crag 3 

I linn U 

\ Pelter Bridge 4f 

1 Ambleside 5f 



Ivy Crag is an elevated rock on the south-east of Loughrigg 
Tarn. This walk, and the walk to round Knott, a little knoll 
above Fox Ghyll, are noticed by Mr. Green with more than his 
usual earnestness, and are recommended as the most delightful 
of the Loughrigg Excursions. 

VfANSFELL PIKE. 



£ Low Fold .} 


li WansfellPike ... . 


'S 


J Terrace Road under Straw- 


$ Waterfall Lane 


... H 


berry Bank 1 


1 Ambleside 


4* 


| Skelgiil 1} 






RYDAL WATERFALLS. 




1* Lower Fall 1£| 12 Ambleside 


q 


£ Higher Fall 2 







* This beautiful stream, the Rothay, has for a mile of its course 
above the bridge been irreparably disfigured lately by cutting oft' its 
windings, so as to give it all the formality of a straight-lined canal. 

f 3 



46 EXCURSIONS FROM AMBLESIDE. 



FAIRFIELD 

i Rydal 1 

1 k Turn on the right between 
Rydal Hall and Rydal 
Mount to Nab Scar ... 2£ 



2\ Fairfield 5 

4 Nook End Bridge over the 
High and Low Pikes ... 9 
£ Ambleside 9$ 



Fairfield is the high mountain closing on the north the 
domain of Rydal, with an elevation of 2950 feet — Commence 
the ascent to Fairfield at Rydal by the road between Rydal 
Hall and Rydal Mount, beyond which there is a green lane that 
leads to the Common, whence it is a steep and craggy climb to 
Nab Scar. From a certain point on Nab Scar there is an ex- 
quisite view commanding eight lakes : viz. Windermere, Blel- 
ham Tarn, Esthwaite Water, Rydal Water, Coniston Water, 
Elterwater, Grasmere Lake, and Easedale Tarn. The Tra- 
veller, if so inclined, may proceed to the top of Fairfield by 
following the ridge. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Juncus triglumis. — Fairfield. 
Luzula spicata. — Do. 



From AMBLESIDE to HA WES WATER, over High Street. 



3 Woundale 3 

3£ By Troutbeck Tongue to 
High Street, where Hays 
Water is seen on the left 6£ 



2\ Junction of High Street 
with Riggendale ; Blea 
Water on the right 9 

2 Chapel Hill 11 



To HA WES WATER, through Troutbeck and Kentmere. 

4 Troutbeck 4 | 3£ Nanbield 11 

3 £ Kentmere Church 7£ | 2\ Chapel Hill 13$ 

Hawes Water does not exceed three miles in length, and 

varies in width from half a mile to a quarter. It is seldom 

visited by Tourists, though the solemn grandeur of its rocks 

and mountains is exceedingly impressive. See p. 31. 

From AMBLESIDE to HAYS WATER. 

7 Low Hartshope 7 | 2 Return by Low Hartshope 11 

2 Hays Water Head 9 | 7 Ambleside 18 

From AMBLESIDE to ANGLE TARN. 

7 Low Hartshope 7 [ 1£ Low Hartshop 10 

1* Angle Tarn 8£ [ 7 Ambleside 17 

Hays Water and Angle Tarn are situated on the west side 
of High Street, and are celebrated for the fine trout with which 
they abound. 



EXCURSIONS FROM LOW WOOD INN. 



47 



3 Skelwith Bridge 3 

£ Turn on the left at the top 
of the hill between Skel- 
with and Colwith-Bridges 3£ 

1J Oxen Fell 4f 



YE WD ALE. 

i Hodge Close 5* 

If Shepherd's Bridge 7 

1£ Black Bull Inn, Coniston 8$- 

1 Water Head Inn 9£ 

8 Ambleside 17£ 



TILBERTHWAITE. 



7 Shepherd's Bridge, in Yew- 
dale 

1| Tilberthwaite 



1$ Little Lang dale 10 

5 Ambleside, over Colwith 

and Skelwith Bridges 15 



TILBERTHWAITE, returning by Elterwater Hall. 

7 Shepherd's Bridge, in Yew- I 2 Langdale Chapel, by Flet- 
dale 7 I cher's Wood and Elter- 

3 Little Langdale Road, by water Hall 12 

Tilberthwaite ... ... ... 10 | 5 Ambleside, by High Close, 

Grasmere, & Rydal Waters 17 



From AMBLESIDE round the Lake of WINDERMERE. 

1 Brathay Bridge 1 7 Newby Bridge 

4 High Wray 5 8 Bowness 

3 Ferry House 8 6 Ambleside 

From AMBLESIDE, round the Lake, by the Ferry Points. 

1 Brathay Bridge 1 I 2 Bowness... 

7 Ferry-house, by High Wray 
and Belle Grange 8 ] 

From AMBLESIDE by the Eastern Side of ESTHWAITE WATER 
and the Eastern Side of WINDERMERE. 

11 

.. ... ... 17 



5 Hawkshead 

2 Sawrey 

2 Ferry-house 



6 Ambleside .. 



2 Bowness 
6 Ambleside 



15 
23 
29 



10 
16 



LOW WOOD INN. 

From this inn, which has lately been much enlarged, all the 
above Excursions may be made with the same convenience as 
from Ambleside. 



\ Troutbeck road .. 
1 Low Wood 



WALK to SKELGILL from LOW WOOD 

\\ Low Fold \\ 

\\ Skelgill 2f 

\ Low Skelgill 3 

CIRCUIT from LOW WOOD by AMBLESIDE, KIRKSTONE, and 
TROUTBECK. 



3£ 



If Ambleside 

4 Guide-post on Kirkstone 



111 



4£ Troutbeck 
2 Low Wood 



10 
12 



48 AMBLESIDE TO PATTERDALE. 

WALK or HORSE-RIDE through TROUTBECK and APPLE- 
THWA1TE to BOWNESS, or back to LOW WOOD. 

9 Guide-post in Troutbeck 2 I 2£ Cook's House 5£ 

| The How, in Applethwaite 2| | 1$ Bowness 7 

If the return is from Cook's House to Low Wood, the round will be 
eight miles. 

These Excursions abound in delightful prospects, and the view 
from the top of the hill about a mile from the inn, on the Trout- 
beck road, is the finest of its kind amongst the Lakes. From 
this point the islands of Windermere are seen ' * almost all lying 
together in a cluster, below which all is loveliness and beauty- 
above, all majesty and grandeur." 



AMBLESIDE TO PATTERDALE. 

The distance from Ambleside to the Inn at Patterdale is ten 
miles, and the Pass of Kirkstone and the descent from it are very 
impressive ; but this vale, nevertheless, like the others, loses 
much of its effect by being entered from the head ; so that it is 
better to go from Keswick through Matterdale, and descend 
upon Gowbarrow Park ; you are thus brought at once upon a 
magnificent view of the two higher reaches of the lake. To 
such persons, however, as decide upon visiting Patterdale from 
Ambleside, the following information may be useful. — The road 
leaves Ambleside between the Church and the Free Grammar 
School, and ascends gradually for upwards of three miles to the 
summit of the mountain pass on Kirkstone, where a small public- 
house has recently been erected. The road here begins to de- 
scend, having that part of Scandale Fell called Screes, on the 
left, and on the right Colddale Fell. A large detached mass of 
rock, called, from its shape, Kirkstone, is seen on the left, near 
the top of the pass. On descending from Kirkstone towards 
Patterdale, a new and interesting scene appears. Through a 
vista, you have a pretty peep at Brotherswateb and the 
heights of Patterdale in the distance. The road runs close to 
Brotherswater, and then turns at right angles across the mea- 
dows, where it meets with another road from Hartsop Hall at 
Cowbridge. Between Cowbridge and the inn at Patterdale, 
the romantic valley of Deepdale runs up into the mountains on 
the left. At the right-angular turn of the road above mentioned, 
there is a bridle-road through the picturesque hamlet of Low 



AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK, 49 

Hartsop, along the side of Place Fell, which joins the main road 
again at Goldrill Bridge, a short distance from the Inn. The 
stream which flows through the hamlet of Low Hartsop, issues 
from the mountain tarn called Hays Water, situate on the 
western side of a ridge running up to High Street ; and, in wet 
weather, the stream from Angle Tarn forms a pretty waterfall 
down the craggy side of Placefell. 

The finest scenes on Ullswater lie between the Inn at Patter- 
dale and Lyulph's Tower, about four miles distant. The best 
way of seeing them is, to take a boat at the head of the lake, 
pass the islands called Cherry Holme and House Holme, and 
approach within sight of Stybarrow Crag. From House Holme, 
the views are exqusite in almost every direction. Proceed 
to Lyulph's Tower, an erection built by the late Duke of 
Norfolk for a pleasure-house, now the property of Mr. Howard, 
of Greystoke. It stands a little above the road in a part of Gow- 
barrow Park, and from the front of it are seen fine views of the 
lake. From Lyulph's Tower, a guide to Ara Force, about a 
quarter of a mile distant, may always be had. In returning to 
the Inn, it is advisable to row across the lake to a promontory at 
the foot of Placefell, and walk over the Point to Purse Bay, and 
thence by the farm of Blowick and Goldrill Bridge to the Inn. 
In this short walk, the magnificent scenery around the head of 
Ullswater is seen to the greatest advantage. See Ullswater. 



After having duly explored the beauties of Ambleside and the 
neighbourhood, the next Station the tourist should aim at is 
Keswick, which may be approached by various routes. The 
Direct Road is the only one that can be travelled over by car- 
riages, but the hardy pedesterian might select from the several 
routes hereafter pointed out which he will pursue. There is, 
however, a carriage road from Ambleside to Keswick by Wast 
Water, but the circuit is so extended that it is seldom adopted. 
This road is through Coniston, 8 miles — Broughton, 9 miles 
more — and over Birker Fell (a road somewhat rugged) by San- 
ton Bridge to Nether Wastdale, 17 miles. From Nether Wast- 
dale through Gosforth and Calder Bridge, thence over Coldfell 

to Lamplugh, and by Scale Hill to Keswick, 35 By Egremont, 

a better road, 37j miles — making altogether a circuit of 69 miles. 
If Whitehaven be included, the circuit would be 76 miles. 



oQ AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK DIRECT. 

AMBLESIDE to KESWICK Direct. 

1| Rydal 1^ I 4 Smallthw ait e Bridge 12J 

o\ Swan, Grasmere* 5 13 Castlerigg 15£ 

2 Dunmail Raise 7 11 Keswick 16^ 

1J Nag's Head, Wythburn... 8 J | 

A mile and a half from Ambleside the tourist reaches the 
romantic village of Rydal. On the right is seen, embosomed in 
wood, Rydal Hall, the residence of Lady le Fleming, in whose 
grounds two pretty water-falls are pointed out to every one, and 
may be seen on application at the Cottage near the Chapel. 
The upper fall is in a glen above the Hall, but the lower fall, 
which is the more beautiful, is seen from a summer-house in the 
pleasure-grounds. Rydal Chapel is a neat edifice, and was erect- 
ed and endowed at the expense of Lady le Fleming. Rydal 
Water is one of the smallest of the English Lakes, but certainly 
one of the most beautiful, from its woody islets and picturesque 
shores ; but it ought to be observed here, that Rydal-mere is no 
where seen to advantage from the main road. Fine views of it 
may be had from Rydal Park ; but these grounds, as well as 
those of Rydal Mount (Wm. Wordsworth, Esq.) and Ivy 
Cottage, now called Glen Rothay (Wm. Ball, Esq.) from 
which also it is viewed to advantage, are private. A foot-road 
passing behind Rydal Mount and under Nab Scar to Grasmere, 
is very favourable to views of the lake and the vale, looking 
back towards Ambleside. The horse-road, also, along the 
western side of the lake, under Loughrigg fell, as before men- 
tioned, does justice to the beauties of this small mere, of which 
the traveller who keeps the high road is not at all aware. 

About 200 yards beyond the last house on the Keswick side 
of Rydal village, the road is cut through a low wooded rock, 
called Thrang Crag. The top of it, which is only a few steps 
on the south side, aifords the best view of the vale which is to 
be had by a traveller who confines himself to the public road. 
, " Between Rydal and Grasmere the high road formerly ran 
winding among, and over a succession of knolls ; and being half 
hidden in its serpentine course, afforded a series of exquisite 
views, without deforming this lovely valley. But the steepness 
of the hills was ill suited to the convenience of increasing traffic, 
and about twelve years ago a new road was made, which runs 
close along the lower end of Grasmere, and is fenced from it by 



GRASMERE. 51 

a long, straight, odious stone wall, which offends the eye, and 
cuts the sweetest part of the landscape with its rectilinear 
deformity." 

The road skirts the margin of the lake, which is more than a 
mile in circumference and contains one bare green island, and 
presently reaches the village of Grasmere, which is beautifully 
situated a quarter of a mile from the high road, at the northern 
end of the lake. There are two small inns in the Vale of Gras- 
mere, one near the Church ( The Red Lion), the other ( The 
Swan) on the main road. From the former the valley may be 
more conveniently explored in every direction, and a mountain 
walk taken up Easedale to Easedale Tarn (2j miles), one of the 
finest tarns in the country, thence to Stickle Tarn and to the 
top of Langdale Pikes. See also the vale from Butterlip How, 
half a mile from the inn. * c It is the finest elevation of moderate 
height in the neighbourhood." Helm Crag may be visited from 
Grasmere. It is two miles to its summit, which is extremly 
rugged, and the ascent is somewhat difficult. The shattered 
apex of this mountain, as seen from certain points in the valley, 
bears a striking resemblance to a lion couchant, with a lamb 
lying at the end of his nose ; and to an old woman cowering.* 
Allan Bank, the residence of T. Dawson, Esq. is only a short 
distance out of the road leading from The Red Lion to Easdale, 
and from some places in the avenue, Helm Crag is a pleasing 

* Mr. Wordsworth, in one of his Poems on the Naming of Places, 
entitled " Joanna," thus introduces the old lady : — 

"When I had gazed perhaps two minutes' space, 
Joanna, looking in my eyes, beheld 
That ravishment of mine, and laughed aloud. 
The Rock, like something starting from a sleep, 
Took up the Lady's voice, and laughed again ; 
That ancient Woman seated on Helm-crag 
Was ready with her cavern ; Hammar-scar, 
And the tall Steep of Silver-how, sent forth 
A noise of laughter : southern Loughrigg heard, 
And Fairfield answered with a mountain tone ; 
Helvellyn far into the clear blue sky 
Carried the Lady's voice, old Skiddaw blew 
His speaking-trumpet ;— back out of the clouds 
Of Glaramara southward came the voice ; 
And Kirkstone tossed it from its misty head. 



52 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK DIRECT. 

object. Seat Sandal and all the lofty mountains south of it are 
seen towering over the pretty undulating Butterlip How and 
other elevations, and the whole Vale of Grasmere is hardly any 
where seen to greater advantage than from this point. 

In the Vale of Grasmere, on the middle of the three roads 
leading to Ambleside, and about a mile from the village, is a 
gate, which, time out of mind, has been called the Wishing 
Gate, from a belief that wishes formed or indulged there, have 
a favourable issue. 

A boat is kept by the Innkeeper, and this circular vale, in 
the solemnity of a fine evening, will make from the bosom of 
the lake, an impression that will be scarcely ever effaced. 

The steep and rugged road from Grasmere to Patterdale, by 
Grisedale Tarn, a distance of seven miles, turns off at a smithy 
four miles and three-quarters from Ambleside. 

Beyond the toll-bar the road begins to ascend the Pass of 
Dunmail Raise, between Steel Fell on the west, and Seat 
Sandal on the east. At the highest point, which is 720 feet 
above the sea, it passes a low cairn, or pile of stones, said to 
have been raised in the year 945, by the Anglo-Saxon King 
Edmund, after the defeat and death, on this spot, of Dunmail 
(or Dumhnail) the British King of Cumbria, and the consequent 
destruction of that kingdom. The river on the right of the Raise 
divides the counties, whence to Nag's Head, Wythburn, is one 
mile and a quarter. This is a convenient Station for ascending 
Helvellyn, and the mountain track approaching it may be ob- 
served from the door of the Inn. Another favourable point for 
commencing the ascent of this mountain is at the sixth milestone 
from Keswick. The ascent of Helvellyn will be hereafter 
noticed in the Patterdale Excursions. 

The direct road from Grasmere to Keswick does not (as has 
been observed of Rydal-mere) shew to advantage Thirlmere, 
or Wythburn Lake, with its surrounding mountains. By a tra- 
veller proceeding at leisure, a deviation ought to be made from 
the main road, when he has advanced a little beyond the sixth 
milestone short of Keswick, from which point there is a noble 
view of the Vale of Legberthwaite, with Blencathra (commonly 
called Saddleback) in front. Having previously enquired, at the 
Inn near Wythburn Chapel, the best way from this milestone to 
the bridge that divides the Lake, he must cross it, and proceed 



AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY THE STAKE. 



53 



with the lake on the right, to the hamlet a little beyond its termina- 
tion, and rejoin the main road upon Shoulthwaite Moss, about four 
miles from Keswick ; or, if on foot, the Tourist may follow the 
stream that issues from Thirlmere down the romantic Vale of 
Sr. John's, and so (enquiring the way at some cottage) to Kes- 
wick, by a circuit of little more than a mile. By following the 
direct road, and when about a mile from Keswick, at the top of 
Castlerigg Brow, " one of the richest mountain scenes is 
gradually unfolded that can be enjoyed from any of the carriage 
roads in the North of England." A more interesting tract of 
country is scarcely anywhere to be seen, than the road between 
Ambleside and Keswick, with the deviations that have been 

pointed out. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Hesperis matronalis. — Rivulets about Dale Head, Thirlmere. 
Saxifraga hypnoides. — Between Thirlmere and Keswick. 
Pencedanum Ostruthiurn. — By a brook from the north end of 
Thirlmere. 



From AMBLESIDE, through Grasmere, Easedale, Greenup, and 
Borrowdale, to KESWICK. 



4 Grasmere Church 4 

I Goody Bridge 4f 

| Thorneyhow 5| 

1 Far Easdale 6$ 

2 J Wythburn Dale Head ... 9 



£ Push forward to Greenup 

Dale Head ... 9£ 

3j Down Greenup vale to 

Stonethwaite 13 

7 Keswick 20 



Pursue the road, as before described, as far as Grasmere, from 
whence " the valley of Easedale runs far into the northern hills 
on the western side of Helm Crag. Near its mouth a stream 
flows from Easedale Tarn, and from the whiteness of the broken 
water is called Sour-milk Gill. Up this seldom-visited glen 
the foot traveller may pursue his way from Grasmere to Keswick, 
ascending by a steep and laborious climb to a narrow level tract 
of moor called Colddale fell ; after which he will descend into 
the Stonethwaite branch of Borrowdale, nor will he regret, 
though the way be longer and far more laborious, having ex- 
changed the high road for the freedom of the mountain-side." 

From AMBLESIDE, through Great Langdale, to the STAKE, and 
thence through Borrowdale, to KESWICK. 



5 Langdale Chapel 5 


4i 

*2 


Stonethwaite 


17 


2 LisleBridge, near Dungeon 


1 


Rosthwaite* 


... 18 


Gill 7 


1 


Bowder Stone ... 


19 


1£ Langdale Head 8 £ 


5 


Keswick , 


... 24 


4 Top of the Stake 12 J 









54 



AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HARDKNOTT, &C. 



The finest approach to Great Langdale is by pursuing the 
Keswick road to Pelter Bridge (one mile), which having 
crossed, pass on the side of the Rothay by Coat How to Rydal 
and Grasmere lakes, thence by High Close and Langdale 
Chapel to Lisle Bridge and Millbeck, which places have been 
before noticed in the Langdale Excursion. Ascending the 
Stake, the road is on the side of a turbulent stream, which 
dashes down into the valley of Langdale. Half a mile beyond 
the top of the Langdale Stake, begins the descent into Borrow- 
dale by the side of a river through the valley of Langstreth, 
where all is in a state of wildness and desolation. At the top 
of the Stake is a grand exhibition of the high summits of Bow 
Fell, Hanging Knotts, Scawfell Pikes, and Great Gable, and at 
a considerable distance is seen Skiddaw, partly intercepted by 
nearer mountains. Half way down the vale the road crosses 
the river, having, in the direction of Stonethwaite, a large and 
curious stone on the right, called Black Cap, above which is 
Sergeant Crag, and nearer Stonethwaite is the bold rocky 
elevation of Eagle Crag on the right. From Stonethwaite, the 
road to Keswick is by Rosthwaite, in Borrowdale, where there 
is a small public-house. Bowder Stone, Lowdore, and Barrow, 
will hereafter be described in the Keswick Excursions. 

From AMBLESIDE, over Wrvnose and Hardknott, to WAST 
WATER, thence by Sty Head "to KESWICK, or return to Amble- 
side by Sty Head Tarn through Langdale, or by Seathwaite, through 
Eskdale. 

| 5 Netherbeck Bridge 25 

1 Overbeck Bridge 26 

J Head of Wast Water ... 26£ 

1 Wastdale Head 27£ 

2 Sty Head 294 

12 Keswick by Bowder Stone 41 b 

From Sty Head to Amble- 
side, by Sty Head Tarn, 
SprinklingTarn, & Angle 
Tarn, an d thence through 
the Vale of Langdale, 16£ 
miles, making the round 46 

From Sty Head, by Sea- 
thwaite, and thence thro' 
Greenup and Eskdale, to 
Ambleside, 18§ miles, 
making the round ... 48i 



1 Clapper sgate 1 

2 Skelwith Bridge 3 

1 Colwith Bridge and Force 4 

2\ Fell Foot 6£ 

1£ Top of Wry nose 8 

2\ CockleyBeck 10J 

If Hardknott Castle Y2\ 

| Brotherilkeld 13 

\ Bridge over the river Esk 13J- 
2\ DalegarthHall and Stanley 

Gill 16 

1 Road on the left by Ulpha 

to Broughton 17 

3 Santon Bridge 20 

2 Strand's Public House ... 22 
1 From Santon bridge direct 

to Crook, at the foot of 
Wast Water, 3 miles 23 



This road, which is by Skelwith and Colwith Bridges, and 
through Little Langdale, has been described in the Langdale 



AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HABDKNOTT, &C. 55 

Excursion as far as the place where it diverges to Blea Tarn and 
Great Langdale, a distance of scarcely seven miles from Amble- 
side, p. 40. Hence the road is to Fell Foot, formerly a public- 
house, when this was the main road from Kendal to Whitehaven, 
a fact which those who now travel over it will find it hard to be- 
lieve. At the time we are speaking of, the only mode for the con- 
veyance of goods was on the backs of pack-horses, long trains of 
which were often to be seen traversing these hills. 5 ' At Fell 
Foot begins the ascent of Wrynose to the three Shire Stones, 
where the counties of Cumberland, Westmorland, and Lancas- 
ter unite on the top of the hill. Here the road enters Lancashire, 
having the stream which divides it from Cumberland, on the right, 
and descends, though not abruptly, upon Cockley Beck, only to 
cross the valley and climb another mountain no less high and 
difficult of ascent, called Hardknott, which separates Seathwaite 
from Eskdale. " The aspect of the upper part of the valley at 
Cockley Beck, where it is crossed by the mountain-road of which 
we have been speaking, is dreary. A tract of desolate hills, 
nurses of the Esk and Duddon, rises towards the north-west into 
the lofty range of Scawfell and BowfelL The head of Eskdale 
lies between these, the highest and the roughest mountains in 
the country ; and we might here fancy ourselves deep in the 
recesses even of the wilder parts of the Scottish Highlands. 
The precipices of Scawfell, and of the higher point of that 
great mountain, called The Pikes, tower darkly and awfully 
on the western side ; and even on the eastern, where Bowfell 
slopes dow r n more gently, the passage of the traveller must be 
slow and cautious. The assistance of an experienced guide in 
this wild and perplexing region is strongly recommended. No 
precipice, however, bars up the head of the dale, which rises 
gradually to the green ridge, which marks the water's source 
between Eskdale and Borrowdale. This height, itself a de- 
pression between Green End and that part of Bowfell called 
Hanging Knott, is called Esk Hause.f From it we look directly 
down the whole of Borrowdale, and command a view of Derwent- 
water, with its specks of islands, the whole closed by the 

* Bells were attached to the collar of the leading horse of the train, 
A collar of this kind may be seen in the Museum at Kendal . 
f Pronounced Ash Course by the dalesmen. 

G 2 



66 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HARDKNOTT, &C. 

pyramidal group of Skiddaw, which is here seen from head to 
foot, and to the greatest advantage. The outbreak of the river 
from this upland glen to the lower valley, some five or six miles 
from Esk Hause, forms a succession of falls and rapids for a 
considerable distance, fringed with birch and mountain-ash, the 
first signs of better soil and milder climate. These, in their 
varied combinations of rock and water, furnish ample studies for 
the artist or sketch er." 

" After crossing Cockley Beck, the Kendal and Whitehaven 
road begins to climb the side of Hardknott, and descends on the 
opposite side, with equal rapidity, down a still longer declivity, 
into Eskdale." 

Something more than half way down the hill, about 120 yards 
on the right of the road, are the remains of Hardknott Castle, 
mentioned in p. 17, from whence there is a magnificent view of 
Scawfell and the Pikes, supported by the immense buttresses 
rising from the Esk. At the foot of the hill there is a very 
extensive sheep-farm on the right called Brotherilkeld, and one 
on the left called Toes. " Proceeding down the valley, Birker 
Force is seen dashing over the rocks on the left, and about two 
miles from the foot of the hill we come to a public-house at Bout ; 
within a mile of which is situated a very fine waterfall called 
Stanley Gill, far up a deep, narrow, and thickly- wooded ravine. 
The stream is small, and in height the fall is not remarkable ; 
but in the picturesque character of its accompaniments it is in- 
ferior to none of those that are better known in the country. " 
The road to this w r aterfall turns off on the left at the village 
school, and a guide to the fall may be had at Dalegarth Hall, a 
farm-house close at hand. — [See Note, p. 17.] From the ham- 
let of Bout the main road should be followed nearly to Santon 
Bridge, where it turns off to the right to the Strands at Nether 
Wastdale, a distance of two miles and a half, where there are 
two small inns- There is a nearer cut to the Strands, for pe- 
destrians, by a foot road through Mitredale, which strikes across 
the hill on the right, a little before reaching Santon Bridge. 

From Bout there is a rough mountain road which traverses the 
moor to Wastdale Head, passing a cheerless sheet of water called 
Burnmoor Tarn, between Scawfell and the Screes. " Near the 
way-side the stream which runs down to Bout forms a cascade, 
bare and without enclosing precipices, yet possessing a charac- 



AMBLEsiDE tO KESWICK BY HARDKNO'TT, &C. 67 

ter of grandeur, at all events when swollen by recent rains. 
The path leads betwixt Scawfell and the Screes, and then de* 
scends down a steep peat-track into Upper Wastdale, a little 
above the lake." From Wastdale Head the road is on the 
western side of Wast water to the Strands. The eastern side of 
the lake is skirted by the Screes, and is not only difficult but 
dangerous to attempt, from the loose and crumbling nature of 
the materials of which it is composed. Tourists tarrying here 
for a day or two will find many pleasant excursions in the neigh- 
bourhood, and from a little hill called Latterbarrow is a good 
general view of the surrounding country ; but from a hill by the 
Gosforth road, near the inn, is the best general view of the 
mountains. From Latterbarrow the lake can be seen, but Scaw- 
fell and the Pikes are shut out from this point of view.— [See 
Plate I. of Sketches of the Mountains.'] 

Calder Abbey, a small but beautiful ruin, is eight miles from 
the Strands, but this place is more generally visited in going 
from Wastdale by Ennerdale Water, Lowes Water, and Scale 
Hill to Keswick. 

" There is a simplicity and severity about Wast Water not 
to be found in any of its neighbour lakes, except perhaps that of 
Ennerdale, which is equally destitute of the cheerfulness im- 
parted by cultivation, but inferior in the height and ruggedness 
of its mountain boundaries." It is three miles long, half a mile 
broad, and forty-five fathoms in depth, being deeper than any 
of the other lakes. <( Within some half an hour's walk from 
Strands is a remarkable spot called Haul-gill, or else Hollow- 
gilt. It is a deep ravine at the south-west foot of the Screes, 
among granite rocks, which, by the decomposition of their fel- 
spar, have been wasted into abrupt peaks and precipices — a sort 
of miniature mimicry of the aiguilles of Chamouni. This is one 
of the most curious and striking things in the whole district ; it 
is a good place for ascending the Screes from Nether Wastdale 
(as the valley below the lake is called) for those who have strong 
nerves. There is a very beautiful vein of spicular iron ore here ; 
also some fine haematite." 

On the way from the Strands by Gale and Crookhead Cot- 
tages, the residences of the Messrs. Rawson, which the tourist 
must now pursue on his road to Keswick by Sty Head, the Screes 
are occasionally in view, from whence the Great Gable is seen 

q 3 



58 AMBLESIDE TO KESWICK BY HARDKNOTT, &C. 

in the vista formed by Middle Fell, Yewbarrow, and Kirkfell 
on the left, and on the right by Lingmell and the north end of 
the Screes. As you advance toward the head of the lake the 
pastoral valley of Bowderdale is on the left, stretching up to- 
wards the Haycocks. From hence Scawfell is a commanding 
object, and the Pikes begin to shew their separation by the gra- 
dual development of the aperture of Mickle Door, which divides 
their summits. 

From Wastdale Head, a sequestered hamlet, with a chapel,* 
but no inn,f you commence a precipitous ascent to Sty Head, the 
highest Pass in the district, having the huge rocks of Great 
Gable on the left, and those of Lingmell Crag on the right ; in 
front, Great End. Lingmell Crag is succeeded by Broad Crag, 
and the Pikes tower majestically over the whole. From Sty 
Head the road descends by a horse-track through Seathwaite 
and Borrowdale to Keswick, a distance of twelve miles. At 
Seathwaite, three miles and a half from Sty Head, the tourist, 
should he require refreshment, will meet with good and homely 
fare at Mrs. Dixon's hospitable board. The objects on this 
road will be more particularly noticed hereafter, in the walk to 
Sty Head from Keswick. From Sty Head the road to Amble- 
side is either by leaving Sprinkling Tarn on the left and Angle 
Tarn on the right hand, and proceeding through Langdale ; or, 
through Borrowdale and Stonethwaite, thence over Greenup 
through Eskdale and Grasmere. 

From the hamlet of Wastdale Head there is a rough foot- 
road through the valley of Mosedale, which stretches west- 
ward between the mountains of Kirkfell and Yewbarrow, into 
Gillerthwaite at the head of Ennerdale Dale, and thence by the 
Pass of Scarp-gap to Gatesgarth at the head of Buttermere. 
Having gained the head of Mosedale the road crosses a hollow 
on the right between Kirkfell and the Pillar, and descends ra- 
pidly with the stream on the right into Gillerthwaite, which is 

* This chapel is perhaps the humblest specimen of ecclesiastical ar- 
chitecture in the kingdom. The edifice contains eight pews, and is 
lighted with three small windows — one at the eastern end and one on 
each side of the building. Beside these, the Clergyman has the advan- 
tage of a sky-light immediately over the pulpit ! 

f Tourists can be accommodated with refreshments at Ritson's. ■ 
clean and comfortable farm-house. 



KESWICK. 59 

closed in at the head by Kirkfell and Great Gable. On the op- 
posite side of the valley, High Stile and Red Pike separate it 
from Buttermere. The small stream called the Liza is crossed 
at the sheep-fold and must be followed downwards for a short 
space, where an indistinct path over a second hollow, between the 
Haystacks and High Crag, called Scarf Gap, must be pursued, 
which brings the traveller to Gatesgarth, at the head of Butter- 
mere. This route from the Strands to Buttermere, comprises a 
great variety of scenery, and is perhaps one of the finest moun- 
tain walks in the district. As the path is ill-marked in many 
places, it would be prudent to take a guide. In the Autumn of 
1842 an inexperienced tourist undertook this route, and started 
from Wastdale Head without a guide. After wandering about 
for some time, he missed the road, and, instead of getting into 
Buttermere by the Pass of Scarf Gap, he took the deep ravine 
between Kirkfell and the Gable, and arrived (without finding 
out his mistake) at the precise point from which he had started, 
having made a circuit of many miles ! 

It may be observed that the ascent of Scawfell may be made 
with less exertion and fatigue from the Strands than from any 
other Station. A boat may be taken to the head of the lake, 
where the ascent commences at once upon Lingmell, and, 
with a guide to point out the way, the distance to the summit is 
about three miles, and may be accomplished in an hour and a 
half by active pedestrians. A remarkable gill, called Peasgill, 
situate on the north-west side of Lingmell, might be visited in 
the descent. The ascent of Scawfell from Borrowdale will be 
hereafter more fully noticed in the Keswick Excursions. 



KESWICK. 
Keswick is a small market-town of neat appearance, delight- 
fully situated near the foot of Derwentwater. Tourists gene- 
rally make Keswick their head-quarters for a time, and are here 
provided with good accommodation and the requisites for their 
excursions. The principal manufactures of Keswick consist of 
black-lead pencils, coarse woollens, flannels, &c. The mineral 
black-lead (Plumbago) of which pencils are manufactured, is found 
in the mines of Borrowdale, and although these mines are in the 
vicinity of Keswick, the pencil-makers are obliged to purchase 



60 DERWENT WATER. 

all their materials at the Company's warehouse in London, 
whither it is sent from the mines in casks and exposed for sale 
only on the first Monday in every month. There are in Kes- 
wick two Museums, illustrating, in addition to many foreign 
curiosities, the natural history and mineral productions of the 
surrounding country. At each of these the visitor can purchase 
geological specimens from the rocks of the neighbourhood. An 
accurate Model of the Lake District, ingeniously constructed by 
Mr. Flintoft, is also exhibited here in the summer season, and is 
well worth a careful examination. A new Church was recently 
built at the south end of the town by the late John Marshall, Esq., 
the purchaser of the estates in this vale which belonged to Green- 
wich Hospital. A Parsonage and School-house have since his 
decease been added by the family of Mr. Marshall, of Hallsteads. 
The Church is an elegant structure, delightfully situated on a 
gentle eminence, from which an extensive panoramic view of the 
surrounding country may be had. The Parish Church, called 
Crosthwaite Church, is a mile from the town, in the opposite 
direction. Inns — Royal Oak and Queens Head. 

Derwent Water is upwards of three miles in length and a 
mile and a half in its greatest breadth. It is adorned by several 
richly-wooded islands, amongst which are Lord's Island, St. 
Herbert's Island, Vicar's Island, and Ramps Holme- Lord's 
Island, the largest in the lake, situated perhaps a hundred yards 
from the shore, under Wallow Crag, was the strong-hold of the 
powerful family of the Ratcliftes, Earls of Derwent Water, 
whose possessions, it need hardly be said, were forfeited after 
the Rebellion of 1715, and transferred to Greenwich Hospital. 
On St. Herbert's Island are the remains of a Hermitage, said to 
have been fixed here by St. Herbert, the contemporary and 
friend of St. Cuthbert, in the seventh century. There is also 
on this lake a Floating Island, which is generally under water, 
but it occasionally rises to the surface for a short time, when it 
again sinks. The cause of this phenomenon has not been very 
clearly explained. The most probable supposition is, that the 
mass is buoyed up, being swollen by gas produced by de- 
composed vegetable matter. On piercing it with a boat-hook, 
gas (carburetted hydrogen and azote) issues in abundance. 
The last appearance of this island was in the summer of 184 2. 
The scenery of Derwent Water is distinguished for its wild sub- 
limity and magnificence. 



VALE OF KESWICK. 61 

The Vale of Keswick stretches, without winding, nearly North 
and South, from the head of Derwent Water to the foot of 
Bassenthwaite Lake. It communicates with Borrowdale on the 
South ; with the river Greta, and Thirlmere, on the East, with 
which the traveller has become acquainted on his way from 
Ambleside ; and with the Vale of Newlands on the West — 
which last vale he may pass through in going to, or returning 
from, Buttermere. The best views of Keswick Lake are from 
Crow Park ; Friar's Crag ; the Stable-field, close by ; the Vicar- 
age ; and from various points in taking the circuit of the lake. 
More distant and perhaps fully as interesting views, are from the 
side of Latrigg, from Ormathwaite, and thence along the road 
at the foot of Skiddaw towards Bassenthwaite, for about a quar- 
ter of a mile. There are fine bird's-eye views from the Castle- 
hill ; from Ashness, on the road to Watendlath ; and by follow- 
ing the Watendlath stream down towards the cataract of Lodore. 
This lake also, if the weather be fine, ought to be circumnavi- 
gated. There are good views along the western side of Bas- 
senthwaite Lake, and from Armathwaite at its foot ; but the 
eastern side from the high road has little to recommend it. The 
traveller from Carlisle, approaching by way of Ireby, has, from 
the old road on the top of Bassenthwaite-hause, much the most 
striking view of the Plain and Lake of Bassenthwaite, flanked 
by Skiddaw, and terminated by Wallow Crag on the south-east 
of Derwent Lake ; the same road commands an extensive view 
of Solway Frith and the Scotch Mountains. They who take the 
circuit of Derwent Lake, may at the same time include Bor- 
rowdale, going as far as Bowder-stone, or Rosthwaite. Bor- 
rowdale is also conveniently seen on the way to Wastdale over 
Sty Head ; or, to Buttermere, b} r Seatoller and Honister Crag ; 
or, going over the Stake, through Langdale, to Ambleside. 
Buttermere may be visited by a shorter way through Newlands, 
but though the descent upon the vale of Buttermere, by this 
approach, is very striking, as it also is to one entering by the 
head of the vale, under Honister Crag, yet, after all, the best 
entrance from Keswick is from the lower part of the vale, over 
Whinlatter to Scale Hill, where there is a roomy Inn, with very 
good accommodation. 



62 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES NEAR KESWICK. 

Lepidium Smithii. — Near Lodore. 

Bartramia arcuata. — do. 

Thalictrum majus. — do. 

Silene maritima. — On Derwentwater, between Keswick and Lodore. 

Circjea alpina. — On the margins of Derwentwater. 

Mentha rotundifolia. — Between Lodore and Bowder Stone. 

Geranium phceum. — Keswick. 

pyrenaicum. — do. 

Teesdalia nudicaulis. — Aronnd Derwentwater. 

Cicuta virosa. — About Keswick. 

Rosa gracilis. — Whinlatter. 

Viola lutea. — Hills about Keswick. 

Utricularia intermedia. — Ditch at the foot of Derwentwater. 

Littorella lacustris — About Derwentwater. 

Asa rum europceum. — About Keswick. 

Orchis ustulata. — do. 

Allium oleraceum. — Borders of Derwentwater. 

JuKCUsjiUformis. — Foot of do. 

Convallaria multiflora. — Castlehead Wood, near Keswick. 



lExmmcm* from lir$unrfc. 

CASTLE HEAD. 
Castle Head, or Castlet, as it is called by the inhabitants, 
is considered the best Station in the neighbourhood (of easy ac- 
cess) for a bird's-eye view of the lake and surrounding moun- 
tains, and has consequently been selected for our Diagram. 
[See Plate No. 2.] Castle Head is approached by a good foot- 
path, which strikes out of the Borrowdale road half a mile from 
Keswick, and leads by a winding ascent to the summit of the 
hill. 



FRIAR'S CRAG 
Is a rocky promontory which stretches out into the lake about 
one mile from Keswick, and, being the favourite promenade of 
the residents, is readily pointed out to strangers. From this 
Station nearly the whole circumference of the lake is viewed. 
After much rain the waters of Lodore may not only be seen but 
heard from Friar's Crag, and in the stillness of night the roar of 
this, combined with the murmur of other distant cataracts, is 
both solemn and soothing:. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 



63 



General AQUATIC EXCURSION on DERWENT WATER. 

\ Walk from Keswick to 

the Strand ... 

i Friar's Crag 

\ Lord's Island 

J Stable Hills 

\ Broom Hill 

J Barrow Landing Place , 
I Floating Island 

Parties navigating the lake for the purpose of seeing its beau- 
ties, would do well to instruct the boatman to follow the direc- 
tions pointed out in the above Table. 





I Month of the river ... . 


.. 3£ 


\ 


1£ St. Herbert's Island 


4| 


1 


| Water End Bay, with a 




u 


little walking 


.. 5i 


n 


1+ Derwent Isle... ... 


6J 


H 


^ Strand's Piers 


.. 7 


2* 


£ Keswick ... 


n 


H 







I Return to Grange 
4£ Portinscale 

II Keswick 



6 

12 



To BORROWDALE and round DERWENT WATER. 

2 Barrow-house and Cascade 2 

1 Lodore* Waterfall ... 3 

1 Grange 4 

1 Bowder Stone 5 

The scenes observable on this Excursion are viewed to the 
greatest advantage by commencing on the eastern, or Borrow- 
dale road, having on the left Castle Head, and the broad fronts 
of Wallow Crag and Falcon Crag. A deep cleft in the face of 
Wallow Crag is visible from the road, which bears the name of the 
Lady's Rake, from the circumstance, it is said, of the Countess 
of Derwentwater having made her escape up this ravine when 
intelligence of her husband's arrest reached her. Two miles 
from Keswick is Barrow House, the seat of Joseph Pocklington 
Senhouse, Esq. It is surrounded by fine old trees, and has 
within the grounds a pretty cascade, which may be seen on ap- 
plication at the lodge. A mile more will bring the traveller to 
the celebrated" Fall of Lodore, which lies immediately at the 
back of the premises belonging to the inn. After incessant 
jains this Waterfall, with its accompaniments, is a noble object, 
but unfortunately for those who visit the Lakes, not one in a 
hundred sees it at such a time. The stream falls through a 
chasm between the two towering perpendicular rocks of Gowdar 
Crag upon the left, and Shepherd *s Crag upon the right. These 
cliffs are most beautifully enriched with oak, ash, and birch 
trees, which fantastically impend from rocks where vegetation 
would seem almost impossible. The height of the fall is about 
150 feet. Dr. Southey, the late Poet Laureate, has noticed 
this interesting spot in the following lines : — 



64 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

How does the water come down at Lodore? 

Here it comes sparkling, 

And there it lies darkling ; 

Here smoking and frothing, 

Its tumult and wrath in. 
It hastens along, conflictingly strong, 
Now striking and raging, as if a war waging, 
In caverns and rocks among. 

liising and leaping, 

Sinking and creeping, 

Swelling and flinging, 

Showering and springing, 

Eddying and whisking, 

Spouting and frisking, 

Turning and twisting 

Around and around, 

Collecting, disjecting, 

With endless rebound, 

Smiting and fighting, 

A sight to delight in, 

Confounding, astounding, 
Dizzying and deafening the ear with its sound. 

Receding and speeding, 
And shocking and rocking, 
And darting and parting, 
And threading and spreading, 

And whizzing and hissing, 
And dripping and skipping, 
And whitening and brighteni 
And quivering and shivering, 
And hitting and splitting, 
And shining and twining, 
And rattling and battling. 
And shaking and quaking, 
And pouring and roaring, 
And waving and raving, 
And tossing and crossing. 
And flowing and glowing, 
And running and stunning. 
And hurrying and skurrying. 
And glitttering and flittering, 
And gathering and feathering. 
And dinning and spinning, 
And foaming and roaming, 
And dropping and hopping, 
And working and jerking. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 65 

And guggling and struggling, 
And heaving and cleaving, 
And thundering and floundering. 
And falling and brawling and sprawling, 
And driving and riving and striving, 
And sprinkling and twinkling and wrinkling, 
And sounding and bounding and rounding. 
And bubbling and troubling and doubling, 
Dividing and gliding and sliding, 
And grumbling and mumbling and tumbling, 
And clattering and battering and shattering, 
And gleaming and streaming and steaming and beaming, 
And rushing and flushing and gushing and brushing, 
And flapping and sapping and clapping and slapping, 
And curling and whirling and purling and twirling, 
Retreating and meeting and beating and sheeting, 
Delaying and straying and playing and spraying, 
Advancing and prancing and glancing and dancing, 
Recoiling, turmoiling, and boiling and toiling, 
And thumping and bumping and jumping and plumping, 
And dashing and flashing and splashing and clashing, 
And so never ending, but always descending, 
Sounds and motions for ever and ever are blending, 
All at once and all o'er, with a mighty uproar — 
Arid this way the water comes down at Lodore. 

At Lodore, in still weather, an extremely fine echo is to be 
heard ; and a cannon is kept at the Inn to be discharged for 
the gratification of strangers. A mile from Lodore is the vill- 
age of Grange, where there is a bridge that crosses the Derwent. 
Should the Tourist wish to see Bowder Stone, the road into 
Borrowdale must be kept for one mile further. This Stone is of 
prodigious bulk, and lies like a ship upon its keel. It is 62 feet 
long and 36 feet high ; its circumference is 84 feet, and it 
weighs about 1771 tons. Mr. Houseman thinks that ** this 
massive body has, in some former age, probably by some great 
convulsion of nature, been detached from the rock above," and 
other writers agree with him in this conjecture. " That it 
should stop in this position after the violence of its motion in its 
descent from the mountain, is surprising, and to place it in its 
present position, or even to move it by any power of art, seems 
utterly impossible." From this point a fine view of the upper 
part of Borrowdale is obtained, with the village of Rosthwaite 
and Castle Crag on the right, Eagle Crag and Glaramara in 



66 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 



front, and Scawfell Pikes in the extreme distance. Returning 
to Grange-bridge, cross it, and pass through the village of 
Grange to the hamlet of Manesty, near which place is a 
medicinal spring. Proceeding at a considerable height along 
the open side of Cat Bells, which commands one of the best 
views of the lake and valley, and soon crossing the broad open- 
ing of Newlands, the road enters the village of Portinscale, 
from which place it is one mile and a half to Keswick. 



WATENDLATH. 



11 Watendlath 5 

2 Bosthwaite 7 

6 Keswick, by Bowder Stone 

and Lodore 13 



2 Over Barrow Common ... 2 
£ Ashness Bridge 2\ 

1| Wooden Bridge between 
High Lodore and Wa- 
tendlath 3J 

The valley of Watendlath is interesting for its seclusion and 
and loneliness, and the primitive character of its inhabitants. 
It runs parallel with the Vale of Borrowdale on the east, and is 
not easily accessible except on foot or horseback. The stream 
which forms the Waterfall of Lodore issues from a beautiful 
little circular lake situated in this upland valley. The road 
thither from Keswick turns from the road to Borrowdale beyond 
Wallow Crag, and passes just behind Barrow House. A pretty 
rustic bridge crosses the stream where it issues from the tarn, 
and leads over the Borowdalc fells to Rosthwaite, a little 
above Bowder Stone. " This is a very pleasant morning's ride 
from Keswick ; it may be varied on foot by turning to the left 
instead of the right at Watendlath, and crossing the Wyth- 
burn fells to Thirlmere, distant about four miles from Wa- 
tendlath, over rough, heathery, trackless hills, which, on a 
fine day, especially when the heath is in blossom, form a wild 
and delightful walk." From Thirlmere the road to Keswick has 
been noticed in the direct route from Ambleside to Keswick, 
p. 52. 

Watendlath may also be visited on foot by High Lodore. 
The road turns off at the first house beyond the inn, and is very 
steep till the stream is gained. A deviation to the left will 
presently unfold a truly magnificent view of the lake and the 
Skiddaw range through the deep chasm of the waterfall. From 
this place it is half a mile to the wooden bridge before alluded to. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 67 

BOTANICAL NOTICE— WATENDLATH. 

Habenaria albida. — Above Watendlath Tarn. 



VALE OF ST. JOHN. 

From Keswick through the secluded Vale of St. John is an 
interesting excursion of about thirteen miles. A visit to the 
Druids' Temple may be included in this walk by pursuing the 
old road to Penrith, which strikes off to the right about a 
quarter of a mile from the toll-bar. The Circle is a mile and 
three-quarters from Keswick, and will be found in a field on the 
right of the road, and just on the crown of the hill, whence 
there is a commanding view of Saddleback, Skiddaw, Helvellyn, 
and many of the highest mountains in Cumberland. The stones 
that form this Temple are forty-eight in number, describing a 
circle of near a hundred feet in diameter. Most of these stones 
are a species of granite, and all of them varying in form and 
size. On the eastern side of this monument there is a small 
inclosure formed within the circle by ten stones, making an 
oblong square, seven paces in length and three in width, which 
recess Mr, Pennant supposes to have been allotted to the priests, 
a sort of holy place, where they met, separated from the vulgar, 
to perform their rights and divinations, or to sit in council to 
determine on controversies, or for the trial of criminals. Within 
a short distance from Threlkeld, four miles from Keswick, a 
road branches, off to the right to the Vale of St. John, " a very 
narrow dell, hemmed in by mountains, through which a small 
brook makes many meanderings, washing little inclosures of 
grass-ground which stretch up the rising of the hills. A nearer 
bridle-road into the vale leaves the Penrith road at the third 
milestone. In the widest part of the dale you are struck with 
the appearance of an ancient ruined castle, which seems to stand 
upon the summit of a little mount, the mountains around forming 
an amphitheatre. * * * As you draw near, it changes its 
figure, and proves no other than a shaken massive pile of rocks 
which stand in the midst of this little vale, disunited from the 
adjoining mountains, and have so much the real form and re- 
semblance of a castle, that they bear the name of the Castle 

h % 



£8 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

Rocks of St. John."* This is the scene of Sir Walter Scott's 
Poem of the Bridal of Triermain. The Tourist, after leaving 
the vale, enters the high road from Ambleside to Keswick four 
miles and a half from the latter place, which road he must pursue 
in returning to his inn. 



KESWICK to STY HEAD. 



4 Grange Bridge 4 

1 Bowder Stone 5 

1 Rosthwaite 6 

£ Burthwaite Bridge 6j 

\ Strand's Bridge 7 

\ Seatoller Bridge 1\ 

\ 'Seathwaite Bridge 8 



\ Seathwaite, which is op- 
posite the Black Lead 

Mines 8$ 

1 Stocklev Bridge 9* 

If Stv Head Tarn Hi 

| Sty Head 12 

12 Back to Keswick ... 



This road, as far as Bowder Stone, has already been noticed. 
A little beyond Bowder Stone, in the gorge of Borrowdale, rises 
a high and nearly detached rock called Castle Crag, the site of 
an ancient fortification, supposed to be of Roman origin, and to 
have been used to guard the Pass and secure the treasures con- 
tained in the bosom of these mountains. The Saxons, and, 
after them, the Furness monks, maintained the fort for the same 
purpose. Ail Borrowdale was given to the monks of Furness, 
probably by one of the Derwcnt family, and Adam de Dcrw cut- 
water gave them free ingress and egress through all his lands. 
The Grange was the place where they laid op their grain and 
their tithe, and also the salt they made at the Sail Spring, of 
which works there are still some vet matting below 

Grange. From the summit of this rock the views are so 
extensive and pleasing that they ought not to be omitted. t 
"Beyond the hamlet of Rosthwaite (where there is a small 
public-house, the last in the valley) six miles from Keswick, the 
valley divides into two branches, that to the left being called 
Stonethwaite, and that on the right Seathwaite. Stonetlr 
is subdivided into two branches, of which the eastern, called 
Greenup, leads into the fells towards the head of Easedale, and 
so communicates with Grasmere ; while the Langstreth branch 
turns south, and communicates with Longdate by the Pas- of 
the Stake. On entering Stonethwaite, Eagle Crag is a pro- 

* Hutchinson. f West's Antiquities of Furness 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 69 

minent object. Following the valley of Seathwaite, which is the 
principal vale, we come, two miles from Rosthwaite, to a large 
substantial farm-house, called Seatoller, near which a rough moun- 
tain road diverges to the right, and, passing under Honister 
Crag, descends upon Buttermere. A mile beyond Seatoller 
the Black-lead (or as it is provincially termed ' Wad ') mine 
indicates its position, high on the hill-side, by those unsightly 
heaps of rubbish which always attend mining operations. Under 
the mine, and rather nearer to Seatoller, a dark spot is seen in 
the copse-wood, which thus far clothes the hill. These are the 
celebrated Borrowdale Yews, four in number, besides some 
smaller ones. Among them one is prominent, which, being in the 
vigour of its age, and undecayed, ranks among the finest speci- 
mens of its kind in England.* The Lor ton Yew is larger, and 
that in Patterdale Church-yard may have equalled or exceeded 
this in size, but they have lost the mighty limbs and dark um- 
brageous foliage, contrasting so well with the rich chesnut- 
coloured trunk, which are here still to be seen in mature perfec- 
tion. Mr. Wordsworth, after commemorating that of Lorton, 
continues, 

Worthier still of note 
Are those fraternal Four of Borrowdale, 
Join'd in one solemn and capacious grove ; 
Huge trunks ! — and each particular trunk a growth 
Of intertwisted fibres serpentine 
Up-coiling, and inveterately convolved, — 
Nor uninform'd with Phantasy, and looks 
That threaten the profane ; — a pillar 'd shade, 
Upon whose grassless floor of red-brown hue, 
By sheddings from the pining umbrage tinged 
Perennially — beneath whose sable roof 
Of boughs, as if for festal purpose, deck'd 
With unrejoicing berries, ghostly Shapes 
May meet at noontide — Fear and trembling Hope, 
Silence and Foresight — Death the Skeleton, 
And Time the Shadow, — there to celebrate, 
As in a natural temple scatter'd o'er 

* This tree is seven yards in circumference at the height of four 
feet from the ground. About five years ago it was shorn of its fine 
proportions by a heavy storm of wind and snow, which broke off 
one of its largest branches. 

h 3 



70 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWKCK. 

With altars undisturb'd of mossy stone, 
United worship ; or in mute repose 
To lie, and listen to the mountain-flood 
Murmuring from Glaramara's* inmost caves. 

" At the hamlet of Seathwaite, wood and cultivation end. 
There is no Inn at Seathwaite, but the Tourist will find ample 
refreshments by calling at Mrs. Dixon's, a private house in the 
village. The road, now reduced to a horse-track, follows the 
rapidly-ascending bed of the stream for a mile farther, and then, 
turning sharp over a little bridge, thrown across that branch of 
the Grange river which comes down from 1 
immediately to mount Sty Head. But Stockley B it is 

called, will detain our attention for a time, as a perfect minia- 
ture model of a bridge and waterfall. It is i rch, 
apparently wedged rather than cemented together, hardly two 
yards in span, or one in breadth, with no parapet except a 
slight elevation of the outer J c -h 
there seems hardly room for a horse to ■ :. 
thrown over a rocky cleft, ten or tv. i - m , 
with a small glittering cas pool 
below ; for the purest spring is not m from taint of moss 
than the water which descends from 
this is one of the most perfect 
bridges, the gradual disappearance of which 
regretted. f 

" The height of Sty Head above tl i i, v Mr. 

Baines f Companion to the Lulus') to be L254 
ever, is its height above the sea : its i 
Bridge probably does not exceed 7j0 or - 
of the first ascent is a small plain, in which lies a nan 
of water, called Sty Head Tarn. Beyond it, the road still r \t 
until turning a sharp point of a rock, with a 
Wastdale lies in view more than a : 

* A part of the Borrowdale Fell- 
thwaite and Langstreth. 

f The character of Stockley bridge has been lamentably chan _ 
this description of it was written. The bridge iti 
wider by two or three feet, and the former sin-nlarlv pictun - 
pearance of the parapet has been complete! . 
Auction of an unsightly smooth coping. September 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 71 

in front the precipices of the Pikes rise double that height. 
The grandeur of the scene is enhanced by the suddenness with 
which it comes into view. On the Wastdale side of the Gable gar- 
nets abound in the hard flinty slate. Sty Head Tarn is fed by 
a rill from Sprinkling Tarn, the source of one branch of the 
Grange river, which lies some hundred feet higher, under the 
broad front of Great End. Horses may be taken in the ascent 
of the Pikes to Sprinkling Tarn, or, with care, even to Esk 
Hause. Passing south of the tarn, we proceed eastward up the 
hill-side towards Esk Hause, where this route unites with the 
shorter and more direct one, which follows the water up from 
Stockley Bridge.' ' 

The return to Keswick may be varied, by striking over the 
mountains into the Vale of Langstreth and through Stonethwaite. 



ASCENT OF SCAWFELL. 

The last Excursion conducted the Tourist to Sty Head and as 
far as Esk Hause in the ascent of Scawieil, The present will 
place him on the summit of the highest mountain in England. 
The following account of a visit to this lofty eminence is ex- 
tracted from a letter by a friend of Mr. Wordsworth, and may 
not be uninteresting. 

" Having left Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, on a bright morning 
in the first week of October, we ascended from Seathwaite to 
the top of the ridge, called Esk Hause, and thence beheld three 
distinct views ; — on one side, the continuous Vale of Borrowdale, 
Keswick, and Bassenthwaite, — withSkiddaw, Ilelvellyn, Saddle- 
back, and numerous other mountains, — and, in the distance, the 
Solway Frith and the Mountains of Scotland ; — on the other 
side, and below us, the Langdale Pikes — their own vale below 
them; — Windermere, — and far beyond Windermere, Ingle- 
borough in Yorkshire. But how shall I speak of the delicious- 
ness of the third prospect ! At this time, that was most favour- 
ed by sunshine and shade. The green Vale of Esk — deep and 
green, with its glittering serpent stream, lay below us ; and, on 
we looked to the Mountains near the Sea, — Black Comb pre- 
eminent, — and, still beyond, to the Sea itself, in dazzling bright- 
ness. Turning round we saw the Mountains of Wastdale in 
tumult ; to our right, Great Gable, the loftiest, a distinct, and 



72 EXCURSIONS PROM KESWICK. 

huge form, though the middle of the mountain was, to our eyes, 
as its base. 

We had attained the object of this journey ; but our ambition 
now mounted higher. We saw the summit of Scawfell, appa- 
rently very near to us ; and we shaped our course towards it ; 
but, discovering that it could not be reached without first making 
a considerable descent, we resolved, instead, to aim at another 
point of the same mountain, called the Pikes, which I have since 
found has been estimated as higher than the summit bearing the 
name of Scawfell Head, where the Stone Man is built. 

The sun had never once been overshadowed by a cloud during 
the whole of our progress from the centre of Borrowdale. On 
the summit of the Pike, which we gained after much toil, though 
Without difficulty, there was not a breath of air to stir even the 
papers containing our refreshment, as they lay spread out upon 
a rock. The stillness seemed to be not of this world : — we 
paused, and kept silence to listen ; and no sound could be heard : 
the Scawfell Cataracts were voiceless to us ; and there was not 
an insect to hum in the air. The vales which we had soon from 
Esk Hause lay yet in view ; and, side by side with Eskdale, we 
now saw the sister Vale of Donnerdale terminated by the 
Duddon Sands. But the majesty of the mountains below, and 
close to us, is not to be conceived. We now beheld the whole 
mass of Great Gable from its base, — the Den of Wastdale at 
our feet — a gulph immeasurable : Grasmire and the other moun- 
tains of Crummock — Ennerdale and its mountains ; and the Sea 
beyond ! We sat down" to our repast, and gladly would we have 
tempered our beverage (for there was no spring or well near us) 
with such a supply of delicious water as we might have procured, 
had we been on the rival summit of Great Gable: for on its highest 
point is a small triangular receptacle in the native rock, which, 
the shepherds say, is never dry.* There we might have slaked our 

* This natural basin was reported to have been destroyed by the 
officers employed by Government on the Ordnance Survey, but the 
writer of this note has the satisfaction to state that when he ascended 
the Gable, in September, 1842, he found it uninjured, and full of water, 
although more than half covered by a Stone Man that has been 
erected on the summit of the mountain. — AVe may observe, once for all, 
that the term "Man" is provincially applied to the piles of stones 
erected on the tops of most of the lake hills and mountains. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 73 

thirst plenteously with a pure and celestial liquid, for the cup or 
basin, it appears, has no other feeder than the dews of heaven, the 
showers, the vapours, the hoar frost, and the spotless snow. 

While we were gazing around, " Look," I exclaimed, " at 
yon ship upon the glittering sea !" " Is it a ship ?" replied our 
shepherd-guide. " It can be nothing else," interposed my com- 
panion; "I cannot be mistaken, lam so accustomed to the appear- 
ance of ships at sea." The Guide dropped the argument ; but, 
before a minute was gone, he quietly said, " Now look at your 
ship ; it is changed into a horse." So it was, — a horse with a 
gallant neck and head. We laughed heartily ; and, I hope, 
when again inclined to be positive, I may remember the ship 
and the horse upon the glittering sea ; and the calm confidence, 
yet submissiveness, of our wise Man of the Mountains, who 
certainly had more knowledge of clouds than we, whatever 
might be our knowledge of ships. 

I know not how long we might have remained on the summit 
of the Pike, without a thought of moving, had not our Guide 
warned us that we must not linger ; for a storm was coming. 
We looked in vain to espy the signs of it. Mountains, 
vales, and sea w r ere touched with the clear light of the sun. 
M It is there," said he, pointing to the sea beyond Whitehaven, 
and there we perceived a light vapour unnoticeable but by a 
a shepherd accustomed to watch all mountain bodings. We 
gazed around again, and yet again, unwilling to lose the remem- 
brance of what lay before us in that lofty solitude ; and then 
prepared to depart. Meanwhile the air changed to cold, and 
we saw that tiny vapour swelled into mighty masses of cloud 
which came boiling over the mountains. Great 'Gable, Hel- 
vellyn, and Skiddaw were wrapped in storm ; yet Langdale, 
and the mountains in that quarter, remained all bright in sun- 
shine. Soon the storm reached us ; we sheltered under a crag ; 
and, almost as rapidly as it had come, it passed away, and left us 
free to observe the struggles of gloom and sunshine in other 
quarters. Langdale now had its share, and the Pikes of Lang- 
dale were decorated by two splendid rainbows. Skiddaw also 
had his own rainbows. Before we again reached Esk Hause 
every cloud had vanished from every summit. 

I ought to have mentioned, that round the top of Scawfell- 
Pike not a blade of grass is to be seen. Cushions or tufts of 



74 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

moss, parched and brown, appear between the huge blocks and 
stones that lie in heaps on all sides to a great distance, like 
skeletons or bones of the earth not needed at the creation, and 
there left to be covered with never-dying lichens, which 
clouds and dews nourish ; and adorned with colours of rind and 
exquisite beauty. Flowers, the most brilliant f< and 

even gems, scarcely surpass in colouring some of those masses 
of stone, which no human eye behold*, except the shepherd or 
traveller be led thither by curiosity : and bo* 
happen ! For the other eminence is I by the a«! 

turous stranger; and the shepherd has do inducement toa- 
Pike in quest of his sheep ; no food being there to tempt them. 

We certainly were singularly favoured hi the weather j 
when we were seated on the summit, our conductor, turnim: his 
eyes thoughtfully round, said, " 1 
whole life, 1 WSJ ever, at -ar, so \. 

the mountains on so calm a day. " | It was the 7th of October.) 
Afterwards we had a i.Mir of earth 

heaven commingled : yet without terror. We knew that 
storm would pass assay— I'm; - prophi 

assured us. 

Before we reached Seathwsite in Borrowdale, a few -tars had 
appeared, and we pursued our way d 
thwaite, by moonlight. 

" Scawfell is separated from tl by a deep chasm, 

called Mickledore, at the bottom of which a nai re, like 

the roof of a house, slopes into Bskdale on one si nto 

Wastdale on the other. So far all IS easy ; but the asccn: 
Scawfell from this point ought not to ; taken witl 

guide well acquainted with the pn moun- 

tain. It is encompassed by precipe I w ith i 

terraces of turf, and slant H 

stranger might chance to find himself entrapped u 

where to go backwards or forwards would he equally difficult 
and dangerous. 

" If the traveller be bound from the Pik 
direct and practicable descent may he found by Miekle- 

dore ; or a tolerably straight course may be shaped from the 
Pikes either into Wastdale, or, if the traveller be return 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 75 

Keswick, back to Sty Head by the western side of the moun- 
tain, leaving Great End to the right, and keeping farther down 
the hill -side than would at first seem necessary, to avoid some 
deep and apparently impassable ravines, which run out from 
among the crags of Great End. These oblige him to descend 
below the level of Sty Head. 

" From Esk Hause, an hour well used will take the walker, 
in a different direction, to the head of Langdale. The way lies 
past Angle Tarn, under the northern precipice of Bowfell. The 
best descent into Langdale is down a steep rugged gulley, called 
Rosset Gill. The circuit from Keswick to Ambleside by Sty 
Head, the Pikes, Esk Hause, and Langdale, may be reckoned 
at thirty miles, and lies throughout among the hnest scenery of 
the country." 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

THALICTHUM alpi/ium.— Between Great End Crag and Scawfell 
Pikes.- Watmm. 

THALICTBUM mi/tiis.— Black Rockl of Great End. 

Bilbne acaulig. t Black Rooks of Great End Crags. — 

Baxifkaga opposiHfolicL S Watsom, 

Oxykia / 1 iiij'ufinis. Black rocki Bod* 

Balix herbacea. — Scawfell Pikes. 



BK1DDAW. 

Skiddaw is the fourth English mountain in height, being 3022 
feet above the level of the sea, and 291 1 above Derwent Water. 
To the highest point from Keswick it is ni miles, and i- 
of access that persons may ride to the summit on horseback* 
The approach to Skiddaw is by the Penrith road for about half 
a mile, chiefly along the hanks of the Greta to a bridge just be- 
yond tin* tolld)ar. lla\in<_r crossed the bridge, the road ascends 
somewhat steeply, and after passing Greta Bank skirts Latrig at 
a considerable elevation. A little beyond the plantation the 
tourist will see another road, which he must take, though only 
tor a tew yards, when he mu^t again turn, just beyond agate on 
the left, at right angles, by the Bide of a fence to a hollow at the 
foot of the steepest hill in the ascent. From this place the road 
rises precipitously for almost a mile by the side of a stone wall, 
which it crosses about one-third of the way up, and then leaves 
on the ri°:ht. The ascent then becomes easy over a barren moor, 



76 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

called Skiddaw Forest, to the foot of the Low Man, where there 
is a fine spring of water. Beyond this well, having the first and 
second summits, or Men, as they are called, on the left, the road 
ascends easily by a good beaten track to the third Man, which is 
the highest point that can be seen from the valley, and from this 
elevated station the whole extent of the vale beneath is i 
beautifully displayed. After passing the fourth and fifth heap 
of stones, the traveller will soon place himself upon the highest 
summit of this mountain. Dcrwent Water cannot be seen from 
this lofty eminence, being obscured by others of le>s elevation, 
which hide also the high grounds lying between Wytbburn and 
Langdale. On the right of the third Man appear Mag- 

nificent assemblage of mountains, i rn direction 

is seen that sublime chain extending from Coniston to Ennerdale 
amongst which Scawfcll stands ])-c-t'ii,ii)cnt, baring on iti left 
Great End, Hanging Knot, Bow fell, and the fells of Coniston ; 
and on the right Lingmell I V, Kirkfell, HI 

Sail, the Pillar, the Steeple, and the Hay Cock, with \ 
row and part of the Screes through - ; .l. Black Combe 

maybe descried through an o 

Kirkfell. To the north of the Ennerdale mountains are tl 
of Buttermere ; and High Crs \ High Stile, and 1; 
nobly over Cat Bells, Robinson, and Hindscarth. Still further 
to the north, rising from the rale <>f Newlands, i< Rawling End, 
whence, aspiring, are Causey I jlj 

Crags, Grasmire, and Grisedale Pike, On t 
dale Pike and Hobcarten Crag Kfl Low Fell, over which, in a 
clear atmosphere, may be observe. I the northern part of 
of Man; and perhaps, one day out of a hundred, Ire! 
be seen. The town and ( , t f v 

seen over the foot of Bassenthwaite, with Work (fa 

outlet of the Derwent on its left. Whitehaven is hid from our 
view, but all the sea coast from St. Bees" Rea .ith 

to Rockliffe Marsh may be easily traced. Over the northern 
end of Skiddaw, Carlisle, if the state of 

vourable, may be plainly seen, and the mountains of 

Criffell, &c. give a fine finish to the fertile plains of Cumberland. 
Eastward, Penrith and its Beacon are visible, with [ i n 

the distance ; and tar away to i\w south-east the broad head ot 
Ingleborough towers over the Westmorland fells. Saddleback 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 77 

here displays its pointed top, and nearly due south is seen the 
lofty summit of Helvellyn. The estuaries of the Kent and 
the Leven, separated by a hill called Yewbarrovv, near Grange, 
are visible through the gap of Dunmail Raise ; and Lancaster 
Castle may sometimes be seen beyond Gummershow at the 
foot of Windermere, with the aid of a telescope ; but no part of 
the lake of Windermere can, as has been frequently stated, be 
discerned from this point. 

The descent, for the sake of variety, might be made into the 
valley of Bassenthwaite, where refreshments may be had at the 
Castle Inn, near the foot of the lake, whence it is eight miles to 
Keswick by the eastern, and ten by the western road. 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Salix herbacea. — Summit of Skiddaw. 
Carex rigida. — Skiddaw. 
Saxifraga aizoides. — Do. 

stellaris. — Do. 

Viola luiea. — Do. 



SADDLEBACK. 

Saddleback is, in the opinion of some tourists, more worthy of a 
visit than Skiddaw. " Derwent Water," says Dr. Southey, "as 
seen from the top of Saddleback, is one of the finest mountain 
scenes in the country. The tourist who would enjoy it should 
proceed about six miles along the Penrith road, then take the 
road which leads to Hesket New Market, and presently ascend 
by a green shepherds' path which winds up the side of a ravine ; 
and having gained the top, keep along the summit, leaving Threl- 
keld Tarn below him on the right, and descend upon the Glen- 
deraterra, the stream which comes down between Saddleback 
and Skiddaw, and falls into the Greta about two miles from Kes- 
wick." The ancient name of this mountain is Blencathra. The 
modern one of Saddleback has been given to it from the peculi- 
arity of its formation, as seen from the neighbourhood of Penrith, 
where it takes something of the shape of a saddle. Its height is 
2787 feet. At the base of an enormous perpendicular rock called 
Tarn Crag, near Linthwaite Pike, is Scales Tarn, a small lake 
deeply seated among the crags, which, from the peculiarity of its 
situation, is said to reflect the stars at noon-day. In Bowscale 
fell, and lying about three miles from Scales Tarn, in a north- 

i 



78 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 



easterly direction, is Bowscale Tarn, which sends a tributary 
to the Caldew. This tarn is the seat of a singular superstition, 
being supposed by the country people to be inhabited by two 
immortal fish : — 

" Both the undying fish that swim 

In Bowscale Tarn did wait on him ; 
The pair were servants of his eye 
In their immortality; 
They moved about in open sight, 
To and fro for his delight." — 

Song at the Feast of Brougham Castle. 

We are not told in what way the belief originated. 



GRISEDALE PIKE 

Rises to the height of 2580 feet above the level of the sea. 
It is situated to the west of Keswick, above the village of Brai- 
thwaite, and well deserves a visit. Lovers of wild scenery 
will find much pleasure in continuing their walk along the ridge 
which connects Grisedale Pike with Grassmoor, returning by a 
pleasant morning's walk to Keswick over Causey Pike. 

BOTANICAL NOTICE. 
Arbutus Uva- Ursi. — Descent from Grassmoor t<»Crumnu»ck v 



RIDE from KESWICK to 


BUTTERMERE, through Rowlands. 


11 Portinscale 


.. l\ 


\ B:rkriu:g 


3 h Swinside 


n 


\ Gill Brow 8 


| Stair 


.. 3i 


| Aikin K* 


l\ Stoneycroft, right 


-H 


| Keskadale 7 


| Emerald Bank, left ... 


.. 5 


\\ Newlands Haws 


J Bridge near Mill Dam ... 


5} 


1| Inn at Bnttermere .. 10 



The road to Newlands is by the village of Portinscale, and 
thence between Foe Park Woods anil Swinside, to the Three 
Pvoad Ends. The one on the right leads through Newlands t<> 
Buttermere. This road skirts the southern flank of Swii 
and continues winding through the glade in a pleasant manner. 
At Rawling End (a mountain so called) the scenery is excellent, 
either looking back in the direction of Skiddaw, across the valley 
towards Cat Bells, or up the vale of Newlands. A fine branch of 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. /U 

the vale of Newlands extends from Emerald Bank to Dale Head, 
guarded on the south by Maiden Moor and High Crag, and on the 
north by Gold Scalp and Hindscarth. Above Keskadale, the last 
houses in the valley, the road ascends steeply to Newlands' Haws 
through the sides of which Great Robinson is advantageously 
seen. In the descent from the Haws to Buttermere, there are 
numerous grand and impressive changes, and the road runs at an 
alarming height above the ravine which separates this from the 
opposite hill called Whitelees. The chain of mountains develop- 
ed in the descent of the Haws is the most magnificent in the 
whole circumference of the valley. The appearance of High 
Style and of the whole visible horizon from Green Crags to Red 
Pike is scarcely equalled in Cumberland, (See Plate No. 3. ) 
The white stream called Sourmilk Gill, issuing from Rleaberry 
Tarn, or Burtness Tarn, down the rocky steep, forms a beautiful 
feature in the landscape. The road passes a neat little chapel 
recently erected by the Rev. Mr. Thomas on the site of a still 
smaller one, which was said to have been the smallest in Eng- 
land, and not capable of containing within its walls more than 
half a dozen households. At a short distance from the chapel 
stands the Inn where Mary Robinson, the Beauty of Buttermere, 
was for a number of years the unceasing object of public curiosity. 

The Lake of Buttermere is one mile and a quarter in length, 
and little more than half a mile in breadth. Buttermere Moss 
and Great Robinson bound it on the east ; Hay Stacks, so called 
from their form, High Crag, High Style, and Red Pike rising 
to a great height, enclose it on the west ; whilst Fleetwith, with 
Honister Crag, at the head of the lake, seems to shut out all 
communication southwards. At the north end, or outlet of the 
lake, it is separated from Crummock Water by an enclosed and 
verdant plain beautifully ornamented with woods and hedge rows, 
over which is seen at some distance, Lowfell, an eminence which 
separates Lowes Water from Lor ton. Buttermere affords excel- 
lent sport for the angler. 

Most persons content themselves with what they can see of 
Buttermere in one day, but many days might be profitably em- 
ployed in exploring the beauties of this secluded vale. To such 
transient visitors it is recommended to see Scale Force, one of 
the highest waterfalls in the country. The road to this place is 
by a footpath across the fields, which, from the soft and boggy 

I 2 



80 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

nature of the ground, is anything but agreeable in damp weather; 
a better arrangement will therefore be, to take a boat at the head 
of Crummock Water, and proceed to the stream which issues 
from the fall, where parties are usually landed. From this point 
it is a mile to the Force, which is one clear fall of 160 feet be- 
tween two vast perpendicular walls of syenite, beautifully adorned 
with numerous small trees which have taken root in the fissures 
of the rock, and are nourished by the spray of the falling 
waters. On returning to the boat, row direct to Ling Crag, 
a little rocky promontory at the foot of Melbreak, and from a 
point two or three hundred yards above this promontory is the 
best Station for a view of the two lakes of Crummock and Butter- 
mere, and the surrounding mountains. 

Crummock Water is bounded on the east by the lofty moun- 
tain of Whiteside, Grassmoor, and Whitelees ; and Melbreak 
is the western barrier for a considerable distance. Scale Hill is 
upwards of three miles from Ling Crag, and, if time should 
permit, parties may resort thither for refreshment at an excel- 
lent Inn, and afterwards return to Buttermere. The road 

recommended in the return to Keswick is by Borrowdale A 

mile and a half from the Inn at Buttermere, Hassness, the resi- 
dence of — Benson, Esq., is passed on the right, and half a 
mile more will bring the Traveller to a farm-house called 
Gatesgarth. 

[From this place a mountain road strikes off to the right, be- 
tween Haystacks and High Crag, to Ennerdale (six miles), by 
the Pass of Scarf Gap, and is met by another path over Black 
Sail, on the opposite side of the valley of Gillerthwaite, which 
descends through the Vale of Mosedale, between Kirkfell and 
the Pillar to Wastdale Head (six miles). These roads are indicated 
on the Map. A horse may be taken over these hills in dry wea- 
ther, but those who can bear walking will find it much pleasanter 
than riding : indeed much of the road must be passed on foot. 
Over these mountains it will be prudent totakeaguide. Seep. 58.] 

From Gatesgarth the road to Borrowdale is by a laborious 
ascent of nearly three miles to the summit of Buttermere Haws, 
having the almost perpendicular rock of Honister Crag on the 
right and Yew Crag on the left hand. In both these stu- 
pendous rocks are extensive quarries of valuable roofing slate. 
A very interesting combination of mountains is exhibited from 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 81 

he top of the road, which begins to descend rapidly to Seatoller, 
n Borrowdale, from whence it is a mile and three-quarters to 
losthwaite, where there is a public- house. From thence, 
>assing Bowder Stone, Grange (where consult Diagrams* 
?/afe 3), and Lodore, it is six miles to Keswick. This Excur- 
ion may be made (but with some difficulty) in a car. 
DRIVE to SCALE HILL and BUTTERMERE. 

$ Braithwaite 2£ 4 Scale Hill 12 

$ Summit of Whinlatter ... 5 4 Buttermere 16 

Lorton 8 9 Thro' Newlands to Keswick 25 

The best approach to Crummock and Buttermere is by Whin- 
itter and Swinside to Scale Hill, ten miles, or by a more cir- 
uitous road through the Vale of Lorton, twelve miles. The 
oad to Scale Hill leaves that to Bassenthwaite at the village of 
Sraithwaite, where the ascent of Whinlatter commences, and 
lthough long and tedious, the Traveller is fully compensated 
3r his toil by the noble retrospective views of the Vale of 
Ceswick which are unfolded. (See Diagrams, Plate 4J. 
^or two miles past the fourth milestone Grisedale Pike is 
n the left. A little beyond the sixth milestone, a road 
ranches off to the left, along Swinside, and is the one 
fhich persons of taste, whether on foot, on horseback, or even 
i carriages, should take, on their way to Scale Hill. On first 
ntering this road the traveller may feel some disappointment, 
ut, having ascended the hill, he will be charmed with the views 
f the Vale of Lorton, and the distant prospect even of the Scotch 
lountains. The more circuitous route through the Vale of 
Norton turns off from the Cockermouth road at the famous Yew 
>ee,* and joins the terrace road just mentioned about a mile 

* " pride of Lorton Vale, 



Which to this day stands single, in the midst 

Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore, 

Not loth to furnish weapons for the bands 

Of Umfraville or Percy, ere they march'd 

To Scotland's heaths : or those that crossed the sea, 

And drew their sounding bows at Azincour ; 

Perhaps at earlier Crecy, or Poictiers. 

Of vast circumference, and gloom profound, 

This solitary tree, a living thing, 

Produced too slowly ever to decay ; 

Of form and aspect too magnificent 

To be destroyed." 

i 3 



H'2 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

and half from Scale Hill. A quarter of a mile beyond the junc- 
tion of these roads, are two other roads ; that on the left leads 
to Buttermere ; the other to the Inn at Scale Hill. 

Scale Hill is well situated for parties wishing to visit Crum- 
mock Water, Buttermere, Lowes Water, and Ennerdale. 

Prom Scale Hill a pleasant walk may be taken to an eminence 
in Mr. Marshall's woods, and another, by crossing the bridge at 
the foot of the hill, upon which the Inn stands, and turning to 
the right, after the opposite hill has been ascended a little way, 
then following the road that leads towards Lorton for about half a 
mile, looking back upon Crummock Water, &c, between the open- 
ings of the fences. (See Diagrams, Plate 4). Turn back and 
make your way to 

LOWES WATER, 

A small lake, about a mile in length, situated in a deep secluded 
valley about two miles from Crummock, and surrounded by the 
bold mountains of Blake Fell, Low Fell, and Melbreak. The 
valley is prettily wooded and has an air of pastoral beauty. It 
is only seen to advantage from the other end, therefore any tra- 
veller approaching from the foot must look' back upon it on 
arriving at its head. The following Table will shew the route 
to be observed in a 

WALK round LOWES WATER from SCALE HILL. 

1 Place or High Water End 3| 
£ Bottom or Low Water End 4} 

lj Crabtree Beck 5* 

1 Join the road from Scale 
Hill to the Chapel at the 

Snrithy Gfc 

h Scale Hill 7 



J Lowes Water Church ... £ 
1£ Thence by Kirk Head, Bar 

Gate, Steel Bank, and 

High Nook, to Water 

Teat 2} 

£ Gill falling from Carling 

Knott 2| 

CRUMMOCK WATER AND BUTTERMERE 
Are no where so impressive as from the bosom of Crummock 
Water ; and the following Excursion to Buttermere from Scale 
Hill will be found highly interesting. 

LAND and WATER EXCURSION from SCALE HILL. 

1 Boat House on Crummock 1 £ To Scale Force and back . . . 5 

Water 1 1 Join the road -at the head of 

1£ Flat Fields at Ranner dale 2} the lake 6 

£ Station above Ling Crag ... s| 1 Inn at Buttermere 7 

Scale Force and Green's Station at Ling Crag have been 
noticed at pp. 79-80. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 



83 



ENNERDALE WATER 

Is situated four miles to the south of Lowes Water. It is three- 
quarters of a mile in breadth, and extends two miles and a half 
in length. The scenery is wild and romantic, and beyond the 
head of the lake are seen some of the highest mountains in the 
country, of which the most conspicuous is the Pillar, rising to 
the elevation of 2893 feet. Owing to its difficulty of access to 
Southern Tourists, Ennerdale Water is rarely seen except from 
a distance. It may be approached from the Inn at Buttermere 
by Scale Force and Floutern Tarn ; and also from Scale Hill 
through Mosedale* and by Floutern Tarn, and by several other 
mountain roads, all terminating at Crosdale, where the best views 
of the lake are obtained. There is a small public-house — the 
Boat House — at the foot of Ennerdale Lake, with a comfortable 
and pleasant sitting room, and accommodation for the night. 
The following Tables may be useful to the Traveller. 



WALK from BUTTERMERE to its union with the road from Cros- 
dale to ENNERDALE WATER. 



is one of the best view T s of 

the lake 6 

Ennerdale Water 7 



2 Scale Force 2 

2£ Floutern Tarn 4* 

1^ Join the road from Crosdale 
toEnnerdale Water, where 

Three roads on foot to CROSDALE, from SCALE HILL, by High 

Nook. 



A mile on the high road to 

Lowes Water 

High Nook 

Passage to Crosdale over 

Blake Fell; 

Or, to Crosdale, deviating 

at the top of Elake Fell 

on the left ; 



Or, to Crosdale by com- 
mencing the ascent with 
the rivulet on the left, 
at High Nook, and then 
turning on the right ... £f 

From Crosdale to Enner- 
dale Water it is 1 mile ; 
the finest views are half 
way ,. 5i 



From SCALE HILL, on a horse road, to ENNERDALE WATER. 



2| Lowes Water End, at the 

Head of Lowes Water ... 2| 

J Enter the common %\ 

If Lampleugh Church 5 \ 

| Road on the left, beyond 
the church 6 



2\ On this road by High Trees 
and Fell Dyke to Cros- 
dale , 8£ 

$■ Half way to the lake, the 
best prospect 8£ 

$ Margin of the lake 9J 



From Crosdale the Tourist may proceed to Wastdale 
Head by pursuing the following route, — or he may return to 



* This name is common to several valleys in the Lake District, 
behoves Tourists to bear this in mind. 



It 



84 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 



Buttermere by the foot-road over Scarf-gap after he has passed 
through the secluded valley of Gillerthwaite, as the upper part 
of Ennerdale is called. This road he will find marked upon 
the Map. 

Prom CROSDALE, on foot, to the Eastern Side of ENNERDALE 
WATER, and through Ennerdale and Mosedale to WASTDALE 
HEAD. 



1 Join the lake 

I Bowness 

2 Head of the lake... 
1£ Gillerthwaite 



1 
li 

o 



2$ Foot of the road to Butter- 
mere over Scarf Gap ... 7 J 



| Sheep-fold on the river side 8 
| From which, with the stream 
on the left, ascend to the 

top of Black Sail 8£ 

2\ Wastdale Head, through 
Mosedale 11 



TWO DAYS' EXCURSION TO WASTWATER. 

Wast Water is seen to the greatest advantage on approaching 
it from the open country by the Strands at its foot, rather than 
by Sty Head. The latter road enters Wastdale at the head of 
the lake, and can only be taken on foot or on horseback. The 
Tourist, therefore, should commence this Excursion by going 
over Whinlatter to Scale Hill, already noticed, and proceeding 
by Lowes Water and Lampleugh Cross to Ennerdale Bridge, 
thence to Calder Bridge, from which place there is only one 
near road ; and that is by Gosforth to the Strands in Nether 
Wastdale, near the foot of Wast Water. This road, although 
in part steep and not very good, may without difficulty be tra- 
velled over by light carriages ; but there is an excellent carriage 
road, which makes, however, a circuit of many miles, through 
Cockermouth, Workington, Whitehaven, and Egremont to 
Calder Bridge. By leaving Workington on the right, and passing 
from Cockermouth direct to Whitehaven the distance is shortened 
two miles. 

From Scale Hill it is about two miles to Lowes Water ; 
whence to Lampleugh Cross, where there are two small public 
houses, four miles ; to Ennerdale Bridge, at the foot of Enner- 
dale, three miles more ; and from Ennerdale Bridge seven 
miles to Calder Bridge, where excellent accommodation may be 
had at two comfortable Inns. The direct road from Ennerdale 
Bridge to Calder Bridge is over a dreary moor called Coldfell. 
This road is rendered extremely disagreeable to drive over by 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 85 

the number of gates ; so that it would be better to go by Egre- 
mont, although the distance would be increased four miles. 

Calder Abbey is one mile from Calder Bridge. Little of 
this ruin is left, but that little is well worthy of notice. It is 
situated on the north side of the river Calder, close to the resi- 
dence of Captain Irwin, and was founded a.d. 1134 by the 
second Ranulph des Meschines for Cistercian monks, and was 
dependent on Furness Abbey. 

From Calder Bridge to Gosforth, three miles ; thence to the 
Strands public-house, four miles. 

Circuitous Carriage Road, — This road as far as the famous 
Lorton Yew-tree, eight miles from Keswick, has been already 
noticed. From the Yew-tree the turnpike-road must be kept, 
and after driving through a rich fertile country for four miles, 
the Traveller will reach 

Cockermouth, a borough-town sending two members to Par- 
liament, situate upon the Cocker, where it falls into theDerwent. 
Hats, coarse woollens, linen, and leather, are manufactured 
here. The Castle is for the most part in ruins, and belongs 
to General Wyndham, who occasionally resides there. Market 
on Monday and Saturday. Inns, Globe, Sun. 

From Cockermouth to Whitehaven direct, is fourteen miles, 
and by Workington sixteen miles. On leaving Cockermouth, 
by turning aside a few steps, a fine view of the river Derwent 
and the Castle may be had from the bridge. 

Workington is situated on the south bank of the Derwent, 
and has a good harbour well secured by a breakwater. In the 
vicinity of the town are several valuable coal mines, which are 
principally worked by Henry Curwen, Esq. the lord of the 
manor. Some of these have lately been destroyed: by the sea 
breaking in upon them. The streets are irregularly built, but 
have of late years been much improved by modern erections. 
Workington Hall stands on a gentle eminence on the east side 
of the town, and is celebrated as having afforded an asylum to 
the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, after her escape from 
Dunbar Castle. Population, 7226. 

Whitehaven ranks the second town of importance in Cum- 
berland. It is situated on a bay, and the harbour has been 
greatly improved by an elegant and substantial stone pier, said 
to be the largest in the kingdom. The town is built with great 



86 EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 

regularity, and the streets are spacious. The Castle is the resi- 
dence of the Earl of Lonsdale, who is lord of the manor and 
proprietor of the coal mines, which are perhaps the most extra- 
ordinary in the world. In the William Pit there are 500 acres 
under the sea, and the distance is two miles and a half from the 
shaft to the extreme part of the workings. There is a stable 
also under the sea in this immense pit for forty-five horses. The 
shaft is one hundred and ten fathoms deep. The coals are princip- 
ally exported to Ireland, and yield a large revenue to the noble 
proprietor. Ship building is carried on here to some extent, 
and the principal manufactures of the town are linen sail-cloth, 
checks, ginghams, sheetings, thread, twine, cables, &c. 

From Whitehaven it is six miles to Egremont by way of 
Hensingham, and seven by St. Bees, " a place distinguished 
from very early times for its religious and scholastic foundations. 
' St. Bees,' say Nicholson and Burn, * had its name from Bega, 
a holy woman from Ireland, who is said to have founded here, 
about the year 650, a small monastery, where afterwards a 
church was built in memory of her. The aforesaid religious 
house, having been destroyed by the Danes, was restored by 
William de Meschines, son of Ranulph, and brother of Ranulph 
de Meschines, first Earl of Cumberland after the conquest ; and 
made a cell of a prior and six Benedictine monks to the Abbey 
of St. Mary at York.' After the dissolution of the monasteries, 
Archbishop Grindal founded a free school at St. Bees, from 
which the counties of Cumberland and Westmorland have de- 
rived great benefit ; and recently, under the patronage of the 
Earl of Lonsdale, a college has been established there for the 
education of ministers of the English Church. The old Con- 
ventual Church was repaired under the superintendence of the 
Rev. Dr. Ainger, the late Head of the College ; and is well 
worthy of being visited by any strangers who may be led to the 
neighbourhood of this celebrated spot." This collegiate insti- 
tution is now in a highly flourishing condition, under the able 
management of the Rev. R. P. Buddicom. 

Egremont is a neat little town, with about 1500 inhabitants, 
situate on the north side of the river Ehen, which flows from 
Ennerdale lake, seven miles distant. The road is good. The ruins 
of the Castle stand on an eminence to the west of the town. 
This fortress is not of very great extent, but bears singular 
marks of antiquity and strength. 



EXCURSIONS FROM KESWICK. 



87 



From Egremont it is five miles of pleasant road to Calder 
Bridge, to which place the Traveller was conducted by the 
route from Scale Hill. 



Should the Tourist prefer the approach to Wast Water by 
Sty Head, the following is the route. The objects on the road 
have been described as far as Sty Head at p. 68, and the ascent 
of this mountain pass from the Strands is also described at p. 58. 

First Day.— WAST WATER by Borrowdale, a Two Days' Excur- 
sion on horseback. 



12 Sty Head 

2 Wastdale Head 

1 Head of Wast Water . . . 
£ Overbeck Bridge 

1 Netherbeck Bridge 

If End of the direct road to 
Calder Bridge by Har- 
row Head 



Second Day. 



12 
14 
15 
15* 

16* 



| Crook at the foot of the 

lake 18J 

H Strand's public house ... 20 
l\ Junction of the Strand's 
road with the shortest 

road 21| 

2\ Gosforth 24 

3 Calder Bridge, where there 

are two good Inns ... 27 



See CALDER ABBEY, a mile from Calder Bridge* 
and then proceed 

7 From Calder Bridge to En- 
nerdale Bridge 7 



H Kirkiand 8£ 

1 Koad on the left to Egre- 
mont and Whitehaven ... 9£ 



£ Lampleugh Cross (the 
Cockermomth road is 

to the left 

1 Lampleugh Church ... 

5 Scale Hill 

11 Keswick over Swinside 
and Whinlatter 



10 
11 
10 



BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Arabis petrcea. — Screes, near V* r astwater. 

Thalictrum ma jus. — Do. 

PoTENTiLLAyh/ft'costf. — In the Devil's Hedge-gate, Wastdale Screes. 

Rhodiola rosea. — Wastdale Screes. 

Saxififraga opjyositifolia. — Do. 

Gna phalium dioicum. — Do. 



Round BASSENTHWAITE WATER. 

8 Peel Wye* 8 3 Bassenthwaite Sandbed 

1 Ouse Bridge 9 5 Keswick 

1 Castle Inn ... ... 10 



18 
18 



Before bidding adieu to Keswick, the tour to Bassenthwaite 
Water should not be omitted. Greta Hall, long the residence 
of the lamented Dr. Southey, late Poet Laureate, is situated 



88 ULLSWATER. 

on a gentle eminence near the town. The lake of Bassen- 
thwaite lies four miles north of Derwent Water, is four 
miles in length, and in some places near a mile in breadth. 
In commencing this Excursion, proceed to the village of 
Braithwaite, at the foot of Whinlatter, which the Tourist 
must leave on the left. Passing through the hamlet of Thorn- 
thwaite and skirting the base of the rugged mountains of Lord's 
Seat and Barf, the road undulates pleasantly through wood and 
glade on the margin of the lake, till it reaches Peel Wyke, 
where there is a small ale-house. A little beyond Peel Wyke, 
the road turns off on the right, at the guide-post to Ouse Bridge, 
which crosses the Derwent, where, and at Armathwaite close 
by, are the best views, for those who keep the road generally 
pursued in making the circuit of the lake ; but the pedestrian 
would be fully recompensed if he were to deviate at the Castle 
Inn, one mile from Ouse Bridge, and follow the Hesket road for 
about a mile, and then turn on the right to the top of the Haws, 
from which is presented a magnificent view of Bassenthwaite 
and the Vales of Embleton and Isell. The distance from 
the Castle Inn to Keswick is eight miles ; the road w inds 
agreeably on the eastern side of the lake. 



Since the account of Keswick (p. 59) was printed, we have 
been furnished with the following description of Mr. Flintoff's 
beautiful Model of the Lake District : — 

The horizontal and vertical scale of the Model is three inches to a 
mile ; in length, from Sebergham to Rampside, 51 miles, or 12 feet 
9 inches ; breadth, from Shap to Egremont, 37 miles, or 9 feet 3 inches ; 
circumference, exclusive of sea, 176 miles. The coast is shewn two- 
fifths of the distance, presenting the Bays of Morecambe, Duddon, and 
Ravenglass. The inspector has before him the whole chain of moun- 
tains in the Lake District, in three principal groups — the Scawfell, the 
Helvellyn, and the Skiddaw group, with their numerous interesting 
valleys, spotted with sixteen large lakes. On the uplands are seen 
fifty-two small ones, principally high in the mountain recesses, 
surrounded by contorted and precipitous rocks. On this Model are 
marked the towns of Kendal, Ambleside. Ulverston, Bootle, Broughton, 
Cockermouth, Keswick, Penrith, and Shap. The face of the whole is 
coloured to nature, with the exception of the churches, which are 
coloured red. The plantations are raised, and coloured dark green ; 
the rivers, lakes, and sea, light blue ; roads light brown ; and the 
houses white, as they usually appear. 






m 












i 

^ 






;f|t§ 






11 s 




89 



ULLSWATER. 



8 Moor End ... .. 
7 Gowbarrow Park 
6 Patter dale 



8 
15 
20 



Patter dale to Penrith. 

10 Pooley Bridge .T. 10 

6 Penrith 16 



Ullswater is of an irregular figure, somewhat resembling the 
letter Z, and composed of three unequal reaches, the middle of 
which is somewhat longer than the northern one. The shortest 
is seen from the Inn at Patterdale, and is not half the length of 
either of the others. Ullswater is less than Windermere, 
but larger than the rest of the English lakes, and lies en- 
gulphed in the majestic mountains that rise sublimely from the 
valley. 

From Keswick there are several roads by which Ullswater 
may be approached. 

1st. By a bridle-road that turns off from the Penrith road at 
the third milestone, and crosses the Vale of St. John near its 
foot, then enters the Vale of Wanthwaite, and, after passing 
through Matterdale, unites at Dockray with 

2nd. A good carriage-road that leaves the Penrith road a 
little beyond the twelfth milestone from Keswick, and skirts the 
base of a bleak uninteresting mountain called Mell Fell, which the 
Traveller has on his left hand till he reaches the hamlet of Matter- 
dale End, where the road turns sharply to the left to Dockray, 
before mentioned. From Dockray the Traveller will descend 
upon Gowbarrow Park, and is thus brought at once upon a 
magnificent view of the higher reaches of the lake. (See 
Diagrams, Plate 5). Ara-force thunders down the ghyll on 
the left at a small distance from the road. At the foot of the 
hill, and before proceeding to Patterdale, turn in at the gate on 
the left to Lyulph's Tower, where a guide to the waterfall is 
always to be had, 

3rd. Ullswater may be approached by proceeding direct to 
Pooley Bridge at the foot of the lake, where the angler would 
find much diversion both in the lake and in the neighbouring 
streams. (See Diagrams, Plate 3J. Pooley Bridge is also 
favourably situated for visiting Hawes Water, ten miles, and 
Lowther Castle, four miles ; and the town of Penrith, to be 
hereafter noticed, is only six miles distant. 



90 ULLSWATER. 

Beside the approaches to Ullswater, just mentioned, a stout 
pedestrian might proceed to Patterdale over the northern shoulder 
of Helvellyn, and visit its summit in his progress, if thought 
desirable. — In this route, the road to Ambleside must be kept 
for four miles and three-quarters, whence the road from Wyth- 
burn to Threlkeld must be pursued for a short distance to a farm- 
house called Stainah. The ascent from Stainah, for a consider- 
able distance, is by a steep zig-zag path, on the left of one of the 
mountain streams falling into St. John's Vale. The road at the 
top of the first steep turns southward, nearly at right angles, 
and farther on, at another turn on the left, a few land-marks may 
be observed, which serve as guides into Patterdale by the Green- 
side lead mines, in the Vale of Glenridding. When at the highest 
part of the foot-road, the Raise, or Styx, a round-topped hill, is 
on the right ; and further to the south, with a considerable dip 
beetween them, is another elevation called Whiteside, from 
whence, by a narrow ridge, the Tourist may proceed to the 
summit of Helvellyn. The distance, by this road, if Helvellyn 
be left out, is much less than by any of the former routes, and 
the views from it are exceedingly impressive. In this Excur- 
sion strangers would do well to take a guide. See Ascent of 
Helvellyn from Patterdale. 

If Ullswater be approached from Penrith, a mile and a half 
brings you to the winding Vale of Eamont, and the prospects 
increase in interest till you reach Patterdale ; but the first four 
miles along Ullswater by this road are comparatively tame. 

The following account of Ullswater is from Mr. Wordsworth : 
— In order to see the lower part of the lake to advantage, it is 
necessary to go round by Pooley Bridge, and to ride at least 
three miles along the Westmorland side of the water, towards 
Martindale. The views, especially if you ascend from the road 
into the fields, are magnificent ; yet this is only mentioned that 
the transient visitant may know what exists ; for it would be in- 
convenient to go in search of them. They who take this course 
of three or four miles on foot, should have a boat in readiness at 
the end of the walk, to carry them across to the Cumberland 
side of the lake, near Old Church, thence to pursue the road 
upwards to Patterdale. The Church-yard Yew-tree still sur- 
vives at Old Church, but there are no remains of a Place of 
Worship, a new Chapel having been erected in a more central 



ULLS WATER. 91 

situation, which Chapel was consecrated by the then Bishop of 
Carlisle, when on his way to crown Queen Elizabeth, he being 
the only Prelate who would undertake the office. It may be 
here mentioned that Bassenthwaite Chapel yet stands in a bay 
as sequestered as the site of Old Church ; such situations having 
been chosen in disturbed times to elude marauders. 

The trunk or body of the Vale of Ulls water need not be fur- 
ther noticed, as its beauties shew themselves : but the curious 
Traveller may wish to know something of its tributary streams. 

At Dalemain, about three miles from Penrith, a stream is 
crossed called the Dacre, or Dacor, which name it bore as early 
as the time of the Venerable Bede. This stream does not enter 
the lake, but joins the Eamont a mile below. It rises in the 
moorish country about Penruddock, flows down a soft sequestered 
valley, passing by the ancient mansions of Hutton John and 
Dacre Castle. The former is pleasantly situated, though of 
a character somewhat gloomy and monastic, and from some 
of the fields near Dalemain, Dacre Castle, backed by the 
jagged summit of Saddleback, with the valley and stream in 
front, forms a grand picture. . There is no other stream that 
conducts to any glen or vallej' worthy of being mentioned, till we 
reach that which leads up to Ara-force, and thence into Matter- 
dale, before spoken of. Matterdale, though a wild and interest- 
ing spot, has no peculiar features that would make it worth the 
stranger's while to go in search of them ; but, in Gowbarrow 
Park the lover of Nature might linger for hours. Here is a 
powerful brook, which dashes among rocks through a deep glen, 
hung on every side with a rich and happy intermixture of native 
wood ; here are beds of luxuriant fern, aged hawthorns, and 
hollies decked with honeysuckles ; and fallow-deer glancing and 
bounding over the lawns and through the thickets. These are 
the attractions of the retired views, or constitute a foreground 
for ever- varying pictures of the majestic lake, forced to take a 
winding course by bold promontories, and environed by moun- 
tains of sublime form, towering above each other. At the out- 
let of Gowbarrow Park, we reach a third stream, which flows 
through a little recess called Glencoin, where lurks a single 
house, yet visible from the road. Let the artist or leisurely 
traveller turn aside to it, for the buildings and objects around 
them are romantic and picturesque. Having passed under the 

K 2 



92 ULLSWATER. 

steeps of Sty barrow Crag, and the remains of its native woods, 
at Glenridding Bridge, a fourth stream is crossed, which is con- 
taminated by the operations of the Greenside lead mines in the 
mountains above. 

The opening on the side of Ullswater Vale, down which this 
stream flows, is adorned with fertile fields, cottages, and natural 
groves, that agreeably unite with the transverse views of the 
lake ; and the stream, if followed up after the enclosures are left 
behind, will lead along bold water-breaks and waterfalls to a 
silent Tarn in the recesses of Helvellyn. Eagles formerly built 
in the precipitous rock which forms the western barrier of this 
desolate spot. These birds used to wheel and hover round the 
head of the solitary angler. It also derives a melancholy in- 
terest from the fate of a young man, a stranger, who perished 
some years ago, by falling down the rocks in his attempt to cross 
over from Wythburn to Patterdale. His remains were dis- 
covered by means of a faithful dog that had lingered here for 
the space of three months, self-supported, and probably retain- 
ing to the last an attachment to the skeleton of its master.* 
But to return to the road in the main Vale of Ullswater. — At 
the head of the lake (being now in Patterdale) we cross a fifth 
stream, Grisedale Beck : this would conduct along a woody 
steep, where may be seen some unusually large ancient hollies, 
up to the level area of the valley of Grisedale ; hence there is a 
path for foot-travellers, and along which a horse may be led to 
Grasmere. A sublime combination of mountain forms appears 
in front while ascending the bed of this valley, and the impres- 
sion deepens till the path leads almost immediately under the 
projecting masses of Helvellyn. Having retraced the banks of 
the stream to Patterdale, and pursued the road up the main 
Dale, the next considerable stream would, if ascended in the 
same manner, conduct to Deepdale, the character of which valley 
may be conjectured from its name. It is terminated by a cove, 
a craggy and gloomy abyss, with precipitous sides ; a faithful 
receptacle of the snows that are driven into it by the west wind, 
from the summit of Fairfield. Lastly, having gone along the 
western side of Brothers-water and passed Hartshop Hall, a 
stream soon after issues from a cove richly decorated with native 

* Vide the Poems of Scott and Wordsworth on the subject. 



ULLSWATER. 93 

wood. This spot is, I believe, never explored by Travellers ; 
but, from these sjdvan and rocky recesses, whoever looks back 
on the gleaming surface of Brothers- water, or forward to the pre- 
cipitous sides and lofty ridges of Dove Crag, &c, will be equally 
pleased with the grandeur and the wildness of the scenery. 

Seven Glens or Valleys have been noticed, which branch off 
from the Cumberland side of the vale. The opposite side has 
only two streams of any importance, one of which would lead up 
from the point where it crosses the Kirkstone-road, near the 
foot of Brothers-water, to the decaying hamlet of Hartshop, re- 
markable for its cottage architecture, and thence to Hays- water, 
much frequented by anglers. The other, coming down Martin- 
dale, enters Ullswater at Sandwyke, opposite to Gowbarrow 
Park. No persons but such as come to Patterdale merely to 
pass through it, should fail to walk as far as Blowick, the only 
enclosed land which on this side borders the higher part of the 
lake. The axe has here indiscriminately levelled a rich wood 
of birches and oaks, that divided this favoured spot into a 
hundred pictures. It has yet its land-locked bays and rocky 
promontories ; but those beautiful woods are gone, which per- 
fected its seclusion ; and scenes, that m':ght formerly have been 
compared to an inexhaustible volume, are now spread before the 
eye in a single sheet, — magnificent indeed, but seemingly 
perused in a moment ! From Blowick a narrow track conducts 
along the craggy side of Place Fell, richly adorned with juniper, 
and sprinkled over with birches, to the village of Sandwyke, a 
few straggling houses, that, with the small estates attached to 
them, occupy an opening opposite to Lyulph's Tower and Gow- 
barrow Park. In Martindale, the road loses sight of the lake, 
and leads over a steep hill, bringing you again into view of 
Ullswater. Its lowest reach, four miles in length, is before 
you ; and the view terminated by the long ridge of Cross Fell 
in the distance. Immediately under the eye is a deep-indented 
bay, with a plot of fertile land, traversed by a small brook, and 
rendered cheerful by two or three substantial houses of a more 
ornamented and showy appearance than is usual in those wild 
spots. 



K 3 



94 

EXCURSION ON THE BANKS OF ULLSWATER. 

We are induced to subjoin an account of a short Excursion on 
the Banks of UJlswater, made at a time when it is seldom seen 
but by the inhabitants. As the journal was written for one 
acquainted with the general features of the country, only those 
effects and appearances are dwelt upon, which are produced by 
the changeableness of the atmosphere, or belong to the season 
when the excursion was made. 

A.D. 1805. — On the 7th of November, on a damp and gloomy 
morning, we left Grasmere Vale, intending to pass a few days 
on the banks of Ullswater. A mild and dry autumn had been 
unusually favourable to the preservation and beauty of foliage ; 
and, far advanced as the season was, the trees on the larger 
Island of Rydal-mere retained a splendour which did not need 
the heightening of sunshine. We noticed, as we passed, that 
the line of the grey rocky shore of that island, shaggy with 
variegated bushes and shrubs, and spotted and striped with 
purplish brown heath, indistinguishably blending with its image 
reflected in the still water, produced a curious resemblance, both 
in form and colour, to a richly-coated catterpillar, as it might 
appear through a magnifying glass of extraordinary power. The 
mists gathered as we went along : but, when we reached the top 
of Kirkstone, we were glad we had not been discouraged by the 
apprehension of bad weather. Though not able to see a hun- 
dred yards before us, w T e were more than contented. At such a 
time, and in such a place, every scattered stone the size of 
one's head becomes a companion. Near the top of the Pass is 
the remnant of an old wall, which (magnified, though obscured, 
by the vapour) might have been taken for a fragment of some 
monument of ancient grandeur, — yet that same pile of stones we 
had never before even observed. This situation, it must be 
allowed, is not favourable to gaiety ; but a pleasing hurry of 
spirits accompanies the surprise occasioned by objects trans- 
formed, dilated, or distorted, as they are when seen through 
such a medium. Many of the fragments of rock on the top and 
slopes of Kirkstone, and of similar places, are fantastic enough 
in themselves ; but the full effect of such impressions can only 
be had in a state of weather when they are not likely to be 
sought for. It was not till we had descended considerably that 
the fields of Hartshop were seen, like a lake tinged by the re- 



EXCURSION ON THE BANKS OF ULLSWATER. 95 

flection of sunny clouds : I mistook them for Brothers-water, 
but, soon after, we saw that lake gleaming faintly with a steelly 
brightness, — then, as we continued to descend, appeared the 
brown oaks, and the birches of lively yellow — and the cottages 
— and the lowly Hall of Hartshop, with its long roof and ancient 
chimneys. During great part of our way to Patterdale, we 
had rain, or rather drizzling vapour ; for there was never a drop 
upon our hair or clothes larger than the smallest pearl upon a 
lady's ring. 

The following morning, incessant rain till eleven o'clock, 
when the sky began to clear, and we walked along the eastern 
shore of Ulls water towards the farm of Bio wick. The wind 
blew strong, and drove the clouds forward, on the side of the 
mountain above our heads : — two storm-stiffened black yew-trees 
fixed our notice, seen through, or under the edge of, the flying 
mists, — four or five goats were bounding among the rocks ; — the 
sheep moved about more quietly, or cowered beneath their 
sheltering places. This is the only part of the country where 
goats are now found ;* but this morning, before we had seen 
these, I was reminded of that picturesque animal by two rams 
of mountain breed, both with Ammonian horns, and with beards 
majestic as that which Michael Angelo has given to his statue 
of Moses. — But to return ; when our path had brought us to 
that part of the naked common which overlooks the woods and 
bush-besprinkled fields of Blowick, the lake, clouds, and mists 
were all in motion to the sound of sweeping winds ; — the church 
and cottages of Patterdale scarcely visible, or seen only by fits 
between the shifting vapours. To the northward the scene was 
less visionary ; — Place Fell steady and bold ; — the whole lake 
driving onward like a great river — w r aves dancing round the 
small islands. The house at Blowick was the boundary of our 
walk ; and we returned, lamenting to see a decaying and un- 
comfortable dwelling in a place where sublimity and beauty 
seemed to contend with each other. But these regrets were 
dispelled by a glance on the woods that clothe the opposite 
steeps of the lake. How exquisite was the mixture of 
sober and splendid hues ! The general colouring of the trees 
was brown — rather that of ripe hazel nuts ; but towards 

* A.D. 1843, These also have disappeared. 



96 EXCURSION ON THE 

the water, there were yet beds of green, and in the highest 
parts of the wood, was abundance of yellow foliage, which, 
gleaming through a vapoury lustre, reminded us of masses of 
clouds, as you see them gathered together in the west, and 
touched with the golden light of the setting sun. 

After dinner we walked up the vale ; I had never had an idea 
of its extent and width in passing along the public road on the 
other side. We followed the path that leads from house to 
house ; two or three times it took us through some of those 
copses or groves that cover the little hillocks in the middle of 
the vale, making an intricate and pleasing intermixture of lawn 
and wood. Our fancies could not resist the temptation ; and we 
fixed upon a spot for a cottage, which we began to build, and 
finished as easily as castles are raised in the air. Visited the 
same spot in the evening. I shall say nothing of the moon-light 
aspect of the situation which had charmed us so much in the 
afternoon ; but I wish you had been with us when, in returning 
to our friend's house, we espied his lady's large white dog lying 
in the moon-shine upon the round knoll under the old yew-tree 
in the garden, a romantic image — the dark tree and its dark 
shadow — and the elegant creature, as fair as a spirit ! The tor- 
rents murmured softly: the mountains down which they were 
falling did not, to my sight, furnish a back-ground for this Ossia- 
nic picture ; but I had a consciousness of the depth of the seclu- 
sion, and that mountains were embracing us on all sides ; " I saw 
not, but I felt that they were there." 

Friday, November 9th. — Rain, as yesterday, till 10 o'clock, 
when we took a boat to row down the lake. The day improved ; 
clouds and sunny gleams on the mountains. In the large bay 
under Place Fell three fishermen were dragging a net, — pictur- 
esque group beneath the high and bare crags ! A raven was seen 
aloft ; not hovering like the kite, for that is not the habit of the 
bird, but passing on with a straight-forward perseverance, and 
timing the motion of its wings to its own croaking. The waters 
were agitated ; and the iron tone of the raven's voice, which 
strikes upon the ear at all times as the more dolorous from its 
regularity, was in fine keeping with the wild scene before our 
eyes. This carnivorous bird is a great enemy to the lambs of 
these solitudes ; I recollect frequently seeing, when a boy, 
bunches of unfledged ravens suspended from the church-yard 



BANKS OF ULLSWATEil. 97 

gates of H , for which a reward of so much a head was given 

to the adventurous destroyer. The fishermen drew their net 
ashore, and hundreds of fish were leaping in their prison. They 
were all of the kind called skellies, a sort of fresh-water herring, 
shoals of which may sometimes be seen dimpling or rippling the 
surface of the lake in calm weather. This species is not found, 
I believe, in any other of these lakes ; nor, as far as I know, is 
the chevin, that spiritless fish (though I am loth to call it so, 
for it was a prime favourite with Isaac Walton), which must fre- 
quent Ullswater, as I have seen a large shoal passing into the 
lake from the river Eamont. Htre are no pike, and the char 
are smaller than those of the other lakes, and of inferior quality ; 
but the grey trout attains a very large size, sometimes weighing 
above twenty pounds. This lordly creature seems to know that 
" retiredness is a piece of majesty ;" for it is scarcely ever caught, 
or even seen, except when it quits the depths of the lake in the 
spawning season, and runs up into the streams, where it is too 
often destroyed in disregard of the law of the land and of nature. 
Quitted the boat in the bay of Sandwyke, and pursued our 
way towards Martindale along a pleasant path — at first through 
a coppice bordering the lake, then through green fields — and 
came to the village (if village it may be called, for the houses are 
few and separated from each other), a sequestered spot, shut out 
from the view of the lake. Crossed the one-arched bridge, be- 
low the chapel, with its "bare ring of mossy wall," and single 
yew-tree. At the last house in the dale we were greeted by the 
master, who was sitting at his door, with a flock of sheep collect- 
ed round him, for the purpose of smearing them with tar (accord- 
ing to the custom of the season) for protection against the 
winter's cold. He invited us to enter, and view a room built by 
Mr. Hasell for the accommodation of his friends at the annual 
chase of red deer in his forests at the head of these dales. The 
room is fitted up in the sportsman's style, with a cup-board for 
bottles and glasses, strong chairs, and a dining- table ; and orna- 
mented with the horns of the stags caught at these hunts for a 
succession of years — the length of the last race each had run 
being recorded under his spreading antlers. The good woman 
treated us with oaten cake, new and crisp ; and after this wel- 
come refreshment and rest, we proceeded on our return to Pat- 
terdale by a short cut over the mountains. On leaving the 



98 EXCURSION ON THE 

fields of Sandwyke, while ascending by a gentle slope along the 
valley of Martindale, we had occasion to observe that in thinly- 
peopled glens of this character the general want of wood gives a 
peculiar interest to the scattered cottages embowered in syca- 
more. Towards its head, this valley splits into two parts ; and 
in one of these (that to the left) there is no house, nor any build- 
ing to be seen but a cattle-shed on the side of a hill, which is 
sprinkled over with trees, evidently the remains of an extensive 
forest. Near the entrance of the other division stands the house 
where we were entertained, and beyond the enclosures of that 
farm there are no other. A few old trees remain — relics of the 
forest ; a little stream hastens, though with serpentine windings, 
through the uncultivated hollo w T , where many cattle were pas- 
turing. The cattle of this country are generally white, or light- 
coloured ; but these were dark brown or black, w r hich heighten- 
ed the resemblance this scene bears to many parts of the High- 
lands of Scotland. While we paused to rest on the hill-side, though 
well contented with the quiet every-day sounds — the lowing of 
cattle, bleating of sheep, and the very gentle murmuring of the 
valley stream — we could not but think what a grand effect the 
music of the bugle-horn would have among these mountains. It 
is still heard once every year, at the chase I have spoken 
of ; a day of festivity for the inhabitants of this district, except 
the poor deer, the most ancient of them all. Our ascent, even 
to the top, was very easy ; when it was accomplished we had 
exceedingly fine views, some of the lofty fells being resplendent 
with sunshine, and others partly shrouded by clouds. Ulls water, 
bordered by black steeps, was of dazzling brightness ; the plain 
beyond Penrith smooth and bright, or rather gleamy, as the sea 
or sea sands. Looked down into Boardale, which, like Sty- 
barrow, has been named from the w T ild swine that formerly 
abounded here ; but it has now no sylvan covert, being smooth 
and bare, a long, narrow, deep, cradle-shaped glen, lying so 
sheltered that one would be pleased to see it planted by human 
hands, there being a sufficiency of soil ; and the trees would be 
sheltered almost like shrubs in a green-house. After having 
walked some way along the top of the hill, came in view r of 
Glenridding and the mountains at the head of Grisedale. — Before 
we began to descend, we turned aside to a small ruin, called at 
this day the chapel, where it is said the inhabitants of Martin- 



BANKS OF ULLEWATER. 99 

dale and Patterdale were accustomed to assemble for worship. 
There are now no traces from which you could infer for what 
use the building had been erected ; the loose stones, and the few 
that yet continue piled up, resemble those which lie elsewhere on 
the mountain ; but the shape of the building having been oblong, 
its remains differ from those of a common sheepfold ; and it has 
stood east and west. Scarcely did the Druids, when they fled to 
these fastnesses, perform their rites in any situation more exposed 
to disturbance from the elements. One cannot pass by without 
being reminded that the rustic psalmody must have had the ac- 
companiament of many a wildly -whistling blast ; and what dis- 
mal storms must have often drowned the voice of the preacher! 
As we descend, Patterdale opens upon the eye in grand sim- 
plicity, screened by mountains, and proceeding from two heads, 
Deepdale and Harfcshop, where lies the little lake of Brother- 
water, named in old maps Broader-water, and probably rightly 
so : for Bassenthwaite-mere at this day is familiarly called 
Broad-water ; but the change in the appellation of this small lake 
or pool (if it be a corruption) may have been assisted by some 
melancholy accident similar to what happened about twenty 
years ago, when two brothers were drowned there, having gone 
out to take their holiday pleasure upon the ice on a new-year'3 
day. 

A rough and precipitous peat-track brought us down to our 
friend's house. — Another fine moonlight night ; but a thick fog 
rising from the neighbouring river, enveloped the rocky and 
wood-crested knoll on which our fancy-cottage had been erec- 
ted ; and, under the damp cast upon my feelings, I consoled my- 
self with moralizing on the folly of hasty decisions in matters of 
importance, and the necessity of having at least one year's know- 
ledge of a place before you realise airy suggestions in solid stone. 

Saturday , November 10th. — At the breakfast- table, tidings 
reached us of the death of Lord Nelson, and of the victory at 
Trafalgar. Sequestered as we were from the sympathy of a 
crowd, we were shocked to hear that the bells had been ringing 
j oy ously at Penrith to celebrate the triumph . In the rebellion of the 
year 1745, people fled with their valuables from the open country 
to Patterdale, as a place of refuge secure from the incursions of 
strangers. At that time, news such as we had heard might 
have been long in penetrating so far into the recesses of the 



100 EXCURSION ON THE 

mountains ; but now, as you know, the approach is easy, and the 
communication, in summer time, almost hourly; nor is this 
strange, for travellers after pleasure are become not less active, 
and more numerous than those who formerly left their homes for 
purposes of gain. The priest on the banks of the remotest stream 
of Lapland will talk familiarly of Buonaparte's last conquests, and 
discuss the progress of the French Revolution, having acquired 
much of his information from adventurers impelled by curiosity 
alone. 

The morning was clear and cheerful after a night of sharp 
frost. At 10 o'clock we took our way on foot towards Pooley 
Bridge, on the same side of the lake we had coasted in a boat 
the day before. — Looked backwards to the south from our favou- 
rite station above Blowick. The dazzling sunbeams striking 
upon the church and village, while the earth was steaming with 
exhalations not traceable in other quarters, rendered their forms 
even more indistinct than the partial and flitting veil of unillu- 
mined vapour had done two days before. The grass on which 
we trod, and the trees in every thicket, were dripping with melt- 
ed hoar-frost. We observed the lemon-coloured leaves of the 
birches, as the breeze turned them to the sun, sparkle, or rather 
flashy like diamonds, and the leafless purple twigs were tipped 
with globes of shining crystal. 

The day continued delightful, and unclouded to the end. I 
will not describe the country which we slowly travelled through, 
nor relate our adventures: and will only add, that on the afternoon 
of the 13th we returned along the banks of Ullswater by the 
usual road. The lake lay in deep repose after the agitations of 
a wet and stormy morning. The trees in Gow barrow Park were 
in that state when what is gained by the disclosure of their bark 
and branches compensates, almost, for the loss of foliage, ex- 
hibiting the variety which characterises the point of time 
between autumn and winter. The hawthorns were leafless ; 
their round heads covered with rich green berries, and adorned 
with arches of green brambles, and eglantines hung with glossy 
hips ; and the grey trunks of some of the ancient oaks, which 
in the summer season might have been regarded only for their 
venerable majesty, now attracted notice by a pretty embellish- 
ment of green mosses and fern intermixed with russet leaves 
retained by those slender outstarting twigs which the veteran 



BANKS OF ULLSWATER. 101 

tree would not have tolerated in his strength. The smooth 
silver branches of the ashes were bare ; most of the alders as 
green as the Devonshire cottage- myrtle that weathers the snows 
of Christmas — Will you accept it as some apology for my having 
dwelt so long on the woodland ornaments of these scenes, 
that artists speak of the trees on the banks of Ullswater, and 
especially along the bays of Stybarrow crags, as having a pecu- 
liar character of picturesque intricacy in their stems and branches, 
which their rocky stations and the mountain winds have com- 
bined to give them. 

At the end of Gow r barrow Park a large herd of deer were 
either moving slowly or standing still among the fern. I was 
sorry when a chance-companion, w r ho had joined us by the way, 
startled them with a whistle, disturbing an image of grave sim- 
plicity and thoughtful enjoyment ; for I could have fancied that 
those natives of this wild and beautiful region were partaking 
with us a sensation of the solemnity of the closing day. The 
sun had been set some time ; and we could perceive that the 
light w r as fading away from the coves of Helvellyn, but the lake, 
under a luminous sky, was more brilliant than before. 

After tea at Patterdale, set out again : — a fine evening ; the 
seven stars close to the mountain top ; all the stars seemed 
brighter than usual. The steeps were reflected in Brothers- 
water, and above the lake appeared like enormous black perpen- 
dicular walls. The Kirkstone torrents had been swollen by the 
rains, and now filled the mountain pass with their roaring, which 
added greatly to the solemnity of our walk. Behind us, when 
we had climbed to a great height, we saw one light, very dis- 
tinct, in the vale, like a large red star — a solitary one in the 
gloomy region. The cheerfulness of the scene was in the sky 
above us. 

Reached home a little before midnight. 

Thus far Mr. Wordsworth. The following verses, from 
his Miscellaneous Poems, may be appropriately introduced 
here : — 



102 
OB 

THF PASS 07 RIRK.-TOXE. 
J. 

Within the mind afe ^ 

A deep delight the bosom (hail 
on as I pass along the fork 
Of tb< ul hiu, : 

Where, it?< .i, ire find 

ige of 1m;v 

Nor hint of 

not hii beodj -■• 
ning oogniiablj 
Mocki 

And I. 

( >r from | 

i Hut w here BO 1: r lit. 

Til. MP ■ 

N\ rin!. 

■ 
1 
< >n n hlch four tbooi - hare ga/. 

V«' plo i sparklin- -peal 

I - Iambi thai 

Imprisoned 'mi 

ip ! 
^ «• tree*, thai mej * Ball 

law as, i aa, and fu-lds, 

All t hat | 

Wag i rime, — 

Of life's aneaaj g 

Playthings that keep the eyes an 

Ol drow By, dotard '1' 

art ! o gaiM !- 

lit iv. 'mid liis own iinvexed do: 

\ g Bi dwells, tha hie 

At once all memory of Ton,— 
Ifbet potent when mists veil tin 
MistN that distort and magnify : 
While the eoarse rushes to the I 

Sigh forth their ancient melodi 



ODE. — THE TASS OF KIRKSTONE. 103 

3. 

List to those shriller notes!— that march 

Perchance was on the blast, 

When through this Height's* inverted arch. 

Rome's earliest legion passed ! 

— They saw, adventurously impelled, 

And older eyes than theirs beheld, 

This block— and von, whoM Church-like {• 

ttfl name. 
Aspiring Roadl that lov'st to hid* 
Thy daring in a vapoury bourn, 
Not seldom may the hour return 
When thou shall be mv Guide : 

And I 

"When Hfe II at ■ \vc;ir\ pi 

And we have panted up the hill 

Ofdntj with reluctant will 

Be thankful, ereo though tired and faint, 

Tor the rich DOl ' -n-traint ; 

Son 

That choice larked eouraf 



Mn ioo] was grateful for delight 

That H ON a threatening Dl 

light 

The scene that opens new '.' 
Though habitation DOne appear, 

The - telle man must be there; 

The shelter that the pea - 

ie clime in w hieh w I 
T.<il our- ilv rOUUd j 

Whei eare, end I 

In woodbine bower or birchen groi 

Inflicts his tender w mind. 

— Who eomee Dot nil -hall know 

Dow beautiful the world below : 
Nor can he gneee how Ughtlj l< 
The brook tdown the roei 

Farew ell thou desolate Domain ! 

Hope, pointing to the cultured Plain, 
Carols Like ■ shepherd be 

And who i- she? Can that be Joyl 

Who, with a sun-beam for her guide, 

-kirns the meadows wide; 
I 2 



104 HELVELLYN. 

"While Faith, from yonder opening cloud, 

To hill and vale proclaims aloud, 

" Whate'er the weak may dread, the wicked dare, 

Thy lot, O man, is good, thy portion fair !" 

BOTANICAL NOTICE. 
Thalictrum majus. — Ullswater. 



HELVELLYN. 

The altitude of Helvellyn is stated, according to the Ordnance 
Survey, to be 3055 feet above the level of the sea. From the 
different summits of this mountain, comprehensive views are ob- 
tained of several of the lakes, and the hills in every direction are 
thence seen under a more than usually picturesque arrangement. 

The ascent is frequently commenced from the inn at Wyth- 
burn, on the road from Ambleside to Keswick, the distance from 
that point being much less than from other places ; but the ac- 
clivity is too steep for a horse to keep his footing. From Pat- 
terdale, however, the ascent as far as Red Tarn, may, with a 
little management, be made on horseback, by taking the track 
up Grisedale, which is approached by a gate on the left, imme- 
diately after crossing Grisedale Bridge from the Inn. The road 
leads through the ancient farm-yard of Grasset How, and pro- 
ceeds, winding up the side of the hill, in the direction of Blea- 
berry Crag, an offshoot of Striding Edge, which it leaves on the 
left, and then strikes off by the foot of Red Tarn* to the stakes 
where horses are usually tied up while parties proceed to the 
summit. The road, now, is b^ ascending Swirrel Edge, a rocky 
projection of the mountain, crowned by the conical hill called 
Catchedecam, and a scramble of twenty minutes will place the 
traveller on the highest point of Helvellyn. Some persons are 
bold enough, in making the ascent, to traverse the giddy and 
dangerous height of Striding Edge, a sharp ridge forming the 
southern boundary of Red Tarn ; but this road ought not to be 
taken by any with weak nerves. The top in many places scarcely 

* * A cove, a huge recess, 

That keeps, till June, December's snow ; 
A lofty precipice in front, 
A silent tarn below !" 

Wordsworth's Fidelity. 



HELVELLYN. 105 

affords room to plant the foot, and is beset with awful precipices 
on either side. Some years ago, a stranger perished near this 
spot, by falling down the rocks in his attempt to cross over from 
Wythburn to Patterdale. See p. 92. 

The summit of the mountain is a smooth mossy plain, inclining 
gently to the west, but terminating abruptly by broken preci- 
pices on the east. There are on this mountain two piles of 
stones (Men, as they are called), about a quarter of a mile from 
each other, and from an angle in the hill between these the best 
view of the country northward is to be had. Skiddaw, with 
Saddleback on its right, first claims attention. Nearer the eye, 
lying in a hollow of the mountain, is Kepple Cove Tarn, bounded 
on the south by Swirrell Edge and Catchedecam. Further 
south, between the projecting masses of Swirrell Edge and 
Striding Edge, lies Red Tarn ; and beyond them nearly the 
whole of the middle and lower divisions of Ullswater are seen. 
On the eastern, or Westmorland, side of Ullswater, are Swarth- 
fell, Birk-fell, and Place-fell ; and over them, looking in a south- 
easterly direction, may be seen Kidsay Pike, High Street, and 
Hill Bell ; and still further south, and far distant from the eye, 
the broad top of Ingleborough is visible. Angle Tarn is seen 
reposing among the hills beyond Patterdale. On the Cumber- 
land side of the lake, Hallsteads, the residence of John Mar- 
shall, Esq., is delightfully situated; and at a greater distance, 
beyond Penrith, the ridge of Crossfell is stretched out. Look- 
ing south, having on the left St. Sunday's Crag, are Scandale 
fell, Fairfield, and Dolly Wagon Pike : over these summits 
appear the lakes of Windermere, Coniston, and Esthwaite, with 
the flat country extending southward to Lancaster. To the 
right of Dolly Wagon Pike is Seat Sandal, v/ith a patch of 
Loughrigg fell between them ; beyond may be descried the 
mountains of Coniston, with Black Comb in the distance. 
Langdale Pikes and Wrynose are seen beyond Steel fell ; and 
more to the right, over Wythburn head, Scawfell and the Pikes 
look down in majesty upon their more humble neighbours. 
Great End and Lingmel Crag project from the vast mass of 
mountains among which the Pikes on Scawfell stand unrivalled ; 
and nearer the eye, are the Borrowdale mountains, Glaramara, 
and Rosthwaite Cam being the most conspicuous. Great Gable 
rears his head on the right of the Pikes ; and more to the north 

l 3 



106 HELVELLYN. 

is Kirkfell, over which, on a clear day, the Isle of Man may be 
seen. Next succeeds the great cluster of mountains extending 
from Derwent Water to Ennerdale. The first range beyond 
the heights of Wythburn, are Gate Crag, Maiden Moor, and 
Cat Bells, all near Derwent Water ; and over these are Dale 
Head and Robinson. On the confines of Buttermere, are seen 
Honister Crag, Fleetwith, Haycocks, High Crag, High Stile, 
and Red Pike ; and still more remote, and north of the Pillar, 
the Ennerdale Haycocks. 

Whitelees Pike, Grassmoor, Cawsey Pike, and Grisedale 
Pike, all lie between the above range and the lake of Bassen- 
thwaite, a great part of which lake may be observed from Hel- 
vellyn, and beyond Bassenthwaite the distant plains of Cumber- 
land, with the summits of the Scottish mountains. Derwent 
Water is hid from view. 

A fine cool spring of water, called Brownrigg Well, which 
affords a refreshing draught at all seasons, will be found on the 
western side of the mountain, about 300 yards from its summit. 

Scawfell and Helvellyn being the two mountains of this region 
which will best repay the fatigue of ascending them, the follow- 
ing Verses may be here introduced with propriety. They arc 
from Mr. Wordsworth's Miscellaneous Poems. 



TO 



ON HER FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF HELVELLW. 

Inmate of a Mountain Dwelling, 
Thou hast clomb aloft, and gazed, 
From the watch towers of Helvellyn ; 
Awed, delighted, and amazed. 

Potent was the spell that bound thee 
Not unwilling to obey : 
For blue Ethers arms, flung round thee, 
Stilled the pantings of dismay. 

Lo ! the dwindled woods and meadows ! 
What a vast abyss is there ! 
Lo ! the clouds, the solemn shadows, 
And the glistenings — heavenly fair ! 



PENRITH. 107 



And a record of commotion 
Which a thousand ridges yield ; 
Ridge, and gulph, and distant ooean 
Gleaming like a silver shield ! 

— Take thy flight ; — possess, inherit 
Alps or Andes — they are thine ! 
With the morning's roseate Spirit, 
Sweep their length of snowy line ; 

Or survey the bright dominions 
In the gorgeous colours drest 
Flung from off the purple pinions, 
Evening spreads throughout the west ! 

Thine are all the coral fountains 
Warbling in each sparry vault 
Of the untroden lunar mountains ; 
Listen to their songs ! — or halt, 

To Niphate's top invited, 
Whither spiteful Satan steered : 
Or descend where the ark alighted, 
When the green earth re-appeared : 

For the power of hills is on thee, 
As was witnessed through thine eye 
Then, when old Helvellyn won thee 
To confess their majesty ! 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Saxifrage nivalis. — Helvellyn . 

, palmata. — Do. 

S.ujssurea alpina. — Do. 

Pyrola secunda. — Between Great Dod and Helvellyn. 

Salix herbacea. — Top of Helvellyn. 

J uncus triglumis. — West side of Helvellyn. 

Carex rigida. — Helvellyn. 

Rhodiola rosea. — Do. 

Alchemilla alpina. — Near the summit of do. 



PENRITH. 

Penrith is a neat and clean town, situated in a fertile valley, 
a mile from the confluence of the Eamont and Lowther, with a 
population of 5385. Market on Tuesday. It is a great thorough- 
fare, being at the junction of the two great roads from the 



108 PENRITH. 

south to Glasgow and Edinburgh. Penrith and the neighbour- 
hood abound in objects of antiquarian curiosity. In the church- 
yard there is a monument of great antiquity, called the Giant's 
grave, consisting of two stone pillars about ten feet high and 
fifteen feet asunder, and four large semicircular stones, two on 
each side of the grave, embedded in the earth. The common 
vulgar report is, that this is the tomb of Sir Ewan or Owen 
Caesarius, a gigantic warrior, who reigned in this country in the 
time of the Saxons. Near this monument there is another 
antique stone pillar, six feet high, called the Giant's Thumb. 
The Castle is an object of interest, and stands on the west side 
of the town. It was probably erected by the Neville family in 
the time of Richard II. as a defence for the inhabitants of the 
town from their Scottish enemies, and was dismantled in the 
time of the Commonwealth. The Beacon stands on the summit 
of a hill on the east side of the town, and is a most conspicuous 
and interesting object for some distance round Penrith. A 
curious relic of British antiquity, called Arthur s Round Table, is 
to be found about a mile south of the town, on the Westmorland 
side of the Eamont. It is a circular area twenty-nine yards in 
diameter, surrounded by a broad ditch and elevated mound, 
with two approaches cut through the mound opposite to each 
other. It is supposed to have been an arena for tournaments in 
the days of chivalry. A few hundred yards to the west of the 
Round Table is an elevation called Mai/burgh, on which is a 
circular enclosure one hundred yards in diameter, formed by a 
broad ridge of rounded stones heaped up to the height of fifteen 
feet. In the centre of the circle is a rude pillar of stone eleven 
feet high. This is believed to have been a place of Druidical 
judicature. There is a more remarkable monument, by some 
supposed of Druidical times, six miles north-east of Penrith, 
called Long Meg and her Daughter* It is situated on the 
summit of a hill near Little Salkeld and is a circle of three 
hundred and fifty yards in circumfernce formed by seventy-two 
stones, many of which are ten feet high, with one at the 
entrance eighteen feet high. Brougham Hall, the residence of 
Lord Brougham, stands on a gentle eminence one mile and a 
half to the south-east of Penrith, and from its situation and 

* See Scenery of the Lakes. 



LOWTHER CASTLE. 109 

beautiful prospects has been styled the u Windsor of the North." 
The majestic ruins of Brougham Castle stand on the south of 
the rivers Eamont and Lowther at their confluence, and are 
about a mile from Penrith. This castle was anciently the seat 
of the Veteriponts, and from them descended to the Cliffords 
and Tuftons : it still belongs to the Earl of Thanet. Camden 
supposes it to stand on site of the Roman Station Brovo- 
niacum. About two miles below Brougham Castle, on the 
rocky banks of the Eamont, are "two very singular grottos 
or excavations in a perpendicular rock, by a narrow ledge of 
which they are alone accessible. One of them is but a small 
narrow recess, but the other is more capacious, and appears 
to have had a door and window." It was formerly secured 
by iron gates, and the marks of iron grating and hinges 
are still observeable upon the rock. These grottos are called 
The Giant's Caves, or Isis Partis, and in Sandford's MS. 
Account of Cumberland it is said that Sir Hugh Caesario lived 
here, and " was buried in the north side of the church i' th' 
green field." Five miles from Penrith, near Plumpton, are the 
extensive ruins of Old Penrith, formerly a Roman Station, 
supposed by Camden to be Petriana, and by Horsley Br erne- 
tenracum. Inns, Crown and George. 

Lowther Castle, the magnificent residence of the Earl of 
Lonsdale, stands in an extensive park comprising six hundred 
acres of richly-wooded land, and is five miles south of Penrith. 
This noble structure is built of pale freestone, and combines the 
majestic effect of a fortification with the splendour of a regal 
abode. 

" Lowther ! in thy majestic Pile are seen 
Cathedral pomp and grace, in apt accord 
With the baronial castle's sterner mien ; 
Union significant of God adored, 
And charters won and guarded by the sword 
Of ancient honour ; whence that goodly state 
Of polity which wise men venerate, 
And will maintain, if God his help afford." 

The north and south fronts are of a widely different character, 
the former presenting the appearance of a castle, and the latter 
that of a cathedral, with pointed and mullioned windows, deli- 
cate pinnacles, niches and cloisters. The scene from this front 



110 



EXCURSIONS FROM FENRITH. 



" accords well with the solemn character of the edifice, being a 
lawn of emereld green and velvet smoothness, shut in by orna- 
mental trees and shrubs, and by timber of stately growth." The 
prospect from the north front is more extensive, and that from the 
great central tower is extremely grand. A high embattled wall 
surrounds the entrance court, which is approached through an 
arched gateway. The interior of the Castle is fitted up in a 
style of splendour corresponding with the richness of the exterior. 
The grand staircase has an imposing appearance, and the apart- 
ments are enriched with a vast quantity of massive plate, and 
contain several pictures of great value. The building of the 
Castle was commenced in 1802, from a design by Smirke. 
Through the liberality of the noble Proprietor it is allowed to 
be seen by visitors at all seasonable times on application at the 
lodge. 

If, during his tour, the Stranger has complained, as he will 
have had reason to do, of a want of majestic trees, he may be 
abundantly recompensed for his loss in the far-spreading woods 
which surround this mansion. Visitants, for the most part, see 
little of the beauty of these magnificent grounds, being content 
with the view from the Terrace ; but the whole course of the 
Lowther, from Askham to the bridge under Brougham Hall, 
presents almost at every step some new feature of river, wood- 
land, and rocky landscape. A portion of this tract has, from 
its beauty, acquired the name of the Elysian Fields ; — but the 
course of the stream can only be followed by the pedestrian.* 

BOTANICAL NOTICES. 

Epipactis ensifolia. — Woods at Lowther. 

grandifiora. — Woods at Lowther opposite Askham Hall. 



ISxcumcnts from Pntrttf). 

To the INN at PATTERDALE. 



1 £ The Cumberland road runs 

by Red Hills 1£ 

2J Dalemain 3| 

2 Junction with the Westmor- 

land road 5| 



If Watermillock 74- 

11 Hallsteads 8£ 

2\ Lyulph's Tower 11 

4 Inn at Patterdale 15 



* The woods about Lowther, and especially near the Mansion, 
suffered greatly by the hurricane which caused such general devasta- 
tion of the same kind on the 8th January, 1839. 



EXCURSIONS FROM PENRITH. 



Ill 



From PENRITH, on the "Westmorland side of the Eamont, to 
POOLEY BRIDGE, and thence on the northern side of Ullswater, 
to the INN at PATTERDALE. 



1 1 Over Eamont Bridge to 

Arthur's Round Table ... If 
4 J Pooley Bridge 5 J 



| Junction with the Cum- 
berland road 6£ 

91 Inn at Patter dale 15£ 



From PENRITH to HAWES WATES 

5 



5 Lowther, or Askham*... .. 
7 By Bampton* to Hawes 
Water 



12 



4 Return by Butterswick ... 16 

5 Over Moor Dovack to Powley 21 

6 By Dalemain to Penrith ... 27 



To SHAP ABBEY. 



5 Askham 

4 Bampton Church 
3 Shap Abbey ... , 



5 

9 

12 



1 Shap . 
11 Penrith 



13 
24 



Shap Abbey. — Of this once magnificent building, little more 
than the tower now remains. It was built by Thomas, son of 
Gospatrick, in the reign of King John, for the Canons of the 
Praemonstratentian Order, who had been first placed at Preston 
Patrick, near Kendal. In the neighbourhood of this Abbey is 
an area upwards of half a mile in length and twenty or thirty 
yards broad, formed by huge blocks of granite placed at a dis- 
tance of ten or twelve yards from each other. This stupendous 
monument of antiquity is called Carl Lofts, and is thought by 
Pennant to be of Danish origin. Dr. Burn supposes it to have 
been a Druidical Temple. It is now very much reduced, and can 
with difficulty be traced, owing to many of the stones having been 
broken up in clearing the ground for agricultural purposes. 



CIRCUITOUS WALK to EAMONT BRIDGE, ARTHUR'S 
ROUND TABLE, MAYBOROUGH, BROUGHAM HALL, 
COUNTESS' PILLAR, BROUGHAM CASTLE, and back to 
PENRITH. 



1 Eamont Bridge ... 1 

J Arthur's Round Table ... 1J 

J Mayborough _ 1£ 

\ Return to Arthur's Round 

Table If 

\ Lowther Bridge 2 

J Brougham Hall 2\ 

WALK to <the GIANT'S CAVE, on the Cumberland side of the 
Eamont, 3£ miles, 



1| Countess' Pillar, 50 yards 
beyond the third mile- 
stone 3-J 

| Brougham Castle 4£ 

\\ Over theBridge and through 

Carlton to Penrith 51 



112 



CARLISLE. 



To EDENHALL,iaRKOSWALD, NUNNERY, ARMATHWAITE, 
CORBY, and CARLISLE. 

3 Armathwaite Bridge 15£ 



1 Carleton 1 

3 Edenhall 4 

\ Langwathby 4£ 

2£ Long Meg and her Daugh- 
ters 7— 
3£ Kirkoswald lo| 

2 Nunnery 12J 



1 Walk from the bridge by 
Armathwaite Castle, one 
mile up the Eden ... 16 \ 
1 Return to the Bridge ... 17£ 

7 Corby 24* 

5 Carlisle, by Wetherall ... 29*" 



PENRITH to CARLISLE, Direct. 



5 Plumpton ... 
2 High Hesket . 
1J Low Hesket... 



5 

7 
8* 



7 Carleton 
2£ Carlisle . 



15J 

18 



CARLISLE. 

Carlisle, the capital of Cumberland, is an ancient city and 
"bishopric. It is situated within eight miles of the Scottish 
border, and is surrounded by a fertile and open country. ; Car- 
lisle was a Roman Station, and is within a mile of Hadrian's 
Wall. Tn the wars between England and Scotland it was a 
place of great importance. The town is well built, and many 
of the streets are very spacious. The Castle is said to have 
been built in the year 780, and some of the massive and antique 
buttresses on the north battery are ascribed to William Rufus. 
Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned here in 1568, but the 
rooms she occupied have been recently taken down. The 
Cathedral is a venerable structure, and the east window is said 
to be the largest, as it is certainly the finest, in the island. The 
new Jail is situated at the southern entrance of the city, con- 
tiguous to the County Court-houses, the principal features of 
which are two magnificent circular towers. A News Room, 
Reading and Coffee Rooms, have recently been erected from a 
design by Rickman and Hutchinson, of Birmingham, and are a 
great ornament to the city. There are extensive cotton works 
carried on here, and the steam-chimney of Messrs. Dixons' 
cotton -mills is a remarkable object for many miles round. 
Woollens, linens, and other articles are also manufactured here, 
and Carlisle is particularly celebrated for its whips and hats. 
Carlisle is within a few miles of the Solway, and is in communi- 



HEIGHTS OF LAKES AND WATERFALLS. 113 

cation with the Irish Channel by a ship-canal to Bowness, from 
which port steam-packets are constantly plying to Liverpool, 
Dublin, Belfast, &c. On the other hand, the Newcastle and 
Carlisle Railway connects the city of Carlisle with Newcastle, 
Sunderland, and the whole northern coast, so that it is the 
thoroughfare of the great interchange of merchandise between 
the east and west. Population, 21,354. Market on Wednesday 
and Saturday. Inns, Bush, Coffee House, and Victoria. 



Lanercost Priory, Naworth Castle, and Gillsland Spa, may be 
conveniently visited from Carlisle by Railway Conveyance. 



HEIGHTS OF LAKES ABOVE THE SEA. 

Feet 

Red Tarn (Helvellyn) 2400 

Sprinkling Tarn (Borrowdale) 1900 

Hawes Water 714 

Thrilmere 473 

Ullswater 460 

Derwent Water 288 

Crummock Water 260 

Bassenthwaite Water 210 

Esthwaite Water 198 

Grasmere 196 

Wast Water 160 

Windermere 116 

Coniston Water 105 



WATERFALLS. 

Feet 

Scale Force, near Bnttermere .. ... 160 

Col with Force, five miles from Ambleside 152 

St ockgill Force, near Ambleside 150 

Lodore Fall, near Keswick 150 

Barrow Cascade, near Keswick 122 

Dungeon Gill, Langdale 90 

Ara Force, Gowbarrow Park 80 

Rydal Fall, near Ambleside 70 

Birker Force, Eskdale Q5 

Stanley Gill, Eskdale 62 

Nunnery Fall, one mile from Kirkoswald 60 

Sour Milk Force, near Buttermere 60 

Howk, Caldbeck 50 

Skelwith Force 20 



114 

SYNOPTICAL VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF THE 
LAKE DISTRICT. 

Feet. 

Scawfell Pike, Cumberland ,,. 3166 

Scawfell, Cumberland 3100 

Helvellyn, Cumberland and Westmorland ... 3055 

Skiddaw, Cumberland ... 3022 

Fairfield, Westmorland 2950 

Great Gable, Cumberland 2925 

Bowfell, Westmorland ..2914 

Rydal Head, Westmorland 2910 

Pillar, Cumberland 2893 

Saddleback 2787 

Grasmoor, Cumberland... 2756 

Red Pike, Cumberland 2750 

High Street, Westmorland 2700 

Grisedale Pike, Cumberland 2680 

Coniston Old Man, Lancashire 2577 

Hill Bell, Westmorland 2500 

KyS^^lWd^Hl^W-tmorhad *«> 

Carrock Fell, Cumberland 2110 

High Pike, Caldbeck Fells, Cumberland ... 2101 

Causey Pike, Cumberland 2030 

Black Comb, Cumberland 1919 

Lord's Seat, Cumberland 1728 

Wansfell, Westmorland 1590 

Whinf ell Beacon, near Kendal, Westmorland 1500 

Cat Bell, Cumberland 1448 

Latrigg, Cumberland 1160 

Dent Hill, Cumberland 1110 

Loughrigg Fell, Westmorland 1108 

Benson Knott, near Kendal, Westmorland ... ... ... 1098 

Penrith Beacon, Cumberland 1020 

Mell Fell, Cumberland 1000 

Kendal Fell, Westmorland 648 

Scilly Bank, near Whitehaven, Cumberland 500 

MOUNTAIN PASSES. 

Sty Head, Cumberland ." ... 1250 

Haws between Buttermere dale and Newlands, Cumb. 1160 
Haws between Buttermere and Borrowdale, Cumb. ... 1100 
Dunmail Raise, Cumberland and Westmorland 720 



DESCRIPTION 



SCENERY OF THE LAKES. 



DESCRIPTION 

OF THE 

SCENERY OF THE LAKES. 

SECTION FIRST. 

VIEW OF THE COUNTRY AS FORMED BY NATURE. 

At Lucerne, in Switzerland, is shewn a Model of the Alpine 
country which encompasses the Lake of the four Cantons. The 
Spectator ascends a little platform, and sees mountains, lakes, 
glaciers, rivers, woods, waterfalls, and valleys, with their cot- 
tages, and every other object contained in them, lying at his 
feet ; all things being represented in their appropriate colours. 
It may be easily conceived that this exhibition affords an exqui- 
site delight to the imagination, tempting it to wander at will 
from valley to valley, from mountain to mountain, through the 
deepest recesses of the Alps. But it supplies also a more sub- 
stantial pleasure ; for the sublime and beautiful region, with all 
its hidden treasures, and their bearings and relations to each 
other, is thereby comprehen.ded and understood at once. 

Something of this kind, without touching upon minute details 
and individualities which would only confuse and embarrass, will 
here be attempted, in respect to the Lakes in the North of 
England, and the vales and mountains enclosing and surrounding 
them. The delineation, if tolerably executed, will, in some 
instances, communicate to the traveller, who has already seen 
the objects, new information ; and will assist in giving to his 
recollections a more orderly arrangement than his own oppor- 
tunities of observing may have permitted him to make ; while it 
will be still more useful to the future traveller, by directing his 
attention at once to distinctions in things which, without such 
previous aid, a length of time only could enable him to discover. 
It is hoped, also, that this Essay may become generally service- 

m 3 



118 VALES DIVERGING FROM 

able, by leading to habits of more exact and considerate observa- 
tion than, as far as the writer knows, have hitherto been applied 
to local scenery. 

To begin, then, with the main outlines of the country : — I 
know not how to give the reader a distinct image of these more 
readily, than by requesting him to place himself with me ; in 
imagination, upon some given point ; let it be the top of either 
of the mountains, Great Gable, or Scawfell ; or, rather, let us 
suppose our station to be a cloud hanging midway between those 
two mountains, at not more than half a mile's distance from the 
summit of each, and not many yards above their highest eleva- 
tion ; we shall then see stretched at our feet a number of valleys, 
not fewer than eight, diverging from the point on which we are 
supposed to stand, like spokes from the nave of a wheel. Firsts 
we note, lying to the south-east, the vale of Langdale,* which 
will conduct the eye to the long lake of Winandermere, stretching 
nearly to the sea ; or rather to the sands of the vast bay of 
Morecambe, serving here for the rim of this imaginary wheel : 
let us trace it in a direction from the south-east towards the south, 
and we shall next fix our eyes upon the vale of Coniston, running 
up likewise from the sea, but not (as all the other valleys do) to 
the nave of the wheel, and therefore it may be not inaptly re- 
presented as a broken spoke sticking in the rim. Looking forth 
again, with an inclination towards the west, we see immediately 
at our feet the vale of Duddon, in which is no lake, but a copious 
stream winding among fields, rocks, and mountains, and termi- 
nating its course in the sands of Duddon. The fourth vale, next 
to be observed, viz. that of the Esk, is of the same general cha- 
racter as the last, yet beautifully discriminated from it by pecu- 
liar features. Its stream passes under the woody steep upon 
w r hich stands Muncaster Castle, the ancient seat of the Penning- 
tons, and after forming a short and narrow asstuary enters the 
sea below the small town of Ravenglass. Next, almost due west, 
look down into, and along the deep valley of Wastdale, with its 
little chapel and half a dozen neat dwellings scattered upon a 
plain of meadow and corn-ground intersected with stone walls 

* Anciently spelt Langden, and so called by the old inhabitants to 
this day — dean, from which the latter part of the word is derived, being 
in many parts of England a name for a valley. 



A COMMON CENTRE. 119 

apparently innumerable, like a large piece of lawless patchwork, 
or an array of mathematical figures, such as in the ancient 
schools of geometry might have been sportively and fantastically 
traced out upon sand. Beyond this little fertile plain lies, within 
a bed of steep mountains, the long, narrow, stern, and desolate 
lake of Wastdale ; and, beyond this, a dusky tract of level ground 
conducts the eye to the Irish Sea. The stream that issues from 
Wastwater is named the Irt, and falls into the sestuary of the 
river Esk. Next comes in view Ennerdale, with its lake of bold 
and somewhat savage shores. Its stream, the Ehen or Enna, 
flowing through a soft and fertile country, passes the town of 
Egremont and the ruins of the castle, — then, seeming, like the 
other rivers, to break through the barrier of sand thrown up by 
the winds on this tempestuous coast, enters the Irish Sea. The 
vale of Buttermere, with the lake and village of that name, and 
Crummock-water, beyond, next present themselves. We will 
follow the main stream, the Cocker, through the fertile and beau- 
tiful vale of Lorton, till it is lost in the Derwent, below the noble 
ruins of Cockermouth Castle. Lastly, Borrowdale, of which 
the vale of Keswick is only a continuation, stretching due north, 
brings us to a point nearly opposite to the vale of Winander- 
mere, with which we began. From this it will appear, that the 
image of a wheel, thus far exact, is little more than one half 
complete : but the deficiency on the eastern side may be supplied 
by the vales of Wythburn, Ulls water, Haweswater, and the vale 
of Grasmere and Bydal ; none of these, however, run up to the 
central point between Great Gable and Scawfell. 

From this, hitherto our central point, let us take a flight of not 
more than four or five miles eastward to the ridge of Helvellyn, and 
we shall look down upon Wythburn and St. John's Vale, which are 
a branch of the vale of Keswick ; upon Ullswater, stretching due 
east ; and not far beyond to the south-east (though from this point 
not visible) lie the vale and lake of Haweswater ; and lastly, the 
vale of Grasmere, Rydal, and Ambleside, brings us back to Winan- 
dermere, thus completing, though on the eastern side in a some- 
what irregular manner, the representative figure of the wheel. 

Such, concisely given, is the general topographical view of 
the country of the Lakes in the north of England ; and it may 
be observed that, from the circumference to the centre, that is, 
from the sea, or plain country, to the mountain stations specified, 



120 VALES DIVERGING FROM A COMMON CENTRE. 

there is — in the several ridges that enclose these vales and divide 
them from each other, I mean in the forms and surfaces, first 
of the swelling grounds, next of the hills and rocks, and lastly of 
the mountains — an ascent of almost regular gradation, from ele- 
gance and richness, to their highest point of grandeur and sub- 
limity. It follows, therefore, from this, first, that these rocks, 
hills, and mountains, must present themselves to view in stages 
rising above each other, the mountains clustering together to- 
wards the central point ; and next, that an observer familiar 
with the several vales must, from their various positions in re- 
lation to the sun, have had before his eyes every possible embel- 
lishment of beauty, dignity, and splendour, which light and 
shadow can bestow upon objects so diversified. For example, 
in the vale of Winandermere, if the spectator looks for gentle 
and lovely scenes, his eye is turned towards the south ; if for the 
grand, towards the north : in the vale of Keswick, which (as 
hath been said) lies almost due north of this, it is directly the 
reverse. Hence, when the sun is setting in summer far to the 
north-west, it is seen, by the spectator from the shores or breast 
of Winandermere, resting among the summits of the loftiest 
mountains, some of which will perhaps be half or wholly hidden 
by clouds, or by the blaze of light which the orb diffuses around 
it ; and the surface of the lake will reflect before the eye cor- 
responding colours through every variety of beauty, and through 
all degrees of splendour. In the vale of Keswick, at the same 
period, the sun sets over the humbler regions of the landscape, 
and showers down upon them the radiance which at once veils 
and glorifies, — sending forth, meanwhile, broad streams of rosy, 
crimson, purple, or golden light, towards the grand mountains in 
the south and south-east, which, thus illuminated, with all their 
projections and cavities, and with an intermixture of solemn 
shadows, are seen distinctly through a cool and clear atmosphere. 
Of course, there is as marked a difference between the noontide 
appearance of these two opposite vales. The bedimming haze 
that overspreads the south, and the clear atmosphere and deter- 
mined shadows of the clouds in the north, at the same time of 
the day, are each seen in these several vales, with a contrast as 
striking. The reader will easily conceive in what degree the 
intermediate vales partake of a kindred variety. 

I do not indeed know any tract of country in which, within so 



MOUNTAINS. 121 

narrow a compass, may be found an equal variety in the influences 
of light and shadow upon the sublime or beautiful features of 
landscape ; and it is owing to the combined circumstances to 
which the reader's attention has been directed. From a point 
between Great Gable and Scawfell, a shepherd would not require 
more than an hour to descend into any one of eight of the prin- 
cipal vales by which he would be surrounded ; and all the others 
lie (with the exception of Haweswater) at but a small distance. 
Yet, though clustered together, every valley has its distinct and 
separate character : in some instances, as if they had been form- 
ed in studied contrast to each other, and in others with the 
united pleasing differences and resemblances of a sisterly rival- 
ship. This concentration of interest gives to the country a 
decided superiority over the most attractive districts of Scotland 
and Wales, especially for the pedestrian traveller. In Scotland 
and Wales are found, undoubtedly, individual scenes, which, in 
their several kinds, cannot be excelled. But, in Scotland, par- 
ticularly, what long tracts of desolate country intervene ! so that 
the traveller, when he reaches a spot deservedly of great cele- 
brity, would find it difficult to determine how much of his plea- 
sure is owing to excellence inherent in the landscape itself ; and 
how much to an instantaneous recovery from an oppression left 
upon his spirits by the barrenness and desolation through which 
he has passed. 

But to proceed with our survey ; and, first, of the Mountains. 
Their forms are endlessly diversified, sweeping easily or boldly in 
simple majesty, abrupt and precipitous, or soft and elegant. In 
magnitude and grandeur they are individually inferior to the most 
celebrated of those in some other parts of this island ; but, in 
the combinations which they make, towering above each other, 
or lifting themselves in ridges like the waves of a tumultuous sea, 
and in the beauty and variety of their surfaces and colours, they 
ai«3 surpasseo^y none. 

The general surface of the mountains is turf, rendered rich 
and green by the moisture of the climate. Sometimes the turf, 
as in the neighbourhood of Newlands, is little broken, the whole 
covering being soft and downy pasturage. In other places, rocks 
predominate ; the soil is laid bare by torrents and burstings of 
water from the sides of the mountains in heavy rains ; and not 
unfrequently their perpendicular sides are seamed by ravines 



122 MOUNTAINS. 

(formed also by rains and torrents), which, meeting in angular 
points, entrench and scar the surface with numerous figures like 
the letters W and Y. 

In the ridge that divides Eskdale from Wastdale, granite is 
found ; but the mountains are for the most part composed of the 
stone by mineralogists termed schist, which, as you approach the 
plain country, gives place to limestone and freestone ; but schist 
being the substance of the mountains, the predominant colour of 
their rocky parts is bluish, or hoary grey — the general tint of the 
lichens with which the bare stone is encrusted. With this blue 
or grey colour is frequently intermixed a red tinge, proceeding 
from the iron that interveins the stone and impregnates the soil. 
The iron is the principle of decomposition in these rocks ; and 
hence, when they become pulverized, the elementary particles 
crumbling down, overspread in many places the steep and almost 
precipitous sides of the mountains with an intermixture of colours, 
like the compound hues of a dove's neck. When in the h< 
advancing summer, the fresh green tint of the herbage has some- 
what faded, it is again revived by the appearance of the fern 
profusely spread over the same ground : ami, upon this plant, 
more than upon any thing else, do the changes which the M 
make in the colouring of the mountains depend. About the first 
week in October, the rich green, which prevailed thruugh the whole 
summer, is usually passed away. The brilliant and various colours 
of the fern are then in harmony with the autumnal uoods ; bright 
yellow or lemon colour, at the base of the mountains, melting 
gradually, through orange, to a dark russet brown towards the 
summits, where the plant, being more exposed to the weather, 
is in a more advanced state of decay. Neither heath nor furze 
are generally found upon the sides of these mountains, though 
in many places they are adorned by those plants, so beautiful 
when in flower. We may add, that the mountains are of height 
sufficient to have the surface towards the summit softened by 
distance, and to imbibe the finest aerial hues. In common also 
with other mountains, their apparent forms and colours are per- 
petually changed by the clouds and vapours which rloat round 
them: the effect indeed of mist or haze, in a country of this charac- 
ter, is like that of magic. I have seen six or seven ridges 
rising above each other, all created in a moment by the vapours 
upon the side of a mountain, which, in its ordinary appearance. 



WINTER COLOURING. 123 

shewed not a projecting point to furnish even a hint for such an 
operation. 

I will take this opportunity of observing, that they who have 
studied the appearances of nature feel that the superiority, in point 
of visual interest, of mountainous over other countries — is more 
strikingly displayed in winter than in summer. This, as must be 
obvious, is partly owing to the forms of the mountains, which, 
of course, are not affected by the seasons ; but also, in no small 
degree, to the greater variety that exists in their winter than their 
summer colouring. This variety is such, and so harmoniously 
preserved, that it leaves little cause of regret when the splendour 
of autumn is passed away. The oak coppices, upon the sides of 
the mountains, retain russet leaves ; the birch stands conspicu- 
ous with its silver stem and puce-coloured twigs ; the hollies, 
with green leaves and scarlet berries, have come forth to view 
from among the deciduous trees, whose summer-foliage had con- 
cealed them : the ivy is now plentifully apparent upon the stems 
and boughs of the trees, and upon the steep rocks. In place of 
the deep summer-green of the herbage and fern, many rich 
colours play into each other over the surface of the mountains ; 
turf (the tints of which are interchangeably tawny-green, olive, 
and brown), beds of withered fern, and grey rocks, being har- 
moniously blended together. The mosses and lichens are never 
so fresh and flourishing as in winter, if it be not a season of frost ; 
and their minute beauties prodigally adorn the foreground. 
Wherever we turn, we find these productions of nature, to which 
winter is rather favourable than unkindly, scattered over the 
walls, banks of earth, rocks, and stones, and upon the trunks of 
trees, with the intermixture of several species of small fern, now 
green and fresh ; and, to the observing passenger, their forms 
and colours are a source of inexhaustible admiration. Add to 
this the hoar-frost and snow, with all the varieties they create, 
and which volumes would not be sufficient to describe. I will 
content myself with one instance of the colouring produced by 
snow, which may not be uninteresting to painters. It is extract- 
ed from the memorandum-book of a friend ; and for its accuracy 
I can speak, having been an eye-witness of the appearance. 4< I 
observed," says he, " the beautiful effect of the drifted snow 
upon the mountains, and the perfect tone of colour. From the 
top of the mountains downwards, a rich olive was produced by the 



124 VALES. 

powdery snow and the grass, w T hich olive was warmed with a 
little brown, and in this way harmoniously combined, by insen- 
sible gradations, with the w r hite. The drifting took away the 
monotony of snow ; and the whole vale of Grasmere, seen from 
the terrace walk in Easedale, was as varied, perhaps more so, 
than even in the pomp of autumn. In the distance was Lough - 
rigg Fell, the basin-waH of the lake : this, from the summit 
downward, was a rich orange-olive ; then the lake of a bright 
olive-green, nearly the same tint as the snow-powdered mountain 
tops and high slopes in Easedale ; and lastly, the church, with its 
firs, forming the centre of the view. Next to the church came 
nine distinguishable hills, six of them with woody sides turned 
towards us, all of them oak copses with their bright red leaves 
and snow-powdered twigs ; these hills — so variously situated in 
relation to each other, and to the view in general, so variously 
powdered, some only enough to give the herbage a rich brown 
tint, one intensely white and lighting up all the others — were yet 
so placed, as in the most inobtrusive manner to harmonise by con- 
trast with a perfect naked, snowless, bleak summit in the far 
distance." 

Having spoken of the forms, surface, and colour of the moun- 
tains, let us descend into the Vales. Though these have been 
represented under the general image of the spokes of a wheel, 
they are, for the most part, winding ; the windings of many 
being abrupt and intricate. And, it may be observed, that, in 
one circumstance, the general shape of them all has been deter- 
mined by that primitive conformation through which so many be- 
came receptacles of lakes. For they are not formed, as are 
most of the celebrated Welch valleys, by an approximation of the 
sloping bases of the opposite mountains towards each other, leav- 
ing little more between than a channel for the passage of a hasty 
river ; but the bottom of these valleys is mostly a spacious and 
gently declining area, apparently level as the floor of a temple, 
or the surface of a lake, and broken in many cases, by rocks and 
hills, which rise up like islands from the plain. In such of the 
valleys as may make windings, these level areas open upon the 
traveller in succession, divided from each other sometimes by a 
mutual approximation of the hills, leaving only passage for a 
river, sometimes by correspondent windings, without such ap- 
proximation ; and sometimes by a bold advance of one mountain 



LAKES. 125 

to that which is opposite it. It may here be observed with pro- 
priety that the several rocks and hills, which have been describ- 
ed as rising up like islands from the level area of the vale, have 
regulated the choice of the inhabitants in the situation of their 
dwellings. Where none of these are found, and the inclination 
of the ground is not sufficiently rapid easily to carry off the wa- 
ters, (as in the higher part of Langdale, for instance,) the houses 
are not sprinkled over the middle of the vales, but confined to 
their sides, being placed merely so far up the mountain as to be 
protected from the floods. But where these rocks and hills have 
been scattered over the plain of the vale, (as in Grasmere, Don- 
nerdale, Eskdale, &c.) the beauty they give to the scene is 
much heightened by a single cottage, or cluster of cottages, 
that will be almost always found under them, or upon their sides; 
dryness and shelter having tempted the dalesmen to fix their 
habitations there. 

I shall now speak of the Lakes of this country. The form of 
the lake is most perfect when, like Derwent-water, and some of 
the smaller lakes, it least resembles that of a river ; — I mean, 
when being looked at from any given point where the whole may 
be seen at once, the width of it bears such proportion to the 
length, that, however the outline may be diversified by far- 
receding bays, it never assumes the shape of a river, and is con- 
templated with that placid and quiet feeling which belongs pe- 
culiarly to the lake — as a body of still water under the influence 
of no current ; reflecting therefore the clouds, the light, and all 
the imagery of the sky and surrounding hills ; expressing also and 
making visible the changes of the atmosphere, and motions of 
the lightest breeze, and subject to agitation only from the winds, 



-The visible scene 



Would enter unawares into his mind 
With all its solemn imager}', its rocks, 
Its woods, and that uncertain heaven received 
Into the bosom of the steady lake ! 

It must be noticed, as a favourable characteristic of the lakes of 
this country, that, though several of the largest, such as Winan- 
dermere, Ullswater, Haweswater, do, when the whole length of 
them is commanded from an elevated point, lose somewhat of 
the peculiar form of the lake, and assume the resemblance of a 



126 LAKES. 

magnificent river ; yet, as their shape is winding, (particularly 
that of Ullswater and Haweswater) when the view of the whole 
is obstructed by those barriers which determine the windings, 
and the spectator is confined to one reach, the appropriate feeling 
is revived ; and one lake may thus in succession present to the 
eye the essential characteristic of many. But, though the forms 
of the large lakes have this advantage, it is nevertheless favour- 
able to the beauty of the country that the largest of them are 
comparatively small ; and that the same vale generally furnishes a 
succession of lakes, instead of being filled with one. The vales in 
North Wales, as hath been observed, are not formed for the re- 
ception of lakes ; those of Switzerland, Scotland, and this part 
of the North of England, are so formed ; but, in Switzerland 
and Scotland, the proportion of diffused water is often too great, 
as at the lake of Geneva for instance, and in most of the Scotch 
lakes. No doubt it sounds magnificent and flatters the imag- 
ination, to hear at a distance, of expanses of water so many 
leagues in length and miles in width ; and such ample room may 
be delightful to the fresh-water sailor, scudding with a lively 
breeze amid the rapidly-shifting scenery. But, who ever travel- 
led along the banks of Loch-Lomond, variegated as the lower 
part is by islands, without feeling that a speedier termination of 
the long vista of blank water would be acceptable ; and without 
wishing for an interposition of green meadows, trees, and cot- 
tages, and a sparkling stream to run by his side ? In fact, a 
notion of grandeur, as connected with magnitude, has seduced 
persons of taste into a general mistake upon this subject. It is 
much more desirable, for the purpose of pleasure, that lakes 
should be numerous, and small or middle-sized, than large, not 
only for communication by walks and rides, but for variety, and 
for recurrence of similar appearances. To illustrate this by one 
instance : how pleasing is it to have a ready and frequent oppor- 
tunity of watching, at the outlet of a lake, the stream pushing 
its way among the rocks in lively contrast with the stillness from 
which it has escaped ; and how amusing to compare its noisy and 
turbulent motions with the gentle playfulness of the breezes, 
that may be starting up or wandering here and there over the 
faintly-rippled surface of the broad water ! I may add, as a 
general remark, that, in lakes of great width, the shores cannot 
be distinctly seen at the same time, and therefore contribute 



LAKES. 127 

little to mutual illustration and ornament ; and, if the opposite 
shores are out of sight of each other, like those of the American 
and Asiatic lakes, then unfortunately the traveller is reminded 
of a nobler object ; he has the blankness of a sea-prospect with- 
out the grandeur and accompanying sense of power. 

As the comparatively small size of the lakes in the North of 
England is favourable to the production of variegated landscape, 
their boundary-line also is for the most part gracefully or boldly 
indented. That uniformity which prevails in the primitive 
frame of the lower grounds among all chains or clusters 
of mountains where large bodies of still water are bedded, is 
broken by the secondary agents of nature, ever at work to 
supply the deficiencies of the mould in w r hich things were 
originally cast. Using the word deficiencies^ I do not speak 
with reference to those stronger emotions which a region of moun- 
tains is peculiarly fitted to excite. The bases of those huge 
barriers may run for a long space in straight lines, and these 
parallel to each other ; the opposite sides of a profound vale 
may ascend as exact counterparts, or in mutual reflection, 
like the billows of a troubled sea ; and the impression be, from 
its very simplicity, more awful and sublime. Sublimity is the 
result of Nature's first great dealings with the superficies of the 
earth ; but the general tendency of her subsequent operations is 
towards the production of beauty ; by a multiplicity of symme- 
trical parts uniting in a consistent whole. This is every where 
exemplified along the margins of these lakes. Masses of rock, 
that have been precipitated from the heights into the area of 
waters, lie in some places like stranded ships ; or have acquired 
the compact structure of jutting piers ; or project in little penin- 
sulas crested with native wood. The smallest rivulet — one 
whose silent influx is scarcely noticeable in a season of dry 
weather — so faint is the dimple made by it on the surface of 
the smooth lake — will be found to have been not useless in 
shaping, by its deposits of gravel and soil in time of flood, 
a curve that would not otherwise have existed. But the more 
powerful brooks, encroaching upon the level of the lake, have, 
in course of time, given birth to ample promontories of sweeping 
outline that contrast boldly with the longitudinal base of the 
steeps on the opposite shore ; while their flat or gently-sloping 
surfaces never fail to introduce, into the midst of desolation and 

n 2 



128 LAKES — WATER-FOWL. 

barrenness, the elements of fertility, even where the habitations 
of men may not have been raised. These alluvial promontories, 
however, threaten, in some places, to bisect the waters which 
they have long adorned ; and, in course of ages, they will cause 
some of the lakes to dwindle into numerous and insignificant 
pools ; which, in their turn, will finally be filled up. But, 
checking these intrusive calculations, let us rather be content 
with appearances as they are, and pursue in imagination the 
meandering shores ; whether rugged steeps, admitting of no 
cultivation, descend into the water, or gently-sloping lawns and 
woods, or flat and fertile meadows stretch between the margin 
of the lake and the mountains. Among minuter recommenda- 
tions, will be noticed, especially along bays exposed to the 
setting-in of strong winds, the curved rim of fine blue gravel, 
thrown up in course of time by the waves, half of it perhaps 
gleaming from under the water, and the corresponding half of a 
lighter hue ; and in other parts bordering the lake, groves, if I 
may so call them, of reeds and bulrushes ; or plots of water- 
lilies lifting up their large target-shaped leaves to the breeze, 
while the white flower is heaving upon the wave. 

To these may naturally be added the birds that enliven the 
waters. Wild ducks in spring-time hatch their young in the 
islands, and upon reedy shores ; — the sand-piper, flitting along 
the stony margins, by its restless note attracts the eye to motions 
as restless : — upon some jutting rock, or at the edge of a smooth 
meadow, the stately heron may be descried with folded winsrs, 
that might seem to have caught their delicate hue from the blue 
waters, by the side of which she watches for her sustenance. 
In winter, the lakes are sometimes resorted to by wild swans : 
and in that season habitually by widgeons, goldings, and other 
aquatic fowl of the smaller species. Let me be allowed the aid of 
verse to describe the evolutions which these visitants sometimes 
perform, on a fine day towards the close of winter. 

Mark how the feather 'd tenants of the flood, 

With grace of motion that might scarcely seem 

Inferior to angelical, prolong 

Their curions pastime ! shaping in mid air 

(And sometimes with ambitions wing that soars 

High as the level of the mountain tops,) 

A circuit ampler than the lake beneath, 



ISLANDS. 129 

Their own domain ; — but ever, while intent 

On tracing and retracing that large round, 

Their jubilant activity evolves 

Hundreds of curves and circlets, to and fro, 

Upward and downward, progress intricate 

Yet perplex'd, as if one spirit swayed 

Their indefatigable flight. — 'Tis done — 

Ten times, or more, I fancied it had ceased ; 

But lo ! the vanish'd company again 

Ascending ; — they approach — I hear their wings 

Faint, faint, at first, and then an eager sound 

Past in a moment — and as faint again ! 

They tempt the sun to sport amid their plumes : 

They tempt the water or the gleaming ice, 

To shew them a fair image ; — 'tis themselves, 

Their own fair forms, upon the glimmering plain, 

Painted more soft and fair as they descend 

Almost to touch ;— then up again aloft, 

Up with a sally and a flash of speed, 

As if they scorn' d both resting-place and rest ! 

The Islands, dispersed among these lakes, are neither so 
numerous nor so beautiful as might be expected from the account 
that has been given of the manner in which the level areas of 
the vales are so frequently diversified by rocks, hills, and hillocks, 
scattered over them ; nor are they ornamented (as are several 
of the lakes in Scotland and Ireland) by the remains of castles or 
other places of defence ; nor with the still more interesting ruins 
of religious edifices. Every one must regret that scarcely a 
vestige is left of the Oratory, consecrated to the Virgin, which 
stood upon Chapel-Holm, in Winandermere, and that the 
Chantry has disappeared, where mass used to be sung, upon 
St. Herbert's Island, Derwentwater. The islands of the last- 
mentioned lake are neither fortunately placed nor of pleasing 
shape ; but if the wood upon them were managed with more 
taste, they might become interesting features in the landscape. 
There is a beautiful cluster on Winandermere ; a pair pleasingly 
contrasted upon Rydal : nor must the solitary green island of 
Grasmere be forgotten. In the bosom of each of the lakes of 
Ennerdale and Devock water is a single rock, which, owing to 
its neighbourhood to the sea, is — 

" The haunt of cormorants and sea-mew's clang." 
N 3 



1 30 ISLANDS — TARNS. 

a music well suited to the stern and wild character of the several 
scenes. It may be worth while here to mention (not as an 
object of beauty, but of curiosity), that there occasionally 
appears above the surface of Derwent water, and always in the 
same place, a considerable tract of spongy ground covered 
with aquatic plants, which is called the Floating, but with more 
propriety might be named the Buoyant, Island ; and, on one of 
the pools near the lake of Esthwaite, may sometimes be seen 
a mossy Islet, with trees upon it, shifting about before the wind, 
a lusus naturae frequent on the great rivers of America, and not 
unknown in other parts of the world. 

" fas habeas invisere Tiburis arva, 



Albuneajque lacum, atque umbras terrasque natantes."* 

This part of the subject may be concluded with observing — 
that, from the multitude of brooks and torrents that fall into 
these lakes, and of internal springs by which they are fed, and 
which circulate through them like veins, they are truly living 
lakes, "vivilacus;" and are thus discriminated from the stag- 
nant and sullen pools frequent among mountains that have been 
formed by volcanoes, and from the shallow meres found in flat 
and fenny countries. The water is also of crystalline purity ; 
so that, if it were not for the reflections of the incumbent moun- 
tains by which it is darkened, a delusion might be felt, by a 
person resting quietly in a boat on the bosom of Winandermere 
or Derwentwater, similar to that which Carver so beautifully 
describes when he was floating alone in the middle of lake Erie 
or Ontario, and could almost have imagined that his boat was 
suspended in an element as pure as air, or, rather, that the air 
and water were one. 

Having spoken of Lakes, I must not omit to mention, as a 
kindred feature of this country, those bodies of still water called 
Tarns. In the economy of nature these are useful, as auxiliars 
to Lakes ; for if the whole quantity of water which falls upon 
the mountains in time of storm were poured down upon the 
plains without the intervention, in some quarters, of such recepta- 
cles, the habitable grounds would be much more subject than 
they are to inundation. But, as some of the collateral brooks 

* See the Catillus and Salia, of Landor. 



TARNS. 131 

spend their fury, finding a free course, toward, and also 
down the channel of the main stream of the vale, before 
those that have to pass through the higher tarns and lakes have 
filled their several basins, a gradual distribution is effected ; and 
the waters thus reserved, instead of uniting to spread ravage 
and deformity with those which meet with no such detention, 
contribute to support, for a length of time, the vigour of many 
streams without a fresh fall of rain. Tarns are found in some 
of the vales, and are numerous upon the mountains. A Tarn, 
in a Vale, implies, for the most part, that the bed of the vale is 
not happily formed ; that the water of the brooks can neither 
wholly escape, nor difluse itself over a large area. Accordingly, 
in such situations, Tarns are often surrounded by an unsightly 
tract of boggy ground; but this is not always the case, and in 
the cultivated parts of the country, when the shores of the Tarn 
are determined, it differs only from the Lake in being smaller, and 
in belonging mostly to a smaller valley, or circular recess. Of this 
class of miniature lakes, Loughrigg Tarn, near Grasmere, is the 
most beautiful example. It has a margin of green firm meadows, 
of rocks, and rocky woods, a few reeds here, a little company of 
water-lilies there, with beds of gravel or stone beyond ; a tiny 
stream issuing neither briskly nor sluggishly out of it ; but its 
feeding rills, from the shortness of their course, so small as to be 
scarcely visible. Five or six cottages are reflected in its peace- 
ful bosom; rocky and barren steeps rise up above the hanging 
enclosures; and the solemn pikes of Langdale overlook, from a 
distance, the low cultivated ridge of land that forms the northern 
boundary of this small, quiet, and fertile domain. The Moun- 
tain Tarns can only be recommended to the notice of the inqui- 
sitive traveller who has time to spare. They are difficult of 
access and naked ; yet some of them are, in their permanent 
forms, very grand ; and there are accidents of things which 
would make the meanest of them interesting. At all events, one 
of these pools is an acceptable sight to the mountain wanderer ; 
not merely as an incident that diversifies the prospect, but as 
forming in his mind a centre or conspicuous point, to which ob- 
jects, otherwise disconnected or insubordinated, may be referred. 
Some few have a varied outline, with bold heath-clad promon- 
tories ; and, as they mostly lie at the foot of a steep precipice, 
the water, where the sun is not shining upon it, appears black 
and sullen ; and, round the margin, huge stones and masses of 



132 TARNS — ^ESTUARIES. 

rock are scattered ; some defying conjecture as to the means 
by which they came thither ; and others obviously fallen 
from on high — the contribution of ages ! A not unpleasing sad- 
ness is induced by this perplexity, and these images of decay ; 
while the prospect of a body of pure water unattended with 
groves and other cheerful rural images by which fresh water is 
usually accompanied, and unable to give furtherance to the 
meagre vegetation around it — excites a sense of some repulsive 
power strongly put forth, and thus deepens the melancholy 
natural to such scenes. Nor is the feeling of solitude often 
more forcibly or more solemnly impressed than by the side of 
one of these mountain pools : though desolate and forbidding, 
it seems a distinct place to repair to ; yet where the visitants 
must be rare, and there can be no disturbance. Water-fowl 
flock hither ; and the lonely Angler may sometimes here be 
seen ; but the imagination, not content with this scanty allow- 
ence of society, is tempted to attribute a voluntary power to 
every change which takes place in such a spot, whether it be the 
breeze that wanders over the surface of the water, or the splendid 
lights of evening resting upon it in the midst of awful precipices. 

* There, sometimes does a leaping fish 
Send through the tarn a lonely cheer ; 
The crags repeat the raven's croak 
In symphony austere : 
Thither the rainbow comes, the cloud, 
And mists that spread the flying shroud, 
And sunbeams, and the sounding blast." 

It will be observed that this country is bounded on the south 
and east by the sea, w r hich combines beautifully, from many ele- 
vated points, with the inland scenery ; and, from the bay of 
Morecambe, the sloping shores and back-ground of distant moun- 
tains are seen, composing pictures equally distinguished for 
amenity and grandeur. But the eestuaries on this coast are in a 
great measure bare at low water;* and there is no instance of 

* In fact there is not an instance of a harbour on the Cumberland 
side of the Solway Frith that is not dry at low water : that of Raven- 
glass, at the mouth of the Esk, as a natural harbour, is much the best. 
The Sea appears to have been retiring slowly for ages from this coast. 
From Whitehaven to St. Bees extends a tract of level ground, about 
five miles in length, which formerly must have been under salt water. 
so as to have made an island of the high ground that stretches between 
it and the Sea. 



RIVERS — WOODS. 133 

the sea running far up among the mountains, and mingling with 
the lakes, which are such in the strict and usual sense of the 
word, being of fresh water. Nor have the streams, from the 
shortness of their course, time to acquire that body of water 
necessary to confer upon them such majesty. In fact, the most 
considerable, while they continue in the mountain and lake-coun- 
try, are rather large brooks than rivers. The water is perfectly 
pellucid, through which, in many places are seen, to a great 
depth, their beds of rock, or of blue gravel, which give to the 
water itself an exquisitely cerulean colour : this is particularly 
striking in the rivers Derwent and Duddon, which may be com- 
pared, such and so various are their beauties, to any two rivers 
of equal length of course in any country. The number of the 
torrents and smaller brooks is infinite, with their water-falls and 
water-breaks ; and they need not here be described. I will only 
observe that, as many, even of the smallest rills, have either 
found, or made for themselves, recesses in the sides of the moun- 
tains or in the vales, they have tempted the primitive inhabi- 
tants to settle near them for shelter ; and hence, cottages so 
placed, by seeming to withdraw from the eye, are the more 
endeared to the feelings. 

The Woods consist chiefly of oak, ash, and birch, and here 
and there wych-elm, with underwood of hazle, the white and 
black thorn, and hollies ; in moist places alders and willows 
abound; and yews among the rocks. Formerly the whole 
country must have been covered with wood to a great height up 
the mountains ; where native Scotch firs* must have grown in 
great profusion, as they do in the northern part of Scotland to 
this day. But not one of these old inhabitants has existed, per- 
haps, for some hundreds of years ; the beautiful traces, however, 
of the universal sylvanf appearance the country formerly had, 
yet survive in the native coppice-woods that have been protected 
by inclosures, and also in the forest-trees and hollies, which, 

* This species of fir is in character much superior to the American 
which has usurped its place. Where the fir is planted for ornament, 
let it be by all means of the aboriginal species, which can only be pro- 
cured from the Scotch nurseries. 

t A squirrel (so I have heard the old people of Wythburn say) 
might have gone from their chapel to Keswick without alighting on 
the ground. 



134 WOODS — VEGETABLE ORNAMENTS. 

though disappearing fast, are yet scattered both over the in- 
closed and uninclosed parts of the mountains. The same is ex- 
pressed by the beauty and intricacy with which the fields and 
coppice-woods are often intermingled ; the plough of the first 
settlers having followed naturally the veins of richer, dryer, or 
less stony soil ; and thus it has shaped out an intermixture of 
wood and lawn, with a grace and wildness which it would have 
been impossible for the hand of studied art to produce. Other 
trees have been introduced within these last fifty years, such as 
beeches, larches, limes, &c, and plantations of firs, seldom with 
advantage, and often with great injury to the appearance of the 
country ; but the sycamore (which I believe was brought into 
this island from Germany, not more than two hundred years 
ago) has long been the favourite of the cottagers ; and, with the 
fir, has been chosen to screen their dwellings ; and is sometimes 
found in the fields whither the winds or the waters may have 
carried its seeds. 

The want most felt, however, is that of timber trees. There 
are few magnificent ones to be found near any of the lakes ; 
and unless greater care be taken, there will, in a short time, 
scarcely be left an ancient oak that would repay the cost of 
felling. The neighbourhood of Rydal, notwithstanding the 
havock which has been made, is yet nobly distinguished. In 
the woods of Lovvther, also, is found an almost matchless store 
of ancient trees, and the majesty and wildness of the native 
forest. 

Among the smaller vegetable ornaments must be reckoned 
the bilberry, a ground plant, never so beautiful as in early 
spring, when it is seen under bare or budding trees, that im- 
perfectly intercept the sun-shine, covering the rocky knolls with 
a pure mantle of fresh verdure, more lively than the herbage of 
the open fields ; — the broom that spreads luxuriantly along 
rough pastures, and in the month of June interveins the steep 
copses with its golden blossoms; and the juniper, a rich ever- 
green, that thrives in spite of cattle, upon the uninclosed parts 
of the mountains : the Dutch myrtle diffuses fragrance in moist 
places ; and there is an endless variety of brilliant flowers in the 
fields and meadows, which, if the agriculture of the country 
were more carefully attended to, would disappear. Nor can I 
omit again to notice the lichens and mosses : their profusion, 



CLIMATE. 135 

beauty, and variety, exceed those of any other country I have 
seen. 

It may now be proper to say a few words respecting Climate, 
and " skiey influences," in which this region, as far as the cha- 
racter of its landscapes is affected by them, may, upon the whole, 
be considered fortunate. The country is, indeed, subject to 
much bad weather, and it has been ascertained that twice as 
much rain falls here as in many parts of the island ; but the num- 
ber of black drizzling days, that blot out the face of things, is 
by no means proportionally great. Nor is a continuance of thick, 
flagging, damp air, so common as in the west of England and 
Ireland. The rain here comes down heartily, and is frequently 
succeeded by clear, bright weather, when every brook is vocal, 
and every torrent sonorous ; brooks and torrents which are never 
muddy, even in the heaviest floods, except, after a drought, 
they happen to be defiled for a short time by waters that have 
swept along dusty roads, or have broken out into ploughed fields. 
Days of unsettled weather, with partial showers, are very fre- 
quent ; but the showers, darkening, or brightening, as they fly 
from hill to hill, are not less grateful to the eye than finely in- 
terwoven passages of gay and sad music are touching to the ear. 
Vapours exhaling from the lakes and meadows after sun-rise, in 
a hot season, or in moist weather, brooding upon the heights, 
or descending towards the valleys with inaudible motion, give a 
visionary character to every thing around them ; and are in 
themselves so beautiful as to dispose us to enter into the feelings 
of those simple nations (such as the Laplanders of this day) by 
whom they are taken for guardian deities of the mountains ; or 
to sympathise with others who have fancied these delicate appa- 
ritions to be the spirits of their departed ancestors. Akin to 
these are fleecy clouds resting upon the hill tops t they are not 
easily managed in picture, with their accompaniments' of blue 
sky ; but how glorious are they in nature ! how pregnant with 
imagination for the poet ! and the height of the Cumbrian moun- 
tains is sufficient to exhibit daily and hourly instances of those 
mysterious attachments. Such clouds, cleaving to their stations, 
or lifting up suddenly their glittering heads from behind rocky 
barriers, or hurrying out of sight with speed of the sharpest edge 
— will often tempt an inhabitant to congratulate himself on be- 
longing to a country of mists and clouds and storms, and make 



136 CLIMATE. 

him think of the blank sky of Egypt, and the cerulean vacancy 
of Italy, as an unanimated and even a sad spectacle. The at- 
mosphere, however, as in every country subject to much rain, is 
frequently unfavourable to landscape, especially when keen winds 
succeed the rain, which are apt to produce coldness, spottiness, 
and an unmeaning or repulsive detail in the distance, — a sunless 
frost, under a canopy of leaden and shapeless clouds, is, as far as 
it allows things to be seen, equally disagreeable. 

It has been said that in human life there are moments worth 
ages. In a more subdued tone of sympathy may we affirm, that 
in the climate of England there are, for the lover of nature, days 
which are worth whole months, — I might say — even years. One 
of these favoured days sometimes occurs in spring-time, when 
that soft air is breathing over the blossoms and new-born ver- 
dure, which inspired Buchanan with his beautiful Ode to the 
First of May ; the air, which, in the luxuriance of his fancy, he 
likens to that of the golden age, — to that which gives motion to 
the funereal cypresses on the banks of Lethe ; — to the air which 
is to salute beatified spirits when expiatory fires shall have con- 
sumed the earth with all her habitations. But it is in autumn 
that days of such affecting influence most frequently intervene ; 
— the atmosphere seems refined, and the sky rendered more 
crystalline, as the vivifying heat of the year abates ; the lights 
and shadows are more delicate ; the colouring is richer and more 
finely harmonized ; and, in this season of stillness, the ear being 
unoccupied, or only gently excited, the sense of vision becomes 
more susceptible of its appropriate enjoyments. A resident in a 
country like this which we are treating of, will agree with me, 
that the presence of a lake is indispensable to exhibit in perfec- 
tion the beauty of one of these days ; and he must have expe- 
rienced, while looking on the unruffled waters, that the imagina- 
tion, by their aid, is carried into recesses of feeling otherwise 
impenetrable. The reason of this is, that the heavens are not 
only brought down into the bosom of the earth, but that the 
earth is mainly looked at, and thought of, through the medium 
of a purer element. The happiest time is when the equinoctial 
gales are departed ; but their fury may probably be called to 
mind by the sight of a few shattered boughs, whose leaves do 
not differ in colour from the faded foliage of the stately oaks 
from which these relics of the storm depend : all else speaks of 



NIGHT. 137 

tranquillity ; — not a breath of air, no restlessness of insects, and 
not a moving object perceptible — except the clouds gliding in 
the depths of the lake, or the traveller passing along, an invert- 
ed image, whose motion seems governed by the quiet of a time, 
to which its archetype, the living person, is, perhaps, insensible : 
— or, it may happen, that the figure of one of the larger birds, 
a raven or a heron, is crossing silently among the reflected clouds, 
while the voice of the real bird, from the element aloft, gently 
awakens in the spectator the recollection of appetites and in- 
stincts, pursuits and occupations, that deform and agitate the 
world, — yet have no power to prevent nature from putting on 
an aspect capable of satisfying the most intense cravings for the 
tranquil, the lovely, and the perfect, to which man, the noblest 
of her creatures, is subject. 

Thus far of climate, as influencing the feelings through its 
effect on the object of sense. We may add, that whatever has 
been said upon the advantages derived to these scenes from a 
changeable atmosphere, would apply, perhaps still more forcibly, 
to their appearance under the varied solemnities of night. 
Milton, it will be remembered, has given a clouded moon to 
Paradise itself. In the night-season also, the narrowness of the 
vales, and comparative smallness of the lakes, are especially 
adapted to bring surrounding objects home to the eye and to the 
heart. The stars, taking their stations above the hill-tops, are 
contemplated from a spot like the Abyssinian recess of Rasselas, 
with much more touching interest than they are likely to excite 
when looked at from an open country with ordinary undulations : 
and it must be obvious, that it is the bays only of large lakes 
that can present such contrasts of light and shadow as those 
of smaller dimensions display from every quarter. A deep con- 
tracted valley, with diffused waters, such a valley and plains, 
level and wide as those of Chaldaea, are the two extremes in 
which the beauty of the heavens and their connexion with the 
earth are most sensibly felt. Nor do the advantages I have 
been speaking of imply here an exclusion of the aerial effects of 
distance. These are insured by the height of the mountains, 
and are found, even in the narrowest vales, where they lengthen 
in perspective, or act (if the expression may be used) as tele- 
scopes for the open country. 

The subject would bear to be enlarged upon ; but I will con- 



138 NIGHT. 

elude this section with a night -scene suggested by the vale of 
Keswick. The fragment is well known, but it gratifies me to 
insert it, as the Writer was one of the first who led the way to 
a worthy admiration of this country. 

" Now sunk the sun, now twilight sunk, and night 
Rode in her zenith ; not a passing breeze 
Sigh'd to the grove, which in the midnight air 
Stood motionless, and in the peaceful floods 
Inverted hung : for now the billows slept 
Along the shore, nor heav'd the deep ; but spread 
A shining mirror to the moon's pale orb, 
Which, dim and waning, o'er the shadowy cliffs, 
The solemn woods, and spiry mountain tops, 
Her glimmering faintness threw : now every eye, 
Oppress'd with toil, was drown'd in deep repose, 
Save that the unseen Shepherd in his watch, 
Propp'd on his crook, stood listening by the fold, 
And gaz'd the starry vault, and pendant moon ; 
Nor voice, nor sound, broke on the deep serene ; 
But the soft murmur of swift-gushing rills, 
Forth issuing from the mountain's distant steep, 
(Unheard till now, and now scarce heard) proclaim'd 
All things at rest, and imag'd the still voice 
Of quiet, whispering in the ear of night. "* 



* Dr. Brown, the author of this fragment, was from his infancy 
brought up in Cumberland, and should have remembered that the 
practice of folding sheep by night is unknown among these mountains, 
and that the image of the Shepherd upon the watch is out of its place, 
and belongs only to countries with a warmer climate, that are subject 
to ravages from beasts of prey. It is pleasing to notice a dawn of 
imaginative feeling in these verses. Tickel, a man of no common 
genius, chose, for the subject of a Poem, Kensington Gardens, in 
preference to Derwent, within a mile or two of which he was born. 
But this was in the reign of Queen Ann, or George the first. Progress 
must have been made in the interval , though the traces of it, except 
in the works of Thompson and Dyer, are not very obvious. 



139 



SECTION SECOND. 



ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY, AS AFFECTED BY ITS INHABITANTS. 



Hitherto I have chiefly spoken of the features by which Nature 
has discriminated this country from others. I will now describe, 
in general terms, in what manner it is indebted to the hand of 
man. What I have to notice on this subject will emanate most 
easily and perspicuously from a description of the ancient and 
present inhabitants, their occupations, their condition of life, the 
distribution of landed property among them, and the tenure b} r 
which it is holden. 

The reader will suffer me here to recall to his mind the shapes 
of the valleys, their position with respect to each other, and 
the forms and substance of the intervening mountains. He will 
people the valleys with lakes and rivers : the coves and sides of 
the mountains with pools and torrents ; and will bound half of 
the circle which we have contemplated, by the sands of the sea, 
or by the sea itself. He will conceive that, from the point upon 
which he stood, he looks down upon this scene before the coun- 
try had been penetrated by any inhabitants : — to vary his 
sensations, and to break in upon their stillness, he will form to 
himself an image of the tides visiting and re- visiting the friths, 
the main sea dashing against the bolder shore, the rivers pursu- 
ing their course to be lost in the mighty mass of waters. He 
may see or hear in fancy the winds sweeping over the lakes, or 
piping with a loud voice among the mountain peaks ; and, 
lastly, may think of the primeval woods shedding and renewing 
their leaves with no human eye to notice, or human heart to 
regret or welcome the change. '* When the first settlers 
entered this region (says an animated writer) they found it 
overspread with wood ; forest trees — the fir, the oak, the ash, 
and the birch, had skirted the fells, tufted the hills, and shaded 
the valleys, through centuries of silent solitude i the birds and 

o 2 



140 ROMAN AND BRITISH ANTIQUITIES. 

beasts of prey reigned over the meeker species ; and the bellum 
inter omnia maintained the balance of nature in the empire of 
beasts." 

Such was the state and appearance of this region when the 
aboriginal colonists of the Celtic tribes were first driven or 
drawn towards it, and became joint tenants with the wolf, the 
boar, the wild bull, the red deer, and the leigh, a gigantic 
species of deer which has been long extinct ; while the inacces- 
sible crags were occupied by the falcon, the raven, and the 
eagle. The inner parts were too secluded, and of too little 
value, to participate much in the benefit of Roman manners ; 
and though these conquerors encouraged the Britons to the im- 
provement of their lands in the plain country of Furness and 
Cumberland, they seem to have had little connexion with the 
mountains, except for military purposes, or in subservience to 
the profit they drew from the mines. 

When the Romans retired from Great Britain, it is well 
known that these mountain-fastnesses furnished a protection to 
some unsubdued Britons, long after the more accessible and 
more fertile districts had been seized by the Saxon or Danish 
invader. A few, though distinct, traces of Roman forts or 
camps, as at Ambleside, and upon Dunmallet, and a few circles of 
rude stones attributed to the Druids,* are the only vestiges that 

* It is not improbable that these circles were once numerous, and 
that many of them may yet endure in a perfect state, under no very 
deep covering of soil. A friend of the Author, while making a trench 
in a level piece of ground not far from the banks of the Eamont, but 
in no connection with that river, met with some stones which seemed 
to him formally arranged ; this excited his curiosity, and, proceeding, he 
uncovered a perfect circle of stones, from two to three or four feet high, 
with a sanctum sanctorum, — the whole a complete place of Druidical 
worship of small dimensions, having the same sort of relation to 
Stonehenge, Long Meg and her Daughters near the river Eden, and 
Karl Lofts near Shap (if this last be not Danish), that a rural chapel 
bears to a stately church, or to one of our noble cathedrals. This in- 
teresting little monument having passed, with the field in which it was 
found, into other hands, has been destroyed. It is much to be re- 
gretted, that the striking relic of antiquity at Shap has been in a great 
measure destroyed also. 

The Daughters of Long Meg are placed not in an oblong, as the 
Stones of Shap, but in a perfect circle, eighty yards in diameter, and 



Feudal tenantry. 141 

remain upon the surface of the country of these ancient occu- 
pants ; and as the Saxons and Danes, who succeeded to the 
possession of the villages and hamlets which had been established 
by the Britons, seem at first to have confined themselves to the 
open country, — we may descend at once to times long posterior 
to the conquest by the Normans, when their feudal polity was 
regularly established. We may easily conceive that these 
narrow dales and mountain sides, choked up as they must have 
been with wood, lying out of the way of communication with other 
parts of the Island, and upon the edge of a hostile kingdom, 
could have little attraction for the high-born and powerful ; 
especially as the more open parts of the country furnished posi- 
tions for castles and houses of defence, sufficient to repel any of 
those sudden attacks, which, in the then rude state of military 
knowledge, could be made upon them. Accordingly, the more 
retired regions (and to such I am now confining myself) must 
have been neglected or shunned even by the persons whose 
baronial or signioral rights extended over them, and left, doubt- 
less, partly as a place of refuge for outlaws and robbers, and 
partly granted out for the more settled habitation of a few 

seventy two in number, and from above three yards high, to less than 
so many feet : a little way out of the circle stands Long Meg herself 
—a single stone eighteen feet high. 

When the Author first saw this monument, he came upon it by sur- 
prise, therefore might over-rate its importance as an object ; but he 
must say, that though it is not to be compared with Stonehenge, he 
has not seen any other remains of those dark ages which can pretend 

to rival it in singularity and dignity of appearance, 
dp 

A weight of awe not easy to be borne 

Fell suddenly upon my spirit, cast 

From the dread bosom of the unknown past, 

When first I saw that sisterhood forlorn ;— 

And Her, whose strength and stature seem to scorn 

The power of years — pre-eminent, and placed 

Apart to overlook the circle vast. 

Speak, Giant-mother ! tell it to the Morn, 

While she dispels the cumbrous shades of night \ 

Let the Moon hear, emerging from a cloud, 

When, how, and wherefore, rose on British ground 

That wond'rous Monument, whose mystic round 

. Forth shadows, some have deemed, to mortal sight 

The inviolable God that tames the proud. 

o 3 



142 FEUDAL TENANTRY* 

vassals following the employment of shepherds or wocdlanders. 
Hence these lakes and inner valleys are unadorned by any re- 
mains of ancient grandeur, castles, or monastic edifices, which 
are only found upon the skirts of the country, as Furness Abbey, 
Calder Abbey, the Priory of Lanercost, Gleaston Castle, — long 
ago a residence of the Flemings, — and the numerous ancient 
castles of the Cliffords, the Lucys, and the Dacres. On the 
southern side of these mountains (especially in that part known 
by the name of Furness Fells, which is more remote from the 
borders), the state of society would necessarily be more settled ; 
though it also was fashioned, not a little, by its neighbourhood 
to a hostile kingdom. We will, therefore, give a sketch of 
the economy of the Abbots in the distribution of lands among 
their tenants, as similar plans were doubtless adopted by other 
Lords, and as the consequences have affected the face of the 
country materially to the present day, being, in fact, one of the 
principal causes which give it such a striking superiority, in 
beauty and interest, over all other parts of the island. 

" When the Abbots of Furness," says an author before cited, 
" enfranchised their villains, and raised them to the dignity of 
customary tenants, the lands, which they had cultivated for their 
lord, were divided into whole tenements ; each of which, besides 
the customary annual rent, was charged with the obligation of 
having in readiness a man completely armed for the king's ser- 
vice on the borders, or elsewhere ; each of these whole tene- 
ments was again sub-divided into four equal parts ; each villain 
had one > and the party-tenant contributed his share to the sup- 
port of the man of arms, and of other burdens. These divisions 
were not properly distinguished ; the land remained mixed ; 
each tenant had a share through all the arable and meadow land, 
and common of pasture over all the wastes. These sub-tene- 
ments were judged sufficient for the support of so many families : 
and no further division was permitted. These divisions and 
sub-divisions were convenient at the time for which they were 
calculated : the land so parcelled out was, of necessity, more 
attended to, and the industry greater, when more persons were 
to be supported by the produce of it. The frontier of the king- 
dom, within which Furness was considered, was in a constant 
state of attack and defence ; more hands, therefore, were 
necessary to guard the coast, to repel an invasion from Scotland, 



HABITATIONS. — INCLOSURES. 143 

or make reprisals on the hostile neighbour. The dividing the 
lands in such manner as has been shown, increased the number 
of inhabitants, and kept them at home till called for : and, the 
land being mixed, and the several tenants uniting in equipping 
the plough, the absence of the fourth man was no prejudice to 
the cultivation of his land, which was committed to the care of 
three. 

" While the villains of Low Furness were thus distributed 
over the land, and employed in agriculture ; those of High Fur- 
ness were charged with the care of flocks and herds, to protect 
them from the wolves which lurked in the thickets, and in winter 
to browze them with the tender sprouts of hollies and ash. This 
custom was not till lately discontinued in High Furness ; and 
holly- trees were carefully preserved for that purpose when all 
other wood was cleared off; large tracts of common being so 
covered with these trees, as to have the appearance of a forest 
of hollies. At the shepherd's call, the flocks surrounded the 
holly-bush, and received the croppings at his hand, which they 
greedily nibbled up, bleating for more. The Abbots of Furness 
enfranchised these pastoral vassals, and permitted them to 
enclose quillets to their houses, for which they paid encroachment 
rent." — West's Antiquities of Furness. 

However desirable, for the purposes of defence, a numerous 
population might be, it was not possible to make at once the 
same numerous allotments among the untilled valleys, and upon 
the sides of the mountains, as had been made in the cultivated 
plains. The enfranchised shepherd, or woodlander, having 
chosen there his place of residence, builds it of sods, or of the 
mountain-stone, and, with the permission of his lord, encloses, 
like Robinson Crusoe, a small croft or two immediately at his 
door, for such animals as he wishes to protect. Others are 
happy to imitate his example, and avail themselves of the same 
privileges ; and thus a population, mainly of Danish or Norse 
origin, as the dialect indicates, crept on towards the more 
secluded parts of the valleys. Chapels, daughters of some dis- 
tant mother church, are first erected in the more open and fer- 
tile vales, as those of Bowness and Grasmere, offsets from Kendal: 
which again, after a period, as the settled population increases^ 
become mother churches to smaller edifices, planted, at length, 
in almost every dale throughout the country. The inclosures, 



144 TENANTRY REDUCED. 

formed by the tenantry, are for a long time confined to the 
home-steads ; and the arable and meadow land of the vales is 
possessed in common field : the several portions being marked 
out by stones, bushes, or trees ; which portions, where the 
custom has survived, to this day are called dales , from the word 
deylen, to distribute ; but, while the valley was thus lying open, 
inclosures seem to have taken place upon the sides of the 
mountains ; because the land there was not intermixed, 
and was of little comparative value ; and, therefore, small 
opposition would be made to its being appropriated by those 
to whose habitations it was contiguous. Hence the singular 
appearance which the sides of many of these mountains exhibit, 
intersected, as they are, almost to the summit, with stone walls. 
When first erected, these stone fences must have little disfigured 
the face of the country ; as part of the lines would every where 
be hidden by the quantity of native wood then remaining ; and 
the lines would also be broken (as they still are) by the rocks 
which interrupt and vary their course. In the meadows, and in 
those parts of the lower grounds where the soil had not been 
sufficiently drained, and could not afford a stable foundation, 
there, when the increasing value of land, and the inconvenience 
suffered from intermixed plots of ground in common field, had 
induced each inhabitant to inclose his own, they were compelled 
to make the fences of alders, willows, and other trees. These, 
where the native wood has disappeared, have frequently enriched 
the valleys with a sylvan appearance ; while the intricate inter- 
mixture of property has given to the fences a graceful irregu- 
larity, which, where large properties are prevalent, and large 
capitals employed in agriculture, is unknown. This sylvan ap- 
pearance is heightened by the number of ash trees planted in 
rows along the quick-fences, and along the walls, for the purpose 
ofbrowzing the cattle at the approach of winter. The branches 
are lopped off and strewn upon the pastures ; and when the cattle 
have stripped them of their leaves, they are used for repairing 
the hedges, or for fuel. 

We have thus seen a numerous body of Dalesmen creeping 
into possession of their homesteads, their little crofts, their 
mountain enclosures ; and, finally, the whole vale is visibly di- 
vided ; except, perhaps, here and there some marshy ground, 
which, till fully drained, would not repay the trouble of inclos- 



STATE OF SOCIETY. 145 

ing. But these last partitions do not seem to have been general 
till long after the pacification of the Borders, by the union of the 
two crowns ; when the cause, which had first determined the 
distribution of land into such small parcels, had not only ceased, 
but likewise a general improvement had taken place in the coun- 
try, with a correspondent rise in the value of its produce. From 
the time of the union, it is certain that this species of feudal 
population must rapidly have diminished. That it was formerly 
much more numerous than it is at present, is evident from the 
multitude of tenements (I do not mean houses, but small divisions 
of land) which belonged formerly each to a several proprietor, 
and for which separate fines are paid to the manorial lords at this 
day. These are often in the proportion of four to one of the 
present occupants. " Sir Launcelot Threlkeld, who lived in the 
reign of Henry VII., was wont to say, he had three noble houses, 
one for pleasure, Crosby, in Westmorland, where he had a park 
full of deer ; one for profit and warmth, wherein to reside in 
winter, namely, Yanwath, nigh Penrith ; and the third, Threl- 
keld fon the edge of the vale of Keswick), well stocked with 
tenants to go with him to the wars." But, as I have said, from 
the union of the two crowns, this numerous vassalage (their ser- 
vices not being wanted) would rapidly diminish ; various tene- 
ments would be united in one possessor ; and the aboriginal 
houses, probably little better than hovels, like the kraals of 
savages, or the huts of the Highlanders of Scotland, would fall 
into decay, and the places of many be supplied by substantial and 
comfortable buildings, a majority of which remain to this day 
scattered over the valleys, and are often the only dwellings found 
in them. 

From the time of the erection of these houses, till within the 
last sixty years, the state of society, though no doubt slowly and 
gradually improving, underwent no material change. Corn was 
grown in these vales (through which no carriage-road had yet 
been made) sufficient upon each estate to furnish bread for each 
family, and no more : notwithstanding the union of several tene- 
ments, the possessions of each inhabitant still being small, in the 
same field was seen an intermixture of different crops ; and the 
plough was interrupted by little rocks, mostly overgrown with 
wood, or by spongy places, which the tillers of the soil had neither 
leisure nor capital to convert into firm land. The storms and mois- 



146 NATIVE FORESTS. 

ture of the climate induced them to sprinkle their upland property 
with outhouses of native stone, as places of shelter for their 
sheep, where, in tempestuous weather, food was distributed to 
them. Every family spun from its own flock the wool with 
which it was clothed ; a weaver was here and there found among 
them ; and the rest of their wants were supplied by the produce 
of the yarn, which they carded and spun in their own houses, 
and carried to market, either under their arms, or more frequently 
on pack-horses, a small train taking their way weekly down the 
valley, or over the mountains to the most commodious town. 
They had, as I have said, their rural chapel, and of course their 
minister, in clothing or in manner of life in no respect differing 
from themselves, except on the Sabbath-day ; this was the sole 
distinguished individual among them ; every thing else, person 
and possession, exhibited a perfect equality, a community of 
shepherds and agriculturists, proprietors, for the most part, of 
the lands which they occupied and cultivated. 

While the process above detailed was going on, the native 
forest must have been every where receding ; but trees were 
planted for the sustenance of the flocks in winter, — such was 
then the rude state of agriculture ; and, for the same cause, it 
was necessary that care should be taken of some part of the 
growth of the native woods. Accordingly, in Queen Elizabeth's 
time, this was so strongly felt, that a petition was made to the 
Crown, praying, " that the Blomaries in High Furness might be 
abolished, on account of the quantity of wood which was con- 
sumed in them for the use of the mines, to the great detriment of 
the cattle." But this same cause, about a hundred years after, 
produced effects directly contrary to those which had been de- 
precated. The re-establishment, at that period, of furnaces 
upon a large scale, made it the interest of the people to convert 
the steeper and more stony of the inclosures, sprinkled over with 
remains of the native forest, into close woods, which, when cat- 
tle and sheep were excluded, rapidly sowed and thickened them- 
selves. The reader's attention has been directed to the cause 
by which tufts of wood, pasturage, meadow, and arable land, 
with its various produce, are intricately intermingled in the same 
field ; and he will now see, in like manner, how inclosures en- 
tirely of wood, and those of cultivated ground, are blended all 
over the country under a law of similar wildness. 



COTTAGES. 147 

A historic detail has thus been given of the manner in which 
the hand of man has acted upon the surface of the inner regions 
of this mountainous country, as incorporated with, and subservient 
to, the powers and processes of nature. We will now take a view 
of the same agency — acting, within narrower bounds, for the 
production of the few works of art and accommodations of life 
which, in so simple a state of society, could be necessary. These 
are merely habitations of man and coverts for beasts, roads and 
bridges, and places of worship. 

And to begin with the Cottages. They are scattered over 
the valleys, and under the hills, and on the rocks ; and, even to 
this day, in the more retired dales, without any intrusion of 
more assuming buildings : 

Cluster'd like stars some few, but single most, 

And lurking dimly in their shy retreats, 

Or glancing on each other cheerful looks, 

Like separated stars with clouds between. MS. 

The dwelling-houses, and contiguous outhouses, are, in many 
instances, of the colour of the native rock, out of which they 
have been built ; but, frequently the dwelling or fire-house, as 
it is ordinarily called, has been distinguished from the barn or 
byer by rough-cast and whitewash, which, as the inhabitants are 
not hasty in renewing it, in a few years acquires, by the influence 
of weather, a tint at once sober and variegated. As these houses 
have been, from father to son, inhabited by persons engaged in 
the same occupations, yet necessarily with changes in their cir- 
cumstances, they have received without incongruity additions 
and accommodations adapted to the need of each successive oc- 
cupant, who, being for the most part proprietor, was at liberty 
to follow his own fancy : so that these humble dwellings remind 
the contemplative spectator of a production of nature, and may 
(using a strong expression) rather be said to have grown than to 
have been erected ; — to have risen, by an instinct of their own, 
out of the native rock — so little is there in them of formality, 
such is their wildness and beauty. Among the numerous recesses 
and projections in the walls and in the different stages of their 
roofs, are seen bold and harmonious effects of contrasted sunshine 
and shadow. It is a favourable circumstance, that the strong 
winds, which sweep down the valleys, induced the inhabitants, 



148 COTTAGES. 

at a time when the materials for building were easily procured, 
to furnish many of these dwellings with substantial porches ; and 
such as have not this defence, are seldom unprovided with a 
projection of two large slates over their thresholds. Nor will 
the singular beauty of the chimneys escape the eye of the at- 
tentive traveller. Sometimes a low chimney, almost upon a level 
with the roof, is overlaid with a slate, supported on four slender 
pillars, to prevent the wind from driving the smoke down the 
chimney. Others are of a quadrangular shape, rising one or 
two feet above the roof ; which low square is often surmounted 
by a tall cylinder, giving to the cottage chimney the most beau- 
tiful shape in which it is ever seen. Nor will it be too fanciful 
or refined to remark, that there is a pleasing harmony between 
a tall chimney of this circular form, and the living column of 
smoke ascending from it through the still air. These dwellings, 
mostly built, as has been said, of rough unhewn stone, are roofed 
with slates, which were rudely taken from the quarry before the 
present art of splitting them was understood, and are, therefore, 
rough and uneven in their surface, so that both the coverings 
and sides of the houses have furnished places of rest for the seeds 
of lichens, mosses, ferns, and flowers. Hence buildings, which 
in their very form call to mind the processes of nature, do thus, 
clothed in part with a vegetable garb, appear to be received into 
the bosom of the living principle of things, as it acts and exists 
among the woods and fields ; and, by their colour and their 
shape, affectingly direct the thoughts to that tranquil course of 
nature and simplicity, along which the humble -minded inhabi- 
tants have, through so many generations, been led. Add the 
little garden with its shed for bee-hives, its small bed of pot- 
herbs, and its borders and patches of flowers for Sunday posies, 
with sometimes a choice few, too much prized to be plucked ; an 
orchard of proportioned size ; a cheese-press, often supported by 
some tree near the door ; a cluster of embowering sycamores for 
summer shade ; with a tall fir, through which the winds sing 
when other trees are leafless^ the little rill or household spout 
murmuring in all seasons ; — combine these incidents and images 
together, and you have the representative idea of a mountain- 
cottage in this country, so beautifully formed in itself and so 
richly adorned by the hand of nature. 

Till within the last sixty years there was no communication 



LANES AND PATHWAYS — BRIDGES. 149 

between any of these vales by carriage-roads ; all bulky articles 
were transported on pack-horses. Owing, however, to the 
population not being concentrated in villages, but scattered, the 
valleys themselves were intersected as now by innumerable lanes 
and pathways leading from house to house and from field to field. 
These lanes, where they are fenced by stone walls,, are mostly 
bordered with ashes, hazels, wild roses, and beds of tall fern, at 
their base ; while the walls themselves, if old, are overspread 
with mosses, small ferns, wild strawberries, the geranium, and 
lichens : and, if the wall happen to rest against a bank of earth, 
it is sometimes almost wholly concealed by a rich facing of stone- 
fern. It is a great advantage to a traveller or resident, that 
these numerous lanes and paths, if he be a zealous admirer of 
nature, will lead him into all the recesses of the country, so that 
the hidden treasures of its landscapes may, by an ever-ready 
guide, be laid open to his eyes. 

Likewise to the smallness of the several properties is owing 
the great number of bridges over the brooks and torrents, and 
the daring and graceful neglect of danger or accommodation with 
which so many of them are constructed, the rudeness of the forms 
of some, and their endless variety. But when I speak of this 
rudeness, I must at the same time add, that many of these struc- 
tures are in themselves models of elegance, as if they had been 
formed upon principles of the most thoughtful architecture. It 
is to be regretted that these monuments of the skill of our an- 
cestors, and of that happy instinct by which consummate beauty 
was produced, are disappearing fast ; but sufficient specimens 
remain* to give a high gratification to the man of genuine taste. 
Travellers who may not have been accustomed to pay attention 

* Written some time ago. The injury done since, is more than could 
have been calculated upon. Singula de nobis anni prcedantur euntes. 
This is in the course of things, but why should the genius that di- 
rected the ancient architecture of these vales have deserted them ? 
For the bridges, churches, mansions, cottages, and their richly-fringed 
and flat-roofed outhouses, venerable as the grange of some old abbey," 
have been substituted structures, in which baldness only seems to have 
been studied, or plans of the most vulgar utility. But some improve- 
ment may be looked for in future ; the gentry recently have copied the 
old models, and successful instances might be pointed out, if I could 
take the liberty. 



150 PLACES OF WORSHIP. 

to things so inobtrusive, will excuse me if I point out the pro- 
portion between the span and elevation of the arch, the lightness 
of the parapet, and the graceful manner in which its curve fol- 
lows faithfully that of the arch. 

Upon this subject I have nothing further to notice, except the 
places of worship, which have mostly a little school- house ad- 
joining.* The architecture of these churches and chapels, where 
they have not been recently rebuilt or modernised, is of a style 
not less appropriate and admirable than that of the dwelling- 
houses and other structures. How sacred the spirit by which 
our forefathers were directed ! The religio loci is no where 
violated by these unstinted, yet unpretending, works of human 
hands. They exhibit generally a well-proportioned oblong, 
with a suitable porch, in some instances a steeple tower, and in 
others nothing more than a small belfry, in which one or two 
bells hang visibly. But these objects, though pleasing in their 
forms, must necessarily, more than others in rural scenery, de- 
rive their interest from the sentiments of piety and reverence 
for the modest virtues and simple manners of humble life with 
which they may be contemplated. A man must be very insen- 
sible who would not be touched with pleasure at the sight of the 
chapel of Buttermere, so strikingly expressing, by its diminutive 
size, how small must be the congregation there assembled, as it 
w r ere like one family ; and proclaiming at the same time to the 
passenger, in connection with the surrounding mountains, the 
depth of that seclusion in which the people live, that has render- 
ed necessary the building of a separate place of worship for so 

* In some places scholars were formerly taught in the church, and at 
others the school-house was a sort of ante-chapel to the place of wor- 
ship, being under the same roof : an arrangement which was abandoned 
as irreverent. It continues, however, to this day in Borrowdale. In 
the parish register of that chapelry is a notice, that a youth who had 
quitted the valley, and died in one of the towns on the coast of Cum- 
berland, had requested that his body should be brought and interred 
at the foot of the pillar by which he had been accustomed to sit while 
a school-boy. One cannot but regret that parish registers so seldom 
contain any thing but bare names ; in a few of this country, especially 
in that of Loweswater, I have found interesting notices of unusual 
occurrences — characters of the deceased, and particulars of their lives. 
There is no good reason why such memorials should not be frequent : 
these short and simple annals would in future ages become precious. 



GENERAL PICTURE OF SOCIETY. 151 

few. A patriot, calling to mind the images of the stately fabrics 
of Canterbury, York, or Westminster, will find a heart-felt 
satisfaction in presence of this lowly pile, as a monument of the 
wise institutions of our country, and as evidence of the all- 
pervading and maternal care of that venerable Establishment, of 
which it is, perhaps, the humblest daughter. The edifice is 
scarcely larger than many of the single stones or fragments of 
rock which are scattered near it. 

We have thus far confined our observations on this division of 
the subject, to that part of these Dales which runs up far into the 
mountains. 

As we descend towards the open country, we meet with halls 
and mansions, many of which have been places of defence against 
the incursions of the Scottish borderers : and they not unfre- 
quently retain their towers and battlements. To these houses, 
parks are sometimes attached, and to their successive proprietors 
we chiefly owe whatever ornament is still left to the country of 
majestic timber. Through the open parts of the vales are scat- 
tered, also, houses of a middle rank between the pastoral cottage 
and the old hall residence of the knight or esquire. Such houses 
differ much from the rugged cottages before described, and are 
generally graced with a little court or garden in front, where may 
yet be seen specimens of those fantastic and quaint figures which 
our ancestors were fond of shaping out in yew-tree, holly, or 
box-wood. The passenger will sometimes smile at such elaborate 
display of petty art, while the house does not deign to look upon 
the natural beauty or the sublimity which its situation almost 
unavoidably .commands. 

Thus has been given a faithful description, the minuteness of 
which the reader will pardon, of the face of this country as it 
was, and has been through centuries, till within the last sixty 
years. Towards the head of these Dales was found a perfect 
Republic of Shepherds and Agriculturists, amongst whom the 
plough of each man was confined to the maintenance of his own 
family, or for the occasional accommodation of his neighbour.* 

* One of the most pleasing characteristics of manners, in secluded 
and thinly-peopled districts, is a sense of the degree in which human 
happiness and comfort are dependent on the contingency of neighbour- 
hood. This is implied by a rhyming adage common here, " Friends are 

p 2 



152 GENERAL PICTURE OF SOCIETY. 

Two or three cows furnished each family with milk and cheese. 
The chapel, was the only edifice that presided over these dwell- 
ings, the supreme head of this pure commonwealth ; the mem- 
bers of which existed in the midst of a powerful empire, like an 
ideal society, or an organized community whose constitution had 
been imposed and regulated by the mountains which had pro- 
tected it. Neither high-born nobleman, knight, nor esquire, 
was here ; but many of these humble sons of the hills had a con- 
sciousness that the land, which they walked over and tilled, had 
for more than five hundred years been possessed by men of their 
name and blood ; and venerable was the transition, when a curi- 
ous traveller, descending from the heart of the mountains, had 
come to some ancient manorial residence in the more open parts 
of the vales, which, through rights attached to its proprietor, 
connected the almost visionary mountain republic he had been 
contemplating, with the substantial frame of society as existing 
in the laws and constitution of a mighty empire* 



far, when neighbours are nar" (near). This mutual helpfulness is not 
confined to out-of-door work; bnt is ready upon all occasions. For- 
merly, if a person became sick, especially the mistress of a family, it 
was usual for those of the neighbours who were more particularly con- 
nected with the party by amicable offices, to visit the honse, carrying 
a present ! This practice, which is by no means obsolete, is called owning 
the family, and is regarded as a pledge of a disposition to be otherwise 
serviceable in a time of disability and distress> 



153 



SECTION THIRD. 



CHANGES, AND RULES OF TASTE FOR PREVENTING THEIR 
BAD EFFECTS. 



Such, as hath been said, was the appearance of things till 
within the last sixty years. A practice, denominated Ornamen- 
tal Gardening, was at that time becoming prevalent over 
England. In union with an admiration of this art, and in some 
instances in opposition to it, had been generated a relish for 
select parts of natural scenery: and Travellers, instead of con- 
fining their observations to Towns, Manufactories, or Mines, 
began (a thing till then unheard of) to 'wander over the island 
in search of sequestered spots, distinguished, as they might 
accidentally have learned, for the sublimity or beauty of the 
forms of Nature there to be seen. Dr. Brown, the celebrated 
Author of the " Estimate of the Manners and Principles of the 
Times," published a letter to a friend, in which the attractions of 
the Vale of Keswick were delineated with a powerful pencil, and 
the feeling of a genuine Enthusiast. Gray, the Poet, followed: 
he died soon after his forlorn and melancholy pilgrimage to the 
Vale of Keswick, and the record left behind him of what he 
had seen and felt in this journey, excited that pensive interest 
w r ith which the human mind is ever disposed to listen to the 
farewell words of a man of genius. The journal of Gray 
feelingly showed how the gloom of ill health and low spirits had 
been irradiated by objects, which the Author's powers of mind 
enabled him to describe with distinctness and unaffected simpli- 
city. Every reader of this journal must have been impressed 
with the words which conclude his notice of the Vale of Gras- 
mere: — " Not a single red tile, no flaring gentleman's house or 
garden-wall, breaks in upon the repose of this little unsuspected 
paradise ; but all is peace, rusticity, and happy poverty, in its 
neatest and most becoming attire." 

p 3 



154 NEW SETTLERS — THE COUNTRY DISFIGURED. 

What is here so justly said of Grasmere applied almost equally 
to all its sister Vales. It was well for the undisturbed pleasure 
of the Poet that he had no forebodings of the change w T hich 
was soon to take place ; and it might have been hoped that 
these words, indicating how much the charm of w T hat was de- 
pended upon what was not, would of themselves have preserved 
the ancient franchises of this and other kindred mountain retire- 
ments from trespass ; or (shall I dare to say ?) would have 
secured scenes so consecrated from profanation. The lakes had 
now become celebrated ; visitors flocked here from all parts of 
England ; the fancies of some were smitten so deeply, that they 
became settlers ; and the Islands of Derwent-water and Win- 
andermere, as they offered the strongest temptation, were the 
first places seized upon, and were instantly defaced by the intru- 
sion. 

The venerable w T ood that had grown for centuries round the 
small house called St. Herbert's Hermitage, had indeed some 
years before been felled by its native proprietor, and the whole 
island planted anew with Scotch firs, left to spindle up by each 
other's side — a melancholy phalanx, defying the power of the 
winds, and disregarding the regret of the spectator, who might 
otherwise have cheated himself into a belief, that some of the 
decayed remains of those oaks, the place of which was in this 
manner usurped, had been planted by the Hermit's own hand. 
This sainted spot, however, suffered comparatively little injury. 
At the bidding of an alien improver, the Hind's Cottage, upon 
Vicar's Island, in the same lake, with its embowering sycamores 
and cattle-shed, disappeared from the corner where they stood ; 
and right in the middle, and upon the precise point of the 
island's highest elevation, rose a tall square habitation, with four 
sides exposed, like an astronomer's observatory, or a warren- 
house reared upon an eminence for the detection of depredators, 
or, like the temple of iEolus, where all the winds pay him 
obeisance. Round this novel structure, but at a respectful dis- 
tance, platoons of fir were stationed, as if to protect their com- 
mander w T hen weather and time should somewhat have shattered 
his strength. Within the narrow r limits of this island were 
typified also the state and strength of a kingdom, and its religion 
as it had been, and was, — for neither was the Druidical circle 
uncreated, nor the church of the present establishment ; nor the 



THE COUNTRY DISFIGURED. 155 

stately pier, emblem of commerce and navigation ; nor the fort 
to deal out thunder upon the approaching invader. The taste of 
a succeeding proprietor rectified the mistakes as far as was 
practicable, and has rid the spot of its puerilities. The 
church, after having been docked of its steeple, is applied, both 
ostensibly and really, to the purpose for which the body of the 
pile was actually erected, namely, a boat-house ; the fort is 
demolished ; and, without indignation on the part of the spirits 
of the ancient Druids who officiated at the circle upon the oppo- 
site hill, the mimic arrangement of stones, with its sanctum 
sanctorum, has been swept away. 

The present instance has been singled out, extravagant as it is, 
because, unquestionably, this beautiful country has, in numerous 
other places, suffered from the same spirit, though not clothed 
exactly in the same form, nor active in an equal degree. It will 
be sufficient here to utter a regret for the changes that have 
been made upon the principal Island at Winandermere, and in 
its neighbourhood. What could be more unfortunate than the 
taste that suggested the paring of the shores, and surrounding 
with an embankment this spot of ground, the natural shape of 
which was so beautiful! An artificial appearance has thus been 
given to the whole, while infinite varieties of minute beauty 
have been destroyed. Could not the margin of this noble island 
be given back to nature ? Winds and waves work with a care- 
less and graceful hand : and, should they in some places carry 
aw T ay a portion of the soil, the trifling loss would be amply com- 
pensated by the additional spirit, dignity, and loveliness, which 
these agentsand the other powers of nature would soon commu- 
nicate to what was left behind. As to the larch-plantations 
upon the main shore, — they who remember the original appear- 
ance of the rocky steeps, scattered over with native hollies and 
ash trees, will be prepared to agree with what I shall have to 
say hereafter upon plantations* in general. 

But, in truth, no one can now 7 travel through the more frequent- 
ed tracts, without being offended, at almost every turn, by an 
introduction of discordant objects, disturbing that peaceful 
harmony of form and colour w r hich had been through a long 
lapse of ages most happily preserved. 

* These are disappearing fast, under the management of the present 
Proprietor, and native woojd is resuming its place. 



156 CAUSES OF BAD TASTE. 

All gross transgressions of this kind originate, doubtless, in a 
feeling natural and honourable to the human mind, viz., the 
pleasure which it receives from distinct ideas, and from the 
perception of order, regularity, and contrivance. Now, un- 
practised minds receive these impressions only from objects that 
are divided from each other by strong lines of demarcation; 
hence the delight with which such minds are smitten by formality 
and harsh contrast. But I would beg of those who are eager 
to create the means of such gratification, first carefully to study 
what already exists ; and they will find, in a country so lavishly 
gifted by nature, an abundant variety of forms marked out with 
a precision that will satisfy their desires. Moreover, a new 
habit of pleasure will be formed opposite to this, arising out of 
the perception of the fine gradations by which in nature one 
thing passes away into another, and the boundaries that consti- 
tute individuality disappear in one instance only to be revived 
elsewhere under a more alluring form. The hill of Dunmallet, 
at the foot of Ullswater, was once divided into different portions, 
by avenues of fir-trees, with a green and almost perpendicular 
lane descending down the steep hill through each avenue : con- 
trast this quaint appearance with the image of the same hill over- 
grown with self-planted wood, — each tree springing up in the 
situation best suited to its kind, and with that shape which the 
situation constrained or suffered it to take. What endless melt- 
ing and playing into each other of forms and colours does the 
one offer to a mind at once attentive and active ; and how in- 
sipid and lifeless, compared w r ith it, appear those parts of the 
former exhibition with which a child, a peasant perhaps, or a 
citizen unfamiliar with natural imagery, w r ould have been most 
delighted ! 

The disfigurement which this country has undergone, has not, 
however, proceeded wholly from the common feelings of human 
nature which have been referred to as the primary sources of 
bad taste in rural imagery ; another cause must be added, that 
has chiefly shown itself in its effect upon buildings. I mean a 
warping of the natural mind occasioned by a consciousness that, 
this country being an object of general admiration, every new 
house would be looked at and commented upon either for appro- 
bation or censure. Hence all the deformity and ungracefulness 
that ever pursue the steps of constraint or affectation. Persons, 



ANCIENT MODELS RECOMMENDED. 157 

who in Leicestershire or Northamptonshire would probably have 
built a modest dwelling like those of their sensible neighbours, 
have been turned out of their course ; and, acting a part, no 
wonder if, having had little experience, they act it ill. The 
craving for prospect, also, which is immoderate, particularly in 
new settlers, has rendered it impossible that buildings, whatever 
might have been their architecture, should in most instances be 
ornamental to the landscape, rising as they do from the summits 
of naked hills in staring contrast to the snugness and privacy of 
the ancient houses. 

No man is to be condemned for a desire to decorate his resi- 
dence and possessions ; feeling a disposition to applaud such an 
endeavour, I would show how the end may be best attained. 
The rule is simple : with respect to grounds — work, where you 
can, in the spirit of nature, with an invisible hand of art. 
Planting, and a removal of wood, may thus, and thus only, be 
carried on with good effect ; and the like may be said of building, 
if Antiquity, who may be styled the co-partner and sister of 
Nature, be not denied the respect to which she is entitled. I 
have already spoken of the beautiful forms of the ancient man- 
sions of this country, and of the happy manner in which they 
harmonize with the forms of nature. Why cannot such be 
taken as a model, and modern internal convenience be confined 
within their external grace and dignity. Expense to be avoided, 
or difficulties to be overcome, may prevent a close adherence to 
this model ; still, however, it might be followed to a certain 
degree, in the style of architecture and in the choice of situation, 
if the thirst for prospect were mitigated by those considerations 
of comfort, shelter, and convenience, which used to be chiefly 
sought after. But should an aversion to old fashions unfortu- 
nately exist, accompanied with a desire to transplant into the 
cold and stormy North, the elegancies of a villa formed upon a 
model taken from countries with milder climate, I will adduce a 
passage from an English poet, the divine Spenser, which will 
show in what manner such a plan may be realised without injury 
to the native beauty of these scenes. 

"Into that forrest farre they thence him led, 
Where was their dwelling in a pleasant glade 
With mountains round about environed, 
And mighty woods which did the valley shade^ 



158 ANCIENT MODELS RECOMMENDED. 

And like a stately theatre it made, 

Spreading itself into a spacious plaine ; 

And in the midst a little river plaide 

Emongst the puny stones which seem'd to 'plaine 

With gentle murmure that his course they did restraine. 

Beside the same a dainty place there lay, 

Planted with mirtle trees and laurels green, 

In which the birds sang many a lovely lay 

Of God's high praise, and of their sweet loves teene, 

As it an earthly paradise had beene; 

In whose enclosed shadow there was pight 

A fair pavillion, scarcely to be seen, 

The which was all within most richly dight, 

That greatest princess living it mote well delight." 

Houses or mansions suited to a mountainous region, should be 
"not obvious, not obtrusive, but retired;'' and the reasons for 
this rule, though they have been little adverted to, are evident. 
Mountainous countries, more frequently and forcibly than others, 
remind us of the power of the elements, as manifested in winds, 
snows, and torrents, and accordingly make the notion of ex- 
posure very unpleasing ; while shelter and comfort are in propor- 
tion necessary and acceptable. Far-winding valleys difficult of 
access, and the feelings of simplicity habitually connected with 
mountain retirements, prompt us to turn from ostentation, as a 
thing there eminently unnatural and out of place. A mansion, 
amidst such scenes, can never have sufficient dignity or interest 
to become principal in the landscape, and to render the. moun- 
tains, lakes, or torrents, by which it may be surrounded, a 
subordinate part of the view. It is, I grant, easy to conceive 
that an ancient castellated building, hanging over a precipice or 
raised upon an island or the peninsula of a lake, like that of 
Kilchurn Castle, upon Loch Awe, may not want, whether 
deserted or inhabited, sufficient majesty to preside for a moment 
in the spectator's thoughts over the high mountains among which 
it is embosomed ; but its titles are from antiquity — a power 
readily submitted to upon occasion as the vicegerent of Nature : 
it is respected, as having owed its existence to the necessities of 
things, as a monument of security in times of disturbance and 
danger long passed away, — as a record of the pomp and violence 
of passion, and a symbol of the wisdom of law; — it bears a 
countenance of authority, which is not impaired by decay. 



COLOURING OF BUILDINGS. 159 

" Child of loud-throated war, the mountain -stream 
Roars in thy hearing ; but thy hour of rest 
Is come, and thou art silent in thy age!" 

To such honours a modern edifice can lay no claim ; and the 
puny efforts of elegance appear contemptible, when, in such 
situations, they are obtruded in rivalship with the sublimi- 
ties of Nature. But, towards the verge of a district like this of 
which we are treating, when the mountains subside into hills of 
moderate elevation, or in an undulating or flat country, a 
gentleman's mansion may, with propriety, become a principal 
feature in the landscape ; and, being itself a work of art, works 
and traces of artificial ornament may, without censure, be 
extended around it, as they will be referred to the common 
centre, the house; the right of which, to impress within certain 
limits a character of obvious ornament, will not be denied, where 
no commanding forms of nature dispute it, or set it aside. Now T , 
to a want of the perception of this difference, and to the causes 
before assigned, may chiefly be attributed the disfigurement 
which the Country of the Lakes has undergone, from persons 
who may have built, demolished, and planted, with full confi- 
dence that every change and addition was, or would become, an 
improvement. 

The principle that ought to determine the position, apparent 
size, and architecture of a house, viz. that it should be v so con- 
structed, and (if large) so much of it hidden, as to admit of its 
being, gently incorporated into the scenery of nature — should 
also determine its colour. Sir Joshua Reynolds used to say, "If 
you would fix upon the best colour for your house, turn up a 
stone, or pluck up a handful of grass by the roots, and see what 
is the colour of the soil where the house is to stand, and let that 
be your choice." Of course, this precept, given in conversation, 
could not have been meant to be taken literally. For example, 
in Low Furness, where the soil, from its strong impregnation 
with iron, is universally of a deep red, if this rule were strictly 
followed, the house also must be of a glaring red; in other ■ 
places it must be of a sullen black ; which would only be adding 
annoyance to annoyance. The rule, however, as a general 
guide, is good ; and, in agricultural districts, where large tracts 
of soil are laid bare by the plough, particularly if (the face of 
the country being undulating) they are held up to view, this 



160 COLOURING OF BUILDINGS, 

rule, though not to be implicitly adhered to, should never be lost 
sight of ; — the colour of the house ought, if possible, to have a 
cast or shade of the colour of the soil. The principle is, that 
the house must harmonise with the surrounding landscape: 
accordingly, in mountainous countries, with still more confidence 
may it be said, '* look at the rocks and those parts of the moun- 
tains where the soil is visible, and they will furnish a safe direc- 
tion." Nevertheless, it will often happen that the rocks may 
bear so large a proportion to the rest of the landscape, and may 
be of such a tone of colour, that the rule may not admit, even 
here, of being implicitly followed. For instance, the chief 
defect in the colouring of the Country of the Lakes (which is 
most strongly felt in the summer season), is an over-prevalence 
of a bluish tint, which the green of the herbage, the fern, and 
the woods, does not sufficiently counteract. If a house, there- 
fore, should stand where this defect prevails, I have no hesitation 
in saying, that the colour of the neighbouring rocks would not be 
the best that could be chosen. A tint ought to be introduced 
approaching nearer to those which, in the technical language of 
painters, are called warm : this, if happily selected, would not 
disturb, but would animate, the landscape. How often do we 
see this exemplified upon a small scale by the native cottages, in 
cases where the glare of white- wash has been subdued by time 
and enriched by weather-stains! No harshness is then seen; 
but one of these cottages, thus coloured, will often form a central 
point to a landscape by which the whole shall be connected, and 
an influence of pleasure diffused over all the objects that com- 
pose the picture. But where the cold blue tint of the rocks is 
enriched by the iron tinge, the colour cannot be too closely imi- 
tated ; and it will be produced of itself by the stones hewn from 
the adjoining quarry, and by the mortar, which may be tempered 
with the most gravelly part of the soil. The pure blue gravel, 
from the bed of the river, is, however, more suitable to the 
mason's purpose, who will probably insist also that the house 
must be covered with rough-cast, otherwise it cannot be kept 
dry ; if this advice be taken, the builder of taste will set about 
contriving such means as may enable him to come the nearest 
to the effect aimed at. 

The supposed necessity of rough-cast to keep out rain in 
houses not built of hewn stone or brick, has tended greatly to 



COLOURING OF BUILDINGS. 161 

injure English landscape, and the neighbourhood of these 
Lakes especially, by furnishing such apt occasion for whitening 
buildings. That white should be a favourite colour for rural 
residences is natural for many reasons. The mere aspect of 
cleanliness and neatness thus given, not only to an individual 
house, but, where the practice is general, to the whole face of 
the country, produces moral associations so powerful that, in 
many minds, they take place of all others. But what has already 
been said upon the subject of cottages, must have convinced men 
of feeling and imagination, that a human dwelling of the hum- 
blest class may be rendered more deeply interesting to the affec- 
tions, and far more pleasing to the eye, by other influences, than 
a sprightly tone of colour spread over its outside. I do not, 
however, mean to deny, that a small white building, embowered 
in trees, may, in some situations, be a delightful and animating ob- 
ject — in no way injurious to the landscape ; but this only where it 
sparkles from the midst of a thick shade, and in rare and solitary 
instances ; especially if the country be itself rich and pleasing, 
and abound with grand forms. On the sides of bleak and deso- 
late moors, we are indeed thankful for the sight of white cottages 
and white houses plentifully scattered, where, without these, 
perhaps every thing would be cheerless : this is said, however, 
with hesitation, and with a wilful sacrifice of some higher enjoy- 
ments. But I have certainly seen such buildings glittering at 
sunrise, and in wandering lights, with no common pleasure. The 
continental traveller also will remember, that the convents hang- 
ing from the rocks of the Rhine, the Rhone, the Danube, or 
among the Appenines, or the mountains of Spain, are not looked 
at with less complacency when, as is often the case, they happen 
to be of a brilliant white. But this is perhaps owing, in no small 
degree, to the contrast of that lively colour with the gloom of 
monastic life, and to the general want of rural residences of 
smiling and attractive appearance, in those countries. 

The objections to white, as a colour, in large spots or masses 
in landscape, especially in a mountainous country, are insurmount- 
able. In nature, pure white is scarcely ever found but in small 
objects, such as flowers ; or in those which are transitory, as the 
clouds, foam of rivers, and snow. Mr. Gilpin, who notices this, 

has also recorded the just remark of Mr. Locke, of N » 

that white destroys the gradations of distance ; and, therefore, 

Q 



162 THE LARCH. 

an object of pure white can scarcely ever be managed with good 
effect in landscape-painting. Five or six white houses, scattered 
over a valley, by their obtrusiveness, dot the surface, and divide 
it into triangles, or other mathematical figures, haunting the eye, 
and disturbing that repose which might otherwise be perfect. I 
have seen a single white house materially impair the majesty of 
a mountain ; cutting away, by a harsh separation, the whole of 
its base below the point on which the house stood. Thus was the 
apparent size of the mountain reduced, not by the interposition 
of another object in a manner to call forth the imagination, 
which will give more than the eye loses : but what had been 
abstracted in this case was left visible ; and the mountain ap- 
peared to take its beginning, or to rise, from the line of the 
house, instead of its own natural base. But, if I may express 
my own individual feeling, it is after sunset, at the coming on of 
twilight, that white objects are most to be complained of. The 
solemnity and quietness of nature at that time are always marred, 
and often destroyed, by them. When the ground is covered 
with snow, they are of course inoffensive ; and in moonshine 
they are always pleasing — it is a tone of light with which they 
accord : and the dimness of the scene is enlivened by an object 
at once conspicuous and cheerful. I will conclude this subject 
with noticing, that the cold slaty colour, which many persons 
who have heard the white condemned have adopted in its stead, 
must be disapproved of for the reason already given. The 
flaring yellow runs into the opposite extreme, and is still more 
censurable. Upon the whole, the safest colour, for general use, 
is something between a cream and a dust colour, commonly called 
stone colour ; — there are, among the Lakes, examples of this 
that need not be pointed out.* 

The principle taken as our guide, viz. that the house should 
be so formed, and of such apparent size and colour, as to admit 
of its being gently incorporated with the works of nature, 
should also be applied to the management of the grounds and 
plantations, and is here more urgently needed ; for it is from 
abuses in this department, far more even than from the intro- 



* A proper colouring of houses is now becoming general. It is 
best that the colouring material should be mixed with the rough-cast, 
and not laid on as a wash afterwards. 



PLANTING. 163 

duction of exotics in architecture (if the phrase may be used), 
that this country has suffered. Larch and fir plantations have 
been spread, not merely with a view to profit, but in many 
instances for the sake of ornament. To those who plant for 
profit, and are thrusting every other tree out of the way, to 
make room for their favourite, the larch, I would utter first a 
regret, that they should have selected these lovely vales for 
their vegetable manufactory, when there is so much barren 
and irreclaimable land in the neighbouring moors, and in other 
parts of the island, which might have been had for this purpose 
at a far cheaper rate. And I will also beg leave to represent to 
them, that they ought not to be carried away by flattering 
promises from the speedy growth of this tree ; because in rich 
soils and sheltered situations, the wood, though it thrives fast, is 
full of sap, and of little value : and is, likewise, very subject to 
ravage from the attacks of insects, and from blight. Accord- 
ingly, in Scotland, where planting is much better understood, 
and carried on upon an incomparably larger scale than among us, 
good soil and sheltered situations are appropriated to the oak, 
the ash, and other deciduous trees ; and the larch is now gener- 
ally confined to barren and exposed ground. There the plant, 
which is a hardy one, is of slower growth ; much less liable to 
injury ; and the timber is of better quality. But the circum- 
stances of many permit, and their taste leads them, to plant with 
little regard to profit ; and there are others, less wealthy, who 
have such a lively feeling of the native beauty of these scenes, 
that they are laudably not unwilling to make some sacrifices to 
heighten it. Both these classes of persons, I would entreat to 
enquire of themselves wherein that beauty which they admire 
consists. They would then see that, after the feeling has been 
gratified that prompts us to gather round our dwelling a few 
flowers and shrubs, which, from the circumstance of their not 
being native, may, by their very looks remind us that they owe 
their existence to our hands, and their prosperity to our care ; 
they will see that, after this natural desire has been provided for, 
the course of all beyond has been predetermined by the spirit of 
the place. Before I proceed, I will remind those who are not 
satisfied with the restraint thus laid upon them, that they are 
liable to a charge of inconsistency, when they are so eager to 
change «the face of that country, whose native attractions, by 

Q.2 



164 PLANTING. 

the act of erecting their habitations in it, they have so emphati- 
cally acknowledged. And surely there is not a single spot that 
would not have, if well managed^ sufficient dignity to support 
itself, unaided by the productions of other climates, or by elaborate 
decorations which might be becoming elsewhere. 

Having adverted to the feelings that justify the introduction of 
a few exotic plants, provided they be confined almost to the 
doors of the house ; we may add, that a transition should be 
contrived, without abruptness, from these foreigners to the rest of 
the shrubs, which ought to be of the kinds scattered by Nature 
through the woods — holly, broom, wild-rose, elder, dogberry, 
white and black thorn, &c — either these only, or such as are 
carefully selected in consequence of their being united in form, 
and harmonising in colour with them, especially with respect to 
colour, when the tints are most diversified, as in autumn and 
spring. The various sorts of fruit-and-blossom-bearing trees 
usually found in orchards, to which may be added those of the 
woods, — namely, the wilding, black-cherry tree, and wild 
cluster-cherry (here called heck-berry) — may be happily admitted 
as an intermediate link between the shrubs and the forest trees ; 
which last ought almost entirely to be such as are natives of the 
country. Of the birch, one of the most beautiful of the native 
trees, it maybe noticed, that in dry and rocky situations, it outstrips 
even the larch, which many persons are tempted to plant merely 
on account of the speed of its growth. The Scotch fir is less 
attractive during its youth than any other plant ; but, when full- 
grown, if it has haa room to spread out its arms, it becomes a 
noble tree ; and, by those who are disinterested enough to 
plant for posterity, it may be placed along with the sycamore 
near the house ; for, from their massiveness, both these trees 
unite well with buildings, and in some situations with rocks also ; 
having, in their forms and apparent substances, the effect of 
something intermediate betwixt the immoveableness and solidity 
of stone, and the spray and foliage of the lighter trees. If 
these general rules be just, what shall we say to whole acres of 
artificial shrubbery and exotic trees among rocks and dashing 
torrents, with their own wild wood in sight — where we have the 
whole contents of the nurseryman's catalogue jumbled together — 
colour at war with colour, and form with form ? — among the 
most peaceful subjects of Nature's kingdom, everywhere discord, 



PLANTING, 165 

distraction, and bewilderment! But this deformity, bad as it is, 
is not so obtrusive as the small patches and large tracts of larch- 
plantations that are overrunning the hill sides. To justify our 
condemnation of these, let us again recur to Nature. The 
process, by which she forms woods and forests, is as follows. 
Seeds are scattered indiscriminately by winds, brought by 
w r aters, and dropped by birds. They perish or produce, accord- 
ing as the soil and situation upon which they fall are suited to 
them: and under the same dependence, the seedling or the 
sucker, if not cropped by animals (which Nature is often careful 
to prevent by fencing it about with brambles or other prickly 
shrubs), thrives, and the tree grows, sometimes single, taking 
its own shape without constraint, but for the most part compelled 
to conform itself to some law imposed upon it by its neighbours. 
From low and sheltered places, vegetation travels upwards to 
the more exposed; and the young plants are protected, and to 
a certain degree fashioned, by those that have preceded them. 
The continuous mass of foliage which w r ould be thus produced, is 
broken by rocks, or by glades or open places, where the browz- 
ing of animals has prevented the growth of wood. As vegeta- 
tion ascends, the winds begin also to bear their part in moulding 
the forms of the trees; but, thus mutually protected, trees, 
though not of the hardiest kind, are enabled to climb high up the 
mountains. Gradually, however, by the quality of the ground, 
and by increasing exposure, a stop is put to their ascent ; the 
hardy trees only are left: those also, by little and little, give 
way — and a wild and irregular boundary is established, graceful 
in its outline, and never contemplated without some feeling, 
more or less distinct, of the powers of Nature by which it is 
imposed. 

Contrast the liberty that encourages, and the law that limits, 
this joint work of nature and time, with the disheartening 
necessities, restrictions, and disadvantages, under which the 
artificial planter must proceed, even he whom long observation 
and fine feeling have best qualified for his task. In the first 
place, his trees, however well chosen and adapted to their 
several situations, must generally start all at the same time ; and 
this necessity would of itself prevent that fine connexion of 
parts, that sympathy and organization, if I may so express 
myself, which pervades the whole of a natural wood, and ap- 

q 3 



166 PLANTING. 

pears to the eye in its single trees, its masses of foliage, and 
their various colours, when they are held up to view on the side 
of a mountain ; or when, spread over a valley, they are looked 
down upon from an eminence. It is therefore impossible, under 
any circumstances, for the artificial planter to rival the beauty of 
nature. But a moment's thought will show that, if ten thousand 
of this spiky tree, the larch, are stuck in at once upon the side 
of a hill, they can grow up into nothing but deformity ; that, 
while they are suffered to stand, we shall look in vain for any of 
those appearances which are the chief sources of beauty in a 
natural wood. 

It must be acknowledged that the larch, till it has outgrown 
the size of a shrub, shows, when looked at singly, some elegance 
in form and appearance, especially in spring, decorated, as it 
then is, by the pink tassels of its blossoms; but, as a tree, it is 
less than any other pleasing: its branches (for boughs it has 
none) have no variety in the youth of the tree, and little dignity, 
even when it attains its full growth ; leaves it cannot be said to 
have, consequently neither affords shade nor shelter. In spring 
the larch becomes green long before the native trees ; and its 
green is so peculiar and vivid, that, finding nothing to harmonize 
with it, wherever it comes forth, a disagreeable speck is produc- 
ed. In summer, when all other trees are in their pride, it is of 
a dingy lifeless hue; in autumn of a spiritless unvaried yellow ; 
and, in winter, it is still more lamentably distinguished from 
every other deciduous tree of the forest, for they seem only to 
sleep, but the larch appears absolutely dead. If an attempt be 
made to mingle thickets, or a certain proportion of other forest 
trees, with the larch, its horizontal branches intolerantly cut 
them down as with a scythe, or force them to spindle up to keep 
pace with it. The terminating spike renders it impossible that 
the several trees, where planted in numbers, should ever blend 
together so as to form a mass or masses of wood. Add thou- 
sands to tens of thousands, and the appearance is still the same 
— a collection of separate individual trees, obstinately presenting 
themselves as such ; and which, from whatever point they are 
looked at, if but seen, may be counted upon the fingers. Sun- 
shine or shadow, has little power to adorn the surface of such a 
wood ; and the trees not carrying up their heads, the wind 
raises among them no majestic undulations. It is indeed true, 



PLANTING. 167 

that, in countries where the larch is a native, and where, 
without interruption it may sweep from valley to valley, and 
from hill to hill, a sublime image may be produced by such a 
forest, in the same manner as by one composed of any other 
single tree, to the spreading of which no limits can be assigned. 
For sublimity will never be wanting where the sense of innu- 
merable multitude is lost in, and alternates with, that of intense 
unity ; and to the ready perception of this effect, similarity and 
almost identity of individual form and monotony of colour con- 
tribute. But this feeling is confined to the native immeasurable 
forest ; no artificial plantation can give it. 

The foregoing observations will, I hope (as nothing has been 
condemned or recommended without a substantial reason), have 
some influence upon those who plant for ornament merely. To 
such as plant for profit, I have already spoken. Let me then 
entreat that the native deciduous trees may be left in complete 
possession of the lower ground ; and that plantations of larch, 
if introduced at all, may be confined to the highest and most 
barren tracts. Interposition of rocks would there break the 
dreary uniformity of w r hich we have been complaining ; and the 
winds would take hold of the trees, and imprint upon their shapes 
a wildness congenial to their situation. 

Having determined what kind of trees must be wholly reject- 
ed, or at least very sparingly used, by those who are unwilling 
to disfigure the country ; and having shown what kinds ought 
to be chosen ; 1 should have given, if my limits had not already 
been overstepped, a few practical rules for the manner in which 
trees ought to be disposed in planting. But to this subject I 
should attach little importance, if I could succeed in banishing 
such trees as introduced deformity, and could prevail upon the 
proprietor to confine himself, either to those found in the native 
woods, or to such as accord with them. This is, indeed, the 
main point ; for, much as these scenes have been injured by 
what has been taken from them — buildings, trees, and woods, 
either through negligence, necessity, avarice, or caprice — it is 
not the removals, but the harsh additions that have been made^ 
which are the worst grievance — a standing and unavoidable 
annoyance. Often have I felt this distinction, with mingled 
satisfaction and regret , for, if no positive deformity or discord- 
ance be substituted or superinduced, such is the benignity of 



188 FURTHER CHANGES PROBABLE. 

Nature, that, take away from her beauty after beauty, and 
ornament after ornament, her appearance cannot be marred — the 
scars, if any be left, will gradually disappear before a healing 
spirit ; and what remains will still be soothing and pleasing. — 

"Many hearts deplored 
The fate of those old trees ; and oft with pain 
The traveller at this day will stop and gaze 
On wrongs which nature scarcely seems to heed : 
For sheltered places, bosoms, nooks, and bays, 
And the pure mountains, and the gentle Tweed, 
And the green silent pastures, yet remain." 

There are few ancient woods left in this part of England upon 
which such indiscriminate ravage as is here " deplored," could 
now be committed. But, out of the numerous copses, fine 
woods might in time be raised, probably without sacrifice of 
profit, by leaving, at the periodical fellings, a due proportion of 
the healthiest trees to grow up into timber. — This plan has 
fortunately, in many instances, been adopted; and they who 
have set the example, are entitled to the thanks of all persons of 
taste. As to the management of planting with reasonable at- 
tention to ornament, let the images of nature be your guide, 
and the whole secret lurks in a few words ; thickets or under- 
woods — single trees — trees clustered or in groups — groves — 
unbroken woods, but with varied masses of foliage — glades — 
invisible or winding boundaries — in rocky districts, a seemly- 
proportion of rock left wholly bare, and other parts half hidden 
— disagreeable objects concealed, and formal lines broken— trees 
climbing up to the horizon, and, in some places, ascending from 
its sharp edge, in which they are rooted, with the whole body 
of the tree appearing to stand in the clear sky — in other parts, 
woods surmounted by rocks utterly bare and naked, which add 
to the sense of height, as if vegetation could not thither be 
carried, and impress a feeling of duration, power of resistance, 
and security from change ! 

The author has been induced to speak thus at length, by a wish- 
to preserve the native beauty of this delightful district, because 
still further changes in its appearance must inevitably follow, 
from the change of inhabitants and owners which is rapidly 
taking place. About the same time that strangers began to be 



FURTHER CHANGES PROBABLE. 169 

attracted to the country, and to feel a desire to settle in it, the 
difficulty, that would have stood in the way of procuring situa- 
tions, was lessened by an unfortunate alteration in the circum- 
stances of the native peasantry, proceeding from a cause which 
then began to operate, and is now felt in every house. The 
family of each man, whether estatesman or farmer, formerly 
had a twofold support ; first, the produce of his lands and flocks; 
and, secondly, the profit drawn from the employment of the 
woman and children, as manufacturers ; spinning their own wool 
in their own houses (work chiefly done in the winter season), and 
carrying it to market for sale. Hence, however numerous the 
children, the income of the family kept pace with its increase. 
But, by the invention and universal application of machinery, 
this second resource has been cut off"; the gains being so far 
reduced, as not to be sought after but by a few aged persons 
disabled from other employment. Doubtless, the invention of 
machinery has not been to these people a pure loss ; for the 
profits arising from home-manufactures operated as a strong 
temptation to choose that mode of labour in neglect of husbandry. 
They also participate in the general benefit which the island has 
derived from the increased value of the produce of land, brought 
about by the establishment of manufactures, and by the consequent 
quickening of agricultural industry. But this is far from making 
them amends ; and now that home-manufactures are nearly done 
away, though the women and children might, at many seasons of 
the year, employ themselves with advantage in the fields beyond 
what they are accustomed to do, yet still all possible exertion in 
this way cannot be rationally expected from persons whose agri- 
cultural knowledge is so confined, and, above all, where there must 
necessarily be so small a capital. The consequence, then, is — 
that proprietors and farmers being no longer able to maintain 
themselves upon small farms, several are united in one, and the 
buildings go to decay, or are destroyed; and that the lands of the 
estatesmen being mortgaged, and the owners being constrained to 
part with them, they fall into the hands of wealthy purchasers, 
who, in like manner, unite and consolidate ; and, if they wish to 
become residents, erect new mansions out of the ruins of the 
ancient cottages, whose little enclosures, with all the wild graces 
that grew out of them, disappear. The feudal tenure under 
which the estates are held, has indeed done something towards 



170 FURTHER CHANGES TROBABLE. 

checking this influx of new settlers ; but so strong is the inclina- 
tion, that these galling restraints are endured ; and it is probable, 
that in a few years the country on the margin of the Lakes will 
fall almost entirely into the possession of gentry, either strangers 
or natives. It is then much to be wished, that a better taste 
should prevail among these new proprietors; and, as they cannot 
be expected to leave things to themselves, that skill and know- 
ledge should prevent unnecessary deviations from that path of 
simplicity and beauty along which, without design and unconsci- 
ously, their humble predecessors have moved. In this wish the 
author will be joined by persons of pure taste throughout the 
whole island, who, by their visits (often repeated) to the Lakes 
in the North of England, testify that they deem the district a 
sort of national propert}', in which every man has a right and 
interest who has an eye to perceive, and a heart to enjoy. 



171 



SECTION FOURTH. 



ALPINE SCENES COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. 



As a resident among the Lakes, I frequently hear the scenery of 
this country compared with that of the Alps ; and therefore a 
few words shall be added to what has been incidentally said upon 
that subject. 

If we could recall, to this region of the lakes, the native pine- 
forests, with which many hundred years ago a large portion of 
the heights was covered ; then, during spring and autumn, it 
might frequently, with much propriety, be compared to Switzer- 
land, — the elements of the landscape would be the same, — one 
country representing the other in miniature. Towns, villages, 
churches, rural seats, bridges and roads, green meadows and 
arable grounds, with their various produce, and deciduous woods 
of diversified foliage which occupy the vales and lower regions 
of the mountains, would, as in Switzerland, be divided by dark 
forests from ridges and round- topped heights covered with snow, 
and from pikes and sharp declivities imperfectly arrayed in the 
same glittering mantle : and the resemblance would be still 
more perfect on those days when vapours, resting upon and 
floating around the summits, leave the elevation of the mountains 
less dependent upon the eye than on the imagination. But the 
pine-forests have wholly disappeared: and only during late spring 
and early autumn is realized here that assemblage of the imagery 
of different seasons, which is exhibited through the whole sum- 
mer among the Alps, — winter in the distance, — and w T armth, 
leafy woods, verdure and fertility at hand, and widely diffused. 

Striking out, then, from among the permanent materials of the 
landscape, that stage of vegetation which is occupied by pine- 
forests, and, above that, the perennial snows, we have moun- 
tains, the highest of which little exceed 3,000 feet, while some 
of the Alps do not fall short of 14,000 or 15,000, and 8,000 or 



172 ALPINE SCENES 

10,000 is not an uncommon elevation. Our tracts of wood and 
water are almost as diminutive in comparison ; therefore, as far 
as sublimity is dependent upon absolute bulk and height, and 
atmospherical influences in connection with these, it is obvious 
that there can be no rivalship. But a short residence among the 
British Mountains will furnish abundant proof, that, after a cer- 
tain point of elevation, viz. that which allows of compact and 
fleecy clouds settling upon or sweeping over the summits, the 
sense of sublimity depends more upon form and relation of 
objects to each other than upon their actual magnitude ; and, 
that an elevation of 3,000 feet is sufficient to call forth in a 
most impressive degree the creative, and magnifying, and soften- 
ing powers of the atmosphere. Hence, on the score even of 
sublimity, the superiority of the Alps is by no means so great as 
might hastily be inferred ; — and, as to the beauty of the lower 
regions of the Swiss Mountains, it is noticeable — that, as they are 
all regularly mown, their surface has nothing of that mellow 
tone and variety of hues by which mountain turf, that is never 
touched by the scythe, is distinguished. On the smooth and 
steep slopes of the Swiss hills, these plots of verdure do indeed 
agreeably unite their colour with that of the deciduous trees, or 
make a lively contrast with the dark green pine groves that 
define them, and among which they run in endless variety of 
shapes — but this is most pleasing at first sight ; the permanent 
gratification of the eye requires finer gradations of tone, and a 
more delicate blending of hues into each other. Besides, it is 
only in spring and late autumn that cattle animate by their 
presence the Swiss lawns; and, though the pastures of the higher 
regions where they feed during the summer are left in their 
natural state of flowery herbage, those pastures are so remote, 
that their texture and colour are of no consequence in the com- 
position of any picture in which a lake of the Vales is a feature. 
Yet in those lofty regions, how vegetation is invigorated by the 
genial climate of that country! Among the luxuriant flowers 
there met with, groves, or forests, if I may so call them, of 
Monk's-hood are frequently seen ; the flower of deep rich blue, 
and as tall as in our gardens ; and this at an elevation where, in 
Cumberland, Icelandic moss would only be found, or the stony 
summits be utterly bare. 

We have, then, for the colouring of Switzerland, principally 



COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. 173 

a vivid green herbage, black woods, and dazzling snows, pre- 
sented in masses with a grandeur to which no one can be insens- 
ible ; but not often graduated by Nature into soothing harmony, 
and so ill suited to the pencil, that though abundance of good 
subjects may be there found, they are not such as can be deemed 
characteristic of the country ; nor is this unfitness confined to 
colour : the forms of the mountains, though many of them in 
some points of view the noblest that can be conceived, are apt 
to run into spikes and needles, and present a jagged outline, 
which has a mean effect transferred to canvass. This must have 
been felt by the ancient masters ; for, if I am not mistaken, they 
have not left a single landscape, the materials of which are 
taken from the peculiar features of the Alps ; yet Titian passed 
his life almost in their neighbourhood ; the Poussins and Claude 
must have been well acquainted with their aspects ; and several 
admirable painters, as Tibaldi and Luino, were born among the 
Italian Alps. A few experiments have lately been made by 
Englishmen, but they only prove that courage, skill, and judg- 
ment may surmount any obstacles ; and it may be safely affirmed, 
that they who have done best in this bold adventure, will be the 
least likely to repeat the attempt. But, though our scenes are 
better suited to painting than those of the Alps, I should be 
sorry to contemplate either country in reference to that art, 
further than as its fitness or unfitness for the pencil renders it 
more or less pleasing to the eye of the spectator, who has learn- 
ed to observe and feel, chiefly from Nature herself. 

Deeming the points in which Alpine imagery is superior to 
British too obvious to be insisted upon, I will observe that the 
deciduous woods, though in many places unapproachable by the 
axe, and triumphing in the pomp and prodigality of Nature, 
have, in general,* neither the variety nor beauty which would 
exist in those of the mountains of Britain, if left to themselves. 
Magnificent walnut-trees grow upon the plains of Switzerland; 
and fine trees of that species are found scattered over the hill- 
sides : birches also grow here and there in luxuriant beauty ; but 
neither these, nor oaks, are ever a prevailing tree, nor can even be 
said to be common ; and the oaks, as far as I had an opportunity of 
observing, are greatly inferior to those of Britain. Among the 

* The greatest variety of trees is found in the Valais. 

R 



}74 ALPINE SCENES 

interior valleys, the proportion of beeches and pines is so great 
that other trees are scarcely noticeable; and surely such woods 
are at all seasons much less agreeable than that rich and harmoni- 
ous distribution of oak, ash, elm, birch, and alder, that formerly 
clothed the sides of Snowdon and Helvellyn, and of which no 
mean remains still survive at the head of Ullswater. On the 
Italian side of the Alps, chesnut and walnut trees grow at a con- 
siderable height on the mountains ; but, even there, the foliage 
is not equal in beauty to the " natural product" of this climate. 
In fact, the sunshine of the South of Europe, so envied when 
heard of at a distance, is in many respects injurious to rural 
beauty, particularly as it incites to the cultivation of spots of 
ground which in colder climates would be left in the hands of 
nature, favouring at the same time the culture of plants that are 
more valuable on account of the fruit they produce to gratify the 
palate, than for affording pleasure to the eye as materials of 
landscape. Take, for instance, the Promontory of Bellagio, so 
fortunate in its command of the three branches of the Lake of 
Como, yet the ridge of the Promontory itself, being for the most 
part covered with vines interspersed with olive trees, accords but 
ill with the vastness of the green unappropriated mountains, and 
derogates not a little from the sublimity of those finely-contrasted 
pictures to which it is a fore-ground. The vine, when cultivated 
upon a large scale, notwithstanding all that may be said of it in 
poetry,* makes but a dull formal appearance in landscape ; and 
the olive tree (though one is loath to say so) is not more grateful 
to the eye than our common willow, which it much resembles; 
but the hoariness of hue, common to both, has in the aquatic 
plant an appropriate delicacy, harmonising with the situation in 
which it most delights. The same may no doubt be said of the 
olive among the dry rocks of Attica, but I am speaking of it as 

* Lucretius has charmingly described a scene of this kind. 
"Inque dies magis in montem succedere s vivas 
Cogebant, infr&que locum concedere cultis : 
Prata, lacus, rivos, segetes, vinetaque la?ta 
Collibus et campis ut haberent, atque olearum 
Ccerula distinguens inter playa currere posset 
Per tumulos, et convalleis, camposque profusa : 
Ut nunc esse vides vario distincta lepore 
Omnia, quae pomis intersita dulcibus ornant, 
Arbustisque tenent felicibus obsita cireum*'* 



COMPARED WITH CUMBRIAN. 175 

found in gardens and vineyards in the North of Italy. At Bel- 
lagio, what Englishman can resist the temptation of substituting, 
in his fancy, for these formal treasures of cultivation, the natu- 
ral variety of one of our parks — its pastured lawns, coverts of 
hawthorn, of wild-rose, and honeysuckle, and the majesty of 
forest trees? — such wild graces as the banks of Derwent-water 
shewed in the time of the Ratcliffes ; and Gowbarrow Park, 
Lowther, and Rydal do at this day. 

As my object is to reconcile a Briton to the scenery of his 
own country, though not at the expense of truth, I am not afraid 
of asserting that in many points of view our Lakes, also, are 
much more interesting than those of the Alps ; first, as is im- 
plied above, from being more happily proportioned to the other 
features of the landscape ^ and next, both as being infinitely more 
pellucid, and less subject to agitation from the winds.* Como 
(which may perhaps be styled the King of Lakes, as Lugano is cer- 
tainly the Queen) is disturbed by a periodical wind blowing from 
the head in the morning, and towards it in the afternoon. The 
magnificent Lake of the four Cantons, especially its noblest divi- 
sion, called the Lake of Uri, is not only much agitated by winds, 
but in the night time is disturbed from the bottom, as I was told, 
and indeed as I witnessed, without any apparent commotion in the 
air ; and when at rest, the water is not pure to the eye, but of a 
heavy green hue — as is that of all the other lakes, apparently ac- 
cording to the degree in which they are fed by melted snows. 
If the Lake of Geneva furnish an exception, this is probably 
owing to its vast extent, which allows the water to deposit its 
impurities. * The water of the English lakes, on the contrary, 

* It is remarkable that Como (as is probably the case with other 
Italian Lakes) is more troubled by storms in summer than in winter. 
Hence the propriety of the following verses. 

" Lari ! margine ubique confragoso 
Nulli ccelicolum negas sacellum 
Picto pariete saxeoque tecto ; 
Hinc miracula multa na-vitarum 
Audis, nee placido refellis ore, 
Sed nova usque paras, Noto vel Euro 
JEstivas quatientibus cavernas, 
Vel surgentis ab Adduse cubili 
Caeco grandinis imbre provoluto."— Landob. 
r 2 



176 PHENOMENA. 

being of crystalline clearness, the reflections of the surrounding 
hills are frequently so lively, that it is scarcely possible to dis- 
tinguish the point where the real object terminates and its un- 
substantial duplicate begins. The lower part of the Lake of 
Geneva, from its narrowness, must be much less subject to agi- 
tation than the higher divisions, and, as the water is clearer than 
that of the other Swiss lakes, it will frequently exhibit this ap- 
pearance, though it is scarcely possible in an equal degree. 
During two comprehensive tours among the Alps, I did not ob- 
serve, except on one of the smaller lakes, between Lugano and 
Ponte Tresa, a single instance of those beautiful repetitions of 
surrounding objects on the bosom of the water, which are so 
frequently seen here : not to speak of the fine dazzling trembling 
net-work, breezy motions, and streaks and circles of intermingled 
smooth and rippled water, which makes the surface of our lakes 
a field of endless variety. But among the Alps, where every 
thing tends to the grand and the sublime, in surfaces as well as 
in forms, if the lakes do not court the placid reflections of land 
objects, those of first-rate magnitude make compensation, in 
some degree, by exhibiting those ever-changing fields of green, 
blue, and purple shadows or lights (one scarcely knows which 
to name them), that call to mind a sea-prospect contemplated 
from a lofty cliff. 

The subject of torrents and water-falls has already been 
touched upon ; but it may be added, that in Switzerland, the 
perpetual accompaniment of snow upon the higher regions takes 
much from the effect of foaming white streams ; while, from 
their frequency, they obstruct each other's influence upon the 
mind of the spectator ; and, in all cases, the effect of an individ- 
ual cataract, excepting the great Fall of the Rhine at Schaff hau- 
sen, is diminished by the general fury of the stream of which it 
is a part. 

Recurring to the reflections from still water, I will describe a 
singular phenomenon of this kind of which I was an eye-witness. 
Walking by the side of Ullswater upon a calm September 
morning, I saw, deep within the bosom of the lake, a magnificent 
Castle, with towers and battlements ; nothing could be more 
distinct than the whole edifice ; — after gazing with delight upon 
it for some time, as upon a work of enchantment, I could not 
but regret that my previous knowledge of the place enabled me 



PHENOMENA. 177 

to account for the appearance. It was in fact the reflection of a 
pleasure-house called Lyulph's Tower — the towers and battle- 
ments magnified and so much changed in shape as not to be im- 
mediately recognized. In the meanwhile, the pleasure-house 
itself w r as altogether hidden from my view by a body of vapour 
stretching over it and along the hill- side on which it stands, but 
not so as to have intercepted its communication with the lake ; 
and hence this novel and most impressive object, which, if I had 
been a stranger to the spot, would, from its being inexplicable, 
have long detained the mind in a state of pleasing astonishment. 

Appearances of this kind, acting upon the credulity of early 
ages, may have given birth to, and favoured the belief in, stories 
of subaqueous palaces, gardens, and pleasure-grounds — the bril- 
liant ornaments of Romance. 

With this inverted scene I will couple a much more extraor- 
dinary phenomenon, which will shew how other elegant fancies 
may have had their origin, less in invention than in the actual 
processes of nature. 

About eleven o'clock on the forenoon of a winter's day, com- 
ing suddenly, in company of a friend, into view of the Lake of 
Grasmere, we were alarmed by the sight of a newly-created 
island. The transitory thought of the moment was, that it had 
been produced by an earthquake or some other convulsion of 
nature. Recovering from the alarm, which was greater than 
the reader can possibly sympathize with, but which was shared 
to its full extent by my companion, we proceeded to examine 
the object before us. The elevation of this new island exceeded 
considerably that of the old one, its neighbour ; it was likewise 
larger in circumference, comprehending a space of about five 
acres ; its surface rocky, speckled with snow, and sprinkled over 
with birch trees ; it was divided towards the south from the other 
island by a narrow frith, and in like manner from the northern 
shore of the lake ; on the east and west it was separated from 
the shore by a much larger space of smooth water. 

Marvellous was the illusion ! Comparing the new with the 
old Island, the surface of which is soft, green, and unvaried, I 
do not scruple to say that, as an object of sight, it was much the 
more distinct. " How little faith," we exclaimed, " is due to 
one sense, unless its evidence be confirmed by some of its fellows! 
What Stranger could possibly be persuaded that this, which we 

e 3 



178 COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE. 

know to bean unsubstantial mockery, \s really so; and that there 
exists only a single Island on this beautiful Lake?" At length 
the appearance underwent a gradual transmutation ; it lost its 
prominence and passed into a glimmering and dim inversion, and 
then totally disappeared; — leaving behind it a clear open area of 
ice of the same dimensions. We now perceived that this bed of 
ice, which was thinly suffused with water, and produced the illu- 
sion, by reflecting and refracting (as persons skilled in optics 
would no doubt easily explain) a rocky and woody section of the 
opposite mountain named Silver-how. 

Having dwelt so much upon the beauty of pure and still water, 
and pointed out the advantage which the Lakes of the North of 
England haye in this particular over those of the Alps, it would 
be injustice not to advert to the sublimity that must often be 
given to Alpine scenes, by the agitations to which those vast 
bodies of diffused water are there subject. I have witnessed 
many tremendous thunder-storms among the Alps, and the m 
glorious effects of light and shadow : but I never happened to be 
present when any lake was agitated by those hurricanes which I 
imagine must often torment them. If the commotions be at all 
proportionable to the expanse and depth of the waters, and the 
height of the surrounding mountains, then, if I may judge from 
what is frequently seen here, the exhibition moat be awful and 
astonishing. — On this day, March 30, 1822, the winds have been 
acting upon the small Luke of Rydal, as if they had received 
command to carry its waters from their bed into the sky : the 
white billows in different quarters disappeared under clouds, or 
rather drifts of spray, that were whirled along, and up intu the 
air by scouring winds, charging each other in squadrons in every 
direction, upon the Lake. The spray, having been hurried aloft 
till it lost its consistency and whiteness, was driven along the 
mountain tops like flying showers that vanish in the distance. 
Frequently an eddying wind scooped the waters out of the basin, 
and forced them upwards in the very shape of an Icelandic Gey- 
ser, or boiling fountain, to the height of several hundred feet. 

This small Mere of Rydal, from its position, is subject in a pe^ 
culiar degree to these commotions. The present season, how- 
ever, is unusually stormy : — great numbers of fish, two of them 
not less than twelve pounds weight, were a few days ago t 
on the shores of Derwent-water by the force of the waves. 



COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE. 179 

Lest, in the foregoing comparative estimate, I should be sus- 
pected of partiality to my native mountains, I will support my 
general opinion by the authority of Mr. West, whose Guide to 
the Lakes has been eminently serviceable to the Tourist for 
nearly 50 years. The Author, a Roman Catholic Clergyman, 
had passed much time abroad, and was well acquainted with the 
scenery of the Continent. He thus expresses himself: " They 
who intend to make the continental tour should begin here ; as 
it will give, in miniature, an idea of what they are to meet with 
there, in traversing the Alps and Appennines ; to which our 
northern mountains are not inferior in beauty of line, or variety 
of summit, number of lakes and transparency of water ; not in 
colouring of rock, or softness of turf; but in height and extent 
only. The mountains here are all accessible to the summit, and 
furnish prospects no less surprising, and with more variety, than 
the Alps themselves. The tops of the highest Alps are inaccess- 
ible, being covered with everlasting snow, which, commencing at 
regular heights above the cultivated tracts, or wooded and ver- 
dant sides, form indeed the highest contrast in nature. For 
there may be seen all the variety of climate in one view. To 
this, however, we oppose the sight of the ocean, from the sum- 
mits of all the higher mountains, as it appears intersected with 
promontories, decorated with islands, and animated with navi- 
gation." — West's Guide, p. 5. 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT, 

IN 

Cfiree betters 

ADDRESSED TO 

W. WORDSWORTH, Esq. 

BY THE 

REV. PROFESSOR SEDGWICK, M.A., F.R.S., &c. 

WOODWARDIAN PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGY IN THE 
UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE. 



THREE LETTERS 



GEOLOGY OF THE LAKE DISTRICT. 



LETTER I. 

My dear Sir, — In writing these letters, I am only endea- 
vouring to perform a promise, made many years since, when I 
had the happiness of rambling with you through some of the 
hills and valleys of your native country. One of your greatest 
works seems to contain a poetic ban against my brethren of the 
hammer, and some of them may have well deserved your cen- 
sures : for every science has its minute philosophers, who neither 
have the will to soar above the material things around them, nor 
the power of rising to the contemplation of those laws by which 
Nature binds into union the different portions of her kingdom. 
But Geology has now a different form and stature from what she 
had in earlier days: she is the handmaid of labourers who are 
toiling, as they believe, for the good of their fellow men: she 
claims kindred with all the offspring of exact knowledge : and 
she lends no vulgar help to the loftiest investigations of human 
thought. To reject her altogether, can only be done consistently 
by one who shuts his eyes to the light of material science ; and 
this, I know, is no part of your philosophy ; for no one has put 
forth nobler views of the universality of nature's kingdom than 
yourself. You wish not her provinces to be dissevered, but each 
of them to contribute to the good of the whole state. You 
believe however, and I subscribe to the same creed, that material 
science is only so far truly good, as it tends to elevate the mind 
of man ; giving him a higher conception of his capacities and 
duties, and a better power in following them to their proper end. 



186 GEOLOGY OF THE 

All nature bears the impress of one great Creative Mind, and 
all parts of knowledge are, therefore, of one kindred and family. 
In toiling along the narrow path leading to some favourite object 
of our search, we may perhaps forget the world without us, and 
so become bigots in our philosophy ; labouring only for our own 
ends, or at best for that which may seem but for the good of a 
sect or party. True philosophy has a loftier and better aim. 
Truth, of whatever kind, she considers as a part of herself, 
which she has to bring under the government of her will ; and 
her only end is "the glory of God, and the good of man's 
estate." 

But I must leave these high subjects of speculation, and des- 
cend to more homely matters : and in commencing my task I meet 
with a great difficulty. I wish to convey some general notion of 
the structure of the Lake District; and it would be an easy task, 
even within the compass of one letter, to enumerate the successive 
great rock formations, to explain their order, and to give a short 
description of them. But in this way my narrative would inevita- 
bly be so dry and repulsive, that no one but a professed geol< _ 
would ever think of reading it, and even such a person would do so 
with very little profit. I wish to address more general readers — any 
intelligent traveller whose senses are open to the beauties of the 
country around him, and who is ready to speculate on such mat- 
ters of interest as it offers to him. I will therefore endeavour 
to avoid technical language as far as I am able, and I do not 
profess to teach, in a few pages, the geology of a most compli- 
cated country (for that would be an idle attempt); but rather to 
open the mind to the nature of the subject, and to point out the 
right way towards a comprehension of some of its general truths. 
The region, I wish in this way to notice, is bounded on the 
West, by the sea-coast extending from the mouth of the Eden 
to the mouth of the Lune — on the North, by the low countrv 
bordering the Eden, and stretching from the Sol way Firth to the 
calcareous hills near Brough and Kirkby Stephen — on the East, 
by the chain of calcareous mountains which ranges from the 
neighbourhood of Settle (through Ingleborough, Whemside, 
Wildboar Fell, &c.) to Stainmoor — and on the South, by More- 
cambe Bay and the lower part of the valley of the Lune. But in 
the following short sketch, many tracts comprehended within 
these boundaries, will be hardly noticed. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 187 

By whatever line a good observer enters the region enclosed 
within the above mentioned limits, he must be struck with the 
great contrast between the hills and mountains that are arranged 
on its outskirts, and those which rise up towards its centre. On 
the outskirts, the mountains have a dull outline, and a continual 
tendency to a tabular form: but those in the interior have a 
much more varied figure, and sometimes present outlines which 
are peaked, jagged, or serrated. This difference arises partly 
from the nature of the component rocks, and partly from their 
position : for the more central mountains are chiefly made up of 
slaty beds, with different degrees of induration, which are highly 
inclined, and sometimes nearly vertical : while the outer hills 
are, with limited exceptions, made up of beds which are slightly 
inclined, and sometimes nearly horizontal. 

Good instances of these facts may be seen at Kendal Fell and 
Whitbarrow Scar. They may be studied in all their details by 
one who ascends the water-courses between Ingleton and the 
caves in ChapeMe-dale — and perhaps still better in the valleys 
between Clapham and Horton. In all these places, the great 
beds of limestone at the base of the calcareous mountains, are 
seen to rest upon the inclined edges of the slates ; and there are 
hundreds of other places on the outskirts of the lake-mountains 
where we may find a similar arrangement of the beds. One 
w r hose attention has been caught by such phenomena, and who has 
learned to draw the right conclusion from them, has taken the first 
firm step in Geology; he has learned that the tabular, calcareous 
hills, which surround the country of the lakes, are of a newer 
date than the slate rocks within it. 

But our observer must not rest contented with this conclusion. 
A study of the slate rocks must soon convince him, that their 
component beds were deposited by the sea, and were once nearly 
horizontal ; — that great disturbing forces afterwards raised them 
up, and sometimes twisted them into complicated curves, till at 
length they permanently settled into their present position — and 
that some of these effects were brought about before the exist- 
ence of the overlying beds of limestone. 

Should this remark lead him to speculate on the interval of 
time that may have elapsed between the periods of the two for- 
mations he has been considering, he may return to some of those 
places where they are seen one resting on the other ; and he will 

s 2 



188 GEOLOGY OF THE 

find that the overlying horizontal beds of limestone are sometimes 
separated from the contorted or inclined beds of slate, by masses 
of conglomerate or cemented shingles, containing innumerable 
abraded fragments and rolled pebbles, derived from the harder 
beds associated with the slates : and from the condition of 
the pebbles he may prove that, at the time the conglomerates 
were formed, many of the ancient slates were as hard and solid 
as they are at the present day. Hence he will further conclude 
— that the slate rocks (which contain many regular beds of sea 
shells and corals) were deposited by the sea during a long lapse 
of ages — that they were elevated and contorted by great internal 
movements — that they passed nearly into the solid state in which 
we find them now — that afterwards, on the outskirts of their ele- 
vation, they were ground down into great irregular masses and 
banks of shingle — and that all this succession of events was com- 
plete before the existence of any part of the overlying calcareous 
chain. Such facts will teach him, that he has been studying 
phenomena which not only indicate succession, but were ela- 
borated during vast intervals of time. 

Again, the previous conclusion may be fortified, by an ex- 
amination of the organic remains which are buried in the slate 
rocks and the overlying limestone. The indications given by 
the organic forms prove that there had been a complete change 
in the animal kingdom, between the epochs of the two formations, 
for they hardly interchange a single species. However incom- 
prehensible this may be, it never could have been brought about, 
compatibly with any known operations of nature, without a great 
change of physical conditions, and a long lapse of ages. 

What has been stated requires for its comprehension no pre- 
vious knowledge of Geology : and any man may make the right 
observations, and draw the right conclusions from them, when he 
is once awake to the interest of those phenomena which rise up 
on every side of him, and seem to court his senses. 

But there are other questions belonging to the rudiments of 
Geology, which I may now touch upon. The world is not as it 
was when it came from its Maker's hands. It has been modified 
by many great revolutions, brought about by an inner mechan- 
ism of which we very imperfectly comprehend the movements ; 
but of which we gain a glimpse by studying their effects : and 
there are many causes still acting on the surface of our globe 



Xake district. 189 

with undiminished power, which are changing, and will continue 
to change it, so long as it shall last. 

No one can carefully examine a mountain chain, without being 
convinced that all its inequalities have been greatly modified ; 
and that there was a time when many of them had no existence: 
that many yawning chasms were once closed, and many hollows 
once filled up by continuous bands of the strata, which still tally, 
even in their minutest subdivisions, on the opposite sides of a 
gorge or valley. The calcareous mountains and valleys skirting 
the lake country, offer the most perfect illustrations of this view: 
and we learn that these, mountains, though unaffected by some 
of the great physical revolutions which elevated the older slates, 
have been lifted out of the sea, rent asunder, and worn down 
into their present forms, by other causes of like kind, but acting 
at a later period. 

I may now mention a theory which is not without its advo- 
cates, and was once a favourite doctrine with a large school of 
geologists. This theory assumes that, many of the valleys and 
great depressions presented by the surface of the earth, have 
been scooped out simply by the erosion (continued during a 
countless succession of past ages) of the waters flowing through 
them. I affirm, in reply — that the erosion of rivers and torrents, 
however indefinitely continued, could not account for the hollows 
and inequalities of any one of our mountain chains — that in in- 
stances, almost without number, w T e find streams making their 
w r ay through clefts and gorges of solid rock, and escaping towards 
the sea on one side of a chain, while nature offers them an easy 
and uninterrupted line of descent on the other side — that the 
configuration of no high country yet examined is in accordance 
with this theory — and that, as a general fact, the streams and 
torrents of our hilly regions have flowed, only during a few 
thousand years, through the channels in which we now behold 
them. 

The lake mountains offer many beautiful illustrations of this 
conclusion. Let an observer examine the whole course of any 
river (such, for example, as the Derwent, the Cocker, the Ea- 
mont, the Lune, or the Kent) from its mouth to the last threads 
of its ramification through the higher elevations of the country. 
He may first mark the transporting powers of a river in the for- 
mation of silt aad marsh lands ; and the way in which the action 

s 3 



190 GEOLOGY OF THE 

of vegetable life, producing great layers of bog earth and turf, 
combines with this transporting power in raising up and changing 
the surface of the country. From the marsh lands spreading out 
on the coast (and perhaps resting on beds of shells like those now 
living in the sea), he may ascend to the mid region of the river's 
course, and mark the fertilizing influence of the waters, and the 
beautiful fringe of country that borders them. He may ascend 
still higher, and see the torrents wearing out deep grooves and 
ploughing furrows in the sides of the mountains ; bearing gravel 
and rounded stones to the plains below, and exposing 
the action of the elements. Lastly, he may mark the mourn! 
rubbish at the foot of all the great precipice-, and the fin 
of solid rock scattered on the side- of the valley by which !.• 
ascending. Impressed by such phenomena, produced dur 
ages by the erosion of the elements, he may perhaps begin to 
lean towards that false theory I have before alluded to. 

But other facts must, in their turn, b I, which 1 

most important bearing upon the question in debate. While 
ascend the ramification- of a river, we frequently nth 

pools of comparatively stagnant water \ and Bometnnei a succes- 
sion of those tarns and lakes which gi tcb brightness 
beauty to the country here described* Now all these expanses 
of nearly stagnant water (for tin- i- the hosfl 
we must now regard them are the reeipienti of the mud 
gravel brought down from hills, 
point, where a mountain -tream enters a tarn or Laki 
undated a delta of greater or less extent, which is 
to tell us during what time the t: 
carrying on their work. It would be idle to 
conclusion from such rongfa indicators of past time : but they all 
conspire in one story, and tell us in plain terms, that 
torrents, in the channels where they now flow, I . push- 
ing silt and gravel and blocks of .-tone before them, only during 
a few thousand years. Had river- been playing their present 
part during an indefinite lapse of ages, not a lake or a tarn could, 
I believe, have existed in Westmorland and Cumberland. The 
same conclusion is forced on the mind by the \ alley- of North 
Wales, and of every hilly country I have yet examined. 

Should anyone ask, how then were these valleys formed ? 
We may reply — by every great disturbing force which bai 



LAKE DISTRICT. 191 

on the crust of the earth since the first deposition of the beds 
which form the mountains. There has been a long succession 
of physical revolutions ; and to the combined effects of them all, 
the older rocks must have been more or less exposed. But during 
the last few thousand years, this part of the world has been almost 
quiescent, and the pencilling of its outline has only been slightly 
touched by the erosion of the waters and the gnawing of the 
elements. Again, we are certain that there have been enormous 
changes in the relative levels of sea and land. Near the top of 
Ingleborough, about 2000 feet above the coast level, are beds 
which were once tranquilly deposited at the bottom of the sea : 
for they are full of well-preserved shells and corals. The highest 
parts of Snowdon, are marked by impressions of sea shells ; and 
similar organic spoils have been found, in some distant chains, 
at five times the height of any English mountain. Such changes 
of level, howsoever brought about, must have produced an in- 
comparably greater transporting power than is shewn in any or- 
dinary action of the elements. Accordingly, in our own coun- 
try, we find, heaped on the flanks of the mountains, choking up 
the valleys, and spreading far and wide along the plains, great 
masses of alluvial drift, entirely unconnected with any erosion of 
the existing rivers. We believe that these masses were formed 
by the sea, during periods when it was changing its level ; and 
we sometimes (at the height of considerably more than 1000 
feet) see proofs of the truth of our hypothesis, by finding sea 
shells of modern species, imbedded in the heaps of incoherent 
rubbish which have been drifted over the surface. 

As far as regards the phenomena just noticed, it is a matter of 
indifference whether we suppose the sea to have come down from 
the tops of the mountains, or the mountains to have been pushed 
up from the bottom of the sea. The latter supposition agrees 
with the known powers of nature, and I know of no other intel- 
ligible cause for a change of oceanic level. Mountains are sim- 
ply the highest points of elevation, marking the places where 
subterranean forces have pushed upwards with greatest intensity, 
or met with least resistance. The first movements would throw 
the horizontal deposits into a dome-shape ; if pushed too far, the 
outer coating of the dome would crack and burst asunder in dif- 
ferent directions, according to the conditions of the moving and 
resisting powers. It might be sometimes in lines diverging from 
a centre, like the higher valleys of Cumberland. These cracks 



192 GEOLOGY OP THE 

and fissures, whether formed under the sea, or in the open air, 
would be the first rudiments of future valleys : and it is obvious 
that at all future times, the abrading power of water would act 
with most intensity upon the lines of fracture and the projecting 
ends of the shattered strata. Combining this remark with the 
fact, that there have been many great oscillations of the land, 
and a long succession of geological periods marked and dat> 
the plainest physical records, we need not wonder that the val- 
leys of Cumberland and Westmorland (tra ej do 
some of the oldest rocks which have obtained a known place in 
the chronicles of the earth) shouM -mena not to be 
explained by any forces, however I inued, which ar 
seen to act on the surface of the country. 

One who is alive to the ml 
touched on, may, when following the 
Lancaster, or ascending by any our 

higher mountains of the district, find excellent th of 

modern river sediment, and m it marine drift. I 

older gravel often contain- blocks of enormous size, bear 
ncss to the greatness of thai pow er n hich mo\ i 
parent seat. 

Hut there are transported bo\* Iders unc 
drifted matter, sometimes many tons in ¥ 
most strange and difficult to 
subject into its detail- would lead me far b 
letter. 1 will, th< 

veiled blocks of Shap granit ict a mi- 

neral structure to be mi-taken, in may 

meet with them. The manner in which thej I 
ed over the surface may be onders : — 

1. Setting out from W 
jxirent rock), they have pal 

that stretches from Orton Scar to Knipe Scar: we r. 
scattered, far and wide, upon the 1 the 

Eden; many of them have been floated to the height of sereral 
hundred feet above that river, the 

great Cross Fell ridge; and in one or t\\ o p 

blocks almost cover the ground, and have been mistaken : 
the decomposing surface o\' a great mass o\ undistu 

l 2. They have been carried towards t 
stranded on the barrier of Stainmoor; but thousan 



LAKE DISTRICT. 193 

some of them several tons in weight, were pushed over that ridge, 
and then scattered over the plains of Yorkshire. Some floated 
over the Hambleton hills and were lodged in the valleys near 
Scarborough : many others were driven over the chalk downs to 
the coast of Holderness. 

3. Bowlders from Wasdale Crag, some of very great size, 
have descended the valley of the Kent to the head of Morecambe 
Bay. Such a movement we may comprehend, allowing an ade- 
quate propelling force of water. But they are not confined to 
the sides of the water-courses. They have been floated to the 
tops of hills, and across great chasms and depressions. They 
are found, in numbers, on the high hills between Kendal and 
Sedbergh, in positions they could not have reached without 
crossing valleys, now at least, several hundred feet in depth. I 
might here notice the bowlders of granite and other hard rock, 
which have been drifted from the western valleys of Cumber- 
land over the plains of Lancashire and Cheshire, and to the very 
tops of the hills between Cheshire and Derbyshire — the gigantic 
masses of crystalline rock (some of them not less than forty or 
fifty feet in diameter) which have descended from the sides of 
Mont Blanc, then crossed the great valley of Switzerland, and 
afterwards been lodged against the sides, or pushed over the tops, 
of the Jura chain — and the innumerable Scandinavian bowlders 
which are scattered over the northern plains of Germany, and 
the steppes of central Russia. But my limits admit of no details, 
and I will rest my conclusions on facts supplied by the north of 
England. 

Here then is a great difficulty. By what power were these 
* 4 erratic blocks" scattered over the north of England, and 
lodged in positions that seem so utterly strange and anomalous? 
We may readily admit any change in the relative level of land 
and water ; and therefore any propelling power of oceanic cur- 
rents consequent upon such a change, and necessary to account 
for the superficial drift that sometimes contains, as before stated, 
recent marine shells at the height of considerably more than a 
thousand feet. But no propelling force of water seems capable 
of driving gigantic bowlders across ravines and valleys, from 
mountain top to mountain top ; yet we want an agent capable of 
doing this, when we endeavour to account for the phenomena 
above described. 



194 GEOLOGY OF THE 

Late observations on the marine shells derived from the upper 
portion of the Crag of Norfolk and Suffolk, and other very recent 
marine deposits on the eastern coast of England, make it pro- 
bable that, during a period not long before the great diluvial 
drift, our climate was much colder than it is at the present day. 
The appearances on the coast of North America have given rise 
to the same conclusion ; and the labours of M. M. Agassiz, Char- 
pentier, and other Swiss naturalists, have, I think, clearly 
proved that, just before the historic time, the glaciers of the 
Alps were far more extended than they are now. If this be 
true, may we not suppose that, at the same period, some of the 
highest valleys of England and Scotland were filled with glaciers, 
and that numberless blocks of stone which had rolled down the 
mountain sides, or been torn off from the neighbouring precipi- 
ces, were then packed up in thick-ribbed ice ? 

No one will, I trust, be so bold as to affirm that an uninter- 
rupted glacier could ever have extended from Shap Fells to the 
coast of Holderness, and borne along the blocks of granite 
through the whole distance, without any help from the floating 
power of water. The supposition involves difficulties tenfold 
greater than are implied in the phenomenon it pretends to account 
for. The glaciers descending through the valleys of the higher 
Alps have an enormous transporting power : but there is no such 
power in a great sheet of ice expanded over a country without 
mountains, and at a nearly dead level. 

The period of refrigeration (if such indeed there were) had 
at length an end ; and we can hardly conceive any general change 
of climate without some great oscillation in the water level. Let 
us then suppose the earth to sink, or the ocean to rise up, so that 
the coast line may reach our higher valleys, and then currents 
of the sea may float away the ancient glaciers with their imbed- 
ded fragments of rock. In this way we can conceive it possible 
that blocks of Shap granite may have been stranded on the side 
of Cross Fell, or floated over the top of Stainmoor and the crest 
of the Hambleton hills ; and dropped, by the gradual melting of 
the icebergs, on the spots where we now find them. Soon after- 
wards, our island may have gained a condition of equilibrium, 
and the land may have risen, or the sea descended, to its present 
level ; in which there appears to have been very little change 
during the period of modern authentic history. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 195 

The previous hypothesis is not new. It was first started, 
forty or fifty years since, to explain the transporting power 
which had brought away millions of bowlders and fragments of 
rock from the Scandinavian chain, and scattered them over the 
plains in the north of Germany, and in Poland and a part of Rus- 
sia. But it seemed to be entangled in the greatest difficulty, 
for how were we to find the ice, which was the most important 
part of the machinery ? Geological phenomena appeared to in- 
dicate a gradual lowering of temperature, from the oldest epoch 
down to the present period : and hence it was inferred, that in 
the epoch just before the historic time, the earth must have been 
warmer than in our days. But no analogy can stand against the 
direct evidence of facts ; and if there has been a period of re- 
frigeration, accompanied by a great oscillation in the level of 
land and water, the glacial theory will then lend itself readily to 
the transport of the " erratic blocks," and it involves no suppo- 
sition which is in antagonism with the known workings of nature. 
For sea and land have changed their relative levels many times ; 
and icebergs, year by year, do bear away great blocks of stone 
from the arctic regions, and drop them in the sea many hundred 
miles from the shores they first started from. But whether the 
glacial theory truly accounts for all the strange movements of 
the Shap granite above described, is a question on which I 
wish not to oifer any decided opinion. 

One thing at least is certain, that, by whatever cause the 
<e erratic blocks" were floated across our valleys and over our 
mountains, their dispersion took place at a comparatively recent 
time. For many of them, though lying bare on the surface, and 
exposed to all the action of our climate, still clink under the 
hammer, and hardly shew more signs of decay than the granite 
of an Egyptian obelisk. I see no reason for supposing that the 
movement of the great bowlders necessarily took place before the 
existence of the human race. On this question there seems no 
direct or conclusive evidence leading to one side or the other. 
We know, indeed, that bowlders, like those above described, are 
often associated with ancient marine drift, containing bones of 
mammals of extinct species (such as Mammoth, Mastodon, Rhi- 
noceros, Hippopotamus, &c, &c.)— and we believe that no hu- 
man bones have been found in the old gravel of Europe, except 
in situations which seem to shew that they were introduced at a 



196 GEOLOGY OF THE 

more recent date. But allowing the negative conclusion, that no 
human bones were entombed, along with the extinct mammals, in 
the old gravel of Europe, it does not thence follow, that the 
human race was in no other part of the world ever coeval with 
the Mastodon and the Mammoth. Whatever may become of 
such a question, the direct evidence remains untouched ; and the 
condition of the travelled bowlders of Shap granite proves that 
they were not floated away from the hills of Westmorland during 
any ancient and indefinite period of time long before the creation 
of our species. 

If we have the clearest proofs of great oscillations of sea-level, 
and have a right to make use of them w r hile we seek to explain 
some of the latest phenomena of Geology, may we not reason- 
ably suppose that within the period of human history, similar 
oscillations have taken place in those parts of Asia which were 
the cradle of our race, and may have produced that destruction 
among the early families of men, which is described in our sacred 
books, and of which so many traditions have been brought down 
to us through all the streams of authentic history ?* 

* There is nothing new in this speculation, which must have offered 
itself, from time to time, to every geologist who wished to connect the 
past with the present. Bearing upon this subject, some most striking 
facts are brought to light in a great work on the structure of the Cau- 
casus, by M. Dubois de Montpereux. I knew nothing of this work 
when the above letter was first printed, and I can now only refer the 
reader to a short but excellent analysis of it by Mr. Murchison in his 
" Anniversary Address to the Geological Society of London." (Feb. 
1843.) I may add, that this letter (in the form in which it is now printed) 
was in the hands of the publisher before Mr. Hopkins had read a 
paper on the structure of the Cumbrian Mountains. (See the " Anni- 
versary Address " just quoted, and the " Proceedings of the Geological 
Society of London," for 1842.) With many of his views I agree : with 
some I differ : but all the opinions of one who combines the habits of 
patient observation with the resources of exact science, demand our 
consideration and respect. During the present spring (1843), he has 
made some new experiments on the movements of ice, which have con- 
siderably modified his former views ; and seem to prove, that glaciers 
may act as a transporting power on planes of very small inclination. 
Had the unexpected result of these experiments been known when the 
above letter was first published, I should have modified one or two 
sentences — especially the one in which it is stated, — "that there is no 
such transporting power in a great sheet of ice expanded over a 
country without mountains, and at a nearly dead level." (Supra p. 194.) 



LAKE DISTRICT. 197 

Whatever may become of this question, and of some others, 
which the limits of this letter barely permit me to touch upon, 
this I will affirm, that among the records of creation discovered 
to us by the monuments of the earth's crust, we find no chapter 
more difficult than that which links the past with the present, 
and leads us up to the historic period, and the beginning of the 
works of man. Among the older records, we find chapter after 
chapter of which we can read the characters, and make out their 
meaning: and as we approach the period of man's creation, our 
book becomes more clear, and nature seems to speak to us in 
language so like our own, that we easily comprehend it. But 
just as we begin to enter on the history of physical changes 
going on before our eyes, and in which we ourselves bear a part, 
our chronicle seems to fail us — a leaf has been torn out from 
nature's record, and the succession of events is almost hidden 
from our eyes. The strange hypotheses even sober and good 
observers have been driven to invent, in their endeavours to ex- 
plain phenomena, which, in the language of geology, happened 
as yesterday, are but proofs of the difficulty and obscurity of 
that chapter in the natural history of the earth, which, being 
the nearest to that describing changes of our own days, one 
might have expected to have been the most plain and legible. 

With this remark I conclude my long letter. In my next I 
hope to notice the successive deposits of the lake mountains, and 
the way in which they are related to one another. 



A. SEDGWICK. 



Cambridge, May 23, 1842. 



LETTER II. 



My dear Sir, — In my preceding letter I shortly noticed the 
external features of the Lake district, the structure of its 
valleys, the erosion of its surface by the daily action of the ele- 
ments, the accumulations of alluvial silt and gravel within its 
area, the heaps of diluvial drift, and the great bowlders which 



]9B GEOLOGY OF THE 

have travelled from the higher mountains far and wide over the 
North of England. My present object is to convey some notion 
of the structure of the great mountain masses, and to shew how 
the several parts are fitted one to another. This can only be 
done after great labour. The clefts where the rocks are laid bare 
by the sea, the cliffs and fissures in the hills and valleys, the deep 
grooves through which the waters flow, — all must be in turn ex- 
amined ; and out of much seeming confusion, order will at length 
appear. We must in imagination sweep off the drifted matter 
that clogs the surface of the ground ; we must suppose all the 
covering of moss and heath and wood to be torn away from the 
sides of the mountains, and the green mantle that lies near their 
feet to be lifted up ; we may then see the muscular integuments, 
and sinews, and bones of our mother Earth, and so judge of 
the part played by each of them during those old convulsive 
movements whereby her limbs were contorted and drawn up into 
their present posture. But all these preliminary labours must 
here be taken for granted, and I must content myself with giving, 
in the best way I can, a bare outline of the results to which ob- 
servers have in this way come. 

The rock formations in the mountain tracts between the basins 
of the Eden and the Lune, (as defined in my former letter,) are 
divided into the following natural groups : — 

1. New red sandstone. 

2. Magnesian limestone and conglomerate. 

3. The Carboniferous series, including the carboniferous or 
mountain limestone. 

4. Old red sandstone. 

5. Upper slates of Westmorland, Low Furness, and a part of 
Yorkshire, based on the limestone of Coniston Water Head. 

6. A great deposit of green slate and porphyry, forming some 
of the highest mountains of Furness Fells, Westmorland, and 
Cumberland. 

7. Skiddaw slate, passing in the heart of Skiddaw forest, into 
a complicated group of crystalline or 'metamorphic' slates. 

As all the preceding groups were deposited under the sea, the 
highest (No. 1.) must be of the newest, and the lowest (No, 7.) 
of the oldest date. From beneath them all rise great masses 
of granite and other kinds of crystalline unbedded rock (No. 8.) 
pushed by the force of subterranean fires into the positions 



LAKE DISTRICT. 199 

where we now find them. Bat the date of their eruption cannot 
be made out from their inner structure; and we can only define 
the epochs of their appearance by the effects they have produced 
on the more regular aqueous deposits through which they have 
forced their way. 

The wood-cut appended to these letters may convey some 
notion of the relative positions of the several great deposits. 
The left side of the section represents a descending series from 
the calcareous mountains of Westmorland and Yorkshire to the 
granite in the centre of Skiddaw Forest (No. 8) ; but some great 
derangements of the groups, produced by lines of fault, are not 
delineated, as they would make the section too complicated for a 
first general view. The right side of the section (commencing 
with No. 8) represents an ascending series from Skiddaw Forest 
to Cross Fell. No attempt is however made to give with any 
exactness the relative magnitudes of the successive groups ; nor 
would it be possible, on such a scale, to delineate the contortions 
of the beds. 

In the above order I now proceed to notice the successive 
formations. 

NEW RED SANDSTONE.* 

This is the newest formation of the country under notice; for 
wherever it is associated with other deposits it is always found to 
rest upon them. It fills all the lower part of the basin of the 
Eden, from .the neighbourhood of Brough to the shores of the 
Solway Firth. At Maryport it is cut off by the coal measures ; 
but it re-appears at St. Bees' Head-, and strikes along the coast 
to the estuary of the Duddon, and the western promontories of 
Low Furness; and it is seen in a few spots on the shores of 
Moreeambe Bay. In some parts of this long coast range it 
seems to have been entirely washed away, and in other places it 
is covered by enormous heaps of diluvial drift, the colour of 
which is derived from the abraded fragments of red sandstone. 

If we cross to the other side of Moreeambe Bay, we meet 
with the same great formation on the coast of Lancashire ; and 
it may then be traced, through the plains of Cheshire, to the 

* No. 1, in the wood cut. 
T 2 



200 GEOLOGY OF THE 

great red central plain stretching across our island from the 
mouth of the Tees to the mouth of the Severn. 

The upper part of the formation supports a very fertile soil, 
and contains much red gypseous marl, and sometimes very large 
deposits of rock salt: but of this part we find few, if any, traces 
on the flanks of the Cumbrian mountains. The lower part is 
sometimes covered with an arid and sterile soil, and is chiefly made 
up of a strong thickly-bedded red sandstone, in various degrees 
of induration. In this form it is seen in several parts of the 
basin of the Eden: but it is valuable as a building stone, and was 
largely used in the churches and monastic monuments of the 
middle ages. 

The rock here described may be seen, in all its varieties, in 
the quarries near Carlisle, in the ravines below Furness Abbey, 
and on the banks of the Calder. At St. Bees' Head it is beau- 
tifully exposed to view, and rests on some beds of gypseous marl 
or 'plaster rock' (not to be confounded with the upper gypseous 
and saliferous marls above noticed), which were formerly much 
worked. From beneath the gypseous marls rise the magnesian 
limestone and conglomerate ; and these are in their turn under- 
laid by a lower red sandstone, forming a connecting link between 
the coal series and the deposits I am here enumerating. 

The formation seldom appears at a high level. Were Eng- 
land to descend a few hundred feet, all the great central plain 
above noticed, would be under the sea ; and the waters of the 
Solway Firth would extend to the foot of Stainmoor, and cover 
nearly all the space now marked, in our geological maps, by the 
colour of the new red sandstone. From this fact we may infer, 
that the cluster of the Lake mountains and the chain of Cross 
Fell had been, at least partially, elevated before the period of 
the new red sandstone. The position of its beds seems to justify 
this conclusion ; for they rest upon the outskirts of the carbonif- 
erous rocks in their long range from Kirkby Stephen to Mary- 
port; and, after being expanded on both sides of the Eden, 
they abut against the great terrace presented by the ridge of 
Cross Fell. (See wood-cut.) A great cleft or • fault ' (sometimes 
called the 'Pennine fault') ranges from the foot of Stainmoor 
along the base of this terrace, producing such an enormous 
'upcast' towards the N. E., that the carboniferous beds, which 
on one side of the ' fault ' are lifted to the height of nearly 3000 



LAKE DISTRICT. 201 

feet, are on the other side of it deeply buried underneath the 
new red sandstone and the alluvion of the Eden. But I must 
quit a subject requiring for its discussion a knowledge of details 
I have no right to presume the readers of this letter to be ac- 
quainted with. 

Should any one enquire — what was the interval of time be- 
tween the period of the new red sandstone and of the diluvial 
rubbish described in the former letter ? we may reply, that Cum- 
berland gives us no materials for determining such a question. 
It only teaches us, that while the drifted matter was forming, the 
red sandstone was as solid as we now find it in the quarries. 
This fact, of itself, implies a great interval of time between the 
two deposits ; and other parts of England leave us in no doubt 
as to the right answer to the previous question. 

The new red sandstone is, in many parts of England, overlaid 
by a series of secondary formations beginning with the lias and 
ending with the chalk, — each requiring a period of many ages 
for its elaboration. They contain the remains of many succes- 
sive creations of organic beings, fitted to perform all the func- 
tions of life ; but under conditions differing from those of the 
world in which we now live. Among their strata are the re- 
mains of gigantic reptiles, — lines of undisturbed coral reefs, — 
beds innumerable of sea shells which have lived and died on the 
spots where we now find them, — and the petrified stumps of trees 
in the very soil in which they once grew. Phenomena of this 
kind are repeated again and again. These facts, however strik- 
ing in themselves, become incomparably more so when studied 
in combination : and they demonstrate, that successive physical 
epochs were distinguished by successive changes in the forms of 
animal and vegetable life, — each change brought about by no 
natural transmutation of species, nor by any material law we can 
comprehend, but by an act of Creative Power. However hard 
it may be for the mind to grasp a succession of facts like these, 
assuredly long periods of time are implied in their very existence. 

Nor do we end here. The chalk and its imbedded flints were 
all solid, and its organic remains were all petrified before the 
London clay and the other regular * tertiary ' beds were deposited 
upon it. The London clay swarms with the traces of organic 
life, which are utterly unlike the fossils of the chalk, and almost 
as widely separated from the living Fauna of our island. We 

t 3 



202 GEOLOGY OF THE 

cannot take one step in Geology without drawing upon the 
fathomless stores of by-gone time. Man, and all his fellow - 
beings in the kingdom of animated nature, are creatures but of 
yesterday : and in no sense (except as the offspring of the same 
Creating and Controlling Mind) are they the descendents or re- 
lations of those beings which are found entombed among the 
monuments of the ancient world. 

But to what does all this tend? It contains a reply to the 
question before started. Portions of the diluvial drift, and, I 
believe, all the * erratic bowlders,' have passed over the country 
since the period of the chalk and of the newest * tertiary' rocks 
on the eastern coasts of England. Thousands of ages must 
therefore have elapsed between the time of their journey and 
the epoch of the new red sandstone. 

There remains another question. If the new red sandstone 
be of such vast antiquity, what were the forms and conditions of 
animal and vegetable life coeval with it ? The following sum- 
mary contains the only reply permitted by the limits of this letter. 

1 , The remains of reptiles appear among the beds of the new- 
red sandstone under forms so strange and anomalous, that anato- 
mists have only found a place for them by interpolating new- 
chapters in nature's history, and separating the class of reptiles 
into new orders and genera. It contains a lizard with jaws like 
the beak of a bird of prey ; hence the name Rhynchosaurus. In 
the upper beds of the same formation are impressions of large 
feet resembling the marks of a human hand ; hence the name 
Chirotherium, or hand-beast. These monsters are now proved 
to be gigantic batrachians (animals of the same order with frogs 
and toads), and they had jaws armed with formidable teeth re- 
sembling those of the crocodile.* 

2. The vegetable fossils of the new red sandstone belong to 
a peculiar Flora. They do not interchange species either with 
the vegetable fossils of the carboniferous epoch, or w ith those of 
the lias and oolites : still less do they resemble the vegetables of 
the tertiary period, or the present Flora of Europe. 

* See Professor Ow r en's admirable " Report on Fossil Reptiles/* — 
Proceedings of British Association, 1840 and 1841. I forbear to notice 
in this place the Ornithichnites of Professor Hitchcock (impressions of 
the feet of gigantic birds &c.) because the exact age of the rocks of 
red sandstone in w T hich they occur is perhaps not yet determined. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 203 

We cannot believe that these successive forms of animated 
nature were created and destroyed by the mere impulses of a 
capricious will : but we do believe that they were called into 
being, and wisely adapted to the successive conditions of our 
planet, during its progress from a chaotic state till it reached the 
perfection in which we now find it. 

Of the physical changes our planet has undergone, we may 
gain, at least, a glimmering of knowledge, from a study of its 
physical records. "We may suppose, on analogy, fortified by 
considerations of a more direct and higher kind, that it was once 
expanded through space in the form of a luminous vapour. We 
believe on good evidence, that it was once in a fluid state. The 
crystalline condition of its inner parts implies a fluidity derived 
from heat : and if this conclusion be true, the crust of the earth 
must have passed through many stages of higher temperature 
before it descended to the mean temperature of the present day. 
The same conclusion is fortified by the fossils of the older rocks, 
which indicate a climate warmer than that of the modern period. 

Again, enormous masses of carbon are now fixed in the upper 
parts of the earth's crust, both in chemical combination with 
other elements, and more simply and tangibly in great beds of 
coal and other carbonaceous deposits. Much of this fixed and 
solid carbon may once have floated round the earth as one of the 
constituents of its atmosphere. A dense atmosphere highly 
charged with carbonic acid may have been well fitted to the 
rank vegetation of the carboniferous epoch : such an atmosphere 
may also have been adapted to the respiration of the cold-blooded 
monsters of the secondary rocks ; but utterly unfit for tribes of 
warm-blooded mammals, created at a later period, and now 
flourishing on the surface of the earth. 

However limited may be our knowledge of the successive 
physical changes of our planet, this at least is certain, that the 
Author of Nature has, during all periods, formed organic beings 
on the same great plan : so that we can reason from the organs 
to the functions of a cold-blooded monster of the old world, with 
as much certainty as an anatomist can reason on the adaptation of 
a skeleton to the habits and wants of a living species. 

No sober geologist now dares to give an ideal history of the 
revolutions of the earth. He may speculate indeed, on points 
respecting which he is at present supplied with very imperfect 



204 GEOLOGY OF THE 

evidence : but such speculations he considers of little moment. 
He studies phenomena, groups them together, contemplates them 
in all their bearings, and so attempts to rise from phenomena 
to laws. Should he fail in his first attempts ; still all his steps 
are in the right direction, and in the end will lead him towards 
some higher truth.* 

MAGNESIAN LIMESTONE AND CONGLOMERATE — LOWER DIVISION 
OF THE NEW RED SANDSTONE. f 

Magnesian limestone and conglomerate — I have before stated 
that the magnesian limestone rises from beneath the red marl 
and sandstone of St. Bees' Head. It is of considerable thick- 
ness, and is well exposed in quarries near the roads leading 
from Whitehaven to St. Bees'. To the south of the valley of 
St. Bees' it degenerates into a thin magnesian conglomerate 
at the base of the red sandstone, and afterwards, for many miles 
further south, the limestone disappears altogether : but it re- 
appears in its characteristic form near the village of Stank, in 
Low Furness. It is generally of a yellowish brown colour, and 
of a rather earthy structure, and is often full of cells lined with 
pure carbonate of lime. In the part of England here described, 
I believe, it contains no organic remains, but many such remains 

* In France and Germany the series of rocks above noticed admits 
of a triple division (called " Trias," or the " Triassic system ") in the 
following ascending order. 

1. Gres bigare, or Bunter Sandstein. The equivalent of the new red 
sandstone of St. Bees' Head and the central plains of England. 

2. Muschelkalk. A formation altogether wanting in England. Its 
fossils are very numerous, and form an entirely distinct group : but in 
their general types they resemble the fossils of the oolitic series more 
nearly than those of the magnesian limestone or carboniferous rocks. 

5. Marnes irisees, or Keuper. They underlie, and pass into, the Lias, 
without any apparent break or interruption. The same is true of the 
gypseous and saliferous red marls in many parts of England: from 
which it follows, that a portion of these marls must represent the 
Marnes irisees or Keuper. (See Geol: Trans: Lond: Vol. iii. p. 121. 
Second Series.) This conclusion was confirmed by Mr. Strickland and 
Mr. Murchison, who discovered and described some interesting organic 
remains from the Keuper of Warwickshire. (Geol : Trans : Vol v. p. 331 . 
Second Series.) 

f No. 2, in the wood cut. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 205 

are found in the same rock in its range through Yorkshire and 
Durham. 

At Barrow -mouth, on the north side of St. Bees' Head, the 
magnesian limestone is seen to rest upon, and to pass into, a 
conglomerate, or « pudding stone.' Conglomerates of the 
same structure, and undoubtedly of the same age, are scattered 
about the flanks of the hills to the north-east of Whitehaven, 
(for example, near Gillgaron and Arlecdon, in the lower part 
of Keskill Beck, near Weddicar Hall, &c), and are generally 
lodged in the water-worn hollows and inequalities of the lower 
red sandstone on which they rest. In some places, however, 
they rest on the edge of the carboniferous beds without the in- 
tervention of any red sandstone. 

The conglomerates at Barrow-mouth, under St. Bees' Head, 
are of insignificant thickness ; but at Stenkreth Bridge, near 
Kirkby Stephen, they are seen in far greater force ; and by their 
unequal resistance to the waters of the Eden have given rise to 
some very striking scenery. They contain both angular and 
w r ater-worn fragments of the mountain limestone and coal mea- 
sures : and we thence infer, that they were not deposited till the 
carboniferous series had passed into a solid form. It is impossible 
to study the evidence for this conclusion without been driven to 
the belief, that a long cycle of ages must have rolled away be- 
tween the period of the limestone, and that of the conglomer- 
ates which rest upon its edges and are partly made up of its 
ruins. There are instances without number, in other parts of 
England, in which the whole new red sandstone series is uncon- 
formable to the lower rocks on which it rests. It often passes over 
their inclined edges, like a lintel over the side-posts of a door ; 
and in such cases we have proof positive, that the lower beds 
had become solid and were set on edge before the red sandstone 
was laid upon them. 

Lower red sandstone. From beneath the magnesian limestone 
and conglomerate rises a lower red sandstone, finely exposed in 
the cliffs on both sides of Whitehaven, and forming a connecting 
link between the coal series and the deposits above described. 
In some places it seems to pass by insensible gradations into the 
true coal measures, and has the mineral structure of a common 
grey carboniferous sandstone. More frequently, it is of a red 
tint, or is streaked and variegated with i*ed ; and there are many 



206 GEOLOGY OP THE 

quarries where it cannot be distinguished from the red sandstone 
of St. Bees' Head. Again, though it may in some places pass 
into the coal measures, as a more general rule, it is placed in a 
discordant position on their inclined edges. Such appears to be 
its more common position in the neighbourhood of Whitehaven ; 
and the same rule holds in the range of the deposits through 
Yorkshire and Durham.* 

We may therefore conclude that, in the North of England, the 
lower red sandstone is, by its structure and position, more nearly 
related to the formations above it, than to those below it. 

The fossils of the magnesian limestone and the lower red sand- 
stone, point to an opposite conclusion, and will perhaps hereafter 
induce geologists to separate the formations entirely from the new 
red sandstone (of St. Bees' Head, &c.) and to consider them as 
the newest members of the 'palaeozoic' or 'transition' class; 
of which the carboniferous rocks form an integral part. The 
following facts are all that the limits of this letter permit me to 
bring forward. 

1. In the neighbourhood of Bristol, the magnesian conglom- 
erates contain, though rarely, the remains of reptiles — among 
them the Palceosaurus (old lizard) is of a new genus, approach- 
ing, in the structure of its teeth, to the hard-backed crocodiles,' 
but in its general bony structure coming more nearly to the scaly 
lizards. 

2. The corals, shells, and fish of the magnesian limestone, 
with a few exceptions, differ in species from the fossils of the ■ 
carboniferous series. At the same time there are many generic 
forms in this limestone identical with those of the older rocks, 
but unlike any which appear between the lias and the chalk, or 
in any newer deposits ; so that the general zoological type of 
the magnesian limestone very nearly approaches that of the car- 
boniferous. 

3. Vegetable fossils are abundant in the lower red sandstone, 

* In Warwickshire and Shropshire, the lowest red sandstone is 
generally conformable to the coal measures : but in a part of the former 
county, the upper red sandstone and saliferous marls are unconform- 
able to the lower. Traces of this discordancy of position may be found 
in Cumberland; for the conglomerates at the base of the new red 
sandstone (St. Bees' Head, &c.) sometimes rest, as above stated, on an 
uneven water-worn surface of the lower red sandstone. 



LAKE DISTRICT. JliJ 

and cannot, as a group, be distinguished from those of the carbo- 
niferous epoch. 

It is obvious that these facts, as far as they go, support the 
conclusion to which I have pointed.* 

CARBONIFEROUS SERIES. f 

The rocks included under this name, form an irregular girdle 
almost surrounding the higher lake mountains. To describe 
them in detail would require a large volume ; and I must con- 
tent myself with little more than a bare enumeration of the four 
groups into which they may be conveniently divided. 

First group, or Upper Coal-measures. — This group extends 
along the coast from the north side of St. Bees' Head to Mary- 
port ; and at both places, as before stated, it is covered by the 
new red sandstone. From the coast it may be followed to the 
interior, where it bends round the north side of the higher 

* It has been contended that the existence of fossil reptiles in the 
magnesian limestone separates it from the carboniferous epoch, and 
brings it more nearly into the class of the " Trias " and the oolites. 
But the force of this objection has been taken away by Mr. Lyell, who 
has recently shewn that reptiles have, in North America, left their 
traces among rocks containing numerous mountain limestone fossils, 
Mr. Murchison also states that, in the "Permian system" (a great 
deposit in Russia, of the age of the magnesian limestone) there is a 
Flora distinct from that of the carboniferous period. Facts like these 
are of great importance in questions of classification ; but I can hardly 
attend to them without touching on subjects beyond the aim of these 
letters. 

In England, between the marine deposits of the magnesian and car- 
boniferous limestone, there is an interruption caused by the interpo- 
lation of the upper coal series, which is not marine. But during the 
long epoch of the upper coal measures, marine deposits, to which we 
have nothing analogous in England, must have been formed in other 
parts of the world. In Russia, all the deposits are marine, from the 
base of the carboniferous, to the higher-beds of the " Permian " system. 
Does it not therefore follow that there may be marine deposits in 
Russia intermediate between the magnesian and carboniferous lime- 
stones of this country ? The answer to this question may perhaps tend 
to reconcile the conflicting opinions lately given by Mr. Lyell and Mr. 
Murchison respecting the exact age of a large class of rocks in North 
America. 

f No. 3, in the wood cut. 



208 GEOLOGY OF THE 

mountains, gradually diminishing in breadth, and at length end- 
ing abruptly in the neighbourhood of Rosley Hill. It contains 
many thin worthless bands of coal ; but there are eight or ten 
different beds in it, which have been profitably worked. The 
two beds, from which coal has been so long extracted near White- 
haven and Workington (one of them, the main band, sometimes 
nine or ten feet thick) , are in the upper part of the group ; the 
four or five beds formerly worked in the Harrington field, are in 
the lower part of it ; and its aggregate thickness is perhaps not 
less than 1,000 feet. 

The whole deposit once consisted of alternations of sand and 
finely laminated mud ; with countless fragments of drifted vege- 
tables — sometimes single, sometimes matted together in thick 
and widely extended beds. Occasionally the plants are upright 
in posture, and so entire that they seem not to have been drifted 
from the spots on which they grew : in such cases the coal-beds 
become the indications of forests and bogs submerged in by-gone 
ages, during the changes of level between land and water. In 
course of time the drifted sand-beds became sandstone ; — the 
mud became slaty clay or shale ; — the vegetable fossils were 
bituminized ; — and the whole formation passed into the condition 
in which we now see it. 

In the upper part of this group (as exhibited in different parts 
of the North of England) there are no marine remains ; but it con- 
tains some beds of shells belonging to fresh-water genera. All 
the plants are of extinct species ; many of them of extinct 
genera ; and they are of forms which indicate a high tropical 
temperature. Among them are coniferous trees, like those in 
some of the South-sea Islands ; gigantic reeds ; tree-ferns ; enor- 
mous creeping plants with sharp pinnated leaves (Stigmaria) 
trees with fluted stems ; and many other strange but beautiful 
forms of vegetable life, seemingly pushed to rankness and luxu- 
riance by great heat and moisture. 

It is in vain to speculate on the exact duration of the carbon- 
iferous epoch: but we are sure that it lasted through a vast 
period of time. 

One who has any feeling for the wonders of the old world, 
and any interest in the powers of human skill, will do well to 
visit the Whitehaven coal-field. The enormous under-ground 
excavations — the costly machinery — a living world many hun- 



LAKE DISTRICT. 209 

dred feet beneath the surface of the earth— works on a gigantic 
scale extending far under the bottom of the sea— the streams of 
gas perpetually rising from the coal beds, which thus give back 
to the atmosphere a part of the very elements they once drank 
up from it— the great breaks and contortions of the solid strata 
— the prodigious influence the mineral treasures are now exerting 
upon the habits of the whole civilized world — these assuredly, in 
whatever light we regard them, physically or morally, are 
topics of no vulgar interest. But inviting as the subject is, I 
must here leave it. 

Second Group, or Millstone Grit — This group is of compli- 
cated structure, being made up of coarse sandstone (occasionally 
used for millstones), siliceous flagstone, shale, and two or three 
thin bands of coal. On the north side of the lake mountains it 
is seen only in a very degenerate form : but in the calcareous 
chain on the south-eastern side, it is finely exposed to view along 
the tops of the highest mountains ; and is not less than six or 
seven hundred feet thick. There is not, however, any single 
mountain in which this whole series is well exhibited. Of the 
coarser grits, deserving the name of millstone, there are three 
great beds ; the lowest of which forms the tabular rock, resting, 
like a huge coping stone, on the top of Ingleborough. The coal 
beds in this group are generally very poor, and only worked by 
horizontal drifts from the sides of the mountains ; but a little 
above Hawes they increase in thickness, and are worked to con- 
siderable profit, by vertical shafts. 

Few shells have been found in this subdivision of the carbon- 
iferous series : but as it rests upon marine deposits, and in some 
parts of Yorkshire is surmounted by beds with marine shells, we 
may conclude that it is of marine rather than of fresh-water origin ; 
in which case we must consider the coal beds as formed by vege- 
table matter drifted from the land into a shallow sea or estuary. 

Third Group, or Shale Limestone — This group forms the up- 
per part of the calcareous zone on the north side of the Cumbrian 
mountains. There, however,, it never rises to a high level, and 
it is so much covered up with drifted matter, that its subdivisions 
cannot be easily followed. But in the brows of the higher hills 
between Penyghent and Stainmoor it is seen in great perfection, 
and sometimes reaches the thickness of 1,000 or 1,200 feet. To 
give one example; all the great precipices under the crown 



210 GEOLOGY OF THE 

of Ingleborough, are made up of the rocks of this complicated 
group, in which are five beds of limestone, alternating with shale, 
sandstone, and a few thin bands of coal. The beautiful fossil 
marble, so much used in the north of England, is derived from 
the two highest calcareous beds of this group ; the black mar- 
ble is obtained exclusively from the lowest. Several of the coal 
bands, especially one under the highest (or ■ upper scar") lime- 
stone, have been extensively worked, both by horizontal drifts 
and by shafts. All the limestone beds are full of marine shells 
and corals : from which we may conclude, that the coal bands 
alternating with them, were formed of vegetable matter which 
had drifted into the sea. 

Fourth and lowest Group, or Great Scar Limestone, — This 
beautiful rock is almost entirely made up of animal remains, es- 
pecially shells and corals ; and must once have stretched far and 
wide among shores and shoals which, though long obliterated 
from the face of the earth, were the first rudiments of the British 
Isles. During this period the scar limestone formed a fringing 
coral reef round the cluster of the lake mountains. Even now 
it may be traced uninterruptedly through the greater part of 
their circumference ; and on the west coast between Egremont 
and Duddon-mouth, where it has almost disappeared, there are 
three small patches of limestone seeming to indicate its former 
continuity on that side of Cumberland. 

On the southern limits of the country here described, this great 
reef was in ancient times severed by faults and breaks, which 
were gradually opened out into wide valleys : but it requires 
little effort of imagination to conceive that all the great patches 
of limestone, now marked in this part of our geological maps, 
were once united. On the eastern limit of the country under 
notice, the limestone forms an almost pure and uninterrupted 
calcareous mass, five or six hundred feet in thickness. In the 
northern part of the zone it degenerates in thickness, and is in- 
terrupted by alternating beds of sandstone. 

It must, during the progress of its formation, have been com- 
paratively solid : and hence, during subsequent periods of its 
disruption and elevation, it was incomparably less contorted than 
the older slate rocks, which at one time were soft and pliable. 
To its internal structure, and to all the disturbing forces that 
have since acted upon it, we are to ascribe its extraordinary 



LAKE DISTRICT. 



211 



features— its mural precipices, its caverns, its reciprocating 
springs, and its deep clefts and gorges. No formation in our 
island shows features of more play and beauty. The fair bright 
islands of Killarney— the clefts of Cheddar, and St. Vincent's 
rocks— the delicious valleys of the Wye and the High Peak— 
(and to come nearer the lake country) the sublime gorge of Gor- 
dale— the fine grey precipices at the foot of Ingleborough— the 
caverns of Chapel-le-dale and Clapham— the rocks of Kirkby 
Lonsdale bridge—and the great white terrace of Whitbarrow— 
all belong to the features of this limestone. 

The organic remains of this rock are in infinite abundance, 
and are described at great length by many authors, especially by 
Mr. Phillips.* In this place it is only necessary to state that, 
considered as a group, they differ specifically from the fossils both 
of the older and newer formations. The newer deposits, com- 
mencing with the new red sandstone, contain, as above mentioned, 
numberless reptiles, many of which were of gigantic size, and 
were the tyrants and scavengers of the ancient deep. In the 
carboniferous series no reptiles have yet been found : their place 
is supplied by animals of a different class, but of kindred habits 
— fierce * sauroid fish ' — creatures breathing by the help of gills, 
and having the skeletons offish ; but with jaws armed with great 
conical teeth like those of large crocodiles or lizards. 

Though the limestone is, like a great potsherd, broken into 
many fragments, and is now elevated to the tops of mountains ; 
yet its beds, excepting on the lines of certain great faults, are 
nearly horizontal in its whole southern and eastern range. In 
its northern range it is considerably more tilted. The horizontal 
limestone (as before noticed) is seen to rest on the inclined slate 
rocks in the valleys between Horton and Clapham, without the 
intervention of a conglomerate. But in such cases, the jagged 
edges of the slates have been worn off by the continued erosion of 
water, and rubbed down almost to a smooth horizontal surface : a 
fact which shews, that there must have been a long interval of 
time between the elevation of the slates and the commencement of 
the superincumbent coral reef. At Thornton Force, near Ingle- 
ton (a place on every account deserving a visit), the inclined slates 
are separated from the horizontal limestone by a thin band of con- 

* Geology of Yorkshire, Vol. 2. 
u 2 



212 GEOLOGY OF THE 

glomerate ; and thus we arrive at the same conclusion by inde- 
pendent evidence. 

In terminating this notice of the carboniferous series, I may re- 
mark, that very thin bands of impure coal are occasionally found 
in the great scar limestone — that all its darker beds derive their 
colour from bituminous matter — and that, in a few places within 
the district, carbonaceous shales appear near its base, and have 
given rise to unprofitable coal works. But the same dark shales 
in the range of the series from Stainmoor through Cross Fell to- 
wards Scotland, become greatly expanded, and alternate with 
sandstone; and at length, in the basin of the Tweed, give rise 
to a profitable coal-field far below the geological level of any one 
which is worked in the more southern parts of our island. 



OLD RED SANDSTONE, &C* 

This deposit is made up of marl, sandstone, and coarse con- 
glomerate ; marking a period of great attrition produced by the 
beating of the sea upon the edges of the old contorted slates, 
from their first elevation to the time when the reefs of limestone 
began to form about them. The older rocks were solid, and had 
been scooped into deep valleys before the existence of the greater 
part of the conglomerates. This conclusion is proved by the 
condition of the imbedded pebbles ; and by the fact, that in the 
upper part of the valley of the Rother, above Sedbergh, enor- 
mous masses of the old red conglomerates almost fill up an ancient 
valley of the slate rocks. It is implied also, though on less im- 
pressive evidence, from the position of the conglomerates in the 
upper parts of the basin of the Kent. The formation is inter- 
rupted and irregular; having to all appearance been ground 
down, by the action of the sea upon the older strata, into great 
banks of coarse shingles, but never spread out into long and con- 
tinuous beds. This at least is its present appearance between 
the terrace of the limestone and the slates. 

Near Or ton, a deposit of a red, and sometimes a grey sand- 
stone, resting upon a conglomerate, seems to form an under 
terrace to the limestone, but its relations are not clear. In its 
farther range to the N. W. the formation is almost always seen 

* No. 4, in the wood cut. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 213 

as a conglomerate ; and in that state is shewn in three or four 
places between Shap Fells and the river Lowther ; but always 
under the limestone terrace or near its base. Its largest devel- 
opment is in the very coarse conglomerates near the foot of 
Ullswater, where it rises into a succession of round-topped hills 
several hundred feet high, and is of great thickness : but towards 
the N. W. it suddenly dies away. In the neighbourhood of 
Hesket Newmarket, it however breaks out again in three or four 
insignificant patches ; after which it is not again seen under the 
long range of the carboniferous rocks towards the west coast of 
Cumberland. 

There is perhaps no true passage between the old red sand- 
stone, above described, and the overlying beds of limestone : it 
is not, however, probable that any long lapse of time intervened 
between one formation and the other. As soon as the rude me- 
chanical action that produced the conglomerates had ceased, the 
shell beds and coral reefs began to skirt the ancient shores. 

In Herefordshire and some of the neighbouring counties, the 
old red sandstone exhibits a complete and uninterrupted sequence 
of deposits from the slate rocks to the carboniferous limestone, 
and is of enormous thickness. It has long been divided into three 
groups — the lowest characterized by red flagstone (or s tilestone') 
the middle group by bands of concretionary limestone (or ' corn- 
stone') the highest by red sandstone and conglomerate. As a 

general rule, the old red sandstone of the North of England re- 
presents only'the highest of these three groups. While the two 
lower groups were forming in Herefordshire, the active powers 
of nature were employed, among the Cumbrian mountains, in 
elevating and contorting the ancient rocks, and not in laying 
down new deposits. To this remark there seems to be an almost 
solitary exception on the banks of the Lune, a little above Kirkby 
Lonsdale : for there we meet with some beds of red flagstone, 
of the age of the lower beds of * tilestone,' and full of fossils, 
surmounted by bands of concretionary limestone, and by red 
marls and conglomerates. But even there the sequence is not 
complete and uninterrupted : for the red flagstones were in a 
solid state, and were tilted up, before the marls and conglomer- 
ates were formed upon them.* 

* Mr. Murchison states that the fish beds of the old red sandstone 
of Russia are spread over a surface larger than our island ! 

u 3 



214 GEOLOGY OF THE 

We have no right to expect many organic remains in a coarse 
mechanical rock like that above described. But in Scotland and 
Herefordshire the formation contains beds with many fossils, 
especially fish : and of all strange monsters, they are amongst 
the strangest which underground labours have brought to the 
light of day. As a group, they differ generically from all other 
living and fossil fish : some of them, in external characters, 
making a link with the crustacean order — having the gills and 
skeleton of a fish combined with a rough bony covering like that 
of a crab.* In other places, especially in Devonshire, the forma- 
tion has the mineral structure of a slate rock, and abounds with 
shells and corals ; which considered as a group, are formed on 
a type intermediate between that of the carboniferous limestone 
and of the older slates. f 

Before I attempt any sketch of the older slate rocks of the 
Cumbrian mountains, let me endeavour to translate into com- 
mon language that chapter in the strange old chronicles of the 
earth, of which we have been turning over the leaves from the 
end to the beginning. 

First then, we have the record of an ancient revolution given 
by the old conglomerates. — Secondly, the great scar limestone 
tells us of a long period of repose. Its coral reefs were formed 

* I take this opportunity of strongly recommending to the reader, a 
work on the Old red sandstone of Scotland, at once popular and 
scientific, and full of the most lively interest ; by Mr. H. Miller. Edin- 
burgh, 1841. 

f After an examination of the fossils in the hills between Kendal 
and the Lune, I found it impossible to separate the " tilestone" from 
the rocks on which it rests. (See Proceedings ofGeol. Soc. Lond. Nov. 
1841.) Mr. Murchison (Silurian System) adopted a subdivision of the 
Old red sandstone which had been some years published, and was sug- 
gested by the physical structure of Herefordshire. It does not, how- 
ever, represent the natural grouping of the fossils ; and he would now 
place the lower part of the "tilestones" in the upper division of his 
" Ludlow Rock." In the text, I am not however discussing the classi- 
fication of the rocks of Herefordshire, but endeavouring to give an 
answer to the question— whether there be any section, among the lake 
mountains, shewing a complete sequence of deposits from the upper 
slate rocks to the mountain limestone. I have replied in the negative 
as to the only spot in which the answer admits of any doubt. The 
" tilestones" of Helm, near Kendal, throw no light upon the question, 
as they are not overlaid by any newer rock. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 2 \ J 

in a shallow sea (for in such seas only do corals grow) : but in 
course of time it sank down, and a sea many hundred feet dec]) 
floated over it, and spread out upon it banks of sand, and mud, 

and drifted vegetables washed from the neighbouring land 

Thirdly, again was a period of repose, when a second bank of 
limestone, with its shells and corals, was tranquilly deposited ; 
after which was a second subsidence, like the former, and follow- 
ed by like effects. These operations were six times repeated in 
the formation of the eastern calcareous mountains ; each period 
of repose and each subsidence producing a repetition of like 
phenomena. — Fourthly, came the period of the millstone grit, 
when the bays and estuaries were gradually filled up, and marine 
animals ceased to leave their traces among the waters. — Lastly, 
the lagoons and estuaries were converted into lakes and marshes ; 
a rank tropical vegetation covered the ground, and produced the 
materials of future coal-fields. 

Still we are compelled to invoke the same powers of nature : 
for some of our coal-fields are thousands of feet in thickness, and 
I can see no intelligible means of accounting for them without 
the intervention of vast and repeated changes between the levels 
of land and water. But here I will escape from the slippery 
ground of hypothesis, and conclude this long letter. 

A. SEDGWICK. 
Cambridge, May 24, 1842. 



LETTER III. 

My dear Sir, — In my former letter I described the New 
red sandstone, the Carboniferous series, and the Old red sand- 
stone skirting the Lake mountains. I must now attempt a sketch 
of the slate rocks and granitic masses of the central region. 
Technical details I wish as far as possible to avoid : but I cannot 
omit them altogether, and am reluctantly compelled to begin this 
letter with them. 

Among the deposits above described, there is seldom any 
difficulty in making out the order of the beds : but the slate rock* 



216 GEOLOGY OF THE 

are highly inclined ; sometimes set on edge ; occasionally (though 
rarely in the lake country) turned upside down ; so that their 
order is in certain places involved in almost inextricable confusion. 
Every one, who pretends to observe for himself, must be provided 
with a good map and a pocket compass ; and as he rambles across 
the country, he may often see the slaty beds rising like a knife's 
edge through the soil, and running over the hills and across the 
valleys in undulating or zig-zag lines. At such points of view, 
he may, by help of his compass, easily determine, in a general 
way, the directions of the beds, and the points towards which 
they incline. Should he wish to make more accurate observa- 
tions, he must be provided with a spirit-level, for determining a 
horizontal plane, and a clinometer, for measuring the inclination 
of the beds : but these instruments (though easily packed along 
with the compass in a small pocket-case) are only necessary to one 
who is engaged in a detailed survey. 

The true direction of a stratum at any point, is represented by 
the line formed by the intersection of the smooth surface of the 
stratum with a horizontal plane, and is determined correctly by 
the horizontal edge of the spirit-level when applied to the sur- 
face. This line is technically called the strike of the bed ; and 
a line drawn on the surface of a bed, perpendicular to this line 
of strike, is called the line of dip or rise, accordingly as we take 
it in the descending or ascending direction. The quantity of 
dip is measured by the clinometer, and gives the inclination of 
the line of dip to the horizon. The directions of the several 
lines are determined by the compass. In this way, after multi- 
tudes of observations and comparisons (carefully registered, and 
if possible laid down on a map), we may make out all the essen- 
tial changes of dip and strike ; and we gradually learn to connect 
them together, to explain the features of the country by their 
help, and to draw from them results that are consistent with one 
another, and tell us the true order of the mineral masses. 

But among the older and more crystalline slates it is sometimes 
impossible to distinguish the several strata so as to mark their 
position. All the slate beds were at first in the condition of a 
very fine mud or silt, deposited, layer upon layer, by the sea : 
and in passing into a solid state the layers cohered so firmly as 
to become inseparable afterwards by any ordinary means. But 
another change of structure was at the same time brought about : 



LAKE DIST1UCT. 217 

the particles all underwent a new crystalline arrangement (like 
that of the laminae of a piece of spar) producing a regular cleav- 
age more or less inclined to the original beds. It is by these 
cleavage planes, and not along the planes of the true beds, that 
the quarry-men obtain the fine roofing slates. The observer 
must therefore learn to distinguish the nearly vertical lamina- 
tions of the great open slate quarries from the true beds which 
are generally much less inclined.* 

How then are we to determine the position of the true beds 
of slate ? — This can sometimes be done by help of alternating 
bands of coarser materials wherein the original bedding has not 
been obliterated by the slaty structure : a mass of slate between 
two such bands, must have its bedding parallel to them, what- 
ever may be the direction of its laminae of cleavage. — In other 
instances we infer the position of the true beds merely from ana- 
logy, knowing their situation in the neighbouring country For- 
tunately we may in many cases ascertain the lines of the true 
beds by an internal and secure test. The planes of the slates 
are often marked by parallel stripes of different colours. Among 
the finer green slates these stripes are generally paler than the 
other parts of the rock ; and as they mark the original lines of 
sediment, they are therefore parallel to the true bedding ; in- 
deed they generally mark the passage from one bed to another. 
Sometimes these stripes are seen on slaty laminae cutting through 
pyritous bands with shells and corals ; and in such cases the 
stripes upon the smooth surfaces of the slates are always parallel 
to the fossil bands, 

To make this structure understood, let us place flat layers of 
coloured clay one over another, and then press them together so 
that they may cohere and form one plastic mass ; and let us so 
arrange them that no layer of coloured clay may be visible ex- 
cepting the one at the top. In this position no inner structure 
can meet the eye ; but if a cut be made with a knife vertically 
through the mass, parallel stripes of colour (representing the 
different layers of clay) will immediately shew themselves on 
the face of the section thus obtained. The artificial section made 
by the knife represents the vertical slaty planes obtained by the 

* In Wales, Devonshire, and Cornwall there are many quarries, 
where the cleavage planes are less inclined than the beds. 



218 GEOLOGY OF THE 

quarry-man's wedge : and the stripes of coloured clay are strictly 
analogous to the sedimentary lines upon the smooth surface of 
the slates. 

There are, however, quarries of coarse slate, or flagstone, 
without the crystalline structure and the fine even surfaces above 
described, in which the bedding is distinctly visible, and each 
flagstone represents a true bed. The ripple mark (exactly like 
that on sea-sand between high and low water) is sometimes seen 
on the surface of such beds, and they are occasionally studded 
with the impressions of organic remains. Many of them are 
found on the hills south of Kendal, especially on Kirkby Moor ; 
but the finest examples are seen in the quarries near Ingleton 
and Horton.* 

There is another difficulty in the structure of slate rocks which 
must be shortly noticed. They are often intersected by a double 
set of parallel fissures or 'joints,' produced apparently by a con- 
traction of the mass while passing into a solid state. These lines 
may have been influenced by the crystalline action of the whole 
mass ; for they often divide the rocks on a mountain side into 
regular prismatic blocks, and produce much confusion in the po- 
sition of the true beds. They do not, however, so affect the 
inner composition of the rock as to produce persistent laminae 
parallel to their own planes ; and they are not therefore to be 
confounded with slaty cleavage. Their direction and inclination 
is variable ; but when they nearly coincide with the strike of the 
beds they may be called strike joints ; and when they are nearly 
transverse to the strike they may be called dip joints. — I must, 
however, here quit these dry details. My only wish, in alluding 
to them, is to save the observer from early difficulties, and to 
start him in the right direction. After all, it is only by expe- 
rience in the field that he will learn to interpret correctly the 
complicated characters impressed upon the older slates. f 

* The Horton flags have, however, an obscure cleavage plane, which 
sometimes injures the quality of the stone. 

f Among the Cumbrian mountains, the laminae of slaty cleavage are 
generally inclined at a great angle to the horizon. Sometimes the beds 
undulate and the cleavage planes remain constant. In such cases, the 
inclination of the cleavage planes to the true beds is continually chang- 
ing. In Devonshire and Cornwall we find (though very rarely) highly 
inclined beds with nearly horizontal cleavage planes ; and we also find 



LAKE DISTRICT. 219 

UPPER DIVISION OF THE SLATE ROCKS.* 

This division is based on the calcareous slates, which stretch 
from Milium, in the south-western corner of Cumberland, through 
the head of Coniston Water and the head of Windermere, to 
the neighbourhood of Shap Wells. To the south of this line, 
it is expanded through Furness Fells and a considerable portion 
of Westmorland; being bounded to the south-east by Morecarabe 
Bay and the carboniferous formations above described. The 
rocks within this area may be separated into several ill-defined 
groups. Three will be here adopted, in the hope that, as the 
country is more examined and better understood, they may be 
brought into strict accordance with the three principal Silurian 
groups of Mr. Murchison.f 

Upper Group. — This group commences with red flagstones, 

cleavage planes of great perfection which are parallel to the true beds. 
I know of no examples of like kind in the North of England : for there 
the cleavage planes (at least in the fine slate quarries) are always 
transverse to the beds; but amongst the finer slates the strike of the 
beds and the strike of the cleavage planes are nearly in the same direc- 
tion. Again in Devonshire, Cornwall, and North Wales, and in the 
chain of the Ardennes, I have seen a second set of cleavage planes, 
beautifully penetrating the slate rocks, and shewing the perfection of 
their crystalline arrangement : and these double cleavage planes were 
associated with the striped and double-jointed structure above no- 
ticed. As far as I know, there is no example of a second cleavage plane 
to be seen among the lake mountains ; and it is a rare appearance in 
the countries above noticed. 

* No. 5, in the wood cut. 

f In a paper read before the Geological Society of London, in 1832, 
I adopted Mr. J. Otley's threefold division of the Cumbrian slate rocks ; 
and I separated the upper division into three ill-defined groups; viz. 

First, the fossiliferous rocks of the fells south of Kendal, and of 
Kirkby Moor.— Secondly, rocks like the former in structure, but with 
a more slaty impress, and with very few traces of fossils.— Thirdly, 
a complicated group of calcareous slate (of which there are two prin- 
cipal bands), alternating with hard coarse siliceous beds, and with 
several thick beds of fine roofing slate obtained by transverse cleavage 
(Ireleth slate)— the whole resting on the fossiliferous limestone of 
Coniston Water Head. By "the three principal Silurian groups," are 
meant all the rocks described under the names "Ludlow," " Wenloch," and 
"Caradoc." The « Llandeilo flags" have no distinct representative in 
the north of England. 



220 



GEOLOGY OF THE 



which, above Kirkby Lonsdale, and close to their junction with 
the old red sandstone, contain calcareous concretions and numer- 
ous fossils. In making a traverse towards Kirkby Moor, the red 
flagstone is succeeded, in descending order, by purple, grey, 
greenish grey, and blue flagstone.— Some of the greenish bands 
exactly resemble some of the harder flagstones among the ' Lud- 
low rocks ' of Mr. Murchison : and the red flags nearly resemble 
the * tile stones' of Herefordshire, but are far less crystalline 
and micaceous. 

Still in descending order, the flagstones are followed by the 
hard grey siliceous rocks which extend, with many undulations 
and changes of * strike' through the hills between the upper 
part of the valleys of the Kent and the Lune. Among them are 
beds with an imperfect slaty structure ; and here and there are 
open and earthy bands (giving a honeycombed appearance to the 
rock), not unusually of a reddish-brown colour, and with innu- 
merable casts of fossils. Very thin, impure, calcareous beds 
(but of no continuity, and unfit for use) are seen in a few places 
near the lines of fossils. The most remarkable of them is at 
Oxenholme, on the side of the old road from Kendal to Kirkby 
Lonsdale. 

The whole group appears to be based on a set of hard thick 
beds, among which the fossils gradually disappear. They are 
of various colours : blueish-grey, greenish-grey, and occasionally 
of a dark purple and reddish tint : but their characters and dis- 
tribution are ill-defined. We may perhaps class with these the 
hard thick beds which break out from under Kendal Fell, and 
the similar beds which skirt the marshes near Witherslack and 
extend to the hills near Lindal.* 

Middle Group. — This group contains many hard, thick, silice- 
ous beds, nearly like those at the base of the preceding subdivi- 
sion ; but subordinate to it are striped flagstones, coarse slates 

* In 1823, I found Orthoceratites and other fossils in the rocks under 
the limestone of Kendal Fell, and I am informed by Mr. Danny, that 
he has obtained some of his best " Upper Silurian" fossils from the 
same group of rocks, at Brigsteer and other places on the west side 
of the valley of the Kent. During the two past years one or two 
bands of strata containing Terebratula Xaviada, have been traced 
through the country considerably to the north of Kendal Fell. They 
may, perhaps, hereafter give a better denned base line to this group. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 221 

with a decided transverse cleavage producing the striped surfaces 
above described. Good examples of this kind may be seen on 
the road from Kendal to Bowness, and on the old road from 
Kendal to Newby Bridge. 

The fine elevations of Howgill Fells and Middleton Fell are 
chiefly formed by the rocks of this subdivision : but those moun- 
tains are separated from the formations on the west bank of the 
Lune by enormous « faults,', and are thrown into such contortions 
that it is difficult to reduce the subordinate masses to any certain 
order. Their strike also differs from that on the west bank of 
the Lune, being nearly east and west ; and at the north end of 
Middleton Fell, the beds are so much bent to the south as to range 
nearly at right angles to the average strike of the central moun- 
tains. The more slaty beds of this group generally effervesce 
with acids ; but in no part of it have any good fossil bands been 
yet found. Hence there is considerable uncertainty as to its 
exact geological place ; especially as its upper and lower limits 
are so ill defined. 

Lower, or Ireleth slate, Group, — The base of this group is 
well defined by the range of Coniston limestone.* (See the wood- 
cut.) Its upper limit is not defined by any fossil bands, and may 
be considered in some measure as arbitrary : but it must inclose 
all the calcareous beds, and all the beds of good roofing slate. 
If a line be drawn from the crest of the hills between Broughton 
and Ulverston, through the foot of Coniston Water, to a point 
a little below the Ferry House on Windermere ; and from thence 
be prolonged (bending a little towards the east, so as to preserve 
a parallelism to the range of the Coniston limestone) through the 

* As this limestone forms the base of the whole upper division of the 
slate rocks, it may perhaps be well to give its range in more detail. 
It is seen at Beck, Water Blain, and Graystone House, in Cumberland. 
It then crosses into High Furness and may be followed by Broughton 
Mills, and Appletreethwaite, &c, to Yew Tree, near Coniston. 
Thence, after two enormous dislocations, it may be followed over the 
hills north-east of Coniston to Pool Wyke, near the head of Winder- 
mere. From the hills above Low Wood, it may be again followed 
across Troutbeck, over the hills to Kentmere Hall, and thence to Long 
Sleddale, where it is exposed in quarries near Little London. Lastly, 
after being lost under the turf bogs and partly cut off by the granite, 
it re-appears near Shap Wells, and so passes under the carboniferous 
rocks. 

w 



222 GEOLOGY OF THE 

lower part of Long Sleddale and the contorted slates near the 
foot of Bannisdale, it may be assumed as an approximate boundary 
between the lower and middle groups. 

Among the deposits on the north side of this line a slaty 
structure decidedly predominates ; and the rocks weather into 
fine picturesque forms, of which there are many beautiful ex- 
amples between Broughton and the foot of Coniston Water. 
The same features on a less scale are seen near the Ferry House 
on Windermere, where the rocks have an aspect so unlike the 
higher groups, that I at iirst mistook their nature, and supposed 
them to represent some ancient slates brought out by a great 
dislocation. 

The most remarkable beds in this group split, by a transverse 
cleavage, into fine roofing slates — distinguished from the more 
ancient slates, chiefly by a darker colour, and by the absence of 
green chloritic flakes upon the surface of the laminae. Noble 
quarries have long been opened in these slates near Kirkby 
Ireleth. Very fine beds of a dark-coloured flagstone (sometimes 
superficially coated with crystals of pyrites) are also worked in 
this group, especially in its lower portions. It contains also 
three or four bands of calcareous slate, two of which are fossili- 

ferous One of these ranges on the south side of the estuary of 

the Duddon — the other, already noticed, forms the base of the 
whole series. The latter is the most important from its numer- 
ous fossils, its thickness and continuity, and from its enormous 
shifts and displacements in its long range : especially where 
it strikes across the valleys that intersect its course. In this 
way it becomes an indication, not merely of the prevailing strike 
of the group, but of the manner in which its mineral masses 
have been fractured and dissevered during the periods of their 
elevation. 

Before I quit the upper division of the slate rocks, I may 
remark that the prevailing strike of the lower group is N.E. ; 
and traces of the same general impress may be found in the two 
upper groups as far as the shores of Morecambe Bay. There 
are however some remarkable deviations from this rule even in the 
lower group : and in the two upper groups the exceptions are so 
numerous, and the rocks exhibit such complicated undulations, 
that it is difficult to bring their bearings to any rules of sym- 
metry. Again, the great scar limestone skirting the shores of 



LAKE DISTRICT. 223 

Morecambe Bay is literally shattered into fragments by enormous 
north and south « faults;' and all the slate rocks on the southern 
border of the lake mountains have also been ripped up by great 
4 faults' (with the same general direction), which have greatly 
altered the positions and bearings of the beds. Valleys have 
been scooped out on lines of fracture : and all the great water 
channels that descend towards Morecambe Bay (from the Lune 
on the east to the Duddon on the west) have a prevailing north 
and south course. 

There still remains a question, — what is the age of this upper 
division of the slate rocks ? An answer can only be given by an 
appeal to the fossils. So far as I am acquainted with the fossils 
of the upper group, they contain about forty species found in the 
* Upper Silurian' rocks of Mr. Murchison, and five or six which 
he formerly referred to the lowest beds of the old red sandstone; 
but which in Westmorland are distributed through the whole of 
the upper group. With these, are eight or ten species not yet 
described- The conclusion is inevitable, viz. that the whole 
group represents only the Upper Silurian rocks (Ludlow, &c). 
The Coniston limestone and the calcareous slates of Kirkby 
freleth contain numerous corals of the Wenlock ami Dudley lime- 
stones. Among them the chain coral (Catenipora) is abundant. 
They contain also one or two Silurian Triiobites ; and shells of 
several genera (especially the genus Orthzs) specifically the same 
with the shells of the * Caradoe sandstone/ It therefore follows, 
that the base of the lower group, here described, is of the age of 
the lower Silurian rocks (not using that term in any extended 
and indefinite sense, but strictly as it was first employed by its 
author) — and that the whole upper division represents the ' Silu- 
rian system;" the middle part of it being, unfortunately, almost 
without fossils to help us in the demarcation of the three groups.* 

* I profess to make no material changes in the text of these letters, 
and the above paragraph is reprinted as it was first written. But 1 have 
now a much better set of fossils, some of which Mr. Sowcrby has been 
engaged in figuring : and a short account of them will be given in an 
appendix. I formerly attempted to class the Coniston limestone with 
the limestone of Bala, and the rocks of the middle group with the Blase 
rocks of the Berwyns and of South Wales. But after the discover 
of a better arrangement of the Devonian slates, I abandoned this view , 
and adopted the one here given. Of the older rocks of South Wales, 

w .2 



224 GEOLOGY OF THE 

MIDDLE DIVISION OF THE SLATE ROCKS — GREEN SLATE AND 
PORPHYRY.* 

This division forms a vast group, rising into the highest and 
most rugged mountains of the whole region. It contains two 
distinct classes of rock — aqueous and igneous : but they are piled 
one upon another in tabular masses of such regularity, and are 
so interlaced and blended, that we are compelled to regard them 
as the effects of two distinct causes, acting simultaneously during 
a long geological period. The igneous portions present almost 
every variety of felstone and felstone porphyry ; sometimes pass- 
ing into greenstone, and rarely into masses with a structure like 
that of basalt. All the aqueous rocks have more or less a slaty 
structure, and pass in their most perfect form into the finest 
roofing slates. f 

I know little from personal survey, and there are but few parts of that 
extensive country which I have ever visited. I believe, however, that 
its older rocks will be found nearly of the same age with those of Car- 
narvonshire and Merionethshire. The fossils of the Coniston and Bala 
limestones are indeed very nearly the same. But I do not wish to 
bring them into a close comparison : because the fossiliferous rocks of 
North Wales (with a lower Silurian type) are of an enormous thickness > 
and contain bands of organic remains, some of which are far below, and 
some, if I mistake not, far above the limestone of Bala. In the Geo- 
logical Map of Westmorland, belonging to the ' Kendal Natural His- 
tory Society/ one tint only is given to the upper division of the slates ; 
from the impossibility of drawing, with any degree of correctness, the 
lines of demarcation between the groups. Should fossils be ever found 
in sufficient abundance to determine the point, it might be well perhaps 
to tint the whole division in two colours — one representing the upper 
and the other the lower Silurian rocks. In the absence of well-defined 
calcareous beds (Wenlock limestone) any further subdivision will per- 
haps be found impossible. — Of the Coniston fossils, I procured during 
my survey a good series, which has been since improved by some excel- 
lent specimens I owe to my friend Mr. J. Marshall. My list from the 
upper group has been greatly improved by the kind assistance of my 
friends Messrs. Gough and Danby, of Kendal, and by specimens pro- 
cured from Mr. John Ruthven. My best fossils from Kirkby moor 
were procured in 1822, under the guidance of Smith, the * father of 
English geology,' on the day I first became acquainted with him. 

* No. 6, in the wood-cut. 

f I have adopted the word Jetstone from the Germans ; who, by the 
word feldstein, sometimes express those minerals which we commonly, 



LAKE DISTRICT, 225 

But why are rocks, so different both in appearance and origin, 
to be confounded in one formation ?— Because nature has made 
them inseparable. The tabular masses of true erupted ' plutonic 
rock' alternate with, and pass by insensible gradations into, great 
beds of breccia and 'plutonic' silt. The breccias are often as 
hard as the parent rocks ; being cemented by a felspathic paste, 
occasionally studded with garnets and crystals of felspar ; and 
they sometimes put on a columnar form ; and the plutonic silt passes 
into a hard, flaky, shining rock, which often has a transverse 
cleavage with an uneven, shining, wavy surface (exactly like that 
of some varieties of German schaalstein). We have only to 
follow such changes a little farther, and we are conducted, with- 
out seeing where w T e pass their boundaries, into great deposits 
of the most perfect roofing slates. Of these slates, quartz in the 
finest state of comminution, and earthy chlorite partly derived 
from the plutonic silt, are the chief constituents. 

The plutonic rocks were poured out under a deep sea ; and 
the breccias were formed mechanically (like volcanic breccias 
found among streams of modern lava), and were cemented under 
great pressure. The plutonic silts have an intermediate struc- 
ture ; but their beds must have been spread out by the waters of 
the sea. The roofing slates are but the extreme case of fine 
aqueous sediment, chiefly derived from the erupted matter, and 
sinking into -successive beds during intervals of repose : and so 

but inaccurately, have called compact felspar. The words compact spar 
involve a contradiction. The name schaalstein (or, shale-stone) has 
been applied to a great variety of slaty rocks, in Nassau and the Hartz, 
intermediate between true slates and erupted trappean rocks. — The 
word plutonic is used to distinguish igneous rocks, erupted under the 
sea, from volcanic rocks which have been poured out in the open air. 
Any rock is called a, porphyry, which has a nearly uniform base studded 
with crystals. — Granite is formed by the union of quartz, felspar, and 
mica — when the mica is replaced by hornblende, the rock becomes a 
syenite. — Greenstone is a fine-grained rock composed of felspar and 
hornblende, and when these minerals are well defined, the rock is called 
a syenitic greenstone. — When the crystals are very small, and the rock 
almost compact, it is said to be basaltic. — These different forms of rock 
pass insensibly one into another. — A conglomerate is formed by pebbles 
more or less rounded by water. — A breccia is chiefly made up of angu- 
lar fragments. All the minerals mentioned in these letters may be 
easily procured, and will soon be sufficiently familiar to any one who 
wishes to study the older rocks. 

w 3 



226 GEOLOGY OF THE 

far they are analogous to the fine beds of volcanic silt as often 
formed by the waters of a lake out of the ashes of a modern 
crater. 

In the Cumbrian mountains, no organic remains are found 
among these rocks. The aqueous deposits seem to have been 
too often interrupted by igneous action to permit the growth of 
shell beds and coral banks. Shells and corals are however found 
(though rarely) among the slate rocks of Snowdonia : but there 
the igneous beds are less abundant, and were probably poured out 
at longer intervals of time. 

When I began, twenty years since, to examine the lake 
country, I believed in the igneous origin of basaltic and porphy- 
ritic rocks : but I was staggered in my creed, and filled with 
astonishment, almost at every step, when I saw the alternating 
masses of slate and porphyry, and the way in which they were 
blended together. The Wernerian hypothesis has now passed 
away, and has been extinguished by the more mature discoveries 
of an advancing science ; but it lent itself readily to the expla- 
nation of many perplexing facts, and had the merit, at first sight, 
of great simplicity ; and I may venture to affirm, that no one is 
prepared to understand it, or to do any justice to its author, who 
has not studied, in the field, such phenomena as are continually 
offered by the Cumbrian slates.* 

The southern boundary of this great group is defined by the 
range of the Coniston limestone. The northern boundary cannot 
be well understood without the aid of a geological map : but an 
approximation may be made to it by drawing a line from the foot 
of Wolf Crag to Wanthwaite Crag — continuing it thence by Wal- 
low Crag, near Keswick — by the foot of the great precipices at 
the head of Newlands, the base of Honister Crag, and the upper 
precipices of High Stile, and so round by the great coves of 
Ennerdale Head to the north side of the Hay Cock — and lastly, 
from the Hay Cock to the north side of Seatallan, and thence in 
a devious line, which turns to the north, extending several miles 

* The alternations of aqueous and igneous rocks have been illus- 
trated, with many excellent details, in the recent works of Sir H. 
De la Beche and Mr. Murchison. The explanation given above was 
adopted soon after I had finished my Survey of Cumberland, and was 
published in 1832. See the Proceedings of the Geological Society of 
London, Vol. i. p. 401. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 227 

beyond Ponsonby Fells. With limited exceptions, all the strati- 
fied rocks (aqueous and igneous) in the high mountains inclosed 
within these boundaries, strike towards the N.E., and dip at a 
great angle towards the S.E.; and their whole thickness, after 
every deduction, must be enormous. The beds were set on edge by 
a gigantic force, urging them from below ; and in the progress 
of elevation, mountain masses were torn asunder and starred by 
diverging lines of ' fault.' In a few places indeed the dip was 
reversed; but the great beds of porphyry (which must have 
passed into a solid state in cooling) held the masses firm, and 
kept them from being twisted and bent about, like the upper 
slates. 

Of the brecciated rocks, above described, a fine example occurs 
on the side of the road at Barrow near Keswick. Masses, 
similar in structure and colour, pass through Wanthwaito Crag 
and the foot of Binsey Crag. Numerous examples may also be 
seen in the great precipices that overhang the higher parts of 
Eskdale, Wastdale, Ennerdale, and Borrowdale ; in the passes 
between Borrowdale and Grasmere ; at the head of Kentmere ; 
and on almost every line of traverse through the higher 
mountains. * 

The plutonic silt, and other beds intermediate between the 
erupted rocks and the slates, are spread, here and there, almost 
through the whole country under notice. They are sometimes 
cellular (probably from the action of heat), the cells being 
filled with agates and other minerals ; and they generally effer- 
vesce briskly when first plunged in acids. 

The position and range of some of the principal slate beds can- 
not escape notice, as they are often marked by lines of great 
open quarries. The only difficulty is to know their true dip ; 
for the slaty impress has often destroyed all external traces of the 
bedding. On this point I must refer to the remarks at the begin- 
ning of this letter. One of the best spots for studying, among 
these old rocks, the difference between cleavage and dip, is 
near the jaws of Borrowdale, especially in the great crags which 
overhang the Skiddaw slate on the north side of the gorge. 

Of the external features of the lake mountains I attempt not 

* The brecciated rocks near Barrow have often been noticed. They 
are not, however, local phenomena ; but belong to the general struc- 
ture of this middle division of the slates. 



228 GEOLOGY OF THE 

to speak ; except so far as they are connected with the inner 
frame-work of the country. The rocks were elevated and rent 
asunder — and the rudiments of all the deeper valleys were thus 
formed in times immeasurably removed from our own days. 
Again and again have the mountains been shattered by faults, 
and swept by denuding currents. Their varied structure has 
produced features of many forms. Some have been worn down 
by the corroding power of time, and are now buried under soil 
and moorland ; others have stood almost unmoved among the 
buffetings of the elements, and have an aspect now nearly as 
rugged as that with which they were first lifted from the sea. 

Another zone, belonging to the green slate and porphyry 
formation, appears on the north side of the third and lowest 
division of the slate rocks ; which thus forms a * mineral axis ' 
with a repetition of the same formations on its opposite sides. 
(See the wood-cut). This zone begins at Berriar, skirts the 
eastern side of Carrock Fell, rises into High Pike, and is well 
marked in Binsey Crag: it afterwards gradually thins away, and 
it disappears near Brigham. In this range it rests on the Skid- 
daw slate, and is immediately surmounted by the carboniferous 
limestone, the upper division of the slates not appearing on this 
side of Cumberland. Compared with the groups above described, 
it is in a very degenerate form : it contains, however, almost 
every variety of rock above noticed. In several parts of it the 
porphyries so abound as almost to exclude all appearance of true 
slates. Near High Pike it is penetrated by many metallic veins, 
probably connected with the causes which produced the syenite 
of Carrock Fell, and the granite of Skiddaw Forest. 

LOWER DIVISION OF THE SLATE ROCKS — SKIDDAW SLATE.* 

This division (the true position of which was first determined 
by Mr. J. Otley) is spread over a large area ; being bounded 
by the rocks of the preceding division, and the carboniferous 
zone extending from the old red sandstone, near the foot of Ulls- 
water, to Egremont. For a few miles south of Egremont, the 
western end of the Skiddaw slate is immediately overlaid by the 
new red sandstone. 

It is of great but unknown thickness ; and it has little con- 

* No. 7, in the wood-cut. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 229 

stancy in its strike and dip, being thrown into great undulations, 
indicated by the irregular features and varied outline of the 
country. The coombs and peaks surrounding Skiddaw Forest, 
and the beautiful succession of grassy mountains between Der- 
w r ent Water and Crummock Water present the best features of 
this formation. It is chiefly composed of a dark coloured glossy 
slate, occasionally penetrated by great veins of white quartz ; 
and small veins of that mineral are sometimes seen to ramify 
through every part of the rock : but it contains no organic 
remains, and hardly a trace of carbonate of lime. Roofing slate 
has in a few places been obtained from it ; but most of the quar- 
ries have been abandoned. Occasionally, it passes into the state 
of a micaceous flagstone, and it alternates, rarely, with coarse 
gritty beds. On the whole, it is distinguished from the higher 
groups by its dark colour and fine texture, by the absence of 
alternating bands of igneous rock, and by its seldom efferves- 
cing with acids. Many of the beds of the middle division of 
slates contain a considerable portion of carbonate of lime and 
effervesce briskly in acids. Again, in the Skiddaw slate many 
of the masses flake off parallel to the beds, and the cleavage 
planes are not so well defined as they are among the green slates : 
in other places, however, the stratification is very obscure. 
Except as being the base of the whole series of the Cumbrian 
deposits, and the matrix of some curious metallic veins, this divi- 
sion possesses little comparative interest. 

Before I end this sketch of the Cumbrian rocks, I must notice 
a beautiful group of crystalline slates, which are seen in Skiddaw 
Forest, between the black slates above described and the 
granite of the Caldew. If we descend from the high peaks of 
Skiddaw or Saddleback to any of the bosses of granite which 
break out near the banks of the rivulet, we cross a series of slaty 
rocks nearly in the following order : — 

1. Dark glossy slate studded with a few crystals of chiastolite. 
It is overlaid by, and passes into, common Skiddaw slate. 

2. A similar slate with more numerous crystals of chiastolite ; 
passing at its lower limit into a hard, shining, sonorous rock 
almost made up of matted crystals of that mineral. 

3. Mica slate spotted with ill-formed crystals of chiastolite. 

4. Quartzose, and micaceous slates of very irregular struc- 
ture ; sometimes passing, when close to the granite, into the 
form of gneiss. 



230 GEOLOGY OF THE 

I believe that this beautiful mineral group is nothing more 
than the Skiddaw slate, altered and mineralized by the long 
continued action of subterranean heat. The granite, though a 
fused rock, may not have produced the whole of this change ; but 
it is at least an indication of the kind of power by which the 
' metamorphic' structure was brought about. 

I here bring to an end my notice of the Cumbrian slates. To 
one who is not interested by the complicated structure of the 
older rocks, it may have appeared tedious and repulsive ; but I 
knew not how to make it shorter, and it relates perhaps to the 
most difficult chapter in geology. 

GRANITE, SYENITE, PORPHYRY, PORPHYRITIC DYKES, AND OTHER 
IGNEOUS ROCKS. 

It remains for me to notice a series of rocks, not formed, bed 
upon bed, by the agency of water ; but protruded by subter- 
ranean fires among the deposits above described. 

Granite of Skiddaw Forest, Sfc. — I mention this rock first, 
because it rises out from beneath the oldest strata of Cumber- 
land (No, 8, in the wood-cut) ; and appears to indicate the cause 
that first elevated the cluster of mountains, of which the peaks 
of Skiddaw and Saddleback form the highest points. But I can 
offer no proof that it is older than the beautiful syenite of Car- 
rock, or the granite of Eskdale, or the red syenite of Ennerdale 
and Buttermere. It breaks out at Syning Gill, between Saddle- 
back and Skiddaw ; afterwards at a lower level near the Caldew, 
in the channel of which it may be seen for more than a mile ; 
and lastly, about a mile above Swinside, near the first ramifica- 
tions of the rivulet. At this last place it derives great interest 
from its near approach to the syenite of Carrock Fell, from its 
changes of structure, from the mineral veins by which it is 
traversed, and from the highly crystallized and altered form of 
all the neighbouring slate rocks.* 

* None of the veins were worked to profit when I last visited the 
spot, nearly twenty years since. They were, however, occasionally 
opened by mineral dealers : for they contain apatite, schorl, tungsten, 
wolfram, and several other minerals in considerable abundance. I was 
struck with the close resemblance of the mineralized portion of Skid- 
daw Forest to certain parts of Cornwall near the junction of the 
granite and slate. The physical phenomena are nearly the same ; but 
the Cornish slates are of a much more recent date than the slates oi 
Skiddaw. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 231 

Syenite of Carrock Fell, fyc — This beautiful rock exhibits 
almost endless varieties of structure : but it is chiefly noted for 
its crystals of hypersthene, and for the great quantities of titani- 
ferous oxide of iron disseminated through its mass. On the 
eastern side of the hill it passes into a common syenite. In its 
farther range towards the east, it becomes almost as compact as 
basalt, and has, here and there, a globular structure : and, lastly, 
in its prolongation in the form of a narrow tongue into the ex- 
treme branches of the gills on the east side of High Pike, it passes 
into a felspar rock. This whole mass plunges under a group of 
igneous and altered rocks : and when on the spot, I considered 
it only as an instance of one of the porphyries, near the base of 
the middle division of the slates (green slate and porphyry), in 
an unusual state of crystallization. Should this opinion (thrown 
out as a conjecture) be confirmed, we must then consider this 
syenite as older than the neighbouring granite : for all the 
granites in the lake country are unquestionably of more recent 
date than the two lower divisions of the Cumbrian slates. 

Porphyry of St. Johns Vale. — Of this rock (which never, I 
believe, passes into a true granite, but might be described as a 
variety of syenite) there are two principal masses — one, stretch- 
ing for about a mile northwards from St. John's Chapel — the 
other, of still larger dimensions, ranging in the same direction, 
on the other side of the valley, from the base of Wanthwaite 
Crag. Two other small masses break through the Skiddaw 
slate a little farther towards the east, near White Pike. What 
was the exact date of the eruption of these plutonic rocks, I do 
not pretend to determine. When the largest mass was protrud- 
ed, it bore upon its surface an enormous fragment of Skiddaw 
slate, which was thus elevated far above its natural level, 
mineralized by heat, and jammed against the base of Wanthwaite 
Crag. I mention these phenomena, because they are of great 
interest to any one who wishes to mark the effects produced by 
the protrusion of igneous rocks. 

The subterranean forces had strength to raise the great masses 
of porphyry through the soft and yielding Skiddaw slate ; but 
not to push them through the higher group of green slates, which 
were held together too firmly by the older bands of bedded 
porphyry to be penetrated by such a movement. Hence it is, 
that the porphyry of St. John's Vale abuts against, but does not 



232 GEOLOGY OF THE 

pierce, the middle division of the slates, which range through Great 
Dod and Helvellyn — The great 'fault* represented by the 
deep valley between Raise Gap and the bottom of St. John's 
Vale, must obviously have been formed after the eruption of the 
porphyry. 

Granite of Eskdale, &fc — This is, out of all comparison, the 
largest mass of Cumberland granite. It ranges southward as far 
as Bootle, on the north side of which place it abuts against some 
highly mineralized Skiddaw slate ; and it forms the rugged hills 
on both sides of the Esk and the Mite, ranging up to the higher 
forks of those rivers. At its north-western and north-eastern 
extremities it runs out into two long projecting masses — one of 
which strikes over Irton Fell and blends itself with the syenite of 
Wastdale Foot : — the other, after ranging along the side of 
Scawfell, above Burntmoor Tarn, breaks out, here and there, 
from under the turf-bogs, and passes over the hills into Wast- 
dale Head. 

It would be in vain for me, in this short summary, to attempt 
any regular description of this granite : but the following facts 
deserve notice — 

About half a mile from Bootle, the granite has been injected, 
in the form of large ramifying veins, into a black porphyritic 
rock, which is, I believe, only an altered condition of Skiddaw r 
slate. 

In one of the w r ater-courses in the same neighbourhood the 
greater part of the rock is quite earthy in structure ; but shews 
a number of hard spheroidal central masses, like the hard balls in 
decomposing basalt. 

Descending into Wastdale Head by Burntmoor Tarn, we meet 
with traces of granite veins, and fragments of slate entangled in 
the granite. 

In the upper parts of Eskdale, the granite in one or two 
places passes into a nearly compact rock, and has a semi-columnar 
structure. 

At the upper surface of the granite, and near the lines of 
demarcation between the granite and the slates, there is not 
unusually a zone of felspathic or syenitic rock ; which forms such 
a passage between the two formations that it is no easy matter 
to determine the exact boundary line of either. These appear- 
ances seem to have been caused by the gradual fusion and 



LAKE DISTRICT. 233 

altered structure of the masses at the base of the green slate and 
porphyry. 

Red felspathic veins (in structure like the peculiar rocks just 
noticed) shoot from the granite into the green slates and por- 
phyries. Many examples of this kind are seen in the hills near 
Eskdale Head. 

On the north-western side of Devock Water, are many fine 
masses of crystalline quartz rock close to the junction of the 
granite and green slate. 

Pyritous veins with micaceous iron ore are found here and 
there, at the junction of the granite and the slate. — Facts like 
these may help the observer in drawing right conclusions from 
the intricate phenomena presented by this part of Cumberland. 

Syenite of Ennerdale and Buttermere. — This beautiful rock 
ranges from the neighbourhood of Nether Wastdale Chapel to a 
point about two miles above the foot of the lake. After being 
covered by some highly crystallized and rugged masses of slate 
and porphyry, it breaks out again in Bolton wood, and extends 
towards the north as far as the side of Reveling Pike ; and 
thence across Ennerdale Water to the Scaw and Herdhouse — at 
the latter mountain abutting against the Skiddaw slate. Its 
eastern boundary ranges on the north side of Seatallan and the 
Haycock ; and then descends in a long undulating line through 
the great coves ; and crosses the Ennerdale river under the 
Pillar. The red syenite forms the rugged hills, from the lower 
part of Ennerdale Water to a point more than two miles above 
the head of the lake ; then ascends towards the N.E. by the 
shoulder of Red Pike, and thence it may be followed to Butter- 
mere and the hills beyond Scale Force. 

After many a toilsome walk, I made out the boundaries of the 
Eskdale granite and the Ennerdale syenite. But there was no 
good physical map on which I could lay down my observations 
correctly. What is here stated may be enough, and perhaps 
more than enough, for the readers of these letters. The follow- 
ing are the best places for studying the nature of the syenite 
and its effects upon the stratified rocks : — The junction between 
the south side of Reveling Pike and the western shore of Enner- 
dale Water. — The junction of the syenite and Skiddaw slate at 
Herdhouse. — The south side of the whole pass from Ennerdale 
by Floutern Tarn to Buttermere ; and the whole escarpment 



234 GEOLOGY Of TS£ 

under Red Pike, High Stile, and High Crag. — The junctions - 
in the upper part of Ennerdale below the Pillar. 

The syenite abuts against the Skiddaw slate of Reveling Pike ; 
and below the junction, in the hills skirting the west side of 
Ennerdale Water, the slate rocks are much mineralized. Simi- 
lar effects may be seen on the north side of Herdhouse ; where 
the black slates are so changed that they can hardly be distin- 
guished from the porphyries of the middle division. — Between 
the foot of Buttermere and Floutern Tarn the phenomena along 
the line of junction are most varied and instructive. The syenite 
runs through the Skiddaw slate in the form of enormous dykes, 
or ramifies through it in veins. In some places the formations 
are in almost inextricable confusion — the slate rocks in one place 
abutting on the syenite, in another supporting it, and in a third 
resting upon it. — A great mass of the Skiddaw slate has been 
caught up by the syenite, carried to the top of Red Pike, 
and wedged against the green porphyries of High Stile. — Three 
masses of syenite break through the mineralized Skiddaw slate 
in the brows overhanging Buttermere ; and close to one of them 
is a mineral vein. — Lastly, where the line of junction crosses 
Ennerdale, below the Pillar, veins of syenite are seen streaming 
from the central mass into the green slate and porphyry of the 
middle group. — In no one case, however, has this syenite in mass 
penetrated the green slates or passed over them. 

Granite of Wasdale Crags, near Shap. — This fine red por- 
phyritic granite is too well known to need description ; but the 
effects it has produced on the neighbouring deposits require a 
short notice. The rocks on all sides of it are extremely 
mineralized and changed, apparently by the action of heat. It 
breaks out at the base of the upper division of the slates, and for 
some distance appears to have cut off the Coniston limestone. 
The limestone, however, appears again on the north side of it, 
and runs down to Shap Wells, but in an altered, shattered, and 
partly brecciated condition. The flagstones (of the upper divi- 
sion of the slates) are tilted from the granite at a great angle, 
are much indurated, and have a splintery fracture. Lastly, the 
slates close to the granite, above Wasdale Head, are completely 
mineralized, and pierced by small veins of granite injected from 
the central mass. 

As a general conclusion from all the preceding facts, necessarily 



Lake district. 235 

given in a most condensed form, we may venture to affirm, 
that all the great masses of porphyry, granite, and syenite above 
noticed, are rocks of fusion — that portions of them were raised 
while in a fluid state (otherwise how can we account for the 
granitic masses injected among the slates ?) — and lastly, that the 
same heat which fused the granite or syenite, acting perhaps for 
many ages upon all the neighbouring rocks, produced that 
altered and mineralized structure which is so often seen round 
the centres of eruption, 

Porphyritic dykes, and other Igneous rocks. — Some of the 
porphyritic dykes are of great interest ; and the subterranean 
forces by which they were injected among the great breaks and 
* faults' of the slate series, have had a very powerful influence 
upon the position of the beds, and the features of the country. 
A few of them must be noticed. 

1 . The finest dyke in Cumberland is seen in Kirkfell at Wast- 
dale Head ; the mountain has been rent asunder from top to 
bottom, and a great dyke of granitic porphyry has risen through 
the fissure. Its junction with the granite at the base of the 
mountain is not seen, and should it hereafter be found to blend 
itself with the central mass, it will then be an example of a 
gigantic granite vein ; but from its structure and the straight- 
ness of its course 1 should rather compare it with the porphyry 
dykes (or ' elvans') of Cornwall ; and if this view be right, it 
must have been injected through a fissure cutting both through 
the granite and the green slates. I may here also notice one or 
two vertical syenitic dykes which rise from Wastdale Head and 
cut through the mineralized slates between Great End and 
Scawfell Pikes. 

2. A beautiful dyke of red syenitic porphyry may be traced 
from the crown of the hill west of Thirlmere into a great water- 
course above Armboth. It shews many changes of structure, 
and is in some places almost compact at its junction with the 
slate ; in which respect it is similar to many Cornish 'elvans.' 

3. Many striking examples of red porphyritic dykes are seen 
in the channel of the Duddon below Seathwaite, and in the hills 
on the west side of the river. They are seen also on the north 
side of Black Coomb, and in one of the deep gills that descends 
from the north-eastern side towards Bootle : and on its western 
side granitic dykes break out near its base. Black Coomb is of 

x 2 



236 GEOLOGY OF THE 

contorted Skiddaw slate ; and has by a great £ fault ' been raised 
two or three thousand feet above its natural level. May we not 
conclude, that the same subterranean forces which rent the solid 
rocks asunder and poured the dykes of molten matter through 
the cracks, employed also their strength in dissevering whole 
mountains, and elevating Black Coomb into its present position 
among the green slates and bedded porphyries ?* 

4. There are ^ve places, not far from the Shap granite, where 
red porphyritic dykes come to the surface — on the north side 
of Wet Sleddale — in the valley above High Borough Bridge 
(the dyke strikes nearly north and south and descends towards 
Bannisdale) — on the crown of the hill at the right-hand side of 
the road ascending from the same place towards Shap — and in 
two places farther north, and near the road side. These dykes 
cannot, I think, be properly described as granite veins ; because 
no veins resembling them are seen near the junction of the 
granite and the slates. They are, however, indications of the 
same powers of nature which produced the granite, but acting at 
a later period. 

5. Lastly, to avoid details inevitably dry and tedious, I may 
add that dykes resembling those above described are found near 
the foot of Coniston Lake — on the road between Coniston and 
Hawkshead — on the north side of Middleton Fell — and among 
the slate rocks between the valleys of Dent and Sedbergh. 

All the preceding dykes were, I believe, injected before 
the period of the old red sandstone. But there are, among the 
Cumbrian mountains, masses and dykes of dark-coloured trappean 

* Any one who takes an interest in these phenomena, wonld do well 
to make a traverse from the south-western shore of the Duddon sands 
to the "Whieham valley, and thence oyer Black Coomb to Bootle. On 
this line the formations appear in the following order: — Mountain 
limestone (Hodbarrow Point, &e.) — Dark coloured slate and flagstone 
— Coniston limestone — Green slate and porphyry (Milium Park) — 
Skiddaw slate, at a low level on the south-east side of the great * fault*. 
All the preceding groups dip toward the S.E. The great 'fault* 
ranges down the Whieham valley, and on the north-western side of it 
the contorted beds of Black Coomb are brought up with a dip reversed 
towards the N.W. In the remaining part of the section over Black 
Coomb, Skiddaw slate is continued; then porphyry and altered Skid- 
daw slate ; and lastly, granite and granite veins. The two last are 
seen near Bootle. 



LAKE DISTRICT. 237 

rock, sometimes approaching the structure of basalt, which are 
perhaps of a newer date. They perform no part, however, 
which makes them of any importance to my present outline ; and 
geological dates founded on the mineral structure of plutonic 
rock cannot much be relied upon.* 

In whatever way the mountain masses of granite and syenite 
were protruded, they must have produced enormous derange- 
ments among all the slate rocks. Judging, however, from the 
Black Coomb * fault', and from the dykes in the valley of the 
Duddon, and at Wastdale Head, in Cumberland, I believe that 
the greatest elevations and contortions of the slates took place 
after the eruption of the granite and syenite. The subterranean 
powers, pent in by the cooling of the plutonic rocks, pushed the 
whole region upward into an irregular dome. The struggle 
between the expansive forces below and the tension of the rocks 
above (igneous as well as aqueous) may have been long con- 
tinued ; the whole slate series may have been thrown into great 
undulations, and set on edge ; dyke after dyke may have been 
injected ; and the highest parts of the dome may have been star- 
red by diverging faults, cutting their way indifferently through 
slates, granites, and syenites. The valleys now diverging from 
Scawfell represent the directions of these ancient ' faults' : and 
many other breaks and faults (represented in direction by the 
other valleys of the lake country) must have been formed during 
this period of disruption and confusion, before the conglomerates 
of the old red sandstone were spread upon the outskirts of the 
mountains. 

* For the sake of those who may wish to examine the country in 
detail, I may mention a few examples of such dykes as are alluded to 
in the text. — 

The road-side near Long Close, and thence up to the brow of Great 
Dod, on the eastern side of Skiddaw- : in this brow there are many 
dykes. — The western side of Bassenthwaite Lake.— Near the foot of 
the same lake, and along the ridge of the hill on the north side of the 
road from thence to Cockermouth. — Two or three places to the S. and 
S.E. of Cockermouth.— The left side of the road from Penruddock and 
Threlkeld, near Lane-head.— These are all in the Skiddaw slate. 
(In the middle division of the slates there may be many recent trappean 
rocks : but it must be very difficult to separate them from the old bed- 
ded porphyries.)— Near Bowland Bridge, on the old road from Kendal 
to Ulverston. &c. &c. 

x 3 



238 GEOLOGY OF THE 

On the northern side of the district described in these letters, 
many of the valleys descending from the higher mountains are 
turned aside by the terrace of the carboniferous limestone ; and, 
after running some distance parallel to its * strike', escape through 
it, by fissures of a newer date. But on the south side, the upper 
division of the slates was fissured by many great north and south 
' faults', which traverse the limestone without being turned 
aside by it, and must therefore have been produced at some 
period after it was deposited. Faults of different ages some- 
times intersected one another, and afterwards contributed to form 
one valley. Thus, Langdale and the upper part of Windermere 
shew the direction of one of the old diverging lines of fault : but 
the lower part of the lake is in the direction of one of the more 
recent lines of fracture. 

In the preceding letters I have endeavoured to explain the 
structure of the district in the same way in which a mechanist 
teaches the movements of a machine — by taking it to pieces. 
All the deposits have been described in a contrary order from 
that in which they were put together by nature's hand. Let 
me now endeavour, in imagination, to re-construct the great 
frame- work of the Cumbrian mountains. 

I. Beds of mud and sand were deposited in an ancient sea, 
apparently without the calcareous matter necessary to the life of 
shells and corals, and without any traces of organic forms. — 
These were the elements of the Skiddaw r slate. 

II. Plutonic rocks were then, for many ages, poured out 
among the aqueous sediments — beds were broken up and re- 
cemented — plutonic silt and other materials in the finest com- 
minution were deposited along with the igneous rocks — the 
effects were again and again repeated, till a deep sea was filled 
with a formation many thousand feet in thickness. — These were 
the materials of the middle division of the Cumbrian slates. 

III. A period of comparative repose followed. Beds of 
shells and bands of corals formed upon the more ancient rocks : 
they were interrupted by beds of sand and mud, and these pro- 
cesses were many times repeated ; and thus, in a long succession 
of ages, were the deposits of the upper slates completed, 

IV. Towards the end of the preceding period, mountain 
masses of plutonic rock were pushed through the older deposits 
—and after many revolutions, all the divisions of the slate series 



LAKE DISTRICT. 239 

were elevated and contorted by movements not affecting the 
newer formations. 

V. The conglomerates of the old red sandstone were then 
spread out, by the beating of an ancient surf, continued for many 
ages, upon the upheaved and broken edges of the slates. 

VI. Again occurred a period of comparative repose ; the 
coral reefs of the mountain limestone, and the whole carboniferous 
series, were formed ; but not without many great oscillations 
between the levels of land and sea. 

VII. An age of disruption and violence succeeded, marked 
by the discordant position of the rocks, and by the conglo- 
merates under the new red sandstone. At the beginning 
of that time was formed the great north and south * Craven 
fault,' which rent off the eastern calcareous mountains from 
the older slates ; and soon afterwards, the great ' Pennine 
fault,' ranging from the foot of Stainmoor to the coast of 
Northumberland, and lifting up the terrace of Cross Fell above 
the plain of the Eden. Some of the north and south fissures 
(shewn by the directions of the valleys leading into Morecambe 
Bay) may have been formed about the same time ; — others must 
have taken place at later periods.* 

VIII. Afterwards ensued the more tranquil period of the 
new red sandstone : but here our records, on the skirts of the 
lake mountains, fail us, and we have to seek them in other 
countries. 

IX. Thousands of ages rolled away during the secondary 
and tertiary epochs. Of those times we have no monuments in 
Cumberland. But the powers of nature are never in repose ; 
her work never stands still. Many a fissure may in those days 
have started into an open chasm, and many a valley been scooped 
out upon the lines of * fault'. 

X. Close to the historic time, we have proofs of new 
disruption and violence, and of vast changes of level between 



* The magnesian conglomerates near Kirkby Stephen rest, almost 
horizontally, on the beds set on edge by the " Craven fault." But near 
Brough the same conglomerates are set on edge by the " Pennine 
fault." Hence we infer that the " Craven fault" was of an earlier date 
than the " Pennine," 



240 GEOLOGY OF THE 

land and sea. Ancient valleys may have been opened out anew, 
and fresh valleys formed by such great movements in the oceanic 
level. Whatever strain there may have been in the more solid 
parts of our island at this time, their greatest power must have 
been exerted upon ancient valleys, where the continuity of the 
beds was already broken. Cracks among the strata may, during 
this period, have passed into open fissures — vertical escarpments 
have been formed by unequal elevations on the sides of the lines 
of fault — and subsidences have given rise to many tarns and lakes. 
The face of nature may therefore have been greatly changed 
while the land was settling to its present level. 

But let me not be misunderstood ; this last period may have 
been of very long duration. I am only attempting to give an 
outline of a long series of physical facts, proved by physical 
evidence. I wish to pause before I reach the modern period ; 
and do not profess to link geology to the traditions of the human 
race. By some rash and premature attempts of this kind, much 
harm has been already done to the cause of truth and Christian 
charity. While geology is an advancing science, and the limits 
of her discoveries are so ill-defined, such attempts must almost 
inevitably involve some of the elements of error, and end in un- 
certain conclusions, ill fitted to form the base of historic truth. 

Any description of the mineral veins of Cumberland, would 
involve me in difficult details quite unfit for these letters ; and 
with their present condition, I am not acquainted — The anti- 
mony works in the Skiddaw slate, near the foot of Bassenthwaite 
Lake, are, as I am informed, now deserted. — Ores of lead and 
copper are still extracted from several parts of the middle division 
of the slates. The large works near Ullswater and Coniston 
Water Head well deserve a visit — The mines of plumbago, or 
black lead {carburet of iron), near the head of Borrowdale, are 
so peculiar to Cumberland that they must not be entirely passed 
over. The mineral is found in a large and very irregular vein, 
cutting through the green slate and porphyry — not in ribs pa- 
rallel to the sides of the vein, nor in the form of crystalline masses 
imbedded in spar ; but, here and there, in large irregular lumps 
or congeries of lumps ; which begin and swell out, and then thin 
off, without any apparent order. The miners have sometimes 
followed the vein for years without stumbling on any of the 



LAKE DISTRICT. 241 

larger rich masses :* and the works are now, I believe, very un- 
productive. Several irregular veins, with much red oxide of 
iron, are found in the neighbouring hills ; but none of them have 
produced the lumps of carburet of iron. — Plumbago is sometimes 
found in small flakes among the slags of our great iron furnaces ; 
and it has also been found among coal strata near the sides of 
1 trap dykes.' In such cases we can give an intelligible account 
of its formation : but I do not venture to account for its sub- 
limation among the rocks of Borrow dale. I may, however, 
observe that the Skiddaw slate, which supports the green slate 
and porphyry, sometimes I believe, contains a small quantity of 
carbon, f 

The iron mines of Low Furness and of Bigrigg Moor near 
Whitehaven, are also characteristic of the lake country. Red 
oxide of iron has been produced abundantly during many geolo- 
gical periods ; and the old red sandstone derives its colouring 
matter chiefly from that mineral. But the great deposits of 
* kidney ore,' near Dalton and Whitehaven, are of a newer date ; 
as they are found in the fissures and hollows of the carboniferous 
limestone. They in some places mark the presence of a great 
irregular c fault ;' in others they have been precipitated in open 
water-worn caverns. The best example of the kind is seen 
at Bigrigg Moor. — In all these places the ■ kidney ore ' was 
probably introduced during the period of the new red sandstone, 
while the waters of the sea, saturated with red oxide of iron, 
flowed through the fissures and caverns of limestone, and filled 
them gradually up with the metallic matter held in partial solution. 



In ending this imperfect outline of the structure of your native 
mountains, permit me to add one or two remarks, not, I trust, 
unconnected with the object of these letters. Geology links it- 

* One of the largest masses ever found in this mine, yielding about 
70,000 lbs. of the purer sorts of this mineral, besides more of an inferior 
quality, was discovered about forty years ago. 

f A sub-carburet of iron is found in very thin veins or ■ strings/ 
among the slate rocks of Cornwall, north of the Lizard district. But 
there the slates are perhaps not older than the lower part of the old 
red sandstone : and I may remark that carbonaceous matter and many 
impressions of plants occur in the Rhenish provinces, among still older 
rocks ; but among none of such antiquity as the Skiddaw state. 



242 gEoLogY of THE 

self with every material science. The earth is a great laboratory 
and storehouse of old experiments, wherein we may discipline 
our thoughts, and rise to the comprehension of the laws of na- 
ture : and it is by such means that we learn to bring the mate- 
rials around us under our control, and make them obedient to our 
will. Exact science is the creature of the human mind — a body 
of necessary truths built upon mere abstractions. But when 
physical phenomena are well defined, and their laws made out 
by long and patient observations, or proved by adequate experi- 
ments : they then, by an act of thought, may be made to pass 
into the form of mere abstractions, and so come within the reach 
of exact mathematical analysis : and many new physical truths, 
unapproachable in any other way, and far removed from direct 
observation, may thus be brought to light, and fixed as firmly as 
are the truths of pure geometry. 

Laws of atomic action — all that belongs to the highest gene- 
ralizations of chemical philosophy, may gain light and strength 
from the advances of geology. For what are crystalline rocks, 
and cleavage planes of slates, and all the perplexing phenomena 
of metallic veins, but the results of chemical action carried on 
upon a gigantic scale — of experiments made of old in nature's 
laboratory — which we can sometimes feebly imitate ? The laws 
of electro-chemical action are among the great discoveries of 
modern times. We can now separate metals from the fluid in 
which they are dissolved, in imitation of what nature has done 
among the cracks and veins of our ancient strata. It is not pos- 
sible to tell what great things may not hereafter be brought to 
pass by this happy union of observation and experiment. 

Again, we are assured from direct observation, that the same 
chemical and mechanical laws by which the materials of our 
globe are now bound together, have remained unchanged from 
the time when the solid foundations of the earth were laid. 
Changes of phenomena imply only a change of conditions, not a 
change in the primary laws of matter. We may therefore hope 
that, as geology advances farther towards exactness as a science 
of observation, its phenomena may be brought more nearly under 
the government of known mechanical laws, and more closely 
defined by the powers of exact calculation. For ages to come, 
geology may offer problems to call forth the utmost skill of 
mechanical philosophy. The density of the earth's mass is not 



LAKE DISTRICT. 243 

yet exactly known ; and no one perhaps has yet found where he 
is to fix the fulcrum of the lever which is to weigh the world. 
I believe that this problem will one day be more exactly solved 
(as it was a few years since attempted) by observations at the 
bottom of a mine ; where geology and astronomy, aided by the 
refinements of mechanical skill, must all combine in a common 
labour. This object if once gained would not be sterile ; but 
would be pregnant with many results of deep physical importance. 
But it would be idle for me to dwell on the prospects of geology, 
or on its bearings on the progress of the exacter sciences. Let 
me, however, add, that as all parts of nature, material and moral, 
are the offspring of one Creative Mind, and are wisely fitted to 
one another ; so we believe that the discovery of every new 
physical truth must tend to the support of every other truth, 
whatever be its kind, and to the good of the human race. 

The great formations of geology, however varied in their 
features, or imposing in their combination, derive their chief in- 
terest from being the monuments of successive periods of time. 
There is, therefore, a kind of historical animation in our labours 
which hardly belongs to any other physical pursuit. — Thesame re- 
mark applies to the organic remains buried among the successive 
strata of the earth. However instructive they may be shewing 
us certain forms of organic life, and whatever delight they may 
give the naturalist, by enabling him to fill up great chasms in 
the history of animated nature ; in the mind of the geologist 
they have a still higher value, when he regards them as the 
marks of Creative Power which called into existence successive 
races of beings adapted to successive conditions of the earth. 
In this view, they have been not unaptly called ' the medals of 
creation' — each series marking but one chapter in the physical 
records of past time. 

There is one view of geology, considered by some as a sign 
of its imperfection, but which, in truth, is a part of its glory. 
Many of its conclusions are as firmly fixed as the truths of 
demonstration ; but the boundaries of it3 conquests are still un- 
defined ; and there is still so much of wild untamed nature about 
it, that it is almost as well fitted to inflame the imagination, as 
to inform the reason. We profess to build only on observation 
and experiment : but there are many wide provinces in geology 
still unexplored ; many that are known imperfectly ; and in no 



244 GEOLOGY OF THE 

part of her realms are her subjects bound by such unyielding 
fetters as to have no room for the mind's creative powers. 
While we are moving on towards a resting-place we are longing 
for, among objects which to many may seem harsh-featured and 
repulsive, we may refresh our souls by sometimes soaring- into 
the airy regions of hypothesis, or in fostering dreams as wild as 
those of a poet's fancy. 

You, Sir, have told us of * the mighty voice of the mountains,' 
and have interpreted its language, and made it the delight of 
thousands : and in ages yet unborn, the same voice will cheer 
the kindly aspirations of the heart, and minister to the exaltation 
of our better nature — But there is another * mighty voice, 
muttered in the dark recesses of the earth : not like the dismal 
sounds of the Lebadean cave ; but the voice of wisdom, of in- 
spiration, and of gladness ; telling us of things unseen by vulgar 
eyes — of the mysteries of creation — of the records of God's will 
in countless ages before man's being — of a Spirit breathing over 
matter before a living soul was placed within it — of laws as un- 
changeable as the oracles of nature — of harmonies then in pre- 
paration ; but far nobler now that they are the ministers of 
thought and the instruments of intellectual joy ; and to have 
their full consummation only in the end of time, when all the 
bonds of matter shall be cast away, and there shall begin the 
reign of knowledge and universal love. 

Whatever be the value of geology as a science, its bearings 
upon the ordinary wants of life are too obvious to call for any 
comment. It leads us to the most glorious portions of the world, 
and carries us amongst men of kind hearts, and upright independ- 
ent thoughts. It is among the mountains, as you have told us, 
that we are to listen to * liberty's chosen music :' and the very 
objects with which we have there to struggle, give back to us, 
as the earth's touch did of old to the giant's body, new spirits 
and enduring strength. 

Some of the happiest summers of my life were passed among 
the Cumbrian mountains, and some of the brightest days of 
those summers were spent in your society and guidance. Since 
then, alas, twenty years have rolled away : but I trust that 
many years of intellectual health may still be granted you •. and 
that you may continue to throw your gleams of light through 
the mazes of human thought — to weave the brightest wreaths of 



LAKE DISTRICT. 245 

poetic fancy — and to teach your fellow-men the pleasant ways of 

truth and goodness, of nature and pure feeling. But here 

I must conclude my letters ; which though of more than twice 
the length I first intended, do not contain a hundredth part of 
what might be said on the structure of your country. Such as 
they are, I send them to you with great good -will ; and rejoice 
in the thought of having at length performed a promise, made 
to you many years since, but claimed by you only now. With 
the honest expressions of admiration and regard, and with hearty 
wishes for your happiness, I remain, &c, 

A. SEDGWICK, 
Cambridge, May 30, 1842. 



APPENDIX 



TO 

PROFESSOR SEDGWICK'S LETTERS. 



In the preceding Letters, the "new red sandstone" is separated into 
two divisions — an upper and a lower. This has made it necessary to 
alter the numbers in the wood-cut. Several additions have also been 
made to the notes ; but with these exceptions, and with a few mere 
verbal corrections, the Letters are reprinted from the first edition. 

During the past year, Mr. Daniel Sharpe laid before the Geological 
Society of London, a detailed survey of the Upper division of the slate 
rocks of Westmorland : but I have seen no abstract of his Paper, and 
know it only from the outline given of it in the President's last Anniver- 
sary Address. It was, therefore, out of my power to refer to it in 
the notes ; and indeed, all extended details are inconsistent with the 
plan and meaning of these Letters. 

I take this opportunity of correcting a mistake inadvertently made 
by myself in writing out an abstract of a paper read to the Geological 
Society of London, in 1841, (See the Proceedings of the Society, Vol. 
iii. p. 552.) Describing a section from the Coniston limestone to the 
rocks near Ulverston, I have stated that the deposits are in the follow- 
ing order : — 

1. Calcareous slates (Coniston limestone). 

2. Quartzose flagstone, pyritous shale, slate, &c. &c. 

3. Roofing slates of Kirkby Ireleth. 

4. Second band of calcareous slates, also with lower Silurian fossils. 

5. Upper series of flags and roofing slates extending to the neigh- 
bourhood of Ulverston, &c. &c. 

Nos. 3 and 4 ought to change places. The second band of calcareous 
slate strikes through a hill north of Dalton called High Haume — then 
is thrown, by a great fault, to the village marked Kirkby Ireleth in the 
county survey — and maybe traced through Meer Beck and Beck Side. 
As this range is on the west side of the hill containing the Ireleth 
slates, and the dip is S.E., it is obvious that the second limestone 
must be inferior to the slates. The same calcareous bands break out 
near Apple Tree in Blawith, and afterwards about a mile farther north 

Y 2 



248 



APPENDIX. 



near the bed of the brook ; and the strike points exactly to the small 
island in the lower part of Coniston lake. These facts are taken from 
a connty survey coloured by myself in 1822. The mistake above 
noticed was not made in the section exhibited to the society, and per- 
haps would have escaped me had it not been pointed out in the Anni- 
versary Address of the President (1843). 

I have been requested to give a fuller list of the fossils in the Upper 
division of the slate rocks of Westmorland ; and I comply with the re- 
quest with some reluctance ; because my list must still be very incom- 
plete, and can be of little use without illustrative figures. All my best 
fossils from the upper and lower groups are in the hands of Mr. J. D. C. 
Sowerby, who is employed in figuring the new and most characteristic 
species for a Synopsis, which I hope before long to publish, of the Older 
or fS Palaeozoic" rocks of England. 

FOSSILS OF THE " UPPER SILURIAN GROUPS " OF WESTMORLAND. 



Fish jaw, with striated teeth. 

CRUSTACEA. 

Asaphus Stokesii 
— — subcaudatus ? 
Calymene Blumenbachii 
? Downingiae. 

Annelida. 
Serpulites longissimus 
Spirorbis tenuisf 

MOLLUSCA. 

Bellerophon carinatusf 
. expansus 

globatus 

. (probably new) 

— trilobatusf 

Cyrtoceras laave 
Orthoceras articulatum 
filosum 



- greganum 

— — — _ — Ibex 

imbricatum 

Ludense 

Mocktreense 

i striatum 

« — undulatum (M.C.) 

— virgatum 

— — (like virgatum) 

- transversely 

striated 
Conularia quadrisulcata 



Pleurotoma articulata 
Turritella conica 

gregariaf 

— — — — - obsoleta 
Turbo corallii 

carinatus 

Trochus helicites 
Pleurotomaria Lloydii 
Natica parva 

(Sil. Syst. PL III. fig. 14) 

Patella? implicataf 

CONCHIFERA. 

Lingula cornea 

Lewisii? 

minima 

Terebratula lacunosa (Sil. Syst. PL 
V. fig. 19) 

Navicula 

Nucula 

pulchra 

Orthis lunata 

orbicularis 

Spirifer interlineatus 

ptychodes 

Atrypa affinis 
Leptsena depressa 

■ lata 

a broad flat one (new) 

Orbicula rugata 

■ striata 

(new) 

Avicula lineata 



f The species in the above list marked thus (f) have been kindly 
added by my friend Mr. Danby. 



APPENDIX. 249 

Avicula rectangularis Cypricardia undata 

retroflexa Solenocurtus? Fisheri(M.S.) 

Nucula? ovalis 

Cuculhea? antiqua Crinoidal Stems 

ovataf Dimerocrinites ?+ 

Cardiola interruptaf 



- fibrOSaf SEDIS INCERTiE. 



Pullastra complanata Tentaculites ornatus 

laevisf scalaris? 

Psammobia rigidaf tenuisf 

Cypricardia amygdalina Oval radiating coral like " Sponga- 

cymbseformis rium Edvardsii." 

impressa Cornulites serpularius 

retusa Ischadites? Konigii (perhaps new) 

? solenoides ? (undescribed) 



The preceding list was made out by my friend Mr. J. D. C. Sowerby, 
after a hasty examination of my own collection, of one sent by Messrs. 
Gough and Danby, and of one belonging to Mr. Murchison (made by 
John Ruthven, of Kendal). There are in these collections many new 
species, which will before long be figured, and to which specific names 
will then be given. 

Among them I may remark three or four Cypricardia ; one ? with 
angular ornaments like those in Mya literata. 

Another shell like Solenimya. 

Three new Aviculce; one about three inches broad is very abundant. 

New species of the following genera: — Cuculloea — Orbicula — Lep- 
tcena — Orthoceras (undescribed, but of the same species with one 
abounding in the Upper Silurian flagstone of Denbighshire). — Belle- 
rophon — Trilobites — Asterias. 

It is obvious from the above list, that the fossils in the Upper slates 
of Westmorland are in a great measure identical with the fossils in the 
" UpP er Silurian System" of Mr. Murchison, and bear out the conclu- 
sions given above, in the second Letter. 

FOSSILS OF THE "LOWER SILURIAN*' GROUP — CONISTON LIMESTONE, &C. 

The following list of fossils was given to me by Mr. J. D. C. Sowerby y 
as the result of his examination of a collection from the Coniston Lime- 
tone, which I placed in his hands in November, 1841. It might now be 
much enlarged. 

CRUSTACEA. CONCHIFERA. 

Paradoxides quadrimucronatus Leptsena sericea 

Asaphus Powisii tenuistriata 

Tyrannus (Orthis) grandis 

Isotelus Barriensis? (rudely furrowed) 

Calymene ? Atrypa afnnis 

and many separate post-abdominal Orthis canalis 
(portions of the same) alternata 

Y 3 



250 



APPENDIX. 



Orthis testudinaria 

Flabellulum (/3) 

— Actoniae 

— bilobata 

inflata (M.S.) 

(two or three new species) 

Terebratula bipartita 

neglecta 

--? unguis 



RADIATA. 

Turbinolopsis bina 
Porites pyriformis 
— — =- inordinata 

with other species of this 

and allied genera 

Ptilodictya ? 

Catenipora escharoides* 
Favosites polymorpha 

Tentaculites annulatus. 



* It is stated above (p. 223) that the Catenipora is abundant in 
the Coniston limestone. This may be a mistake ; but it is at least 
abundant in a collection made many years ago by myself on the spot. 
Favosites polymorpha is more common, but it ranges through so many 
formations, that it is of comparatively little use in any question of 
classification. 



Cambridge, June 1, 1843. 



A GLOSSARY 



ETYMOLOGICAL AND EXPLANATORY, OF THE NAMES OF HILLS, 
LAKES, RIVERS, ETC., OCCURRING IN THIS VOLUME. 



Mountainous districts, generally speaking, have been so many 
refuges for the primitive dialects. The reason of this, even if 
our space permitted, it is hardly necessary to explain, as it must 
be apparent to every reader of history and every reflective mind. 
Hence we find in the names of the striking natural objects of 
this district, so many descriptive epithets signifying the same 
thing, and all proceeding from the oral dialects of the early 
inhabitants. We recognise, as applied to the names of the Lake 
mountains, no fewer than twenty-four different words in the 
Celtic, Saxon, and Teutonic tongues, each signifying hill ; and 
there appear to be almost an equal number expressive of water : 
hence it is that in the composition of many of the names there 
are so many repetitions (retriplications in some instances) of the 
same meaning. Most of the names that still pertain to the hills, 
lakes, &c, come from the Saxon, Dano- Saxon, and Teutonic 
dialects, and it is natural to suppose that after the invasions by 
the Saxon and Danes these names have replaced, and been made 
to obliterate, the previous names in the Celtic or British tongue. 
Such words as Glaramara, and Blencathra (now Saddleback) 
look like remains of the pure British, but we have no good clue 
to their signification. 

Some of these names, as it will be seen, have their origin in 
the external appearances or configuration of the object : this 
class refers chiefly to hills. Others are derived from some 
essential quality or peculiarity of the place or thing designated : 
these have reference mostly to lakes and rivers. Again, others 
are so denominated from the fact of wild animals having abounded 



252 A GLOSSARY. 

there, as the wild boar, deer, goat, cat, &c. The names termi- 
nating with tkwaite, as Legberthwaite, Tilberthwaite, &c, have 
evidently received their appellations on the introduction of 
agriculture. 



Barrow (Sax. 'beorgh') a hill, sometimes a tumulus. 

Beck (Sax. and Dan. ' bek') a stream. 

Cam, Comb (Sax.) a hill — properly the crest of a hill, as the 
comb of a cock. 

Coom or Cove (British ' cwm') a valley, opening between 
hills. 

Dal (Danish) dale, a valley. 

Don, Den. These words are indifferently applied to hill and 
dale, and are descriptive of either. 

Dod, a diminutive, applied to a smaller hill to distinguish it 
from a greater, for example — Skiddaw Dod. 

Dore (British * dwr') water ; a word that enters largely into 
the composition of names in the Lake district. Dore is applied 
also to an opening between rocks. 

Ghyll (Isl.), a fissure in a mountain, or between two moun- 
tains. 

Grange. The Farm, attached to a Monastery or Baronial 
establishment. 

Hawse (Sax. * hals') a throat, or gullet. 

Hirst and Hurst (Sax,) a wood, or grove. 

Holm. A piece of land surrounded by water, or washed by 
one or more streams. Either an Island or a Peninsula. 

How (Teut.) a hill. 

HuL(Sax.)ahill. 

Knot (Sax.) applied to hills with a marked prominence or 
protuberance in the same sense as to a ' knot' on a tree. 

Man. A factitious eminence set on a hill — in the same sense 
as a moveable piece for ' Chess' or ( Draughts.' Maen (q. Brit.) 
is an old word for stone, however, and the ' man' of the moun- 
tains is always of stone. 

Nab (Sax. * cnep') the * neb,' or nose of a hill. The bill of a 
bird is called its • neb.' 

Ness or Neese (Teut.), a promontory, as Bowness, Fur- 
ness, &c. 



A GLOSSARY. 253 

Pen (Brit.) hill — whence, also, ' Ben.' 
Pike. ■ Pec' (Sax.) Peak. 

Scar or Scaur (Suio-Goth.) a hill, generally applied to 
escarpments. 

Slack (Su.-Goth ' slak') a dell, or depression of ground. 
Thwaite — a piece of land cleared from wood. 



Ambleside (p. 40). As this name was formerly spelt Hamel- 
side, and is still pronounced by the vulgar Hamelsed or Amel- 
sed, we conceived it may be derived from Ea or JEau (water), 
mel (a brow). Water from the side of the brows. 

Applethwaite (p. 44). Ea-pul~thwaite. The two first 
syllables are the reduplication of water. 

Bassenthwaite Water (p. 87). The water of Bassen. 
— Saxon plural of bass a perch. Or perhaps from bas, low, or 
lower. 

Blea Wyke, or Blowick (p. 93). An inlet or bay where 
the Blea-berry or Whortle-berry abounds. The word ' blea' 
describes the peculiar dark, blue colour of the berry, and as the 
Lake waters often assume the same tint it is uncertain .whether 
in this case the appellative should be referred to the water or to 
the berry. 

Borrowdale (p. 53). Boar-dale, or elsewise Borough-dale. 
A literal variation of Barrow-dale. 

Bowfell (p. 75). A bowed, or arched hill. Very applicable. 

Bowness (p. 36). A round-pointed promontory. In some 
places this name is written Bullness, which has the same mean- 
ing and derivation. 

Brathay (p. 40), Water from the brae ! 

Brotherilkeld (p. 56). Broad-dwr-ail-keld — abroad water 
(water) from the keld, a spring. 

Buttermere (p. 79). Bo de-tor -mere (Sax.) or Booth-tor- 
mere — the lake of a village by the hill. 

Carl Lofts (p. 111). (British ' eaer ;' Sax. 'loft') — a high 
dwelling. 

The Carrs. The Dwellings in one sense. The Scars in 
another. ' Scars* appears most appropriate. 

Catchedecam (p. 105); Probably the high-crested, or high- 
topped hill where wild cats abounded. The old spelling was 



254 A GLOSSARY. 

Cats-de cam. The two main syllables seem to be the same that 
enter into the composition of 'Kamschatka.' The first syllable 
may be Coed, woody ; and the last is undoubtedly cam, 
crest. 

Cat Bells (p. 66). Bael (A. Sax.) is a signal fire, or 
beacon ; but there is no record of this mountain having" ever 
been one of the beacon hills. The name may come from the 
appearance or form of bells. 

Causey Pike (p. 78). Causeway Pike. Synonymous with 
Stickle-pike — a passable hill. 

Clappersgate (p. 46). Perhaps formerly Capper sgate, or 
Chapple-gate : the road to chapel or altar. This gate leads 
towards Kirk Fell, over the Stake, and a Druid's Circle, called 
Sunken Church, or Stoneside. 

Cockley Beck (p. 59). A winding or rugged stream. 

Coniston (p. 13). A town (ton) at the head (con) of the 
Lake (is) Brit. Some take it to be a corruption of Konygston, 
or King's-town. 

Crinkle Crags (p. 42). (Dutch) Sinuous or rough-faced rocks. 

Crummock Water (p. 80). Probably a corruption or varia- 
tion of cwm-rock ; a water issuing from the opening in the rock 
or rocks. 

Derwent (p. 60). Dwr-gwynt (Brit.) the windy Lake 
This lake is remarkable for gusts of wind. Or Dwr-gwyn, (clear) 
water. 

Donnerdale, (p. 15). Dun-aer, water from the hill. Some 
think the first syllable a contraction of ■ Duddon.' 

Duddon, (p. 13. Dod-den, the lower, lesser, or inferior 
valley. 

Easedale (p. 51). JEas, or Is-dale, water dale. 

Elterwater (p. 45). Ael (Brit.) great and Tor (Sax.) hill. 
Water from the great hill. 

Eskdale (p. 55). Esk, and Ask, mean Newt, or Lizard. 
Both words also signify water : and the latter is the more pro- 
bable derivative. 

Fairfield (p. 46). Fadr-feld (Danish). Sheep pasture. 

Fleetwith (p. 79). Mountain. Swift water or fleet water 
mountain. 

Floutern Tarn (p. 83). A Tarn in a windy place. Flowy 
is an old word in this dialect meaning windy. 



A GLOSSARY. 255 

Gatesgarth or ' Gatescarth ' (p. 80). A gate or road 
over the Scar — which is the case in this instance. Or * gate' 
may in this place be a variation of * Goat,' from the Wild Goats. 
' Goat-cct is the name of a hill near Gatescarth. 

Glencoyn (p. 91). Cyna, in the (Sax.) is « a cleft' or 'fissure,' 
so Glencoyn is a reduplication of the same word. Burn says 
from * cuna,' (Fr.) (quain) — a corner. If the latter derivation 
is preferred the name has been adopted since the Norman Con- 
quest ; antiquaries will prefer the former. 

Glenderaterra (p. 77). A glen conducting (dwr) water 
from turret the hill or eminence. 

Glenridding (p. 92). Glen-renner (Moes-Goth.) a flowing, 
roaring Gill. Or Glen Rynde (Sax.) fluvius. The Rhine is 
thus derived ; and our word Rain comes from the same root. 
Another explanation may also be given of Ridding, It is a 
word much used in the north of England, and might appro- 
priately be put as a cognomen to places from which wood had 
been rooted out, or ridded. 

Go wb arrow (p. 84). Probably a corruption of Gold-barrow *, 
from the veins of copper in the hill 'there or thereabouts.' 
Pyrites of Copper look very like gold to one who is not a 
mineralogist. (In the same manner Silver dale is said to be 
derived from silex.) 

Grassmoor and Grasmere (pp. 51, 78J. Formerly spelled 
Gersmere, From Gres (Sax.) 'grass.' The lake of grassy 
banks. Or, Grismere — the Lake of the wild boar. 

Greenup (p. 53). A verdant upper or higher plot of ground. 
Up is a common adjunct in contradistinction to lor or lower. 
Instance ' Upton,' ' Lorton,' &c, &c. Greenhead is a frequent 
name in these parts. Instance the dwelling of Wordsworth's 
Michael, Vol I. p. 222. 

Greta (p. 75). River. Dr. Whittaker supposes this River to 
take its name from the ' greeting,' or weeping tones of the water 
down its channel. It may be so, or the appellation may be 
derived from the rock — grit, over which a the water flows. 

Grisdale Pike (p. 78). From 'Gris,' wild swine. 

Hammar Scar (p. 51). Hamur> (Sax.) Perhaps an allusion 
to the hard nature of the Scar or Rock. Such ideal transposi- 
tions are not unfrequent. 

Hard Knot (p. 54). [See Hammar Scar.] 



256 A GLOSSARY. 

Harrison Stickle (p. 42). Stigle (Sax.) away over the hill. 
Harrison is evidently a personal name put to distinguish one of 
'the Pikes' from the other. Hence our word 'stile,' and 
'steel.' 'Steel Pike' was the ancient name of this hill, as Mr. 
West has it ; and we would like to see this name restored. 

Hartsop (p. 92). Harts-up (so pronounced). The hill of 
the Red Deer. 

" Where stalked the huge Deer to his shaggy lair." — Wordsworth. 

Helvellyn (p. 62). Hel (hill) ; gwal (well) ; lyn (lake) — a 
hill that forms a wall or defence for the Lake. Some derive 
Hel-fe/-lyn from ' Bel' or Belinus the God to whom sacrificial 
fires were lighed upon hills. But the objection to this is that 
the name is never called ' Helbellyn,' 

Hindscarth (p. 79). The Shepherd's hill. 

Honister Crag (p. 80). In Jamieson ' hon' is put as the 
synonyme of how, a hollow. — Is (water) — tor (hill). The 
name with these definitions, ill applies to the spot. 

Keswick (p. 50). We can make nothing of the pre-fix of 
this name unless it may be deemed an abbreviation of Caester 
(Sax.) a fortification.* We incline to this hypothesis, and 
think it the same word as ' Kearstwick.' The Saxon wick (a vil- 
lage) is frequently found superadded to the Roman name Burgh, 
making Borwick and the like. 

Kirkstone (p. 47.) Sone conceive the rock at the top of 
' Kirkstone,' to resemble the structure of a 'Kirk,' and thence 
deduce the appellation.! But there w r as both a Cairn and a 
Druid's Altar near the summit of this hill, and we would rather 
refer the name to that altar. 

LAMrLUGH (p. 84). This name has reference only to the 
soil of the place. Lam (Sax.) is loam, or clay. The last 
syllable explains itself. Mr. Nicholson (History of Cumber- 
land) says ' Glan-flough' (Irish) dale-wet. 

Langdale (p. 41), or Langden. Long valley. 

Langstreth (p. 54). Long street or way, from 'stret.' Sax. 

Legberthwaite (p. 52). Leigh (Sax.) a meadow, whence ley, 
bera (Sax.) barley; thwaite, inclosure. An enclosed barley field. 

* See Mr. West's Guide, p. 149. 

f This block — and yon whose church-like frame, 
Gives to this savage pass its name. — Wordsworth. 



A GLOSSARY. 157 

Lingmell (p. 54). A brow (mael, Sax.) remarkable for 

* ling,' or heather. 

Lodore (p. 63), and Lowther (p. 109), are evidently the 
same : Lo-dwr. In a very old book Lowther is interpreted 
black-water. 

Lowes Water (p. 82). Hlow, (Sax.) hill. Water from the 
hills. 

Lyulph's Tower (p. 49). The Wolfs Tower, or Wolf's 
refuge. Some suppose from Lyulph, the first Baron of Grey- 
stoke. 

Matterdale (p. 89). Mater, or mother dale, if Pater-dale 
be adopted. The two dales are adjacent. See a Note in 
Nicholsons History of Cumberland p. 367, where it is described 
as Materdale. 

Mickleden (p. 41). Den is variously applied to a hill (dun) 
and a valley (dean). This appears to be mickle, greater or 
higher valley. 

Mickledore (p. 74). Greater door or opening. This word 

* dore' is sometimes applied to the mouth of a pass, 

Nanbield (p. 33). Nant (Welch) a fall; and bield a shel- 
tered place. The spot to which this name applies is a pass 
crossing from Kentmere to Mardale. 

Old Man (p. 17). [See explanation to * Man.'] 

Patterdale (p. 48). Probably Pater or father dale. Some 
say Patrick-dale, from the Patron Saint of Ireland. 

Pavey Ark (p, 42). Pavis, a shield. The ' Ark of Defence,' 
or natural fortress. Jamieson, in illustration of * Pavis,' says 
' a testudo used in sieges.' 

Penrith (p. 107). Fen-rhydd (Celtic) red hill. In Wales 
rhydd is still pronounced rith. 

Pike of Stickle (p. 42). Pike a peak (Sax). Stic/le. See 
Harrison Stickle. 

Portinscale (p. 6Q). Port (a landing-place) ; ing (a men-. 
dow) ; scale (a basin). The place answers this description. 

Pull Wyke (p. 43.) A bay in the jpoo/or lake. 

Rothay (p. 45), Water from the (raw) hill. 

Rydale (p. 50). Supposing this to be a corruption or con- 
traction of Rotha-dale, Raw-divr-dale, the meaning is lull- 
water-dale ! Rhiu (if such can be pronounced ■ ry')will be hilly- 
dale. 



158 A GLOSSARY. 

Saddleback (p. 77). Explanatory of the configuration or 
outline of the hill* 

Sandwyke (p. 93). A sandy inlet or bay. 

Scandale Fell, and Beck (p. 43) Scant-dale. A hanging 
or oblique valley. 

Scawfell (p. 59). (Sax. ' scaew,' conspicuous) a conscipuous 
hill — or one that peers above its fellows, as Sea Fell does. Or 
it may be Scar-fell. 

Scarf-gap (p. 58). (Scmf Sax. * smooth') a smooth open- 
ing or valley, (qy ?) 

Seathwaite, (p. 14, 6&). Seath (Sax.) a well or pond, 
thivaite, an inclosure. 

Seatoller (p. 69). Water in a ' hollow.' [Vide ' Sea- 
thwaite.]- 

Seat Sandal (p. 77). Perhaps a corruption of Saint, or 
Saind-er, old French, also for saint ; therefore a pleonasm. 

Shap (p. 111). Shep or plural Shepen, (old spelling of Ship- 
pon), sheep-cotes. Or (more probably) it may be from the Saxon 
word Ccep, a market (whence * chap-man'). The village would 
be the market for the Monastery (Shap Abbey), &c. 

Skelwith (p. 40). Scale-wath ; a ford in the hollow. 

Skiddaw (p. 75). Scced (Sax.) sheath, or screen ; how (hill). 
The hill that screens or protects. Similar in meaning to * Pavey 
Ark.' 

Stake (p. 53). Stager (Sax.) a stair, or road over the hill. 

Striding Edge (p. 105), sometimes spelled Strachan Edge. 
Strachan (Sax), when applied to steps or walking, will be 
synonymous with 'striding.' Strid, a step across. — Instance 
' Strid' near Bolton Abbey. 

St. Sunday's Crag (p. 105). Holy Sunday's Crag — a place 
where some religious rite has been observed. 

Stybarrow (p. 92). From 'stye,' the wild boar; or from 
' stigi' (Isl.) a ' Vay* over the hill. Wild-boar-fell is an undoubt- 
ed instance of the former. 

Sty Head, (p. 54). [See Sty-barrow.] Stigi, way— -the 
head of the way. 

Swineside (p. 78). Wild boar. 

Swirrel Edge (p. 105). Probably from the form : swirl. 

Thirlmere (p. 53). [See Threlkeld.] 

Threlkeld (p. 67). Keld is a spring of water or well ; and 



w s 



A GLOSSARY. 159 

threl we take to be a variation oUhirl. In this place * thirl' means 
dug or excavated, a sunken well. Thirlmere signifies a natural 
passage cut by the water. 

Tilberthwaite (p. 13). Till (Eng.); bera (Sax), barley; 
thwaite, enclosure. Synonimous with Legberthwaite. 

Toes (p. 56). Resembling that part of the figure. The 
place is, as it were, the * toes' of Hard-knot. 

Wallab arrow Crag (p. 15). Gwal-beorg, a natural ram- 
part. 

Wansfell (p. 45). Wang (Sax.) a plain field or land. 
Wang's -fell an exposed hill. 

Watendlath (p. 66). Wadan (Sax.) a ford. Lat/ie, or 
lethe a district of a country — a ' hundred.' 

Whinlatter (p. 81). Gwynt-hlaw-tor. Windy-brow-hill. 

Windermere (p. 37). Gwyn-dwr-mere ; Bright water lake. 

Wrynose (p. 54). The nose of the (rhiu) hill. 

Ullswater (p. 49). Water from the hillsi (See * how,' 
' hull ' &c). Burn derives this name from Ulf, L'ulf, Lyidph> 
a personal name. We prefer Ull-hid (Sax.) a MIL 



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